Dd

Deb

13/04/2006 6:54 PM

Resin help please

I made a loft bed for my daughter some time age and all was fine till
now. The reason for this change is that I made the bed a little too
high, about 8", and she now keeps hitting her head when she get up.

I have cut the bed down to a more usable size, but the ladder is now
leaking resin. The wood is a soft pine, known here as CLS timber, very
cheep, but quite good for this type of use. Looks like I've cut through
a knot, and I need some help please.

What's the best way of stopping this leakage, keeping in mind that the
bed is all waxed?

I was thinking of using shellac to seal the wood, but will this seal be
good enough to stop the resin form getting through?

I know I perhaps should have used a little more dense wood, and probably
got some of a more seasoned quality, but not knowing where to get that
from, and being my first real build I now pay the cost :-( But with your
help I'm sure all will be fine in the end ;-)

Any ideas on how to overcome this will be most greatfully received.

Thanks in advance Deb


This topic has 8 replies

pd

"professorpaul"

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

13/04/2006 12:52 PM

Don't know if this will help, but there is a specific product --
laquer-like stuff -- just for this purpose. Generally, you put it on
before you paint the final result. I think you have a problem here that
is simply due to the kind of wood you have. I had an unfinished cabinet
(sold it along with the house), that was painted white. I failed to
seal a knot. After about a year, it started to bleed through the paint.
PITA...

rh

"robo hippy"

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

16/04/2006 2:05 PM

My daughter calls her loft bed, the 'bonk' bed.
robo hippy

Dd

Deb

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

16/04/2006 11:03 PM

BobS wrote:

> Now here is a crazy idea. If it's the bottom of the ladder legs how
about getting some of that acrylic rubber dip they sell at the borgs for
dipping tools in? This would seal the bottom and make it slip proof at
the same time. Just make sure the dip comes up the sides of the legs to
form a cup.
>
> Hey... I said it was crazy...
>
> Bob S.
>
>
>

From what I remember this plastic is put onto metal by heating the
metal to about 120 C and then dipping the heated part you want coated
into a fine plastic powder kept at a 'boil' by using an air source.

This would be far tooo much trouble for this problem, but NICE idea.

Thanks for the help

Deb

GG

"George"

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

13/04/2006 5:46 PM


"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This is a typical job for shellac. Cheap, easy to use, fast drying, quick
> clean-up.
>

Traditional, too. Common solvent between varnishes and resin - turpentine.
Alcohol, on the other hand is a polar solvent, so resin won't eat it. And
vice-versa.

Bn

"BobS"

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

13/04/2006 11:24 PM

Now here is a crazy idea. If it's the bottom of the ladder legs how about
getting some of that acrylic rubber dip they sell at the borgs for dipping
tools in? This would seal the bottom and make it slip proof at the same
time. Just make sure the dip comes up the sides of the legs to form a cup.

Hey... I said it was crazy...

Bob S.


Cs

"CW"

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

22/04/2006 4:08 PM

No. Open can, dip part. No heat involved.

"Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> BobS wrote:
>
> From what I remember this plastic is put onto metal by heating the
> metal to about 120 C and then dipping the heated part you want coated
> into a fine plastic powder kept at a 'boil' by using an air source.
>
> This would be far tooo much trouble for this problem, but NICE idea.
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Deb

Pg

Patriarch

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

13/04/2006 3:53 PM

Deb <[email protected]> wrote in news:o7x%f.50283$Nh7.27853@newsfe4-
win.ntli.net:

> I made a loft bed for my daughter some time age and all was fine till
> now. The reason for this change is that I made the bed a little too
> high, about 8", and she now keeps hitting her head when she get up.
>
> I have cut the bed down to a more usable size, but the ladder is now
> leaking resin. The wood is a soft pine, known here as CLS timber, very
> cheep, but quite good for this type of use. Looks like I've cut through
> a knot, and I need some help please.
>
> What's the best way of stopping this leakage, keeping in mind that the
> bed is all waxed?
>
> I was thinking of using shellac to seal the wood, but will this seal be
> good enough to stop the resin form getting through?
>


This is a typical job for shellac. Cheap, easy to use, fast drying, quick
clean-up.

Clean off the wax with mineral spirits or similar, then have at it.

Patriarch

Dd

Deb

in reply to Deb on 13/04/2006 6:54 PM

15/04/2006 10:29 PM

Patriarch wrote:

> Deb <[email protected]> wrote in news:o7x%f.50283$Nh7.27853@newsfe4-
> win.ntli.net:
>
>
>> I made a loft bed for my daughter some time age and all was fine
till now. The reason for this change is that I made the bed a little too
high, about 8", and she now keeps hitting her head when she get up.
>>
>> I have cut the bed down to a more usable size, but the ladder is now
leaking resin. The wood is a soft pine, known here as CLS timber, very
cheep, but quite good for this type of use. Looks like I've cut through
a knot, and I need some help please.
>>
>> What's the best way of stopping this leakage, keeping in mind that
the bed is all waxed?
>>
>> I was thinking of using shellac to seal the wood, but will this seal
be good enough to stop the resin form getting through?
>>
>
>
>
> This is a typical job for shellac. Cheap, easy to use, fast drying,
quick clean-up.
>

Thanks needed a little help to ensure I was using the correct stuff.

> Clean off the wax with mineral spirits or similar, then have at it.
>
> Patriarch


Thanks for this suggestion, was going to ask what to clean it with.

Again many thanks will let you know how it turns out :-)

Deb


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