I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back from the
lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the design from a
catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By the way the table
sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)
For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down to some
dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4 boards to get the
required width. I have never done this before. Here is how I plan on doing
it:
Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and clamp
the piss out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.
Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:kOD%[email protected]...
>> If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry
>> at my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming
>> for on the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood
>> I'm guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would
>> only be about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure
>> in scrap and the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly
>> the size you need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to
>> not have to deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry
>> coffee table.
>>
>> todd
>>
>
>
> The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
> rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.
Yes, we are all ultimately at the mercy of local availability. Now I
realize this might not exactly go along with the concept of building
everything yourself, but http://www.osbornewood.com/1082.cfm is an option.
todd
"stoutman"
>I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back from
>the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the design from
>a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By the way the table
>sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)
>
> For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down to
> some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4 boards to
> get the required width. I have never done this before. Here is how I
> plan on doing it:
>
> Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and clamp
> the piss out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.
>
> Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
> lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
> small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
> --
Small voids are usually the result of too few clamps and too much pressure.
(With the assumption the wood surfaces are flat.) Cauls will help.
Layout the taper before you glue. Position the layout to get the best grain
pattern and avoid getting too close to the glue line. Or taper the legs
then apply a 1/8" veneer over the sides with the glue line - this will leave
a small glue line close to the edge.
Dave
When you're there, can you check if they have any veneer? They don't
list it on their website, but I thought I saw some last time I was
there. I'm looking for birds-eye or tiger maple. I can order it from
lots of places online, but I'd prefer to examine each piece closely
before buying.
Has the new little guy arrived yet?
Josh
Yeah, but does he like the dresser? He probably doesn't appreciate the
birds-eye maple drawer backs.
stoutman wrote:
> "Josh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > When you're there, can you check if they have any veneer? They don't
> > list it on their website, but I thought I saw some last time I was
> > there. I'm looking for birds-eye or tiger maple. I can order it from
> > lots of places online, but I'd prefer to examine each piece closely
> > before buying.
> >
> >
> > Josh
> >
>
> Sorry. I didnt see your post until I got back!
>
> > Has the new little guy arrived yet?
>
> Yes. 9lbs 1 oz. All he does is eat, sleep, poop, pee and cry and c r y
> and C R Y!!! :)
>
>
> --
> Stoutman
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com
> (Featuring a NEW look)
Toller wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:kWy%f.9589$wH1.3222@trnddc03...
>> stoutman wrote:
>>> I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back
>>> from the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the
>>> design from a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By
>>> the way the table sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)
>>>
>>> For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down
>>> to some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4
>>> boards to get the required width. I have never done this before.
>>> Here is how I plan on doing it:
>>>
>>> Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and
>>> clamp the piss out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side
>>> etc.
>>>
>>> Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
>>> lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about
>>> seeing small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
>>
>> Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
>> smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
>> showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the
>> face sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where
>> you cut through one board to another. To avoid that you can
>> either...
>>
>> 1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since
>> faces won't be parallel).
>>
>> 2. taper *more* than you want after gluing then glue a thin piece to
>> the ugly reveal side.
>>
> Or, you could put the taper/cut side on the back and use the solid
> side.
It will show regardless of which sides are tapered.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Thanks to all that responded. You guys convinced me that I shouldn't settle
for the lamination route!
I am in High Point NC. Wall Lumber is where I usually go and they don't
carry 12/4 cherry. The biggest is 8/4. I am not sure why they wouldn't
carry a12/4 of a very popular furniture making lumber. I can understand not
having zebra wood in 12/4, but CHERRY???
I just found out that the Hardwood Store East of me
carries 12/4 cherry at $9.05 bd/ft. I am going to cruise over there
tomorrow morning!
Thanks again...
--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kWy%f.9589$wH1.3222@trnddc03...
> stoutman wrote:
>> I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back
>> from the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the
>> design from a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By
>> the way the table sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)
>>
>> For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down
>> to some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4
>> boards to get the required width. I have never done this before.
>> Here is how I plan on doing it:
>>
>> Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and
>> clamp the piss out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side
>> etc.
>>
>> Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
>> lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about
>> seeing small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
>
> Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
> smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
> showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the face
> sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where you cut
> through one board to another. To avoid that you can either...
>
> 1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since faces
> won't be parallel).
>
> 2. taper *more* than you want after gluing then glue a thin piece to the
> ugly reveal side.
>
Or, you could put the taper/cut side on the back and use the solid side.
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:kOD%[email protected]...
>
>
> The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
> rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.
>
Where you at? I think I have an 8' 12 or 14/4 chunk in storage. If your
somewhere on the way between Edmonton to Toronto I could drop it of for you.
Let me know and I can look for it this weekend.
Jim
> Yeah, but does he like the dresser? He probably doesn't appreciate the
> birds-eye maple drawer backs.
>
>
Yeah, probably not. When I start passing on to him all of the wisdom I have
gained through the years building fine furniture, birds-eye maple drawer
backs is going to be in there! :)
Smarty pants!
"Josh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When you're there, can you check if they have any veneer? They don't
> list it on their website, but I thought I saw some last time I was
> there. I'm looking for birds-eye or tiger maple. I can order it from
> lots of places online, but I'd prefer to examine each piece closely
> before buying.
>
>
> Josh
>
Sorry. I didnt see your post until I got back!
> Has the new little guy arrived yet?
Yes. 9lbs 1 oz. All he does is eat, sleep, poop, pee and cry and c r y
and C R Y!!! :)
--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
> Is it easier than I think?
Yes.
This is something you get used to doing when you work with quarter sawn
white oak as you gernally can't find it any thicker than 8/4.
In addition, and although it is mostly done with quartersawn wood to show
the QS face on all four sides, you might want to consider doing
"quadralinear legs" for appearance sake.
DAGS ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:kOD%[email protected]...
>> If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry
>> at my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming
>> for on the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood
>> I'm guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would
>> only be about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure
>> in scrap and the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly
>> the size you need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to
>> not have to deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry
>> coffee table.
>>
>> todd
>>
>
>
> The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
> rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.
>
Hopefully this piece is going to be around long after we are gone. Take the
time to do it right and purchase the correct wood. I order lots of wood
that I can't get locally. Two of the best for cherry are
http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/
http://www.grofflumber.com/
> As you always should, totally coat the surface with glue and put as many
> clamps on the set up as you can. It is easier to glue all the pieces at
> one time however the pieces tend to slip a bit. You can shoot a short
> brad in to each inner piece to keep them from creeping when applying the
> pressure. BE SURE to keep the brads near the center so that you do not cut
> into them when you cut the taper and square the corners.
Thanks for the info! I think I have seen David Marks use that brad trick.
It didnt occur to me to use it here.
> If your boards are flat you should not have any void problems.
>
> BTY did the new Rikon motor fix the problem you were having?
I havent swapped them out yet. The problem has not repeated itself for a
few days. I might just hang onto the extra motor until the problem
resurfaces.
>
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:Bwx%[email protected]...
Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.
>
> Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
> lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
> small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
As you always should, totally coat the surface with glue and put as many
clamps on the set up as you can. It is easier to glue all the pieces at one
time however the pieces tend to slip a bit. You can shoot a short brad in
to each inner piece to keep them from creeping when applying the pressure.
BE SURE to keep the brads near the center so that you do not cut into them
when you cut the taper and square the corners.
If your boards are flat you should not have any void problems.
BTY did the new Rikon motor fix the problem you were having?
In article <[email protected]>,
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I did just this on a cherry coffee table.
So did I. It's well worth the few extra dollars to get the 12/4.
Laminated legs look like...mmm..laminated legs.
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:Bwx%[email protected]...
>I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back from
>the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the design from
>a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By the way the table
>sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)
>
> For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down to
> some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4 boards to
> get the required width. I have never done this before. Here is how I
> plan on doing it:
>
> Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and clamp
> the piss out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.
>
> Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
> lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
> small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
>
> --
> Stoutman
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com
> (Featuring a NEW look)
If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry at
my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming for on
the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood I'm
guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would only be
about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure in scrap and
the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly the size you
need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to not have to
deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry coffee table.
todd
> If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry at
> my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming for
> on the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood I'm
> guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would only
> be about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure in
> scrap and the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly the
> size you need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to not
> have to deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry
> coffee table.
>
> todd
>
The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.
stoutman wrote:
> I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back
> from the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the
> design from a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By
> the way the table sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)
>
> For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down
> to some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4
> boards to get the required width. I have never done this before.
> Here is how I plan on doing it:
>
> Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and
> clamp the piss out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side
> etc.
>
> Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
> lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about
> seeing small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the face
sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where you cut
through one board to another. To avoid that you can either...
1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since faces
won't be parallel).
2. taper *more* than you want after gluing then glue a thin piece to the
ugly reveal side.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:56:48 GMT, dadiOH wrote:
> Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
> smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
> showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the face
> sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where you cut
> through one board to another. To avoid that you can either...
>
> 1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since faces
> won't be parallel).
Tape the cut-offs back on the outside to provide parallel surfaces for clamps.
Line them with clear packing tape to keep the glue squeeze-out from sticking
to them.
--
Art
> Where you at? I think I have an 8' 12 or 14/4 chunk in storage. If your
> somewhere on the way between Edmonton to Toronto I could drop it of for
> you. Let me know and I can look for it this weekend.
> Jim
>
Thanks Jim for the offer!!!
I am in High Point NC. Wall Lumber is where I usually go and they don't
carry 12/4 cherry. I just found out that the Hardwood Store East of me
carries 12/4 cherry at $9.05 bd/ft.
I am going to cruise over there tomorrow morning!