I was in the shop a couple of days ago, when one of the fluorescent fixtures
stopped working. It wasn't in my line of sight at the time, but I think
there was a pop and flash, followed by darkness. It's a newish fixture with
an electronic ballast. I suspect that the ballast went kablooie, but I
don't know how to test it, if it's even possible for me to test the output.
I'd appreciate any pointers.
todd
On Mon, 9 May 2005 22:43:30 -0500, "Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> =
wrote:
>I was in the shop a couple of days ago, when one of the fluorescent =
fixtures
>stopped working. It wasn't in my line of sight at the time, but I think
>there was a pop and flash, followed by darkness. It's a newish fixture =
with
>an electronic ballast. I suspect that the ballast went kablooie, but I
>don't know how to test it, if it's even possible for me to test the =
output.
>I'd appreciate any pointers.
>
>todd
>
Not knowing any more specifics about your fixture, IMHO your best bet =
both from a cost and
longevity standpoint would be to replace the ballast with a universal =
replacement ballast
that covers the type of bulbs your fixture requires. It will run 12-17$ =
at HD depending
on whether or not you get a magnetic or electronic unit. The magnetic =
unit will use a
slight amount more power, but for a single shop light that is negligible.=
The reason a
universal replacement is my recommendation is because the universal must =
span a range of
different types of tubes and fixtures so it is likely you will get a =
ballast slightly over
built for your application. A class P rating is also desirable to help =
insure it doesn't
make too much noise and will start right up without flicker when cold. =
Good luck, Joe.
I buy the cheap strip lights that take the regular old tubes...always
available and very long lived. I have lost a ballast and replaced the whole
fixture, for about $15. I make the bottom face frame rail of the wall
cabinets wide enough to hide the fixtures...about 3.5" and the top rail
anything over about 2", same as the sides. I have two 4' and one 18".You
can see them glowing on ABPW, Kitchen for Chuck.
Wilson
"Wes Stewart" <n7ws_@*yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 10 May 2005 17:46:28 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> The tubes are fine. I pulled the thing apart and got to thinking that
>>> unless the pull switch is busted, there really isn't much else that can
>>> go
>>> wrong other than the ballast.
>>>
>>> todd
>>
>>If it is an heavy duty commercial fixture, buy a new ballast. If it is a
>>typical homeowner special from the big box store, buy another for half the
>>price of a ballast.
>>
>>I have an undercounter kitchen fixture. I can buy a new fixture for 50¢
>>more
>>than just the replacement bulb.
>
>
> It used to be that you could by an HP Inkjet printer for about the
> same cost as a set of replacement ink cartridges. They musta got wise
> to that and only fill the supplied ones with a token amount of ink.
>
> They should just give away the printers so they have a bigger market
> for supplies.
"Lee DeRaud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 9 May 2005 22:43:30 -0500, "Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I was in the shop a couple of days ago, when one of the fluorescent
fixtures
> >stopped working. It wasn't in my line of sight at the time, but I think
> >there was a pop and flash, followed by darkness. It's a newish fixture
with
> >an electronic ballast. I suspect that the ballast went kablooie, but I
> >don't know how to test it, if it's even possible for me to test the
output.
> >I'd appreciate any pointers.
>
> Swap the tubes with another fixture: if they work there, well, it's
> not like there are dozens of *other* parts that could have failed.
>
> (Peel off the 'Lucas' label while you're at it, that's a good lad.)
>
> Lee
The tubes are fine. I pulled the thing apart and got to thinking that
unless the pull switch is busted, there really isn't much else that can go
wrong other than the ballast.
todd
"Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> The tubes are fine. I pulled the thing apart and got to thinking that
> unless the pull switch is busted, there really isn't much else that can go
> wrong other than the ballast.
>
> todd
If it is an heavy duty commercial fixture, buy a new ballast. If it is a
typical homeowner special from the big box store, buy another for half the
price of a ballast.
I have an undercounter kitchen fixture. I can buy a new fixture for 50¢ more
than just the replacement bulb.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Ur6ge.1317$rw4.84@trndny03...
>
> "Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> The tubes are fine. I pulled the thing apart and got to thinking that
>> unless the pull switch is busted, there really isn't much else that can
>> go
>> wrong other than the ballast.
>>
>> todd
>
> If it is an heavy duty commercial fixture, buy a new ballast. If it is a
> typical homeowner special from the big box store, buy another for half the
> price of a ballast.
>
> I have an undercounter kitchen fixture. I can buy a new fixture for 50¢
> more than just the replacement bulb.
>
I hear ya. I have had to replace a couple of those. The last one, I could
buy the fixture all over town. But no one sold a replacement bulb (tube).
GE does this. They have big, fancy displays of their fixtures. But only
bulbs for a couple of them.
If you are going to buy any kind of undercounter light, check first for
ECONOMICAL replacement bulbs. Then buy the fixture that matches. I am on my
third fixture. The one I had before was an 18 volt, 24 inch tube. The only
one I could find that matched actually cost about 50% more than the original
fixture and tube.
But I can buy 15 volt, 18 inch tubes with no problem. So that is the fixture
I went with. I also bought a couple replacement tubes. I am in good shape
for awhile. Most of those under counter fixtures are considered to be
disposable.
On Mon, 9 May 2005 22:43:30 -0500, "Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I was in the shop a couple of days ago, when one of the fluorescent fixtures
>stopped working. It wasn't in my line of sight at the time, but I think
>there was a pop and flash, followed by darkness. It's a newish fixture with
>an electronic ballast. I suspect that the ballast went kablooie, but I
>don't know how to test it, if it's even possible for me to test the output.
>I'd appreciate any pointers.
Swap the tubes with another fixture: if they work there, well, it's
not like there are dozens of *other* parts that could have failed.
(Peel off the 'Lucas' label while you're at it, that's a good lad.)
Lee
On Tue, 10 May 2005 17:46:28 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Todd Fatheree" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> The tubes are fine. I pulled the thing apart and got to thinking that
>> unless the pull switch is busted, there really isn't much else that can go
>> wrong other than the ballast.
>>
>> todd
>
>If it is an heavy duty commercial fixture, buy a new ballast. If it is a
>typical homeowner special from the big box store, buy another for half the
>price of a ballast.
>
>I have an undercounter kitchen fixture. I can buy a new fixture for 50¢ more
>than just the replacement bulb.
It used to be that you could by an HP Inkjet printer for about the
same cost as a set of replacement ink cartridges. They musta got wise
to that and only fill the supplied ones with a token amount of ink.
They should just give away the printers so they have a bigger market
for supplies.