"russ" <[email protected]> wrote
: hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
: couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
: i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
: woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
On my web site - 'Circular Sawbench Safety' is a list of criteria that might
be useful when purchasing a circular sawbench.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website www.username.clara.net
Well, I suppose if you make a lot of large panels with beveled edges, then
maybe a left-tilt will be better for you. How many people actually do this?
Seriously, I'm curious, because I never have and can't really forsee needing
to either.
What I do a lot of, however, is to use stacked dado blades. Not having to
worry about adjusting my measurements due to the addition of a stacked blade
when referencing the fence scale is of much more utility to me than being
able to cut the one bevel in 5 years that I might need to cut. I cut dadoes
or rabbets tens of times on almost every project. And the whole deal about
access to the motor is valid, but that really isn't an issue either, since I
only get in there maybe 2x per year. The only really good thing about a
left-tilt is that you have more shelf space under the right-side table.
Mike
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a
table
> > saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
> > ridiculous one when you think about it.
> >
> > To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
> blade.
> > To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left
of
> > the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade on
a
> > left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
> > right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still cut
> > yourself with either saw.
> >
> > Stop the misinformation!
> >
> > Mike
>
> One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both
sides
> of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your right
tilt
> saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of the
> saw.
>
> That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of those
> of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a board or
> panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel cut
> sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on a
left
> tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.
>
>
Mike in Mystic wrote:
>
> I think you'll be thrilled with it, Jack.
>
> As I said before, the only really good reason to get a left-tilt is if you
> plan to do a lot of large panel beveling. I honestly don't think this will
> describe very many woodworkers, but, as always, I wouldn't be surprised to
> find out I'm wrong. But, if you asked yourself the question "which features
> are more important to me?", then you should be very happy with your choice.
> That's what I did and a right-tilt was the clear choice. I'm extremely
> happy I bought it.
>
> Mike
>
Mike,
I had a right-tilt 9" Rockwell many years ago, something never felt
right with it even though for what I was asking it did just fine, I gave
it to my dad about 20 years ago and it's still running. Since then every
saw I've purchased (3), including my jobsite saw, has been a left-tilt.
This deal about having to deal with a dado blade is a wash, it's a piece
of cake to handle and shouldn't be blown out of proportion. Personally,
I like to know that I can make all of the cuts I want with my fence on
the right of the blade. A left-hander might feel differently..and that
is when I, if I was in that situation, would make the decision to
reverse the mounting of the fence to get the same features.
JMHO,
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
russ wrote:
>
> hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
> couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
> i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
> woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
>
> thanks
> russ
> www.russkinzie.com
Just wondering, what are you using now and why do you feel a need for a
change?
BTW, finished fireplace unit looked nice, concept drawings were kinda
the other way.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
I always figured the Powermatic was THE SAW. The one to buy just
because it's the best. Kind of like buying a bmw over my very
serviceable toyota.
-David
On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:26:21 GMT, jo4hn <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>Shoot. For a few extra bucks you can get the SAW of SAWS! The PM66.
>This thing
>will pass the nickel test, toast bread, figure your income tax, and
>count the change in your pocket by radar. Take that all you Unisars and
>Grizzers. ;-)
> mahalo,
> jo4hn
>
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:11:59 GMT, [email protected] (D) wrote:
>I always figured the Powermatic was THE SAW. The one to buy just
>because it's the best. Kind of like buying a bmw over my very
>serviceable toyota.
>
>-David
>
The PM 66 meets all the citeria of a quality tablesaw and the tablesaw
is the workhorse of most shops. Delta tablesaws used to be well-made
in the 1950's, but today the quality is not the same. I can't compare
tablesaws to vehicles because it would be rare to see a vehicle that
has lasted a lifetime. A General 350 tablesaw is also good.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 10:54:29 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r . <Keep it
in the [email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 21:12:50 GMT, "dan" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>>
>> I have used the Powermatic T66 and it is great also. What I liked about the
>>pm66 is that the blade tilts away from the fence which is safer because you
>>aren't pinching your stock/work under the blade and between the fence at the
>>same time. Again costs a fortune.
>
>Many saws are available in left tilt. This is not feature unique to
>the PM66 .
>
>Barry
Why folks think the PM 66 "costs a fortune." Yeah, its about two
grand, but my lathe was twice that amount and I consider the PM 66 a
better value because I use it a lot. And, I've only bought ONE saw
in my life, and that will probably be the last.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 10:21:46 -0500, V.E. Dorn wrote:
> You didn't include shipping, but I get the idea - and agree with you. It's
> just that I'd have to forgoe the flowers and dinner to help offset. :)
I figured that shipping, taxes, etc. would be a wash. I guess the Griz
combo would be more to ship because of the jointer, but then I live close
enough to their Springfield, MO store to just pick it up. ;^)
--
Joe Wells
"Steve Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Grizzly - smizzly
>
> Get a real saw, get a Felder
Thats a kit saw ain't it? ;~)
"JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> So really, except for the massive feeling of guilt from buying a saw that
> tilts the opposite way from my politics, I am happier with a right tilt.
It
> will also be easier to use after I cut off my right hand....
LOL. I really didn't try to start an argument. I just stopped by to ask a ?.
I've used both right and left tilt saws, unisaw and powermatic and liked
them both.
I bought a delta contractors saw and it works great, a little low on hp but
other than that it's been a great saw (right tilt). Money was the deciding
factor.
I was just offering up some personal insite. It sounds like this subject
has probably been hammered to death a few times in this group before.
Sorry to start it up again. ;-)
Dan
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Either situation, IMO, isn't really difficult to work around. The whole
> idea of choosing something so the tilt wheel is on the side of your
dominant
> hand is silly. Can you really tell me that you aren't coordinated enough
to
> use the other hand if you need to? I'm right-handed, but believe it or
not,
> I actually can successfully use the tilt wheel on my right-tilt with my
left
> hand. Shocking.
:~) Considering that I could use my right hand to tilt the blade and my
left hand to raise the blade, I always use my right hand to do both. I did
however try to raise the blade with my left hand one time and it indeed felt
aquard. I am sure it is sometheing I could have gotten used to if I had
chosen a right tilt for the first buy 20 years ago.
> And, Leon, I've seen these lists comparing right vs. left tilts and most
of
> the "benefits" to left vs. right are not substantive at all. If I need to
> do a bevel more than ~16 inches from the fence, then it becomes an issue.
> But, which way you have to tighten the arbor nut, which side the tilt
wheel
> is on, etc. really are so insignificant as to be not worth mentioning.
The
> loss of shelf space is another real issue, but it isn't going to make or
> break the deal.
You have probably seen my list. It is the one that points out those small
differences. My list is for those that have considered all the pro's and
con's of both versions and still need the push to go either way.
> So, I have a question. Do you honestly do more beveling than dadoing?
And,
> what's the use of having a nice accurate fence with a good distance
> indicator if you need to use a tape measure to set the fence? More
> importantly, I've used left-tilts to do dadoing and more than once I
forgot
> and used the tape and screwed up some panels. Wasting wood is too
> expensive, so that's what made my decision.
Absolutely. I do this for a supplimental income and build a lot of cabinets
with cabinet quality plywood. I 45 a lot of corners. Oddly in my 25 years
of serious woodworking I have never used a stacked dado set for dadoing with
the exception of cutting centered grooves on rails and styles for floating
paneled cabinet doors when I use stubb tennons joints. When I do need
dado's I use either my dado jig that I designed for my hand held router or I
use my router table.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Only one factor is left to work with and that's left or
> > right handedness.
>
> Not a factor at all IMO. I'm left handed and have no trouble using any of
> the tools in a right handed world. Having learned to do some thing because
> that is the way they are made, I'd be uncomfortable doing the opposite. I
> use my right hand to push when ripping a board. Only time I always use
my
> left hand is writing and hold my other tool when taking a leak.
So you rip a board and tilt or adjust the saw blade height at the same time?
I know that's not what you meant, but it's what you're saying. Sure left or
right handed people can be trained to do any action, but without additional
information, it makes sense for someone to go the route that is most
comfortable to start with. Maybe you don't agree, but I suspect you can't
give much of an argument to the contrary. As far as bevel cutting or groove
cutting goes, I also suspect the most important thing on the mind of someone
new to a tablesaw is the cutting of straight square boards. Bevel cuts or
dados come later with practical experience, at least to my mind anyway.
"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message:
> Jums' modified version of my post made me laugh too much to be upset about
> this twisting of logic. hehe
LOL! Glad I got a smile out of ya Mike. I'm starting the weekend off early
(off tomorrow) so I won't be around here to crack a grin with ya.
> Honestly, if you have the $ get the Unisaw, if you don't, the Grizzly is
> sure to make you happy, too.
If ya got the *big* bucks - get the Norm Abrams model. :-)
> But, get the Grizzly. ;-)
>
> Mike
"Ernie Jurick" <[email protected]> wrote in message:
> You guys want to settle this with pistols in the churchyard at dawn? ;-)
Hell no - I'm sleeping in tomorrow. Check with Mike's secretary - have her
check with my secretary, and we'll see what time is convenient. If you have
time, that is . . . . . :-)
Jums
Normally it would be a wash...but IIRC Amazon often offers free shipping.
"Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 10:21:46 -0500, V.E. Dorn wrote:
>
> > You didn't include shipping, but I get the idea - and agree with you.
It's
> > just that I'd have to forgoe the flowers and dinner to help offset. :)
>
> I figured that shipping, taxes, etc. would be a wash. I guess the Griz
> combo would be more to ship because of the jointer, but then I live close
> enough to their Springfield, MO store to just pick it up. ;^)
>
> --
> Joe Wells
>
>
"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you're selling the children go all the way
> http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/tablesaws/tablesaws.htm
> Joe
> who's glad he was sitting down when he checked the price
Holy shit! Well, like y'all are fond of saying, buy it right the first time
and only cry once!
Rob
Who is wishing he wasn't drinking his morning Coke when he looked at the
price list.
Let me clear up Mike's post . . . obviously confused :-)
First, get the Grizzly. Do not pass go, and you won't have to shell out
many $$.
Get the Grizzly. Period.
Ok, if you are hard-headed and want to think over something else, get a Jet
cabinetsaw.
But, remember, get the Grizzly.
Ok, if you're REALLY hard-headed, look at the Unisaw. If you must, get a
Unisaw.
One more time. Get the Grizzly.
There are many reasons, but don't cause yourself pain. Just get the
Grizzly.
Mike
You don't have to thank me, Mike. (I know you won't anyway!) LOL!
Jums
"russ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
> couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
> i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
> woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
>
> thanks
> russ
> www.russkinzie.com
Jim Mc Namara wrote:
> "Mike in Mystic" wrote in message:
>
>>Jums' modified version of my post made me laugh too much to be upset about
>>this twisting of logic. hehe
[snip]
>Mike
>
Shoot. For a few extra bucks you can get the SAW of SAWS! The PM66.
This thing
will pass the nickel test, toast bread, figure your income tax, and
count the change in your pocket by radar. Take that all you Unisars and
Grizzers. ;-)
mahalo,
jo4hn
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"Bob G. " <wrote=20
there is NO SAFETY issue between the two... in 99 point 9 percent of =
the cuts
I said something like that=20
moving the fence to the left of the blade on a right tilt saw is NOT a =
big deal...
Mike said that
Dan trying not to get misquoted=20
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------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C34D0B.4DDCC980--
"Jim Mc Namara" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Let me clear up Mike's post . . . obviously confused :-)
>
You guys want to settle this with pistols in the churchyard at dawn? ;-)
-- Ernie
I think you'll be thrilled with it, Jack.
As I said before, the only really good reason to get a left-tilt is if you
plan to do a lot of large panel beveling. I honestly don't think this will
describe very many woodworkers, but, as always, I wouldn't be surprised to
find out I'm wrong. But, if you asked yourself the question "which features
are more important to me?", then you should be very happy with your choice.
That's what I did and a right-tilt was the clear choice. I'm extremely
happy I bought it.
Mike
"JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I hope you are correct as I just placed an order on a right tilt, thinking
> that many items in the long list of reasons for a left tilt are either
> overstated or are un-important to me.
>
> -Jack
>
>
> "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Well, I suppose if you make a lot of large panels with beveled edges,
then
> > maybe a left-tilt will be better for you. How many people actually do
> this?
> > Seriously, I'm curious, because I never have and can't really forsee
> needing
> > to either.
> >
> > What I do a lot of, however, is to use stacked dado blades. Not having
to
> > worry about adjusting my measurements due to the addition of a stacked
> blade
> > when referencing the fence scale is of much more utility to me than
being
> > able to cut the one bevel in 5 years that I might need to cut. I cut
> dadoes
> > or rabbets tens of times on almost every project. And the whole deal
> about
> > access to the motor is valid, but that really isn't an issue either,
since
> I
> > only get in there maybe 2x per year. The only really good thing about a
> > left-tilt is that you have more shelf space under the right-side table.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a
> > table
> > > > saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
> > > > ridiculous one when you think about it.
> > > >
> > > > To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of
the
> > > blade.
> > > > To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the
left
> > of
> > > > the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the
blade
> on
> > a
> > > > left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
> > > > right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still
> cut
> > > > yourself with either saw.
> > > >
> > > > Stop the misinformation!
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > >
> > > One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both
> > sides
> > > of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your
right
> > tilt
> > > saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of
> the
> > > saw.
> > >
> > > That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of
> those
> > > of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a
board
> or
> > > panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel
cut
> > > sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on
a
> > left
> > > tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
"JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> 1) Bevel wheel on right
> Not a problem. I'm used to it being on the left. With wheel on the left I
> can operate it with my left hand and use my right for raising/lowering the
> blade at the same time.
Well I have a hard time chewing bubble gum and walking....sometimes... LOL
I know that cranking both at once would end up with me cranking one in the
wrong dirrection.
> 6) Storage room under right wing.
> On a mobile base it doesn't really matter much. I have to move the tool to
> get set up anyway.
Well, I have a left tilt, and a mobile base and storage under the right
extension table. You may still be able to utilize some of that space too IF
you are interested. I have a pic if you would be interested seeing my under
table storage solution. I have a 6 drawer unit, for small items, a seperate
shelf for both my left and right Dubby sleds, rip fence, and 2 bevel gauges.
These all ride around comfortably on top of the mobile base.
> Here are the additional reasons for the right tilt.
>
> 1) Cheaper at least for the brand I decided upon.
> This reason always gets a star * or at least a happy face :-)
Always a valid reason.
> 2) Right tilt motor doesn't interfere with fitting a sliding table.
> Who knows, I may get one someday.
Correct in most cases... IIRC JET offers a sliding table with left tilt but
that would pretty much limit your choice to Jet.
> So really, except for the massive feeling of guilt from buying a saw that
> tilts the opposite way from my politics, I am happier with a right tilt.
It
> will also be easier to use after I cut off my right hand....
So there you go, personal preference... For some reason I was under the
impression that this was your first. Old habits are hard to break.
Thank you.
Leon
"Andrew Barss" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Get the Jet cabinet saw, which is a terrific machine and priced enough
> below the Delta to pay for a really good couple of blades.
or the 15 roller outfeed table, or mobile base
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 01:18:16 +0000, Andrew Barss wrote:
> russ <[email protected]> wrote:
> : hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
> : couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
> : i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
> : woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
>
>
> Get the Jet cabinet saw, which is a terrific machine and priced enough
> below the Delta to pay for a really good couple of blades.
Well, let's see here. On Amazon, a 3HP left-tilt Unisaw with 50" Biesmeyer
fence goes for $1595. For that you can get:
Grizzly 1023L 3HP left-tilt w Biesmeyer clone fence: $895
Griz Bies clone rail extensions (to match the unisaw fence): $149
Griz 1182HW "low-end" 6" jointer: $325
Forrest WW II blade: $100
Flowers for when SWMBO sees the checkbook: $30
Dinner for after SWMBO sees the checkbook: $50
And still have $50 left over to start buying wood with.
--
Joe Wells
Get the Unisaw. In order, get the Unisaw, Powermatic 66, Jet [?] or
Grizzley. Reasons: better finish [on those I've seen], more accessories,
made in USA. harrym
"russ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
> couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
> i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
> woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
>
> thanks
> russ
> www.russkinzie.com
Unisaw and Powermatic [unless Jet, the new owner of Powermatic, is changing
that situation]. harrym
"JLucas ILS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Harry,
> WHich are made in USA?
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 12:16:09 GMT, "dan" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I was pointing that out because the Unisaw tilts to the right.
No, the Unisaw tilts to EITHER side, depending on the model purchased.
<G>
Barry
and don't forget to get the optional saw-stop.
"Jim Mc Namara" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Let me clear up Mike's post . . . obviously confused :-)
>
>
> First, get the Grizzly. Do not pass go, and you won't have to shell out
> many $$.
>
> Get the Grizzly. Period.
>
> Ok, if you are hard-headed and want to think over something else, get a
Jet
> cabinetsaw.
>
> But, remember, get the Grizzly.
>
> Ok, if you're REALLY hard-headed, look at the Unisaw. If you must, get a
> Unisaw.
>
> One more time. Get the Grizzly.
>
> There are many reasons, but don't cause yourself pain. Just get the
> Grizzly.
>
> Mike
>
> You don't have to thank me, Mike. (I know you won't anyway!) LOL!
>
> Jums
>
>
>
> "russ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
> > couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
> > i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
> > woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
> >
> > thanks
> > russ
> > www.russkinzie.com
>
>
russ <[email protected]> wrote:
: hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
: couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
: i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
: woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
Get the Jet cabinet saw, which is a terrific machine and priced enough
below the Delta to pay for a really good couple of blades.
-- Andy Barss
If you're selling the children go all the way
http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/tablesaws/tablesaws.htm
Joe
who's glad he was sitting down when he checked the price
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:29:55 GMT, "Jim Mc Namara" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm sleeping in tomorrow. Check with Mike's secretary
>
>
> You're sleeping with Mike's secretary ?
>
> Get the Unisaw. You can always sell the children.
>
> - Unless you're British, in which case get an old Wadkin.
>
> Or alternatively, get the non-Unisaw equivalent (US, Delta something,
> with big trunnions, like a Wadkin, not axle bearings like a Unisaw).
>
> But don't get the Grizzly. You can get better than the Grizzly, and
> you can get cheaper than the Grizzly, but the Grizzly is not the same
> as a Unisaw equivalent. That huge weight of cast iron really is worth
> having.
>
>
I hope you are correct as I just placed an order on a right tilt, thinking
that many items in the long list of reasons for a left tilt are either
overstated or are un-important to me.
-Jack
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, I suppose if you make a lot of large panels with beveled edges, then
> maybe a left-tilt will be better for you. How many people actually do
this?
> Seriously, I'm curious, because I never have and can't really forsee
needing
> to either.
>
> What I do a lot of, however, is to use stacked dado blades. Not having to
> worry about adjusting my measurements due to the addition of a stacked
blade
> when referencing the fence scale is of much more utility to me than being
> able to cut the one bevel in 5 years that I might need to cut. I cut
dadoes
> or rabbets tens of times on almost every project. And the whole deal
about
> access to the motor is valid, but that really isn't an issue either, since
I
> only get in there maybe 2x per year. The only really good thing about a
> left-tilt is that you have more shelf space under the right-side table.
>
> Mike
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a
> table
> > > saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
> > > ridiculous one when you think about it.
> > >
> > > To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
> > blade.
> > > To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left
> of
> > > the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade
on
> a
> > > left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
> > > right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still
cut
> > > yourself with either saw.
> > >
> > > Stop the misinformation!
> > >
> > > Mike
> >
> > One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both
> sides
> > of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your right
> tilt
> > saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of
the
> > saw.
> >
> > That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of
those
> > of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a board
or
> > panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel cut
> > sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on a
> left
> > tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.
> >
> >
>
>
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote
>
> Many saws are available in left tilt. This is not feature unique to
> the PM66 .
>
> Barry
>
Yes you are correct.
I was pointing that out because the Unisaw tilts to the right. With that
information "russ" could make a more informed decision on what I think are
the top 2 saws readily available. Then he could decide between the more
common and easier to find accessories for Unisaw and the safer (only in the
mode of cutting between tilted blade and fence ) PM66.
Just MHO. Just trying to help. :-)
Dan
Well, no, but that is one of the reasons I use in my rubber stamp reply.
An exception would be if you are will be cutting a lot of grooves or dados
at different distances from the edge of the wood, the right tilt would
probably be the better choice regardless if you are right or left handed.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> > BTY, you have seen the long list of reasons to get the left over the
right
> > and I agreed most are strictly personal preference but when you compared
> the
> > long list of reasons to get the left tilt vs. the reasons to the right
> tilt,
> > what reason on the right tilt list swayed you to choose the right tilt?
>
> The best reason is practical. If you're right handed, then it makes sense
to
> go with left tilt and the wheel on the right. Left handed, then it's
pretty
> obvious to go with right tilt. Can't get more practical with that.
>
>
>
On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:29:55 GMT, "Jim Mc Namara" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm sleeping in tomorrow. Check with Mike's secretary
You're sleeping with Mike's secretary ?
Get the Unisaw. You can always sell the children.
- Unless you're British, in which case get an old Wadkin.
Or alternatively, get the non-Unisaw equivalent (US, Delta something,
with big trunnions, like a Wadkin, not axle bearings like a Unisaw).
But don't get the Grizzly. You can get better than the Grizzly, and
you can get cheaper than the Grizzly, but the Grizzly is not the same
as a Unisaw equivalent. That huge weight of cast iron really is worth
having.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: tablesaws
> The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a table
> saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
> ridiculous one when you think about it.
>
> To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
blade.
> To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left of
> the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade on a
> left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
> right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still cut
> yourself with either saw.
>
> Stop the misinformation!
>
> Mike
>
Most extended fences are to the right of the saw blade. Try cutting a 40" X
40" square with one edge against the fence and the other edge under your saw
blade. It doesn't take much imagination to figure out the possible results.
Not misinformation!
Dan
Sorry for sending reply directly to you Mike. I hit the wrong button.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Steve Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Grizzly - smizzly
> >
> > Get a real saw, get a Felder
>
> Thats a kit saw ain't it? ;~)
>
Naw, it's one of those saws that are owned by people who think they can
buy talent.
Don't you mean Woodtek here, not Griz? Woodtek is the brand distributed by
Woodworkers Supply Inc. Have never seen one, but I do buy frequently from
the company. harrym
"Steven Bliss" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you have $$$ to burn, get anything but Griz.
Buy a Unisaw first. Then with the difference between it and a PM 66,
go buy the Delta Industrial drill press for $700. It is nice.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 08:48:35 -0400, "Rob Walters"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> If you're selling the children go all the way
>> http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/tablesaws/tablesaws.htm
>> Joe
>> who's glad he was sitting down when he checked the price
>
>Holy shit! Well, like y'all are fond of saying, buy it right the first time
>and only cry once!
>
>Rob
>
>Who is wishing he wasn't drinking his morning Coke when he looked at the
>price list.
>
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The way the blade tilts has absolutely NOTHING to do with how safe a table
> saw is. That is a myth that keeps getting spread and it is a very
> ridiculous one when you think about it.
>
> To cut bevels on a left-tilt, you leave the fence to the right of the
blade.
> To cut bevels on the right tilt you have to move the fence to the left of
> the blade. BIG DEAL. If you had the fence on the right of the blade on a
> left-tilt and cut a bevel it would have the same safety issue as a
> right-tilt with the fence on the right of the blade. You can still cut
> yourself with either saw.
>
> Stop the misinformation!
>
> Mike
One fallacy with your explanation. If you are cutting bevels on both sides
of a panel that is larger than the left side rip capacity of your right tilt
saw, you end up cutting the bevel with the fence on the right side of the
saw.
That said, the advantages IMHO of a left tilt far out weigh those of those
of a right tilt especially when cutting bevels on both sides of a board or
panel, narrow or wide. You dont have to worry about the first bevel cut
sliding under the fence then cutting the second parallel bevel cut on a left
tilt saw if you leave the same side down or up.
On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 21:12:50 GMT, "dan" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> I have used the Powermatic T66 and it is great also. What I liked about the
>pm66 is that the blade tilts away from the fence which is safer because you
>aren't pinching your stock/work under the blade and between the fence at the
>same time. Again costs a fortune.
Many saws are available in left tilt. This is not feature unique to
the PM66 .
Barry
If you have $$$ to burn, get anything but Griz. I would bet that you will
be very happy with the Uni, PM, or Griz. MOST people won't be able to tell
the difference IF there is one. IMHO, all tablesaws probably come from
different corners of the same building anyway :-)
I've turned out some nice product out of my griz, the same as others have
turned out fine product from theirs. Probably a Ford Vs. Chevy kind of
thing. I have found that it isn't the tablesaw that limits my ability to
make a good product, but my learning curve. For the price of a Unisaw or
PM, you can get a great Griz & maybe have enough left over for that bandsaw
and/or a small jointer.
"russ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> hey everybody i am going to be in the market for a new tablesaw in a
> couple of months. it is either going to be a delta unisaw or woodtek.
> i have heard plenty of things about delta but nothing of
> woodtek.anybody out there with a woodtek.
>
> thanks
> russ
> www.russkinzie.com
"JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I hope you are correct as I just placed an order on a right tilt, thinking
> that many items in the long list of reasons for a left tilt are either
> overstated or are un-important to me.
>
> -Jack
LOL... well too late now.. I'm sure you will be happy with it and be able to
work around any thing that may come up. In a professional setting the
differences may nag at you when you are on the saw for many hours a week and
were used to the opposite tilt.
BTY, you have seen the long list of reasons to get the left over the right
and I agreed most are strictly personal preference but when you compared the
long list of reasons to get the left tilt vs. the reasons to the right tilt,
what reason on the right tilt list swayed you to choose the right tilt? I
don't know if you have seen my "rubber stamp" answer to choosing one over
the other but it gives you the little things to think about if you cannot
decide which way to go and I may add your reasons to the right tilt
reasoning.
Leon wrote:
> Well I have a hard time chewing bubble gum and walking....sometimes...
> LOL I know that cranking both at once would end up with me cranking one in
> the wrong dirrection.
Ain't you ever used an Etch-a-Sketch boy? :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16573 Approximate word count: 497190
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
But considering a wash, your points were all clearly valid even if the wife
only gets fine furniture vs. roses and dinner. ;~)
"Joe Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:56:35 +0000, Leon wrote:
>
> > Normally it would be a wash...but IIRC Amazon often offers free
shipping.
>
> Ah, I didn't realize that Amazon did that for big stuff like a Unisaw, but
> checking again, they clearly do. That does mess with my math a bit,
> doesn't it? Oh well.
>
> --
> Joe Wells
>
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 14:41:53 GMT, "Bob G. " <[email protected]> wrote:
[snip]
>
>However as one poster pointed out cutting two bevel cuts on opposite
>sides on a panel where the
>cutting compacity on the left of the blade is too short... can be, and
>is a safety issue...even if it is a small one.
>
[snip]
Are you saying that cutting from the right of the blade w/ a right-tilt TS is a
manageable safety situation -- i.e., it can be done w/ relative safety?
That's it exactly, Leon.
To me there are only two factors: 1) are you going to do a lot of beveling
relative to dadoing = get a left-tilt; 2) are you going to do a lot of
dadoing relative to beveling = get a right-tilt.
Either situation, IMO, isn't really difficult to work around. The whole
idea of choosing something so the tilt wheel is on the side of your dominant
hand is silly. Can you really tell me that you aren't coordinated enough to
use the other hand if you need to? I'm right-handed, but believe it or not,
I actually can successfully use the tilt wheel on my right-tilt with my left
hand. Shocking.
And, Leon, I've seen these lists comparing right vs. left tilts and most of
the "benefits" to left vs. right are not substantive at all. If I need to
do a bevel more than ~16 inches from the fence, then it becomes an issue.
But, which way you have to tighten the arbor nut, which side the tilt wheel
is on, etc. really are so insignificant as to be not worth mentioning. The
loss of shelf space is another real issue, but it isn't going to make or
break the deal.
So, I have a question. Do you honestly do more beveling than dadoing? And,
what's the use of having a nice accurate fence with a good distance
indicator if you need to use a tape measure to set the fence? More
importantly, I've used left-tilts to do dadoing and more than once I forgot
and used the tape and screwed up some panels. Wasting wood is too
expensive, so that's what made my decision.
I guess I've said my piece more than I should have. I just get sick of
people saying how SAFE the left-tilt is relative to the right. A load of
hogwash.
Mike
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, no, but that is one of the reasons I use in my rubber stamp reply.
> An exception would be if you are will be cutting a lot of grooves or dados
> at different distances from the edge of the wood, the right tilt would
> probably be the better choice regardless if you are right or left handed.
>
>
>
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > "JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > BTY, you have seen the long list of reasons to get the left over the
> right
> > > and I agreed most are strictly personal preference but when you
compared
> > the
> > > long list of reasons to get the left tilt vs. the reasons to the right
> > tilt,
> > > what reason on the right tilt list swayed you to choose the right
tilt?
> >
> > The best reason is practical. If you're right handed, then it makes
sense
> to
> > go with left tilt and the wheel on the right. Left handed, then it's
> pretty
> > obvious to go with right tilt. Can't get more practical with that.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jums' modified version of my post made me laugh too much to be upset about
> this twisting of logic. hehe
>
> Honestly, if you have the $ get the Unisaw, if you don't, the Grizzly is
> sure to make you happy, too.
>
> But, get the Unisaw. ;-)
>
> Mike
Don't hold back, Mike...you can tell us how you really feel...we can take
it.
:)
Mike
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> That's it exactly, Leon.
>
> To me there are only two factors: 1) are you going to do a lot of
beveling
> relative to dadoing = get a left-tilt; 2) are you going to do a lot of
> dadoing relative to beveling = get a right-tilt.
And how exactly does one know that considering they don't have enough
working experience working with either type to make a decision? If someone
doesn't have the experience, then it's highly unlikely they know what type
of cut they're going to be making under most circumstances. It's more likely
this person is a new woodworker when it comes to a tablesaw. Do you actually
think they know what they're going to be building for the next twenty years?
Don't be ridiculous. Only one factor is left to work with and that's left or
right handedness.