On Sep 12, 9:35=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Sep 10, 7:48 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> My life with panel cuts became a very calm place when I found the
> cousins to this bit several years ago and hooked it up to my 3hp
> DeWalt:
>
> http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infvertpnlbitrvu.html
>
> These bits work like a champ, and I am not worried one bit about the
> lateral stresses on my router ruining bearings compared to those
> winged devils.
>
> I have yet to use one of the vertical bits, =A0do you still make several
> passes at increasing depths to the desired cutting depth?
> And if you do, do you make the passes at different bit depth settings or
> different fence settings?
>
> I spin the large bits now but would not mind going smaller to achieve the
> same goal. =A0I would especially appreciate not having to change bases to
> accomidate the 3" bits when all my panels have straight edges.
You can back-cut the bevel on the router table, either vertically or
horizontally, just not the at the same time.
I take several passes. The last one being a light one.
Try a good quality one, Leon, I think you will like it.
On Sep 11, 10:51=A0pm, Steve Turner <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Sep 11, 3:27 pm, Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> The trouble is, with those bits you can't cut profiles in arched panel=
doors...
>
> > People still make those? *smirk*
>
> Really incredibly *cool* people do, yeah. =A0:-)
>
That would make me incredibly uncool, but I like raised panel doors. I
am not too keen on old-style-religious-type icon/rectory-window
shapes. No place for that 'look' in a kitchen. I'm not a huge fan of
oak in a kitchen for the same reason. Leave oak and ash for pews.
But that is why God made so many different trees.... something for
everybody.
On Sep 10, 3:32=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-Bo...
>
> Bill
I find the 1.75 HP Milwaukee a bit 'buzzy'. It vibrates. The 2.25 is
much better and is variable speed.
But, having said that, that sure is a good price.
On Sep 12, 9:54=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:0593d8d0-491e-49ce-874e-fe954947cf96@o41g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 12, 9:35 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> You can back-cut the bevel on the router table, either vertically or
> horizontally, just not the at the same time.
>
> Yeah, that is what I do. =A0The back cutter bits can only be adjusted by
> moving the fence, not by raising the bit. =A0;~)
>
> I take several passes. The last one being a light one.
> Try a good quality one, Leon, I think you will like it.
>
> Do you adjust the fence or raise the bit?
I have a tall fence that slides on my normal fence and I adjust it to
take small bites.
I do not have a router-lifter... so raising the bit is a PITA.
Of course, now I would take a different approach with a specialty
insert bit for the CNC.
Ordering doors is soooo much easier.
I bought this unit earlier this year. Have only used it once, but am
impressed at the value. A little weighty compared to my PC690, but at
that price you can't go wrong.
Bill wrote:
> http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-BodyGrip/dp/B000QV35AK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1252610853&sr=1-1
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 08:54:41 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Do you adjust the fence or raise the bit?
I tend to do a mix of both, as it allows me to not be fussy about
setting anything up at the start. However the last finishing pass
should be done moving the fence, at least for a cove profile. You
basically aren't removing any material anymore at the bottom (edge of
the panel) if you raise the bit because the profile is basically
straight there, so it would only be cleaning up the upper 2/3s or so
of the profile.
I use them to do an edge treatment on box tops more than for panels.
-Kevin
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Sep 10, 7:48 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
My life with panel cuts became a very calm place when I found the
cousins to this bit several years ago and hooked it up to my 3hp
DeWalt:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infvertpnlbitrvu.html
These bits work like a champ, and I am not worried one bit about the
lateral stresses on my router ruining bearings compared to those
winged devils.
I have yet to use one of the vertical bits, do you still make several
passes at increasing depths to the desired cutting depth?
And if you do, do you make the passes at different bit depth settings or
different fence settings?
I spin the large bits now but would not mind going smaller to achieve the
same goal. I would especially appreciate not having to change bases to
accomidate the 3" bits when all my panels have straight edges.
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
>> http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infvertpnlbitrvu.html
>>
>> These bits work like a champ, and I am not worried one bit about the
>> lateral stresses on my router ruining bearings compared to those
>> winged devils.
>
> The trouble is, with those bits you can't cut profiles in arched panel
> doors...
And they can not back cut the panel like some horizonal bits do.
I basically have no problem with large horizonal bits spinning at 10,000,
all is quiet and relaxed. BUT you do have to be extra careful as there is a
lot of exposed bit, especially if doing arched doors when the fence is not
hiding half of the bit.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0593d8d0-491e-49ce-874e-fe954947cf96@o41g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 12, 9:35 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
You can back-cut the bevel on the router table, either vertically or
horizontally, just not the at the same time.
Yeah, that is what I do. The back cutter bits can only be adjusted by
moving the fence, not by raising the bit. ;~)
I take several passes. The last one being a light one.
Try a good quality one, Leon, I think you will like it.
Do you adjust the fence or raise the bit?
On Sep 11, 3:27=A0pm, Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > On Sep 10, 7:48 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> Actually, the 2-1/4 HP Milwaukee would do a good job in a table.
> >> EXCEPT when swinging big horizontal panel bits.
> >> Then again, I quite like the vertical panel bits.
> >> I always felt that a big fat horizontal panel bit belongs in a shaper,
> >> not a router.... of any size.
>
> > AMEN, brother! =A0Can I get a witness??
>
> > I couldn't agree more with what he said. =A0Those 3" bits are too damn
> > scary to put in a router, and I don't believe that routers were ever
> > made specifically to spin those, no matter what model, make, HP or
> > anything else they have. =A0Just because you can, doesn't mean it is a
> > good idea.
>
> I run them at the absolute lowest speed in my Makita 3612C (9,000 RPM) an=
d it's still scary.
>
> > My life with panel cuts became a very calm place when I found the
> > cousins to this bit several years ago and hooked it up to my 3hp
> > DeWalt:
>
> >http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infvertpnlbitrvu.html
>
> > These bits work like a champ, and I am not worried one bit about the
> > lateral stresses on my router ruining bearings compared to those
> > winged devils.
>
> The trouble is, with those bits you can't cut profiles in arched panel do=
ors...
>
People still make those? *smirk*
Have priors, see link:
http://patwarner.com/5616pk.html
***************************************************************************=
*******
On Sep 10, 12:32=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-Bo...
>
> Bill
On Sep 10, 7:48=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Actually, the 2-1/4 HP Milwaukee would do a good job in a table.
> EXCEPT when swinging big horizontal panel bits.
> Then again, I quite like the vertical panel bits.
> I always felt that a big fat horizontal panel bit belongs in a shaper,
> not a router.... of any size.
AMEN, brother! Can I get a witness??
I couldn't agree more with what he said. Those 3" bits are too damn
scary to put in a router, and I don't believe that routers were ever
made specifically to spin those, no matter what model, make, HP or
anything else they have. Just because you can, doesn't mean it is a
good idea.
My life with panel cuts became a very calm place when I found the
cousins to this bit several years ago and hooked it up to my 3hp
DeWalt:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infvertpnlbitrvu.html
These bits work like a champ, and I am not worried one bit about the
lateral stresses on my router ruining bearings compared to those
winged devils.
Note in the link above they make it a POINT to test with a 2 1/4 hp
router. They even have pic results of cutting through a knot.
I have a Milwaukee router, and plenty of other Miwaukee tools. Not a
dud in the bunch.
Keep your original packaging, try out the router and send it back if
you don't like it. With that price.... I don't know how hard I would
resist if I was in the market for a router.
Robert
On Thu, 10 Sep 2009 19:28:06 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Bill wrote:
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-BodyGrip/dp/B000QV35AK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1252610853&sr=1-1
>>
>> Even if all you do is use it as a paper weight, at that price it is a
>> winner.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
>I believe you. I have a question now about its variable speed bigger cousin
>(Milwaukee 5616-24, 2 1/4 hp), is the speed controlled in a way that would
>be useful in a router table, or is it trigger controlled" like on a variable
>speed drill? I should probably get the first one, I just want to avoid a
>coulda-woulda-shoulda...
>
>Thanks,
>Bill
>
To answer your question, the speed on this router is controlled by a
small dial on the top of the motor housing. Separate from the on/off
switch. You don't hold either speed or on/off down to operate the
router, unless you get the D-handle, which includes a trigger type
on/off switch.
On Thu, 10 Sep 2009 15:32:32 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-BodyGrip/dp/B000QV35AK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1252610853&sr=1-1
>
>Bill
>
>
>
I originally bought the 5615 router. (not the kit) ... The bearing
went after just a couple months. When I took it back they let have
full credit towards the 2 1/4 hp model. It's a great router! That
being said ... I added the plunge base later and paid almost as much
as the deal you are looking at ... so, it's certainly worth it. Also,
Milwaukee's warranty is for 5 years !
Lenny
On Sep 10, 8:39=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Bill" wrote:
> > I believe you. =A0I have a question now about its variable speed
> > bigger cousin (Milwaukee 5616-24, 2 1/4 hp), is the speed controlled
> > in a way that would be useful in a router table, or is it trigger
> > controlled" like on a variable speed drill? =A0I should probably get
> > the first one, I just want to avoid a coulda-woulda-shoulda...
>
> IMHO, 2-1/4 HP is not an optimum choice for a table router.
>
> The 5625 would be a better choice.
>
> You want the biggest baddest router you can afford in a table.
>
> Also, you need to be able to set max RPM at 10,000 max for use with
> bits above 1" in diameter.
>
> Trying to swing a large panel bit above 10,000 RPM is not only scary,
> it is down right dangerous as well as exceeding bit manufacturer's max
> RPM spec.
>
> Being able to set RPM to match cutter is a big plus for a table
> router.
>
> If I were in the market, I buy two(2) kits for less than $210 and
> leave one with a fixed base and the other with the plunge base on a
> permanent basis.
>
> Saves a lot of hassle.
>
> The table router comes later.
>
> HTH
>
> Lew
Actually, the 2-1/4 HP Milwaukee would do a good job in a table.
EXCEPT when swinging big horizontal panel bits.
Then again, I quite like the vertical panel bits.
I always felt that a big fat horizontal panel bit belongs in a shaper,
not a router.... of any size.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-BodyGrip/dp/B000QV35AK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1252610853&sr=1-1
>
> Even if all you do is use it as a paper weight, at that price it is a
> winner.
>
> Lew
>
>
I believe you. I have a question now about its variable speed bigger cousin
(Milwaukee 5616-24, 2 1/4 hp), is the speed controlled in a way that would
be useful in a router table, or is it trigger controlled" like on a variable
speed drill? I should probably get the first one, I just want to avoid a
coulda-woulda-shoulda...
Thanks,
Bill
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sep 10, 7:48 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Actually, the 2-1/4 HP Milwaukee would do a good job in a table.
>> EXCEPT when swinging big horizontal panel bits.
>> Then again, I quite like the vertical panel bits.
>> I always felt that a big fat horizontal panel bit belongs in a shaper,
>> not a router.... of any size.
>
> AMEN, brother! Can I get a witness??
>
> I couldn't agree more with what he said. Those 3" bits are too damn
> scary to put in a router, and I don't believe that routers were ever
> made specifically to spin those, no matter what model, make, HP or
> anything else they have. Just because you can, doesn't mean it is a
> good idea.
I run them at the absolute lowest speed in my Makita 3612C (9,000 RPM) and it's still scary.
> My life with panel cuts became a very calm place when I found the
> cousins to this bit several years ago and hooked it up to my 3hp
> DeWalt:
>
> http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/infvertpnlbitrvu.html
>
> These bits work like a champ, and I am not worried one bit about the
> lateral stresses on my router ruining bearings compared to those
> winged devils.
The trouble is, with those bits you can't cut profiles in arched panel doors...
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Robatoy wrote:
> On Sep 11, 3:27 pm, Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
>> The trouble is, with those bits you can't cut profiles in arched panel doors...
>>
> People still make those? *smirk*
Really incredibly *cool* people do, yeah. :-)
--
Repeat after me:
"I am we Todd it. I am sofa king we Todd it."
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 10 Sep 2009 15:32:32 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-5615-24-1-75-Horsepower-Multi-Base-BodyGrip/dp/B000QV35AK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1252610853&sr=1-1
>>
>>Bill
Thank you for anwering my question and sharing your thoughts! Ya'll keep me
thinking.
Bill
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9c6bddb8-f9f1-4261-bf5d-bcf01619a0a4@y42g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
I have a tall fence that slides on my normal fence and I adjust it to
take small bites.
I do not have a router-lifter... so raising the bit is a PITA.
Of course, now I would take a different approach with a specialty
insert bit for the CNC.
Ordering doors is soooo much easier.
Yeah but I like making doors. It is therapeutic for me, working in the shop
with out too many details to consider.
"Bill" wrote:
> I believe you. I have a question now about its variable speed
> bigger cousin (Milwaukee 5616-24, 2 1/4 hp), is the speed controlled
> in a way that would be useful in a router table, or is it trigger
> controlled" like on a variable speed drill? I should probably get
> the first one, I just want to avoid a coulda-woulda-shoulda...
IMHO, 2-1/4 HP is not an optimum choice for a table router.
The 5625 would be a better choice.
You want the biggest baddest router you can afford in a table.
Also, you need to be able to set max RPM at 10,000 max for use with
bits above 1" in diameter.
Trying to swing a large panel bit above 10,000 RPM is not only scary,
it is down right dangerous as well as exceeding bit manufacturer's max
RPM spec.
Being able to set RPM to match cutter is a big plus for a table
router.
If I were in the market, I buy two(2) kits for less than $210 and
leave one with a fixed base and the other with the plunge base on a
permanent basis.
Saves a lot of hassle.
The table router comes later.
HTH
Lew
"Robatoy" wrote:
-------------------------------------------
Actually, the 2-1/4 HP Milwaukee would do a good job in a table.
EXCEPT when swinging big horizontal panel bits.
--------------------------------------------------
I approach a router/table package in facilities planning mode.
IOW, what is the Maximum capacity that may be req'd.
Using those big panel bits is out right scary, but sometimes it is the
only choice, thus the recommendation to have a table/router package
engineered to do the biggest job.
Lew