First of all I did searches of this group and red all the posts I could
find. Many others have said these things look very similiar - see
below
HF Girz
Motor 2 hp 110V, 14 amp 2 hp 220V, 12 amp
Bags 30 micron 2.5 micron
CFM 1600 1550
Shp Wt 145 123
Inlet 6" or 2 ea 4" 2 ea 4"
RPM ? 3450
price 150 295
impeller ? 12"
The HP and CFM ratings are both probably very inflated. The weight
difference could be accounted by 110 vs 220 V motors - anybody know?
I want to put a home made barrel chip collector in line using 6" pipe.
Some have said when the Y is removed from the HF unit-is there a 5 or
6" opening. I doubt if one would be able to open up the HF plate to
6". Any thoughts.
By the way - these things look like they came out of the same factory -
anybody seen them both in the flesh. Really interested in the 5 vs 6"
inlet.
thanks
I have the HF. When the Y is removed, the opening is 5" not 6". I am
really happy with this unit. I can also tell you that my unit came
shipped with a massive 20amp motor. It is clearly marked 20 amps, not
14. I'm not sure why that happened, I'm pretty sure the unit is
typically made with a 14 amp motor as you've indicated. Nonetheless,
my unit (particularly with that motor) has some impressive suction. It
has functioned very well since I purchased it. I have not upgraded the
bags because my unit sits in a remote room, but others have strongly
suggested the upgrade on the bags. Like you I keep meaning to add an
in-line separator, but haven't done it yet. GOod luck
butch wrote:
> First of all I did searches of this group and red all the posts I
could
> find. Many others have said these things look very similiar - see
> below
> HF Girz
> Motor 2 hp 110V, 14 amp 2 hp 220V, 12 amp
> Bags 30 micron 2.5 micron
> CFM 1600 1550
> Shp Wt 145 123
> Inlet 6" or 2 ea 4" 2 ea 4"
> RPM ? 3450
> price 150 295
> impeller ? 12"
>
> The HP and CFM ratings are both probably very inflated. The weight
> difference could be accounted by 110 vs 220 V motors - anybody know?
>
> I want to put a home made barrel chip collector in line using 6"
pipe.
> Some have said when the Y is removed from the HF unit-is there a 5 or
> 6" opening. I doubt if one would be able to open up the HF plate to
> 6". Any thoughts.
>
> By the way - these things look like they came out of the same factory
-
> anybody seen them both in the flesh. Really interested in the 5 vs
6"
> inlet.
>
> thanks
As was indicated earlier the hidden inlet is 5". It would be possible
to enlarge the inlet, and I believe there is a web page talking about
someone doing it.
A photo of the impeller is here:
http://alan.firebin.net/images/hf_dust_impellar.jpg
This past weekend I ran the collector extensively with a power monitor
hooked up to it.
Max amps I could draw was 8.45 unless it was starting up, which can hit
16+ for an instant. With 20' of flexible hose, the amps barely
increase.
In comparison I have a grizzley 2hp motor on my Jet CS saw. While
cutting 45 degree bevels in plywood for french cleats I observed amp
usage in the 16's nominally, and over 20 just before stall out.
Also running the collector for 90 minutes used about .7 kwH. Which
around here is about $.04. So one could use it connected to a dust
filter without going broke.
There is room in the impellar housing for a larger impellar, and
looking at Jet's parts diagrams they are not terrible expensive.
I upgraded mine with the Wein cartridge.
Alan
Today I picked up a delta step reducer so I could connect my 2.5" shop
vac hose to the dust collector since my ancient shop vac died last
week.
With 20 feet of 5" flex hose and 10' for 2.5" flex hose, the HF has
more suction than the shop vac did, is quiter, and has a much larger
bag ..)
SO now I can reach all over the shop and actually stand to have a
vacumn running without my hearing protectors on.
Alan
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:oh%[email protected]...
> so the even weaker HF would have to be nearly useless.
>
I have the HF dust collector, it exceeded my expectations!
It is a very good unit for the money.
Greg
"butch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> First of all I did searches of this group and red all the posts I could
> find. Many others have said these things look very similiar
IMHO the Grizz 1-1/2 HP collector, (G1028Z), is probably a better
comparison to the HF 2 HP collector, (45378). Both have 120 volt motors. The
Grizz is a 1-1/2 HP motor where I believe HF is really a 1-1/2 HP motor that
is over rated.
Greg
On 13 Mar 2005 09:14:32 -0800, "butch" <[email protected]> wrote:
>First of all I did searches of this group and red all the posts I could
>find. Many others have said these things look very similiar - see
>below
> HF Girz
>Motor 2 hp 110V, 14 amp 2 hp 220V, 12 amp
>Bags 30 micron 2.5 micron
>CFM 1600 1550
>Shp Wt 145 123
>Inlet 6" or 2 ea 4" 2 ea 4"
>RPM ? 3450
>price 150 295
>impeller ? 12"
>
>The HP and CFM ratings are both probably very inflated. The weight
>difference could be accounted by 110 vs 220 V motors - anybody know?
>
>I want to put a home made barrel chip collector in line using 6" pipe.
>Some have said when the Y is removed from the HF unit-is there a 5 or
>6" opening. I doubt if one would be able to open up the HF plate to
>6". Any thoughts.
>
>By the way - these things look like they came out of the same factory -
>anybody seen them both in the flesh. Really interested in the 5 vs 6"
>inlet.
>
>thanks
=====================
I have had my Griz (1029) for about 12-15 years and I know thye have
made changes...
BUT that 2 Hp 220 v motor is a BIG HEAVY SUCKER and I am not kidding..
I removed the "Y" fitting years ago and used a rubber reducer to bring
the outlet down to 4 inches since I use 4 in PVC pipe... But to be
honest I seem to think the outlet was 5 inches not really sure...and
even if I was sure it is an older machine and things change...
Impeller size is more important then HP ratings imho ...
Gut feeling is go with the 220 V unit... While I am not in love with
my Griz It works, and has not given me a single Hint of a problem in
all these years...
I do have a trash can seperator hooked up now....and again being
honest I think it lowered the "suction" down by a good margin....but
it still does what I want ... just do not leave any 1"x1"by 3/4 "
cubes sitting on the top of the drill press table within 3-4 inches of
the DC hose when you open the blast gate... they will not be there
when you turn around....sucked right up and now are in the trash can
on the other side of the shop...
Bob Griffiths
blast gate...because they will be sucked up and in the trash can real
fast..
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 11:19:22 -0800, Tim Douglass <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:57:05 -0800, mac davis
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I like my HF DC a lot... I took off the "Y" and run 5" from the DC to the
>>cyclone, then have the "Y" on the other (inlet) side of the cyclone...
>>It didn't really make sense to me to build a cyclone and then have one line
>>using it and one not using it..
>
>If the one line only went to a sanding table or something like that I
>could see it, but not really worth doing.
I had it going to the belt/disk sander, until my wife had a piece of burl come
apart on her and a couple of pieces bounced off the impeller...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On 14 Mar 2005 13:48:59 -0800, "arw01" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Today I picked up a delta step reducer so I could connect my 2.5" shop
>vac hose to the dust collector since my ancient shop vac died last
>week.
>
>With 20 feet of 5" flex hose and 10' for 2.5" flex hose, the HF has
>more suction than the shop vac did, is quiter, and has a much larger
>bag ..)
>
>SO now I can reach all over the shop and actually stand to have a
>vacumn running without my hearing protectors on.
>
>Alan
I tried that and though the DC was happy, my plastic garbage can flattened
itself out when I went down to 2 1/2" hose...
I still use it for some floor stuff, but open the gate on the BS first so the
can doesn't collapse..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Not that recently. Had to think about; guessing its been five years. Its
possible they changed it, but what was strange was that the Grizzly ad at
the time mentioned the "hidden" opening was 5", so once I started setting up
and discovered it was six, I had to redesign (happily, in this case) the
system.
I used 26 ga HVAC ducting from a local hardware store (Ace Hardware
franchize), along with long radius elbows and Y fittings from Oneida Air. I
start with six inch, gradually reducing to 5 and then 4 inch along the
perimeter to try and maintain even pressure. The Borgs only carry 28 and 30
ga, don't use that crap. Get yourself a good sheet metal crimper ($10) and
a pop rivet gun, and you are in business. I sealed all the joints with
clear silicone. My blast gates are shop built, but I don't know if I'd go
through the trouble to do that again.
Joe
"butch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Joe:
> Did you get your DC recently? What did you use for pipes on your
> perimeter system. The white PVC drain pipes?
>
> THanks
>
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:57:05 -0800, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I like my HF DC a lot... I took off the "Y" and run 5" from the DC to the
>cyclone, then have the "Y" on the other (inlet) side of the cyclone...
>It didn't really make sense to me to build a cyclone and then have one line
>using it and one not using it..
If the one line only went to a sanding table or something like that I
could see it, but not really worth doing.
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
I have the Grizzley. The 2x4" inlet hides a six inch inlet, which is how I
have it installed in my perimeter system.
Works great and very well built. I replaced the standard bags (30 microns
at the time) with a 1 micron bag from American Fabric Filter.
Joe
"butch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> First of all I did searches of this group and red all the posts I could
> find. Many others have said these things look very similiar - see
> below
> HF Girz
> Motor 2 hp 110V, 14 amp 2 hp 220V, 12 amp
> Bags 30 micron 2.5 micron
> CFM 1600 1550
> Shp Wt 145 123
> Inlet 6" or 2 ea 4" 2 ea 4"
> RPM ? 3450
> price 150 295
> impeller ? 12"
>
> The HP and CFM ratings are both probably very inflated. The weight
> difference could be accounted by 110 vs 220 V motors - anybody know?
>
> I want to put a home made barrel chip collector in line using 6" pipe.
> Some have said when the Y is removed from the HF unit-is there a 5 or
> 6" opening. I doubt if one would be able to open up the HF plate to
> 6". Any thoughts.
>
> By the way - these things look like they came out of the same factory -
> anybody seen them both in the flesh. Really interested in the 5 vs 6"
> inlet.
>
> thanks
>
On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:18:06 -0500, Bob G. <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have had my Griz (1029) for about 12-15 years and I know thye have
>made changes...
>
>BUT that 2 Hp 220 v motor is a BIG HEAVY SUCKER and I am not kidding..
>I removed the "Y" fitting years ago and used a rubber reducer to bring
>the outlet down to 4 inches since I use 4 in PVC pipe... But to be
>honest I seem to think the outlet was 5 inches not really sure...and
>even if I was sure it is an older machine and things change...
>
>Impeller size is more important then HP ratings imho ...
>
>Gut feeling is go with the 220 V unit... While I am not in love with
>my Griz It works, and has not given me a single Hint of a problem in
>all these years...
>
>I do have a trash can seperator hooked up now....and again being
>honest I think it lowered the "suction" down by a good margin....but
>it still does what I want ... just do not leave any 1"x1"by 3/4 "
>cubes sitting on the top of the drill press table within 3-4 inches of
>the DC hose when you open the blast gate... they will not be there
>when you turn around....sucked right up and now are in the trash can
>on the other side of the shop...
>
>Bob Griffiths
>blast gate...because they will be sucked up and in the trash can real
>fast..
>
and without that trash can, those cubes would be playing meteor shower on your
impeller.. *g*
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Yeh, the weight difference is the 220v motor. Those extra 110v are pretty
heavy. (most induction motors can be wired either 120v or 240v, so there is
no difference in weight; but you were just kidding anyhow, no?)
If one is 14a-110v and the other is 12a-220v, then the second is is 70% more
powerful than the first. That probably accounts for the price difference
(as well as the better bag), and maybe the weight difference as well.
My DC is 6a-240v and it is underpowered, so the even weaker HF would have to
be nearly useless.
On 13 Mar 2005 09:14:32 -0800, "butch" <[email protected]> wrote:
>First of all I did searches of this group and red all the posts I could
>find. Many others have said these things look very similiar - see
>below
> HF Girz
>Motor 2 hp 110V, 14 amp 2 hp 220V, 12 amp
>Bags 30 micron 2.5 micron
>CFM 1600 1550
>Shp Wt 145 123
>Inlet 6" or 2 ea 4" 2 ea 4"
>RPM ? 3450
>price 150 295
>impeller ? 12"
>
>The HP and CFM ratings are both probably very inflated. The weight
>difference could be accounted by 110 vs 220 V motors - anybody know?
>
>I want to put a home made barrel chip collector in line using 6" pipe.
>Some have said when the Y is removed from the HF unit-is there a 5 or
>6" opening. I doubt if one would be able to open up the HF plate to
>6". Any thoughts.
>
>By the way - these things look like they came out of the same factory -
>anybody seen them both in the flesh. Really interested in the 5 vs 6"
>inlet.
>
>thanks
I guess budget and availability of 220v would be my considerations..
I like my HF DC a lot... I took off the "Y" and run 5" from the DC to the
cyclone, then have the "Y" on the other (inlet) side of the cyclone...
It didn't really make sense to me to build a cyclone and then have one line
using it and one not using it..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing