"Larry C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a terrible
> job with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the initial
> cuts.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
I use this blade:
http://tinyurl.com/y9yssn6
on a Milwaukee 6390-21
http://tinyurl.com/y8dr249
"good" side down, and I use a 9' straight edge as a guide.
Max
"Larry C" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a
> terrible job with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
> initial cuts.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
>
>
I bought an Irwin Marathon blade at my grandpa's suggestion, and it's yet
to come off the circular saw. It's a standard blade (I don't remember
the number of teeth for 7 1/4" blades), not a plywood blade, but if you
take it easy it cuts through plywood with a minimal amount of tearout.
Last plywood I cut with it was sheathing grade 1/2" stuff, though. You
may have problems with better quality plywood.
Not bad for a $8 blade.
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:1b619c7f-a64b-4884-
>> [email protected]:
>>>
>>
>> The blade makes contact with the good side first.
>
>
> Actually the blade makes contact with the top side first. You however
> want the good side down.
>
You're right (of course). I might have over simplified things.
In the middle of a cut, for any given tooth, the good side is the one
that the cutting edge of the tooth comes in to contact with first.
I think this is general enough and correct enough to work for any saw.
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> wrote in news:1b619c7f-a64b-4884-
[email protected]:
*snip*
>
> I bought a "plywood" blade from Lowes, found it less than perfect and
> took it back for a refund. Bought a thin kerf carbide blade and had
> better results. Also, there is something about which side is "up"
> that is different (as I recall) when using a "Skill" saw vs a table
> saw. I believe the god side is to be down with the former.
>
> Google "Cutting Plywood" don't take my word for it! :)
>
The blade makes contact with the good side first.
(Of course, you'll want to take more protections to protect the "god
side.")
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
TWO WORDS:
Masking Tape
Some more words . . .
Good quality, thin kerf, carbide blade with as many teeth as you can
find.
I bought a "plywood" blade from Lowes, found it less than perfect and
took it back for a refund. Bought a thin kerf carbide blade and had
better results. Also, there is something about which side is "up"
that is different (as I recall) when using a "Skill" saw vs a table
saw. I believe the god side is to be down with the former.
Google "Cutting Plywood" don't take my word for it! :)
Larry C wrote:
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a
> terrible job with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
> initial cuts.
Your biggest problem will be with crosscuts, any decent blade should rip
well. For crosscuts, you could...
1. Use a blade with many tiny teeth. Expensive if carbide, cheap if steel
and steel works well for a while.
2. Apply backer to tearout side. Even masking tape helps.
3. Moisten the wood.
4. Score the wood on tearout side with a knife. Hard to do with a hand held
saw. Scoring can also be done by making a very shallow first cut then
cutting through.
5. Cut a bit oversize and trim with a router.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Martin H. Eastburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use a Skill Worm drive with diamond hole blades.
>
> The whole trick I think is a thin tooth and sharp. I use carbide.
> Carbide stands up better than standard steel.
> Martin
I have an older B&D worm drive. I forget what blade is on it now, carbide
tip (probably 40 tooth). For good plywood cuts, I do 2 things... clamp on
a guide board and (with the good side down) put a sacrificial board under
the cut (for the whole length of the cut.)
Ed
>
> Larry C wrote:
>>
>> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Larry C wrote:
>>>>
>>>> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> Larry C wrote:
>>>>>> Hello
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
>>>>>> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a
>>>>>> terrible job with tearout.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
>>>>>> initial cuts.
>>>>>
>>>>> You talking a handheld or contractor/table saw?
>>>>>
>>>>> I've had good luck w/ good quality plywood blades; don't understand
>>>>> there being much of a problem unless it was just an inexpensive one or
>>>>> some other alignment problem.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>
>>>> It is a circular saw
>>>
>>> gosh, don't overwhelm us w/ verbiage...
>>>
>>> What _specific_ blade (manufacturer, no teeth, grind, etc., etc., ...)
>>>
>>> I'll take the "circular saw" as skilsaw, not contractors; they all are
>>> "circular".
>>>
>>> What particular saw and are you sure the blade is perpendicular to the
>>> shoe plate and are you using a guide or freehanding the cuts? Have you
>>> checked the blade is parallel to the edge of the base plate if using the
>>> straightedge? If it isn't, it's just like the fence on a tablesaw not
>>> being parallel to the blade; it causes the work to run at an angle
>>> against the blade which will cause teeth to drag on one edge or the
>>> other preferentially depending on which way the bias is.
>>>
>>> --
>>
>> I was trying to do about ten things when I was tanking about this
>> question and I just replied.
>>
>> I use a Milwaukee Skill saw and the blade is a 140 tooth. I use a
>> straight edge as a guide.
>>
>> I will read the link that someone posted and see if that helps
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Larry C
>>
>>
I use a Skill Worm drive with diamond hole blades.
The whole trick I think is a thin tooth and sharp. I use carbide.
Carbide stands up better than standard steel.
Martin
Larry C wrote:
>
> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Larry C wrote:
>>>
>>> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> Larry C wrote:
>>>>> Hello
>>>>>
>>>>> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
>>>>> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a
>>>>> terrible job with tearout.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
>>>>> initial cuts.
>>>>
>>>> You talking a handheld or contractor/table saw?
>>>>
>>>> I've had good luck w/ good quality plywood blades; don't understand
>>>> there being much of a problem unless it was just an inexpensive one
>>>> or some other alignment problem.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>
>>> It is a circular saw
>>
>> gosh, don't overwhelm us w/ verbiage...
>>
>> What _specific_ blade (manufacturer, no teeth, grind, etc., etc., ...)
>>
>> I'll take the "circular saw" as skilsaw, not contractors; they all are
>> "circular".
>>
>> What particular saw and are you sure the blade is perpendicular to the
>> shoe plate and are you using a guide or freehanding the cuts? Have
>> you checked the blade is parallel to the edge of the base plate if
>> using the straightedge? If it isn't, it's just like the fence on a
>> tablesaw not being parallel to the blade; it causes the work to run at
>> an angle against the blade which will cause teeth to drag on one edge
>> or the other preferentially depending on which way the bias is.
>>
>> --
>
> I was trying to do about ten things when I was tanking about this
> question and I just replied.
>
> I use a Milwaukee Skill saw and the blade is a 140 tooth. I use a
> straight edge as a guide.
>
> I will read the link that someone posted and see if that helps
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
>
>
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> wrote in news:1b619c7f-a64b-4884-
> [email protected]:
>>
>
> The blade makes contact with the good side first.
Actually the blade makes contact with the top side first. You however want
the good side down.
On Sep 30, 6:11=A0pm, "Larry C" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a terrible =
job
> with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the initia=
l
> cuts.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
Larry,
Add a 1/4" piece of wood to the bottom of your circular saw. Run your
saw blade through it to make a zero clearance plate.
Ted
"Larry C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a terrible
> job with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the initial
> cuts.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
>
>
This url will take you to a google books extract, which has some information
on cutting ply with a circular saw and ways to minimise tearout.
Scroll down past the two pics to get to the explanatory text.
Hope this helps
http://tinyurl.com/y8hruqj
Larry C wrote:
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a
> terrible job with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
> initial cuts.
>
> Thanks
>
As a last resort, you can clamp some sacrificial wood to both sides of your
stock.
Larry C wrote:
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a terrible
> job with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
> initial cuts.
You talking a handheld or contractor/table saw?
I've had good luck w/ good quality plywood blades; don't understand
there being much of a problem unless it was just an inexpensive one or
some other alignment problem.
--
Larry C wrote:
>
> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Larry C wrote:
>>> Hello
>>>
>>> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
>>> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a
>>> terrible job with tearout.
>>>
>>> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
>>> initial cuts.
>>
>> You talking a handheld or contractor/table saw?
>>
>> I've had good luck w/ good quality plywood blades; don't understand
>> there being much of a problem unless it was just an inexpensive one or
>> some other alignment problem.
>>
>> --
>
> It is a circular saw
gosh, don't overwhelm us w/ verbiage...
What _specific_ blade (manufacturer, no teeth, grind, etc., etc., ...)
I'll take the "circular saw" as skilsaw, not contractors; they all are
"circular".
What particular saw and are you sure the blade is perpendicular to the
shoe plate and are you using a guide or freehanding the cuts? Have you
checked the blade is parallel to the edge of the base plate if using the
straightedge? If it isn't, it's just like the fence on a tablesaw not
being parallel to the blade; it causes the work to run at an angle
against the blade which will cause teeth to drag on one edge or the
other preferentially depending on which way the bias is.
--
Hoosierpopi wrote:
...
> ... Also, there is something about which side is "up"
> that is different (as I recall) when using a "Skill" saw vs a table
> saw. I believe the go[o]d side is to be down with the former.
...
Yes, the cutting teeth edge enter from the bottom for the skilsaw while
from the top on a table saw. Hence, there tends to be less tearout when
oriented as stated although a quality, sharp blade should leave minimal
either way...but as noted much earlier in the thread (before OP
departed, in fact :) ) it was noted an alignment of the blade can cause
problems if the trailing drag the cut edge on exit they can wreak havoc
(as well as can the cutting teeth on exit, particularly that's where
dull or poor set or choice of type of blade will cause problems).
--
"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Larry C wrote:
>>
>> "dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Larry C wrote:
>>>> Hello
>>>>
>>>> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
>>>> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a
>>>> terrible job with tearout.
>>>>
>>>> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
>>>> initial cuts.
>>>
>>> You talking a handheld or contractor/table saw?
>>>
>>> I've had good luck w/ good quality plywood blades; don't understand
>>> there being much of a problem unless it was just an inexpensive one or
>>> some other alignment problem.
>>>
>>> --
>>
>> It is a circular saw
>
> gosh, don't overwhelm us w/ verbiage...
>
> What _specific_ blade (manufacturer, no teeth, grind, etc., etc., ...)
>
> I'll take the "circular saw" as skilsaw, not contractors; they all are
> "circular".
>
> What particular saw and are you sure the blade is perpendicular to the
> shoe plate and are you using a guide or freehanding the cuts? Have you
> checked the blade is parallel to the edge of the base plate if using the
> straightedge? If it isn't, it's just like the fence on a tablesaw not
> being parallel to the blade; it causes the work to run at an angle against
> the blade which will cause teeth to drag on one edge or the other
> preferentially depending on which way the bias is.
>
> --
I was trying to do about ten things when I was tanking about this question
and I just replied.
I use a Milwaukee Skill saw and the blade is a 140 tooth. I use a straight
edge as a guide.
I will read the link that someone posted and see if that helps
Thanks
Larry C
>What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
I've been using an Oldham "Ultra Finishing/Plywood/OSB Industrial
Carbide" blade in a cheap Black and Decker hand-held circular saw.
7-1/4", 60 tooth blade.
Makes CLEAN, FINE cuts on the 3/4" expensive cherry-faced plywood I've
used.
I put the "good side" down, and use a clamped-on fence to guide the
hand-held saw.
Works like a charm for me.
-Zz
"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hoosierpopi wrote:
> ...
>> ... Also, there is something about which side is "up"
>> that is different (as I recall) when using a "Skill" saw vs a table
>> saw. I believe the go[o]d side is to be down with the former.
> ...
>
> Yes, the cutting teeth edge enter from the bottom for the skilsaw while
> from the top on a table saw. Hence, there tends to be less tearout when
> oriented as stated although a quality, sharp blade should leave minimal
> either way...but as noted much earlier in the thread (before OP departed,
> in fact :) ) it was noted an alignment of the blade can cause problems if
> the trailing drag the cut edge on exit they can wreak havoc (as well as
> can the cutting teeth on exit, particularly that's where dull or poor set
> or choice of type of blade will cause problems).
>
> --
Guys
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I think my issue is most likely my
blade.
Sorry about the initial post being somewhat vague. A little spun in circles
these days.
Plus I forgot that Verizon was dumping news groups and sign up to service to
reply to this thread.
Larry C
"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Larry C wrote:
>> Hello
>>
>> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
>> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a terrible
>> job with tearout.
>>
>> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the
>> initial cuts.
>
> You talking a handheld or contractor/table saw?
>
> I've had good luck w/ good quality plywood blades; don't understand there
> being much of a problem unless it was just an inexpensive one or some
> other alignment problem.
>
> --
It is a circular saw
"Larry C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello
>
> What do you guys use for a plywood blade in your circular saw?
> I bought a plywood blade to cut some birch plywood and it did a terrible
> job with tearout.
>
> I have a bunch of bookcases to make so I would like to improve the initial
> cuts.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
>
>
Here is what you need
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/ts-55-eq-plunge-cut-circular-saw-561174.html