"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article
> <a3b27bf6-c9a8-4e2e-86c1-64862037d175@g23g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>
>>re: > >C. Use a lathe
>>>
>>> Neither will that.
>>
>>Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
>>at the correct times. <g>
>
> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offset. I
thought that was obvious but apaerently not.
"Morris Dovey" wrote:
> Heh - this is getting pretty messy. :)
>
> A while back I needed four 3" radius corner pieces and I routed 'em
> from a 2x4, which gave me a nice quarter round without the 90°
> corner.
Last time I needed a 3" quarter round for a mold, got a plywood
quarter round from Anderson International here in town.
They are on the web.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Which is how the Sears Router-Crafter operates.
>
> BTW, no need for bandsaw.
>
> Lew
Knew it!!! Too late for a patent, right?
I don't think it is even sold any more, at least new, maybe used on
eBay.
Lew
"RicodJour" wrote:
-----------------------------------
The center of rotation has to be centered on the lathe, but that
doesn't mean the workpiece has to have its center centered. There are
a number of ways to accomplish that as well.
------------------------------------
Be nice.
Using some basic engineering to make your point may be taking unfair
advantage of the situation<G>.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote:
> This is how I would try - caveat emptor!
>
>
> First, drill a hole in the exact center of the 3x3 at both ends.
> Scribe a circle around the center, and remove as much waste as you
> can
> with the bandsaw. Build a support so that the wood sits like a
> barbecue spit, suspended from the centers. Mount over a router
> table,
> take very fine passes, spinning the wood....
Which is how the Sears Router-Crafter operates.
BTW, no need for bandsaw.
Lew
Aaron Fude wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>
> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
> 2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x
> profile.
> I have a table saw and a band saw.
Get a 3" piece of PVC and cut it in half lenghwise. Duct tape it to your
stock.
Feed the whole shebang through your table saw with the PVC against the
fence. Rotate the stock slightly and do it again. And again. etc.
Ultimately you'll have a 3" half-round. Cut in half.
I have no idea whether this will work.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>Hi,
>
>I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>
>1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profile.
>
>I have a table saw and a band saw.
>
Are you making some large 'trim' and don't need a specific profile? Because
you can make 3" cove molding OK, but not quarter round. Look up the methods
for making a cove cut with a table saw, basically you run the stock over the
blade at an angle. You could cove each side of the 3x3 stock then quarter it
on the bandsaw. I've done it on my radial arm saw and it works quite nicely.
--
Dennis
On Oct 3, 8:54=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Doug Miller wrote:
> >>> In article
> >>> <[email protected]>,
> >>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >>>> Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? <g>
>
> >>> You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to
> >>> mount it at
> >>> a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy,
> >>> but that
> >>> would leave a radius of less than 3".
>
> >> Afix 3"x6" or thereabouts boards to ends of 3x3. =A0Mount on lathe at
> >> board centers.
>
> > And make sure you're not standing in front of it when you turn the
> > lathe on, 'cause it's coming off.
>
> Your cup is always half empty, isn't it?
I think the cup has a crack in it. ;)
> The lathe could be run *very* slowly or - as explained by others -
> counterweighted. =A0It need not be run at all if one mounted a router so =
it
> could be slid along the length of the stock, the stock being rotated
> manually after each pass. =A0And - anticipating your next objection - yes=
, the
> stock would need to be held rigidly while routing.
In most ways the router would be the safest and provide the smoothest
result without handwork. The OP mentioned a tablesaw and bandsaw, and
that's what people limited their replies to. It would seem odd to me
if the OP had those tools and not a router.
R
On Oct 2, 12:59=A0pm, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 2, 12:18=A0am, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Oct 1, 10:47=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> > > =A0"CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > >"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > > >> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that=
between
> > > >> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
>
> > > >Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct o=
ffset. I
> > > >thought that was obvious but apparently not.
>
> > > The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those b=
locks in
> > > a heartbeat.
>
> > Is there some rule that only the workpiece can be mounted between the
> > blocks? =A0It's possible to add some deadwood/weight to counterbalance
> > the workpiece, no?
>
> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJni6Qnth844
> > There's nothing to prevent using the concepts of that fack-tree made
> > eccentric chuck and making your own. =A0The counterweights can be
> > attached to the end mounting blocks, they don't have to be full
> > length.
>
> > Howza bout gluing four blanks together and turning four quarter rounds
> > at one time? =A0That doesn't sound impossible, is it?
>
> > Let's keep the bar set for the word impossible at its original "not
> > possible" setting. =A0It makes communication easier.
>
>
> ...and all I was trying to do was to add a little humor to the
> thread...
I know. And all I was trying to do was to point out "impossible"
isn't in this situation...well, that and have a little fun poking
fun. ;)
R
On Oct 1, 4:36=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
> >tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
> >3" radius.
>
> Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To =
get a
> 3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the l=
athe
> centers right at one of the corners.
It is not impossible. Like Derby said, you just have to synchronize
the in and out feed with the rotation. Effecting this is left as an
exercise for the reader.
I wonder if the OP has a router...
R
In article <[email protected]>,
Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
> The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those
> blocks in a heartbeat.
Just stick 4 of them together to make a 6x6 block and turn that, then
separate
Easy-peasy, nothing out of balance, you produce four at a time and all
exactly the same radius.
In article <[email protected]>,
Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
> Looks like something isn't right with the clock on your system. Your
> posts are coming in with a time stamp of an hour older than when you
> posted them.
Possibly. I seem to recall this happening once before when we had the
clock change but I can't remember what the fix was.
The clock on screen is displaying the time correctly.
In article <[email protected]>,
Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well in that case it was a Windows machine exhibiting a bug in its
> handling of the automatic adjustment for daylight savings time. It
> doesn't look like you're running Windows to me, so it's probably a
> different issue.
Correct :-)
Totally different hardware and Operating system, what I think today would
be described as a "minority platform".
And hopefully it's now sorted
On Oct 2, 12:18=A0am, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 1, 10:47=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>
> > =A0"CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > >> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that b=
etween
> > >> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
>
> > >Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct off=
set. I
> > >thought that was obvious but apparently not.
>
> > The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those blo=
cks in
> > a heartbeat.
>
> Is there some rule that only the workpiece can be mounted between the
> blocks? =A0It's possible to add some deadwood/weight to counterbalance
> the workpiece, no?
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJni6Qnth844
> There's nothing to prevent using the concepts of that fack-tree made
> eccentric chuck and making your own. =A0The counterweights can be
> attached to the end mounting blocks, they don't have to be full
> length.
>
> Howza bout gluing four blanks together and turning four quarter rounds
> at one time? =A0That doesn't sound impossible, is it?
>
> Let's keep the bar set for the word impossible at its original "not
> possible" setting. =A0It makes communication easier.
>
> R
...and all I was trying to do was to add a little humor to the
thread...
Elrond Hubbard wrote:
> "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in news:0K-
> [email protected]:
>
> <snip of unadulderated speculative BS)
>
>>
>> I have no idea whether this will work.
>>
>
> It will work quite well if you are hoping to make a visit to the
> emergency room with a PVC/wood stake through your liver.
>
> Yet, again, your screamingly obvious absence of good sense or
> experience fails to prevent you from posting.
Heh! I bet you've never made a circular cut out on a table saw.
And I have a great deal of common sense; I figured out, on my own, that one
should not drink the pickle juice until all the pickles are gone. This
prevents being hit in the eye by a pickle. (Except for pickle slices of
course. No hazard there.)
Bet you didn't know that!
This is how I would try - caveat emptor!
First, drill a hole in the exact center of the 3x3 at both ends.
Scribe a circle around the center, and remove as much waste as you can
with the bandsaw. Build a support so that the wood sits like a
barbecue spit, suspended from the centers. Mount over a router table,
take very fine passes, spinning the wood....
shelly
On Sep 30, 9:03=A0pm, Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>
> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
> 2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profi=
le.
>
> I have a table saw and a band saw.
Triangular cut - flop TS to 45, cut through one corner about 1/4" less
than halfway through (assuming normal size TS), insert tight-fitting
shim into saw kerf and tape across kerf in several places to hold
pieces together for safety while you complete the cut, flip stock over
and cut from opposite corner, again just short of halfway, complete
cut with a handsaw and cleanup with a hand plane.
Quarter round - mark desired profile on end grain of stock, make a cut
with the saw blade height just shy of the drawn profile mark (marked
curve is facing concave side up), move fence ~1/4" and adjust blade
height to just short of the line, make cut, repeat process. The trick
is to make the repeated cuts on two sides and try to leave the largest
square possible in the area to be wasted. Use the shim/tape to
stabilize the kerf(s) as necessary for safety. There are variations
on this technique, and safety is paramount, so plan out your cuts
before you have an unexpected one.
R
On Oct 1, 10:47=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that bet=
ween
> >> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
>
> >Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offse=
t. I
> >thought that was obvious but apparently not.
>
> The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those block=
s in
> a heartbeat.
Is there some rule that only the workpiece can be mounted between the
blocks? It's possible to add some deadwood/weight to counterbalance
the workpiece, no?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJni6Qnth844
There's nothing to prevent using the concepts of that fack-tree made
eccentric chuck and making your own. The counterweights can be
attached to the end mounting blocks, they don't have to be full
length.
Howza bout gluing four blanks together and turning four quarter rounds
at one time? That doesn't sound impossible, is it?
Let's keep the bar set for the word impossible at its original "not
possible" setting. It makes communication easier.
R
Aaron Fude wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>
> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round
C. Use a lathe
_________________
> 2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x
> profile.
A. Tilt bandsaw table
B. (better IMO) Make an auxiliary table with a cradle of two pieces mounted
at 90 degrees to each other and 45 degrees to the table, use on either
bandsaw or table saw. On table saw, cut in two passes; i.e., depth at 1
1/2" or less, cut once, flip vertically, cut again.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Aaron Fude wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>>>
>>> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>>
>> A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
>> http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
>
> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
> quarter-round.
Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of wood 3/4
x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round. Seems to me that a
1 1/2" radius bit appled to a piece of 3x3 would yield a 3" quarter round.
No?
___________
>> B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round
>
> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.
Whoops, see below...
______________
>> C. Use a lathe
>
> Neither will that.
Will too. He just has to glue up four pieces of 3x3 before turning :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Doug Miller wrote:
>>> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Aaron Fude wrote:
>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>
>>>>> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>>>>
>>>> A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
>>>> http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
>>>
>>> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
>>> quarter-round.
>>
>> Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of
>> wood 3/4 x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round.
>
> No, you don't.
Right. I'm going to stop reading groups early in the AM.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote in news:0K-
[email protected]:
<snip of unadulderated speculative BS)
>
> I have no idea whether this will work.
>
It will work quite well if you are hoping to make a visit to the emergency
room with a PVC/wood stake through your liver.
Yet, again, your screamingly obvious absence of good sense or experience
fails to prevent you from posting.
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Doug Miller wrote:
>>> In article
>>> <[email protected]>,
>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>> Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? <g>
>>>
>>> You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to
>>> mount it at
>>> a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy,
>>> but that
>>> would leave a radius of less than 3".
>>
>> Afix 3"x6" or thereabouts boards to ends of 3x3. Mount on lathe at
>> board centers.
>>
> And make sure you're not standing in front of it when you turn the
> lathe on, 'cause it's coming off.
Your cup is always half empty, isn't it?
The lathe could be run *very* slowly or - as explained by others -
counterweighted. It need not be run at all if one mounted a router so it
could be slid along the length of the stock, the stock being rotated
manually after each pass. And - anticipating your next objection - yes, the
stock would need to be held rigidly while routing.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH" <dad...@inva=
lid.com> wrote:
> >Aaron Fude wrote:
> >> Hi,
>
> >> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>
> >> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>
> >A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
> >http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
>
> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
> quarter-round.
>
>
>
> >B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round
>
> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.
>
>
>
> >C. Use a lathe
>
> Neither will that.
re: > >C. Use a lathe
>
> Neither will that.
Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
at the correct times. <g>
On Oct 1, 10:44=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected].=
com>, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Oct 1, 4:36=3DA0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> >> In article, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> >If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
> >> >tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
> >> >3" radius.
>
> >> Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. =
To get a
> >> 3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount th=
e lathe
> >> centers right at one of the corners.
>
> >It is not impossible.
>
> Yes, it is.
You're obviously in an argumentative mood.
Impossible means that it cannot be done.
This is not one of those situations.
> > Like Derby said, you just have to synchronize
> >the in and out feed with the rotation. =A0Effecting this is left as an
> >exercise for the reader.
>
> That's not sufficient. Go back and re-read what I wrote about where the l=
athe
> centers have to be.
Fine, I did, and there was nothing there that I missed the first time
around. You've made up your mind that something that isn't
impossible, is, and then you snapped your mind shut - case closed.
The center of rotation has to be centered on the lathe, but that
doesn't mean the workpiece has to have its center centered. There are
a number of ways to accomplish that as well.
R
On Oct 1, 4:36=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]=
.com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> >On Oct 1, 3:47=3DA0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> >> In article <[email protected]=
ups=3D
> >..com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> >On Oct 1, 8:08=3D3DA0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> >> >re: > >C. Use a lathe
>
> >> >> Neither will that.
>
> >> >Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
> >> >at the correct times. <g>
>
> >> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that bet=
ween
> >> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
>
> >Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.
>
> >If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
> >tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
> >3" radius.
>
> Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To =
get a
> 3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the l=
athe
> centers right at one of the corners.
Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? <g>
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why would
you
> even consider doing this on a table saw instead?
I have/had a long stored away moulding head for a tablesaw that would have
cut the quarter rounds that he's looking for. But, it's a scary tool and not
what I'd use if something else was available like a band saw to slice away
most of the corners of a quarter round.
On Oct 1, 3:47=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]=
.com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Oct 1, 8:08=3DA0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> >re: > >C. Use a lathe
>
> >> Neither will that.
>
> >Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
> >at the correct times. <g>
>
> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that betwee=
n
> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.
If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
3" radius.
This method is not for the faint of heart...or anyone with a brain. <g>
On Oct 1, 10:53=A0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >Triangular cut - flop TS to 45, cut through one corner about 1/4" less
> >than halfway through (assuming normal size TS), insert tight-fitting
> >shim into saw kerf and tape across kerf in several places to hold
> >pieces together for safety while you complete the cut, flip stock over
> >and cut from opposite corner, again just short of halfway, complete
> >cut with a handsaw and cleanup with a hand plane.
>
> Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why woul=
d you
> even consider doing this on a table saw instead?
Someone had already mentioned how to do the 45 with a bandsaw. Why
would I want to chime in with a "me, too!"?
> >Quarter round - mark desired profile on end grain of stock, make a cut
> >with the saw blade height just shy of the drawn profile mark (marked
> >curve is facing concave side up), move fence ~1/4" and adjust blade
> >height to just short of the line, make cut, repeat process. =A0The trick
> >is to make the repeated cuts on two sides and try to leave the largest
> >square possible in the area to be wasted. =A0Use the shim/tape to
> >stabilize the kerf(s) as necessary for safety. =A0There are variations
> >on this technique, and safety is paramount, so plan out your cuts
> >before you have an unexpected one.
>
> See above.
See above what? You left out the best part - where you said, "There
is no safe way to do this on the table saw." - referring to cutting
the quarter round. If you see above I described one safe way to do
it. There are others.
I would not choose which tools and method to use until I knew what the
lumber was and what the machines were like. I'm not assuming the OP
has a Unisaw or a Laguna bandsaw - he could have Craftsman hobbyist
machines. You are allowed to assume anything you'd like. That's only
fair.
R
On Nov 9, 11:41=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > This is how I would try - caveat emptor!
>
> > First, drill a hole in the exact center of the 3x3 at both ends.
> > Scribe a circle around the center, and remove as much waste as you
> > can
> > with the bandsaw. Build a support so that the wood sits like a
> > barbecue spit, suspended from the centers. Mount over a router
> > table,
> > take very fine passes, spinning the wood....
>
> Which is how the Sears Router-Crafter operates.
>
> BTW, no need for bandsaw.
>
> Lew
Knew it!!! Too late for a patent, right?
just thought the bandsaw would be easier
shelly
In article <[email protected]>, Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>
>1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profile.
>
>I have a table saw and a band saw.
If the table of your bandsaw can be tilted 45 degrees from the horizontal,
cutting the triangular profile is trivial.
Cutting a quarter-round profile cannot be done in a single operation, but you
can get there with a series of steps, using the bandsaw. Draw the profile you
want on the end of the board, then make straight cuts at various tilt angles
to approximate that profile. Finally, smooth it with hand tools such as a
plane, spokeshave, drawknife, or file (or a combination of those).
There is no safe way to do this on the table saw.
In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Aaron Fude wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>>
>> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>
>A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
>http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
quarter-round.
>
>B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round
That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.
>
>C. Use a lathe
Neither will that.
In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Aaron Fude wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>>>>
>>>> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>>>
>>> A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
>>> http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
>>
>> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
>> quarter-round.
>
>Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of wood 3/4
>x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round.
No, you don't.
> Seems to me that a
>1 1/2" radius bit appled to a piece of 3x3 would yield a 3" quarter round.
>No?
No.
In article <8ddc107b-d01a-4d78-b1c6-7c674f628b8b@d23g2000vbm.googlegroups.com>, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sep 30, 9:03=A0pm, Aaron Fude <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>>
>> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>> 2. Make a "diagonal" cut so that the lumber has a triangular 3"x3"x profi=
>le.
>>
>> I have a table saw and a band saw.
>
>Triangular cut - flop TS to 45, cut through one corner about 1/4" less
>than halfway through (assuming normal size TS), insert tight-fitting
>shim into saw kerf and tape across kerf in several places to hold
>pieces together for safety while you complete the cut, flip stock over
>and cut from opposite corner, again just short of halfway, complete
>cut with a handsaw and cleanup with a hand plane.
Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why would you
even consider doing this on a table saw instead?
>
>Quarter round - mark desired profile on end grain of stock, make a cut
>with the saw blade height just shy of the drawn profile mark (marked
>curve is facing concave side up), move fence ~1/4" and adjust blade
>height to just short of the line, make cut, repeat process. The trick
>is to make the repeated cuts on two sides and try to leave the largest
>square possible in the area to be wasted. Use the shim/tape to
>stabilize the kerf(s) as necessary for safety. There are variations
>on this technique, and safety is paramount, so plan out your cuts
>before you have an unexpected one.
See above.
dadiOH wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Aaron Fude wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> I have 3"x3" lumber and I would like to do one of two things:
>>>>
>>>> 1. Make a 3" quarter round, or
>>> A. Use a router and 1 1/2" radius router bit, $114.71 here...
>>> http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v156-0102
>> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round. That will make a 1-1/2"
>> quarter-round.
>
> Let me see...if I use a 3/8" radius quarter round bit on a piece of wood 3/4
> x 3/4 I wind up with a nice piece of 3/4 quarter round. Seems to me that a
> 1 1/2" radius bit appled to a piece of 3x3 would yield a 3" quarter round.
> No?
> ___________
>
>>> B. Cut into octogan, quarter it, plane/spokeshave/sand to round
>> That isn't going to make a 3" quarter-round either.
>
> Whoops, see below...
> ______________
>
>>> C. Use a lathe
>> Neither will that.
>
> Will too. He just has to glue up four pieces of 3x3 before turning :)
Heh - this is getting pretty messy. :)
A while back I needed four 3" radius corner pieces and I routed 'em from
a 2x4, which gave me a nice quarter round without the 90° corner.
I used a 1" round nose bit and took a photo about halfway through the
process. I just uploaded it to
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/DSCN1386.JPG (It's a sizable file, so
you may want to skip if you have a dial-up connection) so you can see
the chips flying.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Morris Dovey" wrote:
>
>> Heh - this is getting pretty messy. :)
>>
>> A while back I needed four 3" radius corner pieces and I routed 'em
>> from a 2x4, which gave me a nice quarter round without the 90°
>> corner.
>
> Last time I needed a 3" quarter round for a mold, got a plywood
> quarter round from Anderson International here in town.
>
> They are on the web.
That works too, but I'm willing to bet they charged more than the 22¢/ft
I paid Menards. ;)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
In article <dbb1b306-db01-4f57-affd-d475fb90a974@k41g2000vbt.googlegroups.com>, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>You left out the best part - where you said, "There
>is no safe way to do this on the table saw." - referring to cutting
>the quarter round. If you see above I described one safe way to do
>it.
You seem to have a rather loose definition of 'safe'.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Morris Dovey" wrote:
>
>> That works too, but I'm willing to bet they charged more than the
>> 22¢/ft I paid Menards. ;)
>
> You lose that one.<G>
>
> It was from the reject pile and considered a donation to the boat
> building project.
An excellent gloat! (You suck)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
In article <[email protected]>, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Criminy -- he said he has a band saw. With a band saw available, why would
>you
>> even consider doing this on a table saw instead?
>
>I have/had a long stored away moulding head for a tablesaw that would have
>cut the quarter rounds that he's looking for. But, it's a scary tool and not
>what I'd use if something else was available like a band saw to slice away
>most of the corners of a quarter round.
A 3" radius molding head?! Yeah, I'd agree with your classification of that as
'a scary tool'.
I think I'd take about six cuts with the bandsaw, then finish with a plane or
a spokeshave.
In article <a3b27bf6-c9a8-4e2e-86c1-64862037d175@g23g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>re: > >C. Use a lathe
>>
>> Neither will that.
>
>Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
>at the correct times. <g>
OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
In article <d8738e13-c0e1-4424-8a4f-ed0e6a5775d3@j39g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 1, 3:47=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]=
>..com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >On Oct 1, 8:08=3DA0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> >re: > >C. Use a lathe
>>
>> >> Neither will that.
>>
>> >Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
>> >at the correct times. <g>
>>
>> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
>> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
>
>Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.
>
>If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
>tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
>3" radius.
Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To get a
3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the lathe
centers right at one of the corners.
In article <[email protected]>, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 1, 4:36=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> In article, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
>> >tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
>> >3" radius.
>>
>> Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To get a
>> 3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the lathe
>> centers right at one of the corners.
>
>It is not impossible.
Yes, it is.
> Like Derby said, you just have to synchronize
>the in and out feed with the rotation. Effecting this is left as an
>exercise for the reader.
That's not sufficient. Go back and re-read what I wrote about where the lathe
centers have to be.
In article <[email protected]>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Oct 1, 4:36=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]=
>..com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >On Oct 1, 3:47=3DA0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> >> In article <[email protected]=
>ups=3D
>> >..com>, DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >> >On Oct 1, 8:08=3D3DA0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> >> >re: > >C. Use a lathe
>>
>> >> >> Neither will that.
>>
>> >> >Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
>> >> >at the correct times. <g>
>>
>> >> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that bet=
>ween
>> >> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
>>
>> >Wait a minute, I've re-thunk my method.
>>
>> >If he mounts it off-center and moves his tool in and out (his cutting
>> >tool, for all you perverts) with the correct timing, he could get the
>> >3" radius.
>>
>> Not possible. Remember, he's starting out with a 3"x3" square timber. To =
>get a
>> 3" radius quarter-round out of that on a lathe, you'd have to mount the l=
>athe
>> centers right at one of the corners.
>
>Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? <g>
You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to mount it at
a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy, but that
would leave a radius of less than 3".
In article <[email protected]>, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> In article
>> <a3b27bf6-c9a8-4e2e-86c1-64862037d175@g23g2000yqh.googlegroups.com>,
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>On Oct 1, 8:08=A0am, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>>
>>>re: > >C. Use a lathe
>>>>
>>>> Neither will that.
>>>
>>>Sure it will. You just have to make sure you lift your turning tools
>>>at the correct times. <g>
>>
>> OK, wise guy, back atcha -- tell me how you're going to mount that between
>> centers to get the 3" radius the OP wanted. <g>
>
>Block on each end large enough to take the centers for the correct offset. I
>thought that was obvious but apaerently not.
>
The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those blocks in
a heartbeat.
In article <[email protected]>, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article
>> <[email protected]>,
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? <g>
>>
>> You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to
>> mount it at
>> a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy,
>> but that
>> would leave a radius of less than 3".
>
>Afix 3"x6" or thereabouts boards to ends of 3x3. Mount on lathe at board
>centers.
>
And make sure you're not standing in front of it when you turn the lathe on,
'cause it's coming off.
Stuart wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The vibration from being so far off balance would tear it off those
>> blocks in a heartbeat.
>
> Just stick 4 of them together to make a 6x6 block and turn that, then
> separate
>
> Easy-peasy, nothing out of balance, you produce four at a time and all
> exactly the same radius.
Looks like something isn't right with the clock on your system. Your
posts are coming in with a time stamp of an hour older than when you
posted them.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Stuart wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Looks like something isn't right with the clock on your system. Your
>> posts are coming in with a time stamp of an hour older than when you
>> posted them.
>
> Possibly. I seem to recall this happening once before when we had the
> clock change but I can't remember what the fix was.
>
> The clock on screen is displaying the time correctly.
Well in that case it was a Windows machine exhibiting a bug in its
handling of the automatic adjustment for daylight savings time. It
doesn't look like you're running Windows to me, so it's probably a
different issue.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> This is how I would try - caveat emptor!
>>
>>
>> First, drill a hole in the exact center of the 3x3 at both ends.
>> Scribe a circle around the center, and remove as much waste as you
>> can
>> with the bandsaw. Build a support so that the wood sits like a
>> barbecue spit, suspended from the centers. Mount over a router
>> table,
>> take very fine passes, spinning the wood....
>
> Which is how the Sears Router-Crafter operates.
If you can find one with all the pieces in good working order. Sears dumped
it a while back. Trend in the UK doesn't have it anymore. The Canwood is
gone. Entry level for such a device now appears to be a Legacy Ornamental
Mill for 1500 bucks and up. I understand that Router Magic
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762101857/ref=cm_rdp_product#noop has a
chapter detailing how to make such a thing from bicycle parts. I've seen a
site with plans for one but can't find it again.
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article
> <[email protected]>,
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Didn't I say "If he mounts it off-center"? <g>
>
> You're overlooking the fact that it's intrinsically impossible to
> mount it at
> a corner... A quarter- or half-inch inboard of the corner, I'll buy,
> but that
> would leave a radius of less than 3".
Afix 3"x6" or thereabouts boards to ends of 3x3. Mount on lathe at board
centers.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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