I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box. I
purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is staying
within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it, so
I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood and
then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated. Here's
what the template looks like:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Routing_templates/Battery_Box_Template.html
Thanks,
Ed B.
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "Kevin Singleton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Of course, if the template is designed to be used with a template bit, the
>bushing will leave the routed hole too small by the distance between the bit
>and the outside of the bushing.
Which is why I said he needs
">> 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.
>Check with Stew-Mac about this, and get a
>template guided bit, if needed. It will route to the same dimensions as the
>template.
That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4" deep, for
example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?
>Kevin
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>, "Ed B."
><[email protected]> wrote:
>> >I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and
>I
>> >need to route a hole into the guitar ... [snip] The other option is
>> >to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
>hit
>> >the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
>enough
>> >to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
>> >easy way to do this that I'm missing.
>>
>> You're almost there, but not quite. You need three things:
>> 1) a guide bushing that attaches to the router base,
>> 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing, and
>> 3) a starter hole in the middle of the area to be routed out.
>>
>> Extend the router bit to the full depth of the cut. Drill a starter hole
>> *larger* than the router bit by at least 1/8", the larger the better.
>Place
>> the bit in the starter hole before starting the router. Then enlarge the
>> starter hole to the full width and length of the template by nibbling away
>at
>> the wood around it, until the guide bushing rubs against the template.
>>
>> --
>> Regards,
>> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>>
>> For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
>> send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
>>
>>
>
>
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
good ole stewie mac. if you are simply screwing a plate over the hole (i.e.
not making a recess or a lip so the plate is flush with the back of the
guitar) when you are done the hole doesnt need to be that pretty.. you
should see one of my guitars <g>
but other than that, i think the solution has been well covered already.
randy
"Ed B." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
> need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box.
I
> purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
> Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
> experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
> scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is
staying
> within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
> It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
> because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it,
so
> I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood
and
> then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
> to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
> the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
> to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
> easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.
Here's
> what the template looks like:
>
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Routing_templates/Battery_Box_Template.html
>
> Thanks,
> Ed B.
> [email protected]
>
>
>
Ed,
Sounds like you're not using a collar on the router. The collar, not the
router bit, follows (rubs against) the template. As the links shows, use
double-back carpet tape to hold the template in-place while you route out
the hole.
Bob S.
"Ed B." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
> need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box.
I
> purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
> Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
> experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
> scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is
staying
> within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
> It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
> because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it,
so
> I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood
and
> then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
> to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
> the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
> to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
> easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.
Here's
> what the template looks like:
>
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Routing_templates/Battery_Box_Template.html
>
> Thanks,
> Ed B.
> [email protected]
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, "Kevin Singleton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:3%[email protected]...
>> Which is why I said he needs
>> ">> 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
>> so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.
>>
>> That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
>> required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4" deep,
>for
>> example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?
>>
>
>A router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing won't go through the
>bushing,
Gee, and all this time that I *thought* I was using a 1/2" diameter dovetail
bit on my Leigh jig with a 7/16" OD bushing in the router, I guess really I
was just imagining the whole thing.
The bit is inserted from the bottom, and it doesn't matter at all what
diameter the cutter is relative to the bushing -- the *shank* of the bit is
the only part that needs to pass through the bushing.
> and presents exactly the same limitations as the template bit, of
>course.
You did get *that* part right, though.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
"Ed B." wrote in message
> then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
> to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
> the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
> to where the router bit is past the template.
Almost, but not quite ... You need to use a "router bushing" that screws
into the router base plate with the teimplate.
Porter Cable's are generally standard, but be sure to find the ones that fit
your router's base plate.
Not recommending the following, just something to give you an idea of what
you're missing:
http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Gift_Guide/Router_Accessories.htm
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/28/04
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3%[email protected]...
> Which is why I said he needs
> ">> 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
> so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.
>
> That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
> required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4" deep,
for
> example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?
>
A router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing won't go through the
bushing, and presents exactly the same limitations as the template bit, of
course. And, since the template is 1/4" thick plexi (as is mine, which is
exactly the same as his), it would work perfectly, as I suggested.
Thanks for playing, Doug.
Kevin
In article <[email protected]>, "Ed B." <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
>need to route a hole into the guitar ... [snip] The other option is
>to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that hit
>the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep enough
>to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
>easy way to do this that I'm missing.
You're almost there, but not quite. You need three things:
1) a guide bushing that attaches to the router base,
2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing, and
3) a starter hole in the middle of the area to be routed out.
Extend the router bit to the full depth of the cut. Drill a starter hole
*larger* than the router bit by at least 1/8", the larger the better. Place
the bit in the starter hole before starting the router. Then enlarge the
starter hole to the full width and length of the template by nibbling away at
the wood around it, until the guide bushing rubs against the template.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
Of course, if the template is designed to be used with a template bit, the
bushing will leave the routed hole too small by the distance between the bit
and the outside of the bushing. Check with Stew-Mac about this, and get a
template guided bit, if needed. It will route to the same dimensions as the
template.
Kevin
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Ed B."
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and
I
> >need to route a hole into the guitar ... [snip] The other option is
> >to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
> >the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
> >to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
> >easy way to do this that I'm missing.
>
> You're almost there, but not quite. You need three things:
> 1) a guide bushing that attaches to the router base,
> 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing, and
> 3) a starter hole in the middle of the area to be routed out.
>
> Extend the router bit to the full depth of the cut. Drill a starter hole
> *larger* than the router bit by at least 1/8", the larger the better.
Place
> the bit in the starter hole before starting the router. Then enlarge the
> starter hole to the full width and length of the template by nibbling away
at
> the wood around it, until the guide bushing rubs against the template.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
> send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
>
>
Thanks, Doug. Your recommendation is obviously far superior to mine.
Kevin
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Kevin Singleton"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:3%[email protected]...
> >> Which is why I said he needs
> >> ">> 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
> >> so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.
> >>
> >> That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
> >> required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4"
deep,
> >for
> >> example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?
> >>
> >
> >A router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing won't go through the
> >bushing,
>
> Gee, and all this time that I *thought* I was using a 1/2" diameter
dovetail
> bit on my Leigh jig with a 7/16" OD bushing in the router, I guess really
I
> was just imagining the whole thing.
>
> The bit is inserted from the bottom, and it doesn't matter at all what
> diameter the cutter is relative to the bushing -- the *shank* of the bit
is
> the only part that needs to pass through the bushing.
>
> > and presents exactly the same limitations as the template bit, of
> >course.
>
> You did get *that* part right, though.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
> send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
>
>
Forgot to include an example for you to look at how this works. Did a quick
search for "router collar" and this was the first of hundreds.....
http://www.ucc-udb.com/C21-C27pdf.PDF
A good source would be Lee Valley www.leevalley.com or Pat Warner
www.patwarner.com or many other places like Rockler, Highland Hardware
etc., etc....
Bob S.