If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if
I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me,
despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will
blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the
"wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out.
Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the joint
for fear of bleeding under the tape.
dave
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 21:51:24 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
|oh, water based stain won't interfere with the glue, right?? that would
|be a great advantage.
Probably would. Mask off the joints and apply finish, leaving the
joinery bare.
Wes
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> thanks, Bob. sounds like I need to do some more testing! If the blue
> tape works well, then that would be an easy solution. Someone said if I
> dye stain first and then glue, the glue could screw up the stain anyway
> and I'd be looking at a marred piece. I'm paranoid about not getting
> enough glue in a joint, so I have LOTS of squeeze out.
>
You have to calm down. I don't use that much because the surface I am
gluing on is not easily cleaned. Yet, when I trim the ends off and break
them, they never break at the glue line. (so, even my light gluing is
stronger than the wood)
Fri, Mar 5, 2004, 9:32pm (EST+5) [email protected] (Bay=A0Area=A0Dave) asks:
If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond <snip>
Damn right. I recommend PURPLE.
JOAT
That the peope have a right to bear arms for the defense of themselves
and the state.
- Pennsylvania Constitution of 1776
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKEVOCALS/
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> oh, water based stain won't interfere with the glue, right?? that would
> be a great advantage.
>
Nope - but I read recently that it can bleed back on you if you're not
careful. I blue tape all of the glue areas before I use the water soluble
aniline dyes. [ Actually, I go a little "short/narrow" on the tape - so I
end up over-dying a tad in the glue area, just in case I screw up. ]
you can always test it on some scraps..
randy
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> oh, water based stain won't interfere with the glue, right?? that would
> be a great advantage.
>
> dave
>
> Wes Stewart wrote:
>
> > On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 21:32:33 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > |If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
> > |wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if
> > |I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me,
> > |despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will
> > |blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the
> > |"wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out.
> > |Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the
joint
> > |for fear of bleeding under the tape.
> >
> > I'm appling the finish to my project (at least the first coupla
> > coats) and then I'll glue it up.
> >
>
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 21:32:33 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
|If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
|wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if
|I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me,
|despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will
|blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the
|"wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out.
|Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the joint
|for fear of bleeding under the tape.
I'm appling the finish to my project (at least the first coupla
coats) and then I'll glue it up.
I'm a big believer in testing. Just wondered if it was de rigeur
amongst the Wreckers to prefinish if using water based dye and water
based glue to avoid light areas like I get now with my not-so-perfect
technique when staining with oil modified stain like Bonakemi, which
won't color glue contaminated wood at all.
dave
xrongor wrote:
> you can always test it on some scraps..
>
> randy
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>oh, water based stain won't interfere with the glue, right?? that would
>>be a great advantage.
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Wes Stewart wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 21:32:33 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>|If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
>>>|wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if
>>>|I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me,
>>>|despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will
>>>|blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the
>>>|"wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out.
>>>|Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the
>
> joint
>
>>>|for fear of bleeding under the tape.
>>>
>>>I'm appling the finish to my project (at least the first coupla
>>>coats) and then I'll glue it up.
>>>
>>
>
>
thanks, Bob. sounds like I need to do some more testing! If the blue
tape works well, then that would be an easy solution. Someone said if I
dye stain first and then glue, the glue could screw up the stain anyway
and I'd be looking at a marred piece. I'm paranoid about not getting
enough glue in a joint, so I have LOTS of squeeze out.
dave
Bob S. wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Can't answer about tinting the glue but as for using the 3M (blue) tape -
> use it. Glue will not bleed under it as you've probably experienced with
> paint and other masking tape. I save the tape from the larger projects and
> stick the longer pieces to the back side of a door in the shop to be reused.
> Whenever I need a piece of tape - just grab one of those. It works quite
> well.
>
> Bob S.
>
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
>>wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if
>>I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me,
>>despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will
>>blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the
>>"wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out.
>>Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the joint
>>for fear of bleeding under the tape.
>>
>>dave
>>
>
>
>
Toller wrote:
> You have to calm down. I don't use that much because the surface I am
> gluing on is not easily cleaned. Yet, when I trim the ends off and break
> them, they never break at the glue line. (so, even my light gluing is
> stronger than the wood)
Usually quite true. I've stuck really scraggly, irregular stuff together
with light glue and no clamps, and had it break somewhere other than the
glue line.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Silvan wrote:
> Toller wrote:
>
>> You have to calm down. I don't use that much because the surface I
>> am gluing on is not easily cleaned. Yet, when I trim the ends off
>> and break them, they never break at the glue line. (so, even my
>> light gluing is stronger than the wood)
>
> Usually quite true. I've stuck really scraggly, irregular stuff
> together with light glue and no clamps, and had it break somewhere
> other than the glue line.
Quite some time ago I had a chance to talk with a guy who worked for one of
the major glue manufacturers (can't remember which one), and in conversation
he told me that light gluing is actually better than heavy. He's the guy
that convinced me to use an acid brush and spread a thin even coat rather
than just squirting some in the center of the joint and smooshing things
together. Much less squeeze out to deal with now, though I do keep a damp
sponge or rag on hand during glue ups.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Dave,
Can't answer about tinting the glue but as for using the 3M (blue) tape -
use it. Glue will not bleed under it as you've probably experienced with
paint and other masking tape. I save the tape from the larger projects and
stick the longer pieces to the back side of a door in the shop to be reused.
Whenever I need a piece of tape - just grab one of those. It works quite
well.
Bob S.
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
> wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if
> I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me,
> despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will
> blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the
> "wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out.
> Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the joint
> for fear of bleeding under the tape.
>
> dave
>
oh, water based stain won't interfere with the glue, right?? that would
be a great advantage.
dave
Wes Stewart wrote:
> On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 21:32:33 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> |If I'm gonna use water based dyes instead of oil based pigment stains,
> |wouldn't it be wise to start adding some dye to the titebond so that if
> |I miss cleaning it up properly after glue-ups(which is usual for me,
> |despite my best efforts), that the area with a little glue residue will
> |blend in better with the subsequent dye staining? I've tried both the
> |"wet method" and the "nearly dry" method of removing the squeeze-out.
> |Neither works 100% for me. I'm afraid to put blue tape around the joint
> |for fear of bleeding under the tape.
>
> I'm appling the finish to my project (at least the first coupla
> coats) and then I'll glue it up.
>