I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants me
to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may help
to dress up the board.
Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". If
the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40",
plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants me
> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
> squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
> action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may help
> to dress up the board.
>
> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". If
> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40",
> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
> chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
> figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
Something I have done in the past is to make a raised grid over the
squares,
sort of like window mullions. I have the pieces fit a bit tighter
into the squares
than normal so it doesn't make the board much larger, you still get
the same
spacing between the pieces. Mine were just flat, but with this large
of a board
you could have a small molding (256 pieces mitered at both ends,
yikes!) to
break up the large board. The profile could match the profile on your
turned
bases.
http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
it's actually
a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
You don't necessarily have to do a wide frame, you can also go tall.
Gives a
similar massive look without the extra width.
If I ever do another chess set it's going to be for me, and someone
else can have
it when I am worm food. Too much freaking work.
On Jul 7, 6:32=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who want=
s me
> > to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. =A0I'm thinking =
the
> > squares will be something like 5". =A0His chess =A0pieces will be comic=
book
> > action figures about 8" tall. =A0I will turn a 4" round base for each o=
f
> > these. =A0I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> > maple/cherry or maple/walnut. =A0I'm thinking some simple inlay work ma=
y help
> > to dress up the board.
>
> > Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? =A0I h=
ave
> > some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". =
=A0If
> > the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 4=
0",
> > plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". =A0To me, a four (4') =
foot
> > chessboard is not too practical. =A0But it is more a display for the ac=
tion
> > figures than it is a board for playing chess. =A0Comments please. =A0Th=
anks.
>
> Something I have done in the past is to make a raised grid over the
> squares,
> sort of like window mullions. =A0I have the pieces fit a bit tighter
> into the squares
> than normal so it doesn't make the board much larger, you still get
> the same
> spacing between the pieces. =A0Mine were just flat, but with this large
> of a board
> you could have a small molding (256 pieces mitered at both ends,
> yikes!) to
> break up the large board. =A0The profile could match the profile on your
> turned
> bases.
>
> http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
>
> In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
> it's actually
> a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
>
> You don't necessarily have to do a wide frame, you can also go tall.
> Gives a
> similar massive look without the extra width.
>
> If I ever do another chess set it's going to be for me, and someone
> else can have
> it when I am worm food. =A0Too much freaking work.
Very sweet work! I love the way you handled the crenelations on the
Rooks.
I gotta ask - what did you let that thing go for? Oh, and how _could_
you?! ;)
R
On Jul 9, 10:55=A0am, "Lee Michaels" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "RicodJour" =A0wrote
> On Jul 7, 6:32 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wa=
nts
> > > me
> > > to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking t=
he
> > > squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic boo=
k
> > > action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> > > these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> > > maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may
> > > help
> > > to dress up the board.
>
> > > Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I ha=
ve
> > > some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right"=
.
> > > If
> > > the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X
> > > 40",
> > > plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') f=
oot
> > > chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the act=
ion
> > > figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks=
.
>
> > Something I have done in the past is to make a raised grid over the
> > squares,
> > sort of like window mullions. I have the pieces fit a bit tighter
> > into the squares
> > than normal so it doesn't make the board much larger, you still get
> > the same
> > spacing between the pieces. Mine were just flat, but with this large
> > of a board
> > you could have a small molding (256 pieces mitered at both ends,
> > yikes!) to
> > break up the large board. The profile could match the profile on your
> > turned
> > bases.
>
> >http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
>
> > In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
> > it's actually
> > a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
>
> > You don't necessarily have to do a wide frame, you can also go tall.
> > Gives a
> > similar massive look without the extra width.
>
> > If I ever do another chess set it's going to be for me, and someone
> > else can have
> > it when I am worm food. Too much freaking work.
>
> Very sweet work! =A0I love the way you handled the crenelations on the
> Rooks.
>
> I gotta ask - what did you let that thing go for? =A0Oh, and how _could_
> you?! =A0;)
>
> I really like it too. =A0Not only different, but wonderful forms and colo=
rs.
> I was impressed by the inclusion of the two knots at the edges of the
> chessboard.
Those knots were a brilliant touch.
Yes, I had thought about that, too. Not sure how to attack that problem
using solid wood. Maybe a central board that is thinner, say 3/8", with a
3/4" grooved frame that surrounds it? I don't know.........that's why I am
appealing to you guys. I've never done anything like this before.....but it
sounded like a challenge. Thanks.
Barry
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants
> me
> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
> squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
> action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may help
> to dress up the board.
>
> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". If
> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40",
> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
> chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
> figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
There's going to be a lot of wood movement in a board that big. I
don't know that making the squares from solid wood is a good idea.
It'd be a shame to go to all of that effort and have the board develop
splits and warp. Veneer on plywood would be more stable and more
economical.
You may want to think about embedding rare earth magnets in the figure
bases and pieces of steel in the board, or vice versa, so the figures
would stay put unless you wanted to move them.
R
I was thinking maybe 3/8" squares from soild wood loose fit into a 3/4"
frame. Thanks. Barry
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:aWBck.842$4a3.86@trnddc04...
> "barry712" wrote:
>
>> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants
>> me
>> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
>> squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
>> action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
>> these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
>> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may
>> help
>> to dress up the board.
>>
>> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
>> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". If
>> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X
>> 40",
>> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
>> chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
>> figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
>
> Glue up adjoining strips of 5"-6" wide, then cross cut in 5"-6" strips and
> slip one (1) block, then glue to get checkerboard pattern.
>
> When cured, clean bottom till smooth, then laminate to a piece of plywood,
> say 1/4" (6mm) thick.
>
> If you make the blocks 1/4" thick, you get a 1/2" panel that could be
> loose fit into the rest of the table, same as you would a drawer bottom.
>
>
>
>
> Lew
>
>
>
On Jul 9, 11:32=A0am, Rejnold Byzio <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy:
>
> > I can see an entire chess board filled with cartoon characters. Jessica
> > Rabbit as a queen.... scratch that... too distracting.*
>
> [snip]
>
> > *(I have a thing for Jessica Rabbit. NO therapy has helped me much.)
>
> If nothing else, maybe this will help:http://pixeloo.blogspot.com/2008/04=
/jessica-rabbit-untooned.html
That guy is just awesome. What a brilliant idea!
Ahhh yessss.. Jessica. Off to the large format printer she goes.
Thanks for that.
"barry712" wrote:
> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who
> wants me
> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking
> the
> squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic
> book
> action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each
> of
> these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work
> may help
> to dress up the board.
>
> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I
> have
> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look
> right". If
> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40"
> X 40",
> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4')
> foot
> chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the
> action
> figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please.
> Thanks.
Glue up adjoining strips of 5"-6" wide, then cross cut in 5"-6" strips
and slip one (1) block, then glue to get checkerboard pattern.
When cured, clean bottom till smooth, then laminate to a piece of
plywood, say 1/4" (6mm) thick.
If you make the blocks 1/4" thick, you get a 1/2" panel that could be
loose fit into the rest of the table, same as you would a drawer
bottom.
Lew
Well,
If I wasn't sure how it would look, I'd sure make a quick full scale
model out of cardboard with magic marker squares, and see what your
friend thought of it.
Saves remaking it if he's not pleased.
Sounds like a fun project.
Old Guy
On Jul 6, 9:41=A0pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants =
me
> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. =A0I'm thinking th=
e
> squares will be something like 5". =A0His chess =A0pieces will be comic b=
ook
> action figures about 8" tall. =A0I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> these. =A0I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. =A0I'm thinking some simple inlay work may =
help
> to dress up the board.
>
> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? =A0I hav=
e
> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". =
=A0If
> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40"=
,
> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". =A0To me, a four (4') fo=
ot
> chessboard is not too practical. =A0But it is more a display for the acti=
on
> figures than it is a board for playing chess. =A0Comments please. =A0Than=
ks.
In article
<[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:
> On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants me
> > to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
> > squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
> > action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> > these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> > maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may help
> > to dress up the board.
> >
> > Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
> > some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". If
> > the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40",
> > plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
> > chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
> > figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
>
> Something I have done in the past is to make a raised grid over the
> squares,
> sort of like window mullions. I have the pieces fit a bit tighter
> into the squares
> than normal so it doesn't make the board much larger, you still get
> the same
> spacing between the pieces. Mine were just flat, but with this large
> of a board
> you could have a small molding (256 pieces mitered at both ends,
> yikes!) to
> break up the large board. The profile could match the profile on your
> turned
> bases.
>
> http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
>
> In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
> it's actually
> a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
>
> You don't necessarily have to do a wide frame, you can also go tall.
> Gives a
> similar massive look without the extra width.
>
> If I ever do another chess set it's going to be for me, and someone
> else can have
> it when I am worm food. Too much freaking work.
YOU, sir, are a madman. Absolutely delightful. What a wonderful piece of
work it is.
$ 5000.00 minimum.
What a beautiful application of sapwood and a natural edge.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants
>> me
>> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
>> squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
>> action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
>> these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
>> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may
>> help
>> to dress up the board.
>>
>> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
>> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right".
>> If
>> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X
>> 40",
>> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
>> chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
>> figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
>
> Something I have done in the past is to make a raised grid over the
> squares,
> sort of like window mullions. I have the pieces fit a bit tighter
> into the squares
> than normal so it doesn't make the board much larger, you still get
> the same
> spacing between the pieces. Mine were just flat, but with this large
> of a board
> you could have a small molding (256 pieces mitered at both ends,
> yikes!) to
> break up the large board. The profile could match the profile on your
> turned
> bases.
>
> http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
>
> In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
> it's actually
> a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
>
> You don't necessarily have to do a wide frame, you can also go tall.
> Gives a
> similar massive look without the extra width.
>
> If I ever do another chess set it's going to be for me, and someone
> else can have
> it when I am worm food. Too much freaking work.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
On Jul 6, 10:41=A0pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants =
me
> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. =A0I'm thinking th=
e
> squares will be something like 5". =A0His chess =A0pieces will be comic b=
ook
> action figures about 8" tall. =A0I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> these. =A0I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. =A0I'm thinking some simple inlay work may =
help
> to dress up the board.
>
> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? =A0I hav=
e
> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". =
=A0If
> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40"=
,
> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". =A0To me, a four (4') fo=
ot
> chessboard is not too practical. =A0But it is more a display for the acti=
on
> figures than it is a board for playing chess. =A0Comments please. =A0Than=
ks.
There's going to be a lot of wood movement in a board that big. I
don't know that making the squares from solid wood is a good idea.
It'd be a shame to go to all of that effort and have the board develop
splits and warp. Veneer on plywood would be more stable and more
economical.
You may want to think about embedding rare earth magnets in the figure
bases and pieces of steel in the board, or vice versa, so the figures
would stay put unless you wanted to move them.
R
First thing I'd worry about is weight. How thick is this going to be?
If it's about half the size of a 3/4 plywood sheet, and a sheet of
plywood weights about 25lb per quarter inch, that's something like
forty pounds or so for a 40x40x3/4. Heavy and awkward. Is it going to
go to any conventions or things like that?
Maybe a torsion box, or something similar so it can still be 3/4 or
even one inch thick but weigh a lot less?
Dan
On Jul 6, 9:41=A0pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants =
me
> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. =A0I'm thinking th=
e
> squares will be something like 5". =A0His chess =A0pieces will be comic b=
ook
> action figures about 8" tall. =A0I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> these. =A0I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. =A0I'm thinking some simple inlay work may =
help
> to dress up the board.
>
> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? =A0I hav=
e
> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". =
=A0If
> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40"=
,
> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". =A0To me, a four (4') fo=
ot
> chessboard is not too practical. =A0But it is more a display for the acti=
on
> figures than it is a board for playing chess. =A0Comments please. =A0Than=
ks.
I don't think the scale is a real issuel. I think your biggest problem
will be disimilar materials and expansion in general. Therefore, I
would suggest one of two methods.
1. Use quality hardwood veneer plywood squares of the two materials.
2. Use veneer squares on a stable substrate, such as MDF
If you use plywood, then the edge gluing would be an issue so I would
go with slots and splines along one edge direction. Then do a hardwood
boarder.. You could also do a plywood base with the squares just
placed down on that with no splines and then a hardwood band. Start by
applying the hardwood band to two sides and try to keep it and the
squares super square (ie cutting the squares on the table saw. Then
band the two open sides once you are done.
On Jul 6, 7:41=A0pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants =
me
> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. =A0I'm thinking th=
e
> squares will be something like 5". =A0His chess =A0pieces will be comic b=
ook
> action figures about 8" tall. =A0I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> these. =A0I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. =A0I'm thinking some simple inlay work may =
help
> to dress up the board.
>
> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? =A0I hav=
e
> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right". =
=A0If
> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X 40"=
,
> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". =A0To me, a four (4') fo=
ot
> chessboard is not too practical. =A0But it is more a display for the acti=
on
> figures than it is a board for playing chess. =A0Comments please. =A0Than=
ks.
"RicodJour" wrote
On Jul 7, 6:32 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants
> > me
> > to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
> > squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
> > action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
> > these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
> > maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may
> > help
> > to dress up the board.
>
> > Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
> > some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right".
> > If
> > the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X
> > 40",
> > plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
> > chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
> > figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
>
> Something I have done in the past is to make a raised grid over the
> squares,
> sort of like window mullions. I have the pieces fit a bit tighter
> into the squares
> than normal so it doesn't make the board much larger, you still get
> the same
> spacing between the pieces. Mine were just flat, but with this large
> of a board
> you could have a small molding (256 pieces mitered at both ends,
> yikes!) to
> break up the large board. The profile could match the profile on your
> turned
> bases.
>
> http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
>
> In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
> it's actually
> a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
>
> You don't necessarily have to do a wide frame, you can also go tall.
> Gives a
> similar massive look without the extra width.
>
> If I ever do another chess set it's going to be for me, and someone
> else can have
> it when I am worm food. Too much freaking work.
Very sweet work! I love the way you handled the crenelations on the
Rooks.
I gotta ask - what did you let that thing go for? Oh, and how _could_
you?! ;)
I really like it too. Not only different, but wonderful forms and colors.
I was impressed by the inclusion of the two knots at the edges of the
chessboard.
[email protected] wrote:
: http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
: In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
: it's actually
: a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
That's beautiful. What are the materials used?
-- Andy Barss
Nice idea, but 256 mitered pieces...............eiiiiieeeeaaaahhhhh!
Barry
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jul 6, 10:41 pm, "barry712" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a very good friend who runs a gallery in Gatlinburg, TN who wants
>> me
>> to make him a very nice, and rather large, chessboard. I'm thinking the
>> squares will be something like 5". His chess pieces will be comic book
>> action figures about 8" tall. I will turn a 4" round base for each of
>> these. I'm guessing the board itself will be glued up of squares of
>> maple/cherry or maple/walnut. I'm thinking some simple inlay work may
>> help
>> to dress up the board.
>>
>> Does anyone have any advice/plans/ideas on how I should proceed? I have
>> some concerns that the board will simply be too large to "look right".
>> If
>> the board is composed of 64 - 5" squares, that means it will be 40" X
>> 40",
>> plus it really should have a border or 5" or 6". To me, a four (4') foot
>> chessboard is not too practical. But it is more a display for the action
>> figures than it is a board for playing chess. Comments please. Thanks.
>
> Something I have done in the past is to make a raised grid over the
> squares,
> sort of like window mullions. I have the pieces fit a bit tighter
> into the squares
> than normal so it doesn't make the board much larger, you still get
> the same
> spacing between the pieces. Mine were just flat, but with this large
> of a board
> you could have a small molding (256 pieces mitered at both ends,
> yikes!) to
> break up the large board. The profile could match the profile on your
> turned
> bases.
>
> http://krtwood.com/images/chess/chess01.jpg
>
> In this case the grid was necessary to cover the edges of the bark,
> it's actually
> a T shaped piece that is glued into slots in the plywood base.
>
> You don't necessarily have to do a wide frame, you can also go tall.
> Gives a
> similar massive look without the extra width.
>
> If I ever do another chess set it's going to be for me, and someone
> else can have
> it when I am worm food. Too much freaking work.
Robatoy:
> I can see an entire chess board filled with cartoon characters. Jessica
> Rabbit as a queen.... scratch that... too distracting.*
[snip]
> *(I have a thing for Jessica Rabbit. NO therapy has helped me much.)
If nothing else, maybe this will help:
http://pixeloo.blogspot.com/2008/04/jessica-rabbit-untooned.html
In article
<c3ce88e2-a4ef-4497-9544-6291b14982f0@l42g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
Old Guy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well,
>
> If I wasn't sure how it would look, I'd sure make a quick full scale
> model out of cardboard with magic marker squares, and see what your
> friend thought of it.
>
> Saves remaking it if he's not pleased.
>
> Sounds like a fun project.
>
> Old Guy
>
That was my first reaction: "FUN!"
Chess boards of any size are a great way to use up sink-cut-outs from
solid surface.
I can see an entire chess board filled with cartoon characters. Jessica
Rabbit as a queen.... scratch that... too distracting.*
It will be really hard to NOT make it look tacky.
Yogi Bear will make a nice bishop. <G>
This is not going to be easy.
*(I have a thing for Jessica Rabbit. NO therapy has helped me much.)