I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it works
well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two pieces
of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers through.
I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
the nails about a half inch above the floor.
This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to a
stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking out
one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
BJ
--
http://home.earthlink.net/~billbernice1/
In article <[email protected]>, BJ
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it
> works
> well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two
> pieces
> of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
> the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
> which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
> horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
> 3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers
> through.
> I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
> the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to a
> stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking
> out
> one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
> battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
>
> BJ
I use cheap Wal-Mart Tubular feeders, $3.95 I think. I use a rock and
string, throw the rock with the string attached, across the highest
limb I can reach, that will let the feeder hang away from other limbs.
use the string to pull Stainless Steel Aircraft Wire up and over the
limb. Hang the feeder about 5-6 feet above the ground and your home
free.
They won't or can't slide down the wire, cuts their little feetys, if
they jump from another limb, nothing to hang onto. From the ground, its
too hight for most. If they do grab hold of a peg, the feeder twists
violently and they can't get a hold. Haven't seen a squirrel on one in
2 years. I do put a scoop of sunflower seeds on the ground daily for
the doves and other ground birds, some squirrels show up and eat, but
they don't attempt to use the feeders even if I forget to put some on
the ground. When the ground seedf is gone, they are gone. I haven't had
to replace a feeder in years.
Maybe this will work for some of you that live in the country as I do.
In article <[email protected]>, BJ
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it
> works
> well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two
> pieces
> of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
> the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
> which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
> horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
> 3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers
> through.
> I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
> the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to a
> stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking
> out
> one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
> battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
>
> BJ
I use cheap Wal-Mart Tubular feeders, $3.95 I think. I use a rock and
string, throw the rock with the string attached, across the highest
limb I can reach, that will let the feeder hang away from other limbs.
use the string to pull Stainless Steel Aircraft Wire up and over the
limb. Hang the feeder about 5-6 feet above the ground and your home
free.
They won't or can't slide down the wire, cuts their little feetys, if
they jump from another limb, nothing to hang onto. From the ground, its
too hight for most. If they do grab hold of a peg, the feeder twists
violently and they can't get a hold. Haven't seen a squirrel on one in
2 years. I do put a scoop of sunflower seeds on the ground daily for
the doves and other ground birds, some squirrels show up and eat, but
they don't attempt to use the feeders even if I forget to put some on
the ground. When the ground seedf is gone, they are gone. I haven't had
to replace a feeder in years.
Maybe this will work for some of you that live in the country as I do.
In article <[email protected]>,
Robert Bonomi <[email protected]> wrote:
> The one other requirement is 'proper placement' of the feeder. Has to be
> far enough away from _anything_ so that critters cannot *jump* from somewhere
> and catch the feeder.
And how far away, pray tell, is that?
--
--Chip
remove dots in prefix to fix email address
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In article <[email protected]>, Bill Rogers
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Don't forget to feed the squirrels on the ground.
Please, forget to feed the rats. They'll find plenty of food on their
own.
--
--Chip
remove dots in prefix to fix email address
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min 12' from the side and 8 - 10' from ground
YMMV
BRuce, 87 tree rats down and counting.
Chip G. wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Robert Bonomi <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>The one other requirement is 'proper placement' of the feeder. Has to be
>>far enough away from _anything_ so that critters cannot *jump* from somewhere
>>and catch the feeder.
>
>
> And how far away, pray tell, is that?
>
In article <[email protected]>,
dave in fairfax <reply-to, is, disaled, to, kill, spam> wrote:
>Rick Samuel wrote:
>> I gave up. Birds, your on your own.
>
>BB gun, BBQ'd squirrel. Everybody wins but the tree rat.
>Dave in Fairfax
In the wintertime, one of the _big_ 'super soaker' squirt-guns, makes for
great sport. Particularly when you load it with 4 parts water, one part
rubbing alcohol, and maybe a dollop of liquid dish detergent (make sure
it _is_ a 'detergent' concoction, not 'liquid soap')
Between the alcohol and the detergent, their fur doesn't offer much
protection against getting _wet_.
A truly effective anti-squirrel design consists simply of a _large_ disk (like
24"-30" diameter) with a smooth half-round on the outer edge, and 12-18" of
rigid tubing (EMT, PVC, or even a hollow wooden dowel) *firmly* attached to the
bottom side of it -- with a matching hole in the disk itself. This assembly
just drops over the line that holds up the feeder. Anything reasonably rigid,
and impervious works for the disk -- sheet-metal or plastic is ideal, but
wood -- with a good surface-sealer on it, so the livestock cant sink claws
into it, even at the outer edge -- works almost as well.
As the squirrel attempts to go out to the edge of the disk, obviously that
side of the disk tilts down, and the conduit/PVC causes the feeder to swing
_away_ from the 'down' edge of the disk.
For added entertainment value, you _grease_ the outer several inches of the
disk. When it's above freezing, add a kids wading pool, with several inches
of water, below the feeder -- detergent optional. You'll get a _real_
education in what swearing ins 'squirrel' sounds like. <evil grin>
The one other requirement is 'proper placement' of the feeder. Has to be
far enough away from _anything_ so that critters cannot *jump* from somewhere
and catch the feeder.
In article <080720041217124345%[email protected]>,
Chip G. <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Robert Bonomi <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The one other requirement is 'proper placement' of the feeder. Has to be
>> far enough away from _anything_ so that critters cannot *jump* from somewhere
>> and catch the feeder.
>
>And how far away, pray tell, is that?
The proverbial 'it depends' applies. <grin>
Among other things, on how the feeder is mounted. One that is rigidly
attached to the top of a pole requires more horizontal clearance than one
that is hung (via flexible support) from overhead.
It also depends on what kind of a 'launching platform' they have to
work with -- if there is only a vertical surface available, much less
clearance is necessary, compared to when a near-horizontal point (such
as the crotch between limb and trunk) can be utilized. Even more space
is required, if they can get a running start along that horizontal
surface.
Lastly, _what_kind_ of critters you have to deal with can make a big
difference. Red/grey squirrels are one thing. "Flying" squirrels,
who actually 'glide' rather than fly, are a whole different ball-game.
For the squirrels encountered in central Iowa, a wire-suspended feeder -- at a
height of about 5' above ground, hanging about 8' out from the trunk of the
tree, on a limb that was about 11' off the ground, and with a 'hat' (as
previously described) about 18" above the feeder -- had a 25+ year track
record of withstanding all attempts by the resident squirrel population.
A lot of 'free entertainment' was provided by their ongoing attempts, however.
Since those unsuccessful attempts _did_ interfere with the desired bird's
use of the facilities, the teen-aged boys *were* known to use the afore-
mentioned "super-soaker" to 'discourage' the squirrels. With limited
success <wry grin>
Rick Samuel wrote:
> I gave up. Birds, your on your own.
BB gun, BBQ'd squirrel. Everybody wins but the tree rat.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
BJ wrote:
> I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it works
> well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two pieces
> of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
> the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
> which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
> horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
> 3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers through.
> I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
> the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to a
> stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking out
> one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
> battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
>
> BJ
>
I accomplished the same by using a piece of 3/8 inch hardware cloth to
cover the tray. It is hinged on the outside by two loose staples so it
can be flipped up for cleaning the tray.
--
Gerald Ross, Cochran, GA
To reply add the numerals "13" before the "at"
...........................................
People will die this year that never
died before.
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On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 13:13:15 GMT, "BJ" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it works
>well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two pieces
>of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
>the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
>which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
>horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
>3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
>escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers through.
>I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
>the nails about a half inch above the floor.
>This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to a
>stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking out
>one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
>battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
>
>BJ
I've a platform bird feeder on a wood pole. I've a 10" water pipe
sitting upright with a gap on the end for the seed to come out on the
platform. Pretty easy access for squirrels. I decided to do
something other than shoo them off. I placed a plastic planter, the
kind that comes with a new plant from a Home Depot or such, upside
down underneath the platform.
It was entertaining to watch the first squirrel try to hop around it
from the pole to the platform but it is just out of reach.
I fully expect to see them eventually figure it out and try something
new. Probably chew through the plastic planter. They are ingenious
fellows.
Thunder
On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 19:42:14 -0500, Boogeyman <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>They won't or can't slide down the wire, cuts their little feetys, if
>they jump from another limb, nothing to hang onto. From the ground, its
>too hight for most. If they do grab hold of a peg, the feeder twists
>violently and they can't get a hold. Haven't seen a squirrel on one in
>2 years. I do put a scoop of sunflower seeds on the ground daily for
>the doves and other ground birds, some squirrels show up and eat, but
>they don't attempt to use the feeders even if I forget to put some on
>the ground. When the ground seedf is gone, they are gone. I haven't had
>to replace a feeder in years.
>
>Maybe this will work for some of you that live in the country as I do.
What about this guy? You don't want to piss him off too much.
http://www.stud.ntnu.no/~shane/stasj/pics/humor/div/111.html
(The other 500+ pics aren't bad, either.)
-------------------------------------------
Crapsman tools are their own punishment
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
======================================================
I have found the ultimate bird feeder defense against squirrels. It cost me about $5 a pop and I use it once every two
years for about 1 week.
I go to the local nature center and rent a squirrel trap for $5 per week. I put it near the bird feeders. In about a
weeks time I catch anyhwere from 2-5 squirrels. I relocate these to the local park where there is plenty of water ( a
river runs nearby), trees and food. It usually brings the population of squirrels, around my house to a managable level.
It usually takes about 2 years to get the population back up to the point where I need to repeat the process.
JAW
BJ wrote:
> I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it works
> well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two pieces
> of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
> the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
> which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
> horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
> 3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers through.
> I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
> the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to a
> stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking out
> one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
> battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
>
> BJ
>
In article <[email protected]>, "BJ" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof .
See http://www.yankeeflipper.com
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
Closest thing to perfection I've seen is a spring loaded sliding door that
when the heavier squirrel stood on the perch, the outside tube would slide
down in front of the small round openings in the feeder. When a lighter
bird perched, not enough weight to move it so they could feed. Presumably
any birds in need of weight watchers would have trouble :-)
In news:[email protected],
Phisherman <[email protected]> typed:
> The feeder I saw that worked was one that the feeder was inside a
> cage. The bars are far apart enough for the birds to enter, but too
> close together to allow a squirrel. And the food is too far for the
> squirrel to reach.
>
> I've seen several "squirrel proof" feeders that are not at all
> squirrel proof.
"Rolling Thunder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 13:13:15 GMT, "BJ" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it
works
> >well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two
pieces
> >of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
> >the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
> >which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
> >horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
> >3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> >escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers
through.
> >I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
> >the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> >This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to
a
> >stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking
out
> >one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
> >battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
> >
> >BJ
>
> I've a platform bird feeder on a wood pole. I've a 10" water pipe
> sitting upright with a gap on the end for the seed to come out on the
> platform. Pretty easy access for squirrels. I decided to do
> something other than shoo them off. I placed a plastic planter, the
> kind that comes with a new plant from a Home Depot or such, upside
> down underneath the platform.
>
> It was entertaining to watch the first squirrel try to hop around it
> from the pole to the platform but it is just out of reach.
>
> I fully expect to see them eventually figure it out and try something
> new. Probably chew through the plastic planter. They are ingenious
> fellows.
>
> Thunder
You are right. I would lay my bets with the squirrel. I hung a feeder up from
the eave of my house which is over some sliding glass doors. They couldn't
climb up the glass doors and jump over to the feeders but they figured out a
way. They would get a running start and hit the glass about half way up and
spring over to the feeder like a bank shot, an amazing feat.
It's a world wide conspiracy.
BJ
Your system sounds like a good idea. I think I will try my luck at making one
as you describe only I think I will use sheet aluminum flashing instead of cans
unless you think I should stick to cans. I can pop rivet it together into the
cylinder. An excellent idea.
Thanks!!
Bill
--
http://home.earthlink.net/~billbernice1/
"OldSalemWood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Simple idea for a pole mounted feeder that is out of range for a normal
> squirrel to jump on.
>
> I use a piece of copper plumbing pipe as the pole, so it's a bit hard to
> climb. (It also weathers to a nice patina) Then I take three LARGE
> galvanized food cans (like green beans or white potatos), and cut one end
> out of each. On two, I cut tabs out of the top lid to mount into the other
> cans. I join the three together using pop rivets to make a long cylinder
> open in the inside, except for the top can lid. Then, I cut a hole in the
> center of the lid of the top can that is just the diameter of the pole. I
> place this cylinder on the pole and position it just a few inches below the
> bird feeder. Some screws through the pole will pin it and allow it to
> wobble.
>
> Squirrels will climb the pole and go inside the cylinder, only to be trapped
> from going higher. There's nothing for them to chew up. The diameter of the
> cylinder is too large for them to grip on the outside, so they can't climb
> it. I peeled the labels and painted the cans to look nicer. No grey squirrel
> yet has defeated this system in over 10 years on two of our feeders.
>
> However, the flying squirrels at night glide in from perches on high and
> snack until they can fly no more.They are so cute, it's not worth another
> defense.
>
>
Simple idea for a pole mounted feeder that is out of range for a normal
squirrel to jump on.
I use a piece of copper plumbing pipe as the pole, so it's a bit hard to
climb. (It also weathers to a nice patina) Then I take three LARGE
galvanized food cans (like green beans or white potatos), and cut one end
out of each. On two, I cut tabs out of the top lid to mount into the other
cans. I join the three together using pop rivets to make a long cylinder
open in the inside, except for the top can lid. Then, I cut a hole in the
center of the lid of the top can that is just the diameter of the pole. I
place this cylinder on the pole and position it just a few inches below the
bird feeder. Some screws through the pole will pin it and allow it to
wobble.
Squirrels will climb the pole and go inside the cylinder, only to be trapped
from going higher. There's nothing for them to chew up. The diameter of the
cylinder is too large for them to grip on the outside, so they can't climb
it. I peeled the labels and painted the cans to look nicer. No grey squirrel
yet has defeated this system in over 10 years on two of our feeders.
However, the flying squirrels at night glide in from perches on high and
snack until they can fly no more.They are so cute, it's not worth another
defense.
"BJ" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof .
> If it works well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird
> feeder there are two pieces of glass that rest in slots on either side
> of the feeder. The glass rests in the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so
> above the floor leaving a horizontal slot which allows the seed to
> come out onto the floor. In the floor of this horizontal slot in a
> straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about 3/16 inch
> apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and
> fingers through. I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the
> glass rests on the top of the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down
> almost to a stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for
> several hours taking out one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I
> guess. I'm not sure I won the battle, yet. This probably isn't an
> original idea but it is for me.
>
> BJ
>
See <http://www.rollerfeeder.com/>
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Great idea! What is the best diameter of the cylinder ?
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~billbernice1/
> > "OldSalemWood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > I use a piece of copper plumbing pipe as the pole, so it's a bit hard
to
> > > climb. (It also weathers to a nice patina) Then I take three LARGE
> > > galvanized food cans (like green beans or white potatos), and cut one
end
> > > out of each. On two, I cut tabs out of the top lid to mount into the
other
> > > cans. I join the three together using pop rivets to make a long
cylinder
> > > open in the inside, except for the top can lid. Then, I cut a hole in
the
> > > center of the lid of the top can that is just the diameter of the
pole. I
> > > place this cylinder on the pole and position it just a few inches
below the
> > > bird feeder. Some screws through the pole will pin it and allow it to
> > > wobble.
> > >
> > > Squirrels will climb the pole and go inside the cylinder, only to be
trapped
> > > from going higher. There's nothing for them to chew up. The diameter
of the
> > > cylinder is too large for them to grip on the outside, so they can't
climb
> > > it. I peeled the labels and painted the cans to look nicer. No grey
squirrel
> > > yet has defeated this system in over 10 years on two of our feeders.
>
> BJ <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Your system sounds like a good idea. I think I will try my luck at
making one
> > as you describe only I think I will use sheet aluminum flashing instead
of cans
> > unless you think I should stick to cans. I can pop rivet it together
into the
> > cylinder. An excellent idea.
>
> I have done this on one of two pole mounted bird feeders. I cut
> a disk out of pressure treated plywood (Ob. woodworking) and nailed
> aluminum flashing around it to form the cylinder. Drilled a hole
> just big enough for the pole in the center of the disk and slid it
> down over the galvanized metal pole that holds the feeder. Same result,
> no squirrles on the feeder.
>
> Now, my other feeder is mounted on a 4X4 post, so I had to make a
> large umbrella shaped piece out of flashing that I then nailed
> to the post under the feeder. This kept the squirrles out quite
> well, but was defeated by the local racoon. My wife found him
> sitting in the platform feeder one morning. The addition
> of flashing, cladding the post, under the "umbrella" so mister
> racoon can't get a good foothold seems to have solved that.
>
> Bill Ranck
> Blacksburg, Va.
Haven't tried your idea, but many other ones.
Seems the squirrel is smarter then me. Haven't
been able to stop them yet. One plan was to hang
it with two feet of twine, out of reach. He
pulled up the string to get the feed. Ok, went to
stiff wire, he couldn't reach the food. I won....
a few days later I saw him tip the feeder so the
food ran out onto the ground. He climbed down and
feasted. I gave up. Birds, your on your own.
BJ wrote:
> I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it works
> well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two pieces
> of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
> the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal slot
> which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
> horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails about
> 3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers through.
> I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests on the top of
> the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost to a
> stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours taking out
> one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
> battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
>
> BJ
>
BJ wrote:
> I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it
> works
> well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two
> pieces
> of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests
> in
> the slot about 3/8 ths inch or so above the floor leaving a horizontal
> slot
> which allows the seed to come out onto the floor. In the floor of this
> horizontal slot in a straight line, I drove a series of one inch nails
> about
> 3/16 inch apart and 3/8th inch high just far apart enough to let the seed
> escape but nor wide enough to let the squirrel get his hand and fingers
> through. I then replaced the glass so that the bottom of the glass rests
> on the top of the nails about a half inch above the floor.
> This seems to work for the squirrels. At least it slows them down almost
> to a
> stop. I saw one sitting on the floor of the feeder for several hours
> taking out
> one seed at a time which I can tolerate, I guess. I'm not sure I won the
> battle, yet. This probably isn't an original idea but it is for me.
Off topic a bit, but one place I lived there was a woodpecker that had it in
for squirrels for some reason and a cat that though a squirrel was a tasty
snack. So when a new squirrel showed up at the bird feeder, the cat would
sit under the bird feeder looking hungrily at the squirrel, and after a
while the woodpecker would dive-bomb the squirrel right down into the cat's
lap.
Unfortunately you can't teach that kind of teamwork.
>
> BJ
>
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
> http://home.earthlink.net/~billbernice1/
> "OldSalemWood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > I use a piece of copper plumbing pipe as the pole, so it's a bit hard to
> > climb. (It also weathers to a nice patina) Then I take three LARGE
> > galvanized food cans (like green beans or white potatos), and cut one end
> > out of each. On two, I cut tabs out of the top lid to mount into the other
> > cans. I join the three together using pop rivets to make a long cylinder
> > open in the inside, except for the top can lid. Then, I cut a hole in the
> > center of the lid of the top can that is just the diameter of the pole. I
> > place this cylinder on the pole and position it just a few inches below the
> > bird feeder. Some screws through the pole will pin it and allow it to
> > wobble.
> >
> > Squirrels will climb the pole and go inside the cylinder, only to be trapped
> > from going higher. There's nothing for them to chew up. The diameter of the
> > cylinder is too large for them to grip on the outside, so they can't climb
> > it. I peeled the labels and painted the cans to look nicer. No grey squirrel
> > yet has defeated this system in over 10 years on two of our feeders.
BJ <[email protected]> wrote:
> Your system sounds like a good idea. I think I will try my luck at making one
> as you describe only I think I will use sheet aluminum flashing instead of cans
> unless you think I should stick to cans. I can pop rivet it together into the
> cylinder. An excellent idea.
I have done this on one of two pole mounted bird feeders. I cut
a disk out of pressure treated plywood (Ob. woodworking) and nailed
aluminum flashing around it to form the cylinder. Drilled a hole
just big enough for the pole in the center of the disk and slid it
down over the galvanized metal pole that holds the feeder. Same result,
no squirrles on the feeder.
Now, my other feeder is mounted on a 4X4 post, so I had to make a
large umbrella shaped piece out of flashing that I then nailed
to the post under the feeder. This kept the squirrles out quite
well, but was defeated by the local racoon. My wife found him
sitting in the platform feeder one morning. The addition
of flashing, cladding the post, under the "umbrella" so mister
racoon can't get a good foothold seems to have solved that.
Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.
Hi Robert, hi folks.
Your idea of the wadding pool made me LOL.
Cool idea :)
I also read about using old vinyl records (12 inches of course)
abbuted against a stopper (a big knot) on the line holding the feeder.
Its slippery enough to discourage the squirrels. I dont know if they
are wide enough though. Good way to recycle old records.
Jean (Johnny) Lemire from Richelieu, Quebec, Canada.
On Mon, 05 Jul 2004 21:20:35 GMT, JAW <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have found the ultimate bird feeder defense against squirrels. It cost me about $5 a pop and I use it once every two
>years for about 1 week.
>
> I go to the local nature center and rent a squirrel trap for $5 per week. I put it near the bird feeders. In about a
>weeks time I catch anyhwere from 2-5 squirrels. I relocate these to the local park where there is plenty of water ( a
>river runs nearby), trees and food. It usually brings the population of squirrels, around my house to a managable level.
>It usually takes about 2 years to get the population back up to the point where I need to repeat the process.
And if everyone did this, what do you think would happen to the
population in the park? As it is, every animal is territorial, and
you'd be upsetting nature's balance again.
You don't need to do that at all. We live in the county, and I have a
solution that works all the time, and costs less than $5 if I do one
for all my neighbours.
Take a piece of 6" diameter stovepipe tin [unbent], about 12" long.
Use tinsnips [borrow to keep under $5 if you don't have any] to cut
three tabs that will be bent over and drilled to accept screws. Bend
the tin into the tube shape around the support pole if already there;
it snaps into place. Use the tabs to fasten with screws to the base
of the feeder.
You'll have fun you couldn't pay for watching the squirrel trying to
get up the pole and past the tin to the feeder. Hint; A good strong
steel pole to support the feeder also is better than a wooden one as a
further deterrent. It must also obviously be far enough from trees
and overhanging wires to avoid him jumping directly onto the top of
the feeder.
Don't forget to feed the squirrels on the ground.
Bill.
On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 13:13:15 GMT, "BJ" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I made a modification to my bird feeder to make it squirrel proof . If it works
>well, I'll make several new ones. In a normal bird feeder there are two pieces
>of glass that rest in slots on either side of the feeder. The glass rests in
I won, but it took about 3 months of trial and error. I hung the
feeder from approx 4 feet of greased wire. About halfway down, I had a
1.5 inch diameter wooden ball fixed. Freely pivoting on top of the
ball, was a metal disk about 12 inches in diameter (rescued from an
old light fitting in the dumpster) They never solved it, but it
provided a lot of entertainment watching them.
--
http://home.earthlink.net/~billbernice1/
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~billbernice1/
> > "OldSalemWood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > I use a piece of copper plumbing pipe as the pole, so it's a bit hard to
> > > climb. (It also weathers to a nice patina) Then I take three LARGE
> > > galvanized food cans (like green beans or white potatos), and cut one end
> > > out of each. On two, I cut tabs out of the top lid to mount into the
other
> > > cans. I join the three together using pop rivets to make a long cylinder
> > > open in the inside, except for the top can lid. Then, I cut a hole in the
> > > center of the lid of the top can that is just the diameter of the pole. I
> > > place this cylinder on the pole and position it just a few inches below
the
> > > bird feeder. Some screws through the pole will pin it and allow it to
> > > wobble.
> > >
> > > Squirrels will climb the pole and go inside the cylinder, only to be
trapped
> > > from going higher. There's nothing for them to chew up. The diameter of
the
> > > cylinder is too large for them to grip on the outside, so they can't climb
> > > it. I peeled the labels and painted the cans to look nicer. No grey
squirrel
> > > yet has defeated this system in over 10 years on two of our feeders.
>
> BJ <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Your system sounds like a good idea. I think I will try my luck at making
one
> > as you describe only I think I will use sheet aluminum flashing instead of
cans
> > unless you think I should stick to cans. I can pop rivet it together into
the
> > cylinder. An excellent idea.
>
> I have done this on one of two pole mounted bird feeders. I cut
> a disk out of pressure treated plywood (Ob. woodworking) and nailed
> aluminum flashing around it to form the cylinder. Drilled a hole
> just big enough for the pole in the center of the disk and slid it
> down over the galvanized metal pole that holds the feeder. Same result,
> no squirrles on the feeder.
>
> Now, my other feeder is mounted on a 4X4 post, so I had to make a
> large umbrella shaped piece out of flashing that I then nailed
> to the post under the feeder. This kept the squirrles out quite
> well, but was defeated by the local racoon. My wife found him
> sitting in the platform feeder one morning. The addition
> of flashing, cladding the post, under the "umbrella" so mister
> racoon can't get a good foothold seems to have solved that.
>
> Bill Ranck
> Blacksburg, Va.
**I modified your idea a little. I used your same idea but instead of a
cylinder, I made a cone of flashing with the open end down. I used 18 1/2 "
flashing and then from one corner, I drew an 18 1/2" radius quarter circle and
cut it out. I then cut out a little circle at the point to fit over the pipe. I
then punched holes for the pop rivits using a template I made so the holes would
be exact. I then folded the cone over and pop riveted it together. At the
point end, I made a number of slits with my shear and fitted a hose clamp over
it. I then fastened this to the feeder pole a few inches down from the floor of
the feeder and tightened the hose clamp to secure it.
I have watched the squirrels try to climb the poles and they climb it until
they get inside of the cone then turn around and jump back to the qround. So
far, so good.
Bill Orr