Richard asks:
>My hallway has the original oak block flooring which I wish to renovate.
>Advice is sought as to best methods please.
Sand, refinish. That said, sanding floors is a job that can be very difficult
to get right. I've seen even pros leave washboard effects. If it were me, and
my oak block floor, I'd hire a well recommended local guy or gal to do the job
for me, at least the sanding.
If not, when you rent the flooring sander, look for a random orbital model.
These are much easier to control, do not leave the gouges that big belt sanders
leave--and tend to be harder to find in rental stores.
Use a top grade finish. These days, water borne works almost as well as
oil-based, which means a lot faster finish (two, sometimes three, coats per
day). You will need at least three coats. Check at your local finishing outlet
for fillers (should not be needed on a refinish, but if your oak blocks show
end grain, a filler might be needed) and any stains (probably not a good idea
on a refinish).
Some of the newest ROS for floors coming with built-in vacs. Most don't. Seal
the doorways with plastic and blue tape to confine the dust to the hall. Vacuum
super carefully and do a general wipe-down and clean-up before laying on the
first coat of finish. Make sure all dust has settled out of the air, and been
vacuumed or wipe up, before the first coat goes on. Follow finish
manufacturer's directions exactly.
Charlie Self
"It is even harder for the average ape to believe that he has descended from
man."
H. L. Mencken
Charlie Self wrote:
> Richard asks:
>
>>My hallway has the original oak block flooring which I wish to renovate.
>>Advice is sought as to best methods please.
>
> Sand, refinish. That said, sanding floors is a job that can be very
> difficult to get right. I've seen even pros leave washboard effects. If it
> were me, and my oak block floor, I'd hire a well recommended local guy or
> gal to do the job for me, at least the sanding.
>
> If not, when you rent the flooring sander, look for a random orbital
> model. These are much easier to control, do not leave the gouges that big
> belt sanders leave--and tend to be harder to find in rental stores.
>
> Use a top grade finish. These days, water borne works almost as well as
> oil-based, which means a lot faster finish (two, sometimes three, coats
> per day). You will need at least three coats. Check at your local
> finishing outlet for fillers (should not be needed on a refinish, but if
> your oak blocks show end grain, a filler might be needed) and any stains
> (probably not a good idea on a refinish).
>
> Some of the newest ROS for floors coming with built-in vacs. Most don't.
> Seal the doorways with plastic and blue tape to confine the dust to the
> hall. Vacuum super carefully and do a general wipe-down and clean-up
> before laying on the first coat of finish. Make sure all dust has settled
> out of the air, and been vacuumed or wipe up, before the first coat goes
> on. Follow finish manufacturer's directions exactly.
FWIW, many years ago when I was young and foolish I neglected the "seal the
doorways with plastic and blue tape" (and I'd add to that any heating
vents, baseboard heaters, radiators, or anything else that is permanently
installed and has nooks and crannies that can collect and hold dust) and 20
years later I'm still cleaning it up.
> Charlie Self
> "It is even harder for the average ape to believe that he has descended
> from man."
> H. L. Mencken
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)