There are probably umpteen books, videos and websites out there on this
topic ... I know I've seen a few that seemed to touch on it (but only just
enough to sell something).
Can anyone recommend a good web-site or book with a step-by-step
(cookbook) walk-through of resawing logs into lumber and lumber into
veneer?
I have a 1 hp 14" Chiwanese bandsaw with aftermarket riser and a Timber
Wolf 3/4" x 3 tooth blade. I've been having a lot of fun maiking thin
pieces of poplar and QS Oak out of thick ones today.
I need to cut slippery elm bowl slabs into platter slabs (in a 2 for 1
exchange since I now need more final pieces than previously contemplated)
and figured tamarind heartwood (harder than calculus!) into veneer for my
son, the budding luthier. Hey ... the stuff is pink, curly, and hard
to pull nails out of. Accoring to Randy at Woodcraft, it has a specific
gravity of .9. According to my hammer, it has a Vulcan death grip on
ringed nails.
I'll probably need some way to hold the bowl slabs upright without
sacrificing too much flesh.
I'm in no immediate hurry, so 'shop=built' accesories / tools are just
fine. Will I need a fancy-pants bandsaw table or will the stock
contraption suffice if I just pay attention to what I am doing?
It seems like anthing I want to do in the shop requires me to do two other
things and learn three new tricks before I can even get back to draining
the swamp. This might make a good topic for one of Macs Musings. IE: "Ya
can't get there from here."
Bill
Well you can get there from here. But you've got to go
over there first.
If you want to start with logettes (little logs - the
size you can actually lift onto a table AND control
while bandsawing) this may be of use.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Resawing1.html
You should join a face between cuts and having a
drum sander is handy too.
charlie b
BIll:
First, I can't take credit for the add on table and fence - the idea
came from a Journal of American Woodworking (I think that's
the magazine name) - my interpretation of what's in that
article.
If you look at the first two pictures on this page you can
see the problem with the tall fence face - it hits the blade
guides when the throat height is less than the height of
the fence face.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Resawing1.html
I need to make some fence faces of various heights of 3/4" ply,
with counter sunk T-nuts, and route some grooves in the
main face for "male" knobs to pass through from the back of
the fence into the "add on" fence face T-nuts. By having a
range of auxilliary fence faces, I can keep the throat height
to the minimum required by the height of the stock being
resawn - BELOW the upper blade guides. THEN I can
more easily resaw thin slices without kludging things
like in the two pictures - screwing "add ons" onto my
main fence face.
There ain't no board stretchers - but resawing is close.
charlie b
hello,
are you using a HF el cheapo bandsaw with a raiser like me (at least, I know
that you are using the same blade:-)
if this is the case, all data following comes from the: "been there, done
that" department...
Depending on the side of your logs, you use various techniques (assuming of
course that your TS is setup properly, your table is 1.57079 rad to the
blade (90° for you non mathematicians:-) and that your table is SECURLY held
at that angle (will no move overtime as you slam your large log on it)
for larger logs, heavier, harder to play with:
you need a basic but long fence (I use a peice of extruded aluminum rail
around 5 foot long, but you might be able to get by with a 4*4 planned down
to be flat and slick) that you clamp at 1" from the blade (or so) normally,
you just need to do that // to the blade as you get more or less no drift on
a 3/4" blade, but dbl check first.
then, setup rollers back and front of your TS, and BOLT the log to a planned
2*6 or 2*8 or bigger, if possible on the straightest side of the log,
potentially using a power hand plane to get it flatter. once it is securly
in place, use the wedges and put them at the angle between your log and the
2*x to ensure better stability. you MUST have the bolts/screws secure, and
sunked in the 2*.
Step one, use that setup, cut 1" or so from the log by sliding the 2*x
(setup flat on the table) next to the fence. this will give you a 90°
between the side of the 2* and the middle of the log
then, pivot the whole thing 90° and slide the 2*x on the fence repetidely,
moving the fence 1" at a time to make your boards (at the end, you might
need to create a new flat slider on the log by doing another cut at 90°.
for small logs and veneer, creating a sliding sled is the best in my
opinion, Rockler has one, but I made mine from aluminum at the local machine
shop. I imagine that you can make one out of hardwood, but it will not be as
easy.
regards, cyrille
"W Canaday" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There are probably umpteen books, videos and websites out there on this
> topic ... I know I've seen a few that seemed to touch on it (but only just
> enough to sell something).
>
> Can anyone recommend a good web-site or book with a step-by-step
> (cookbook) walk-through of resawing logs into lumber and lumber into
> veneer?
>
> I have a 1 hp 14" Chiwanese bandsaw with aftermarket riser and a Timber
> Wolf 3/4" x 3 tooth blade. I've been having a lot of fun maiking thin
> pieces of poplar and QS Oak out of thick ones today.
>
> I need to cut slippery elm bowl slabs into platter slabs (in a 2 for 1
> exchange since I now need more final pieces than previously contemplated)
> and figured tamarind heartwood (harder than calculus!) into veneer for my
> son, the budding luthier. Hey ... the stuff is pink, curly, and hard
> to pull nails out of. Accoring to Randy at Woodcraft, it has a specific
> gravity of .9. According to my hammer, it has a Vulcan death grip on
> ringed nails.
>
> I'll probably need some way to hold the bowl slabs upright without
> sacrificing too much flesh.
>
> I'm in no immediate hurry, so 'shop=built' accesories / tools are just
> fine. Will I need a fancy-pants bandsaw table or will the stock
> contraption suffice if I just pay attention to what I am doing?
>
> It seems like anthing I want to do in the shop requires me to do two other
> things and learn three new tricks before I can even get back to draining
> the swamp. This might make a good topic for one of Macs Musings. IE: "Ya
> can't get there from here."
>
> Bill
There is a lot of good information concerning resawing and working with
veneers at
www.joewoodworker.com
Look at the links.
"W Canaday" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There are probably umpteen books, videos and websites out there on this
> topic ... I know I've seen a few that seemed to touch on it (but only just
> enough to sell something).
>
> Can anyone recommend a good web-site or book with a step-by-step
> (cookbook) walk-through of resawing logs into lumber and lumber into
> veneer?
>
> I have a 1 hp 14" Chiwanese bandsaw with aftermarket riser and a Timber
> Wolf 3/4" x 3 tooth blade. I've been having a lot of fun maiking thin
> pieces of poplar and QS Oak out of thick ones today.
>
> I need to cut slippery elm bowl slabs into platter slabs (in a 2 for 1
> exchange since I now need more final pieces than previously contemplated)
> and figured tamarind heartwood (harder than calculus!) into veneer for my
> son, the budding luthier. Hey ... the stuff is pink, curly, and hard
> to pull nails out of. Accoring to Randy at Woodcraft, it has a specific
> gravity of .9. According to my hammer, it has a Vulcan death grip on
> ringed nails.
>
> I'll probably need some way to hold the bowl slabs upright without
> sacrificing too much flesh.
>
> I'm in no immediate hurry, so 'shop=built' accesories / tools are just
> fine. Will I need a fancy-pants bandsaw table or will the stock
> contraption suffice if I just pay attention to what I am doing?
>
> It seems like anthing I want to do in the shop requires me to do two other
> things and learn three new tricks before I can even get back to draining
> the swamp. This might make a good topic for one of Macs Musings. IE: "Ya
> can't get there from here."
>
> Bill
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 17:10:52 -0800, charlie b wrote:
> Well you can get there from here. But you've got to go over there first.
>
> If you want to start with logettes (little logs - the size you can
> actually lift onto a table AND control while bandsawing) this may be of
> use.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Resawing1.html
>
> You should join a face between cuts and having a drum sander is handy too.
>
> charlie b
Thanks ... I had found what looked like a great article on the FWW site
... but I don't think I want to pay them $34.95 to take a look at page two
of a *.pdf file.
This looks (at first glance) to be about what I need.
Bill
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 16:37:22 -0800, marcaf wrote:
> I made this jig to resaw small logs which I saw on
> http://www.beaverpondstudio.com. Unfortunately, the owner of the site has
> passed on, but I think he left some valuble information. It works well on
> my 14" bandsaw.
>
> Marc
> http://marcafreedman.com/
I like using the pipe clamp on side. Very simple arrangement, I could use
it right away without having to make a super-duper bandsaw table.
I am interested in learning how to do things the simplest way that
provides the required result. I am not a gadget-hound. I want to "make
stuff", not make stuff to go on my stuff to make stuff with.
Bill
On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 19:25:29 -0800, charlie b wrote:
> W Canaday wrote:
>
>> This looks (at first glance) to be about what I need.
>>
>> Bill
>
> If I left anything critical out or there's ambiguity in the exploded
> view of the table and fence feel free to e-mail questions. Wth a
> digital camera, I can e-mail photos - with notes, arrows etc.
>
> charlie b
I hate this laptop with the mouse thingy in the middle ... if this is a
repeat posting, that's why.
Charlie, your web site is a major boon! I intend to try my hand at
building your resawing sled / bandsaw table. If I get stuck, I'll let you
know.
I have some slippery elm that is significant because of its source
...being able to resaw it will let me share the commemorative pieces
at least twice as far.
Thanks ...
Bill