All,
I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7", vertical section
is approx. 10" x 7".
The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e., angle from top of
base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.
My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior visible evidence of
the joint i.e., a blind joint.
Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned of full blind
dovetail joints - just what I need!
After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the two pieces are
not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up with anything
usable.
Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that require only basic
wood working skills.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Regards,
Doug
Try this link to see a great solution to your situation. I've used these
bits in the past, and they make a fantanstically strong joint if you glue
them and clamp them properly. This is where I was able to find mine, but you
may want a different size.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082373/32861/Freud-Lock-Miter-Router-Bit-12-Shank-45-degrees-1532-CL-Freud-99034.aspx
Hope this helps!
Kevin
--
The keener the eye, the better to see the target!
"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." wrote:
> I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6"
> x 7", vertical section
> is approx. 10" x 7".
>
> The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical
> i.e., angle from top of
> base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.
>
> My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any
> exterior visible evidence of
> the joint i.e., a blind joint.
--------------------------------
As others have suggested a mortise & tenon is one approach.
A blind dado is another very similar joint.
All you need is a router mounted in a table, a fence and a straight
bit.
Lew
"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." writes:
> Thanks to everyone for their comments.
>
> As R pointed out I did not completely describe the intended end
> result - which is for the
> bottom of the vertical piece to be flush with the bottom of the
> bottom piece.
>
> The model is light - so joint strength is not a concern.
>
> Also neglected to mention the power tools available are a 10"
> stationary radial arm saw
> and a table mounted router.
>
> Will try the spline joint on some scrap pieces, as that will provide
> the desired result
> and is likely within my range of capability.
---------------------------
Buy them books, they eat the covers.
You have a table mounted router with a fence.
A natural to cut a stopped dado and a tenon to produce a totally blind
joint.
No spline required.
Lew
Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr. wrote:
> All,
>
> I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x
> 7", vertical section is approx. 10" x 7".
>
> The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e.,
> angle from top of base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.
>
> My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any
> exterior visible evidence of the joint i.e., a blind joint.
>
> Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and
> learned of full blind dovetail joints - just what I need!
>
> After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint
> when the two pieces are not at right angles - was apparent my skills
> were not sufficient to end up with anything usable.
>
> Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that
> require only basic wood working skills.
>
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
Up to doing mortice & tenon? Not all that hard.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7",
> vertical section
> is approx. 10" x 7".
>
> The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e.,
> angle from top of
> base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.
>
> My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior
> visible evidence of
> the joint i.e., a blind joint.
>
> Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned
> of full blind
> dovetail joints - just what I need!
>
> After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the
> two pieces are
> not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up
> with anything
> usable.
>
> Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that
> require only basic
> wood working skills.
>
IIUC you want to join the ends of these 7" wide boards to form an italic L
shaped stand. This would be I think an easy method:
Presume you can plane the oak all round and cut a mitre in the ends to the
angle you want so the meeting surfaces are good and close? Do that then use
the incredible 'Mitre Bond' adhesive to join the boards in a few seconds.
Don't glue your hands to it. The join may seem strong but could do with some
reinforcing because the wood is bound to move and the glue won't allow that,
so from the underside carefully drill and insert screws, nails, dowels or a
combination of the three. Sand and polish, Voila!
Tim W
PS 'Mitre Bond' is the product name in the uk, used by kitchen fitters to
assemble wooden mouldings, one bottle of clear adhesive and an aerosol of
activator, you only need to hold the joint together for 60secs and it sets
very hard. Don't know what you would call it in america, probably Baboon
Glue or something.
On Nov 7, 2:50=A0pm, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." <[email protected]> wrote:
> All,
>
> I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7",=
vertical section
> is approx. 10" x 7".
>
> The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e., ang=
le from top of
> base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.
>
> My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior vi=
sible evidence of
> the joint i.e., a blind joint.
>
> Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned=
of full blind
> dovetail joints - just what I need!
>
> After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when th=
e two pieces are
> not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end u=
p with anything
> usable.
>
> Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that requ=
ire only basic
> wood working skills.
>
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
It's not entirely clear from your description whether the vertical
piece sits on top of the base, or if the bottom of the vertical piece
is flush with the bottom of the bottom piece. The bottom of the base
is hidden, right? For the first situation, you could of course just
screw up through the bottom piece, but that's pretty obvious, so it's
either not that configuration of you have some reason not to use
screws. If it's the second situation you could use pocket screws.
Hidden, strong and simple as can be.
Be aware that "strong as can be" might equate to "not strong enough"
if you have a very heavy model. Anything under five pounds should be
no problem at all.
R
On Nov 10, 1:49=A0am, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for their comments.
>
> As R pointed out I did not completely describe the intended end result - =
which is for the
> bottom of the vertical piece to be flush with the bottom of the bottom pi=
ece.
>
> The model is light - so joint strength is not a concern.
>
> Also neglected to mention the power tools available are a 10" stationary =
radial arm saw
> and a table mounted router.
>
> Will try the spline joint on some scrap pieces, as that will provide the =
desired result
> and is likely within my range of capability.
>
> Again - thanks to all for the benefit of your experience.
>
> May also try full blind dovetails on scrap pieces - just to see if I can =
do it.
Pocket screws are easier, particularly if you're doing a totally
hidden joint. Splines are fine if you want the ends to show and
you'll treat them as a decorative element. Otherwise, biscuits (can
be done with a router) or a pocket hole jig (cheap and you'll find all
sort of uses for it).
R
"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7", vertical
section
> is approx. 10" x 7".
>
> The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e., angle from
top of
> base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.
>
> My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior visible
evidence of
> the joint i.e., a blind joint.
>
> Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned of full
blind
> dovetail joints - just what I need!
>
> After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the two
pieces are
> not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up with
anything
> usable.
>
> Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that require only
basic
> wood working skills.
>
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
A dowel butt joint should fit your requirement nicely and is a good
joint for a beginner.
http://sawdustmaking.com/About%20Joints/about_joints.htm
Art
Thanks to everyone for their comments.
As R pointed out I did not completely describe the intended end result - which is for the
bottom of the vertical piece to be flush with the bottom of the bottom piece.
The model is light - so joint strength is not a concern.
Also neglected to mention the power tools available are a 10" stationary radial arm saw
and a table mounted router.
Will try the spline joint on some scrap pieces, as that will provide the desired result
and is likely within my range of capability.
Again - thanks to all for the benefit of your experience.
May also try full blind dovetails on scrap pieces - just to see if I can do it.
Regards,
Doug
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>It's not entirely clear from your description whether the vertical
>piece sits on top of the base, or if the bottom of the vertical piece
>is flush with the bottom of the bottom piece. The bottom of the base
>is hidden, right? For the first situation, you could of course just
>screw up through the bottom piece, but that's pretty obvious, so it's
>either not that configuration of you have some reason not to use
>screws. If it's the second situation you could use pocket screws.
>Hidden, strong and simple as can be.
>
>Be aware that "strong as can be" might equate to "not strong enough"
>if you have a very heavy model. Anything under five pounds should be
>no problem at all.
>
>R
Thanks Kevin - must admit to not being aware of lock miter router bits.
Will keep these in mind for future requirements.
Regards,
Doug
[email protected] wrote:
>Try this link to see a great solution to your situation. I've used these
>bits in the past, and they make a fantanstically strong joint if you glue
>them and clamp them properly. This is where I was able to find mine, but you
>may want a different size.
>http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082373/32861/Freud-Lock-Miter-Router-Bit-12-Shank-45-degrees-1532-CL-Freud-99034.aspx
>
>Hope this helps!
>Kevin
Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr. wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for their comments.
>
> As R pointed out I did not completely describe the intended end
> result - which is for the bottom of the vertical piece to be flush
> with the bottom of the bottom piece.
>
> The model is light - so joint strength is not a concern.
>
> Also neglected to mention the power tools available are a 10"
> stationary radial arm saw and a table mounted router.
>
> Will try the spline joint on some scrap pieces, as that will provide
> the desired result and is likely within my range of capability.
>
> Again - thanks to all for the benefit of your experience.
>
> May also try full blind dovetails on scrap pieces - just to see if I
> can do it.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
For what you are doing the simplest thing is:
1. Set your RAS to 15 degees and make a cut about 3/8" deep and the same
from the edge on what will be the top of the bottom. Before doing that,
bevel the bottom to 15 degrees.
2. Turn the RAS head and blade so the blade is horizontal and rip out the
excess, winding up with a rabbet which will have a horizontal bottom and a
15 degree shoulder
3. Cut matching joints in the vertical piece(s?) in a similar manner
4. Glue the pieces together. NOTE: the grain direction on the vertical
piece(s?) should be the same as the bottom.
If you don't like seeing the rabbet, you could make the vertical piece(s?)
a bit narrower than the bottom, cut off a bit of the rabbet from the bottom
and glue an edge strip on the sides of the piece(s?).
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> I am making a model display using 3/4" red oak - base is approx. 6" x 7",
> vertical section
> is approx. 10" x 7".
>
> The upright section is not vertical, it is 15 deg. off vertical i.e.,
> angle from top of
> base to face of the upright section is 105 deg.
>
> My preference is to have the two pieces connected without any exterior
> visible evidence of
> the joint i.e., a blind joint.
>
> Not being an experienced wood worker, researched the Internet and learned
> of full blind
> dovetail joints - just what I need!
>
> After finding specific instructions on how to create such a joint when the
> two pieces are
> not at right angles - was apparent my skills were not sufficient to end up
> with anything
> usable.
>
> Would appreciate any recommendations on recommended joint types that
> require only basic
> wood working skills.
Yes, the blind dovetail is a challenge and isn't a beginner's joint. I've
done them for the challenge, but quite frankly there are more reasonable
modern day approaches that can be cut with machines. For example, use
Splines.... An overly simplified description is to miter the sides to make
your corners and cut a groove along the length of the mating surfaces into
which a third piece, the spline is placed.
DAGS "wood spline joint" there are lots of references...
John