You may remember I recently asked a number of questions about problems with
my ancient Craftsman router. Well, I just bought myself a Bosch 1617EVSPK.
This has both fixed base and plunge capabilities, variable speed, accurate
height control etc. etc. I feel as though I have moved from a Model T Ford
to a Cadillac in one step! It's pretty overwhelming.
Now my skills have to catch up to the machines abilities.
I am trying to make dovetails in a drawer using my dovetailing jig (General
International 40-010). The front of the drawer(3/4") is thicker than the
sides(1/2") and have difficulty setting up. Can this jig actually handle
separate thicknesses?
Best Regards,
Jack Fearnley
While I was reading your posts on similar dovetail routing jigs, I
recall seeing the Harbor Freight jig looking alot like the jig Rockler
sells.
Rockler claims thier new one is improved with larger knobs and one
piece side stops. This is the only difference I can see.
Is the HF (on sale $29) and Rockler ($75) dovetail jig the same?
Thanks, Roy Fek
"Jack Fearnley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:q%[email protected]...
> You may remember I recently asked a number of questions about problems
> with
> my ancient Craftsman router. Well, I just bought myself a Bosch
> 1617EVSPK.
> This has both fixed base and plunge capabilities, variable speed, accurate
> height control etc. etc. I feel as though I have moved from a Model T
> Ford
> to a Cadillac in one step! It's pretty overwhelming.
>
> Now my skills have to catch up to the machines abilities.
>
> I am trying to make dovetails in a drawer using my dovetailing jig
> (General
> International 40-010). The front of the drawer(3/4") is thicker than the
> sides(1/2") and have difficulty setting up. Can this jig actually handle
> separate thicknesses?
You are not going to like this answer...
Your General jig looks identical to my Harbor Freight jig. Unequal sides
are possible on the HF, so I presume they are possible on the General. As
long as the wood is thick enough to form the pins or tails, it doesn't
really matter how thick they are; it is just a matter of adjusting the parts
to hold them properly.
That said, the difference between my new Omnijig and my old HF jig is at
least as large as the difference between your old Craftsman router and your
new Bosch.
I used the HF jig once. It took forever to set up, and even then didn't
work all that well. The Omnijig is not so easy either, but it sure beats
the HF.
I have 2 1617EVS and a 1618. I don't have the plunge base, and have never
had a use for it either; however I much prefer the 1618 to the 1617. FWIW
The thickness of the piece with the tails normally does not matter. the
thickness of the piece receiving the pins needs to be at least as thick as
the cutter depth + IMHO at least 1/8" more.
That said, what difficulty are you having setting up? Fit problems on Blind
DT's? If so remember that every DT bit has a sweet spot so to speak. You
must find that sweet spot and always use that depth setting. If your fit is
too tight, start over with new scraps and raise the bit a bit. If the fit
is too loose, start with new scraps and lower the bit a bit.
"Jack Fearnley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:q%[email protected]...
> You may remember I recently asked a number of questions about problems
> with
> my ancient Craftsman router. Well, I just bought myself a Bosch
> 1617EVSPK.
> This has both fixed base and plunge capabilities, variable speed, accurate
> height control etc. etc. I feel as though I have moved from a Model T
> Ford
> to a Cadillac in one step! It's pretty overwhelming.
>
> Now my skills have to catch up to the machines abilities.
>
> I am trying to make dovetails in a drawer using my dovetailing jig
> (General
> International 40-010). The front of the drawer(3/4") is thicker than the
> sides(1/2") and have difficulty setting up. Can this jig actually handle
> separate thicknesses?
>
> Best Regards,
> Jack Fearnley
>