I just finished watching the video "Dovetail a Drawer" by Frank Klausz. It
is totally amazing how he can make this look so easy. You can tell he has
done this before. This man "Frank Klausz" looks like he does this every day.
A true craftsman. That is why I wonder if he actually makes a living at his
trade or does he just get paid to produce videos to show us how it used to
be done. If anyone is making a living working this way I would really like
to here from you. Is there actually people that still build this way and are
actually making a living at it? Regards. -Guy
"JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> cut dovetails by hand?
> Thank You
"JOSEPH SHEA, JR." wrote:
> Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> cut dovetails by hand?
Try these. They're free I'm afraid. <BSEG> Thanks Alan, Jeff and
CharlieB.
http://home.nj.rr.com/afoust/dovetails.html
and Jeff Gorman's page,
http://www.amgron.clara.net/dovetails/dovetailindex.htm
or Charlie B's page,
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/DovetailDrawer0.html
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
Guy LaRochelle wrote:
> I just finished watching the video "Dovetail a Drawer" by Frank Klausz. It
> is totally amazing how he can make this look so easy. You can tell he has
> done this before. This man "Frank Klausz" looks like he does this every day.
> A true craftsman. That is why I wonder if he actually makes a living at his
> trade or does he just get paid to produce videos to show us how it used to
> be done. If anyone is making a living working this way I would really like
> to here from you. Is there actually people that still build this way and are
> actually making a living at it? Regards. -Guy
He is incredible. Take a look at Landis' Workbench Book, he's in
it with a description and pictures of his shop. What an ego
buster. watch his film a couple times and you don't want to ever
try cutting DTs again, 'cause you'll never be that good.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
Guy LaRochelle wrote:
>
> I just finished watching the video "Dovetail a Drawer" by Frank Klausz. It
> is totally amazing how he can make this look so easy. You can tell he has
> done this before. This man "Frank Klausz" looks like he does this every day.
> A true craftsman. That is why I wonder if he actually makes a living at his
> trade or does he just get paid to produce videos to show us how it used to
> be done. If anyone is making a living working this way I would really like
> to here from you. Is there actually people that still build this way and are
> actually making a living at it? Regards. -Guy
>
> "JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> > cut dovetails by hand?
> > Thank You
Am getting in very late on this thread but here goes.
Yes, Mr. Klausz does make his living making furniture and has been
doing
it for quite a while. There are people all over the USA who make
furniture
that utilize traditional joinery, primarily with hand tools for the
fine
work. And there are people all over the USA who apprciate fine
craftsman-
ship and fine wood furniture. Here's a friend in Driftwood Texas,
near
Austin, who has been doing just that for the last 15 or 20 years.
Last
summer he and his family delivered three pieces to a customer in
Connecticut!
www.io.com/~colca/About_Us/Michael_Colca/michael_colca.html
Back to Frank Klausz - "Making a Dovetailed Drawer" video - he covers
a lot
of ground in the video - three times in fact. AFter watching the
tape
a few times you'll be certain you can go out to the shop and cut
nearly
perfect handcut dovetails. At various steps along the way you'll
find
you forgot something - some detail thats critical and you can't
remember
what he did next or how he did it. On your 20th trip between the
shop
and the VCR you'll start making yourself some notes and sketches.
BEFORE YOU DO THAT - I've already done it and you can download the
"step by step - illustrated process - with cautionray notes etc. at
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/DovetailDrawer0.html
Each page is a GIF image file you can download and print at your
leisure. Take the printed instructions to the shop, put page or
two on the bench and do what you see. When you get to the last
page you should have a handcut dovetailed drawer that's square and
hangs together well. The joints probably won't be light tight but
that's a matter or practice ad technique.
One of the subtle things he left out which is very important is the
tight corners in the sockets If they're not cleaned out they can
have you paring the sides of pines and sockets trying to improve
the fit when it's those damn corners that're raising all the hell.
As noted before, with a router, a dovetail bit and one of the many
dovetail jigs, most dovetail work can be done by machine & jigs
much quicker and more accurately than handcuttig. But if you want
"progressive" dovetails - several fine pins at the ends, getting
wider towards the center, or if you need a strong joint on pieces
over an inch in thickness, handcutting is the only means available.
If you want speed & accuracy, get a CNC machine. If you want
subtile elegance, and a lot of satisfaction in "the doing" use
handtools on the delicate and the refined stuff. And if you just
want something to hold something up off the floor or to hide
something in - go to IKEA.
Just my 2 cents.
charlie b
Lie Nielson is selling a video Hand-cut Dovetails With Rob Cosmon. He tells
you how to prepare the saw and the stock. After viewing this video, you
should be well on your way.
If you don't care to prepare a saw properly, they will sell you saw ready to
go. :-)
"JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> cut dovetails by hand?
> Thank You
"Conan the Librarian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "fabbl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
>
> > 7) Flat bastard file, mill file and triangular mill file.
>
> If you don't mind me asking, what do you use all of these files
> for? I can't think of any part of the process that would call for
> *any* file.
A file is good for straightening a tail or pin that isn't square. You can
flaten a whole plane of the tail or pin at once. I've seen Scott Phillips
use a file to loosen a tight fit. It can be quicker than paring with a
chisel. I typically just fix it with a chisel though.
A flat bastard or mill file is useful for smoothing endgrain. It is also
useful for putting the bevel on a through tenon (as on a craftsman chair
arm).
> Chuck Vance
> Just say (tmPL) Did I mention *practice*?
I don't use a file to level the tail and pin ends. In my earlier post, I
jumped from the subject of dovetails to m&t just to mention another use for
the files. It has not been natural for me to consider the use of files in
woodworking, but Frank Klaus does use a rasp in dressing the sides of a
tenon to make them fit.
Most of the time I use a plane (often my apron plane) to clean up endgrain.
However, I have a difficult time planing the end grain on a 1 1/4" square
end (like on the end of a chair post). The file is useful in the cosmetic
clean up of end grain and chamfering through tenons. It leaves a crisp edge
(as does a nicely chiseled chamfer). The file is easier for me to control.
It also goes a long way towards creating the polished end required to make
end grain pop out as a finish is applied. Someone posted some photos
recently showing endgrain and how a polished surface really made it pop out.
I had never consciously put it together what is required to really produce
that effect.
OBTW, the folks in Waco are talking about a two week class where the Brazos
rocker will be built. They had one made out of tiger maple at the Houston
Woodworking Show. It was spectacular. The finishes on their display pieces
were remarkable at this year's show. Their finishes always have been good,
but I could see a remarkable difference.
The use of a crank-neck chisel is a good tip that I had never considered. I
guess another purchase is coming , sigh. . . . .
"Conan the Librarian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
>
> > "Conan the Librarian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
>>
> I use a plane on endgrain when I'm prepping the boards for
> dovetailing. Or do you mean for cleaning up after assembly if you cut
> them so that the pins are slightly proud of the surface?
>
> I cut mine that way and come back with a crank-neck chisel for
> final cleanup. That way I can rest the flat of the chisel on the work
> and take little slices until I get the pins flush. It leaves a really
> pretty surface. (Hint: use some blue painters masking tape to protect
> the areas around the pins when you do this. If you use a light touch,
> you nick the tape rather than the wood.)
>
>
> Chuck Vance
"Conan The Librarian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lowell Holmes wrote:
>
>
> > OBTW, the folks in Waco are talking about a two week class where the
Brazos
> > rocker will be built. They had one made out of tiger maple at the
Houston
> > Woodworking Show. It was spectacular. The finishes on their display
pieces
> > were remarkable at this year's show. Their finishes always have been
good,
> > but I could see a remarkable difference.
>
> Did you find out what they're using? BTW, one of SWMBO's co-workers
> is getting into woodworking and he heard that I did a bit, so he asked
> for advice on tools. I went into this long digression about not knowing
> what to advise him until I learned more about what type of work he would
> do, yadda, yadda.
I didn't ask because they were busy when I was there, but I will ask them.
They have used blo finishes a lot in the past. The rocking chair
instructions said to sand to 220, I suspect they went further with these
pieces.
> It turns out he had already registered to take a course at Homestead
> Heritage. So it sounds like he has some galootish tendencies, and I
> have no doubt that the fine folks in Waco will simply reinforce that. :-)
They give you a list of recommended hand tools at the first course. The list
can be purchased for not much money (compared to setting up a power shop). I
wouldn't do without my power tools, but if I had taken their class first, I
wouldn't have as many as I do. He will also be instructed in proper
sharpening techniques.
Tell him to stay away from their pastries in the deli. :-) They typically
have a lemonade and pastry break towards the middle of the afternoon.
> Chuck Vance
>
>
"fabbl" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I use the following for handmade through dovetails:
> 1) Dovetail saw
> 2) Chisel Set (1/4" to 1")
> 3) Coping Saw
So you saw most of the waste out of your dovetails before
chiseling? I've known other folks who use that technique, but I've
never really seen any advantage in it.
> 4) Right angle
> 5) Light pencil
> 6) Right angles 1:6(9.46 degrees), 1:7(8.13 degrees) or 1:8(7.12 degrees) -
> these can be home made
> 7) Flat bastard file, mill file and triangular mill file.
If you don't mind me asking, what do you use all of these files
for? I can't think of any part of the process that would call for
*any* file.
And you don't use a marking knife at any point in the process? I
always transfer the marks from tails to pins with a knife.
> 8) Wood Vise.
>
> I started with making the angle templates, 1:6 means a right triangle with a
> one unit (inch) base and 6 unit (inch) adjacent. Steeper angles are to
> fragile (say 1:5) to be practical. Use 1:6 angle for softwoods and 1:8 for
> harder woods. My templates were just right triangle cut-outs. They were the
> most flexible and I used them with the right triangle.
I "splurged" for the Lee Valley dovetail marking gages. I think
they cost $10 for a set of two. And IIRC, they are 1:6 and 1:8.
> Without going any further I can tell you these are a bitch to get good at,
> and time consuming.
Actually, they take an initial investment in time (like anything
else worth doing), but they really come down to properly thicknessing
and squaring your stock, careful marking and being able to saw to a
line.
> Blind mitered ones are even more fun. You will really
> appreciate modern technology after a few of these.
I have to admit that I haven't made any blind mitered dt's, but I
have to wonder what is the point of them, and how does a machine do
them better than by hand (how does a machine do them at all)?
> There are also considerations such as grain direction, pre-milling (if your
> smart) and pin width. I strongly suggest you use a good quarter-sawn
> selection clean at the joint. I plane and joint to 1/64th both sides of
> stock (pin and socket side). Done poorly, these may crack or twist if stress
> is misjudged, or have gaps and fit loosely.
Absolutely, and as a result, I aim for getting all my stock
*exactly* the same thickness and jointed perfectly square. I can't
say I always get there, as I do it all by hand, but that's my goal.
Anything less is asking for trouble, IMHO.
> I'll respond to this thread if your interested in more but a book is better
> and working through a few with an experienced craftsman is the best.
I'm sure there are plenty of folks who don't have the advantage of
having a craftsman work them through dt's, so feel free. I am fairly
proficient myself, but I only got that way from reading a lot, trial
and error and *practice*.
Oh, and a good dovetail saw helps.
Chuck Vance
Just say (tmPL) Did I mention *practice*?
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Conan the Librarian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > If you don't mind me asking, what do you use all of these files
> > for? I can't think of any part of the process that would call for
> > *any* file.
>
> A file is good for straightening a tail or pin that isn't square. You can
> flaten a whole plane of the tail or pin at once. I've seen Scott Phillips
> use a file to loosen a tight fit. It can be quicker than paring with a
> chisel. I typically just fix it with a chisel though.
I guess I just learned to do it with a chisel, so I never thought
about using a file for it. Maybe I'll give it a try next time I need
just a bit of touching up.
> A flat bastard or mill file is useful for smoothing endgrain. It is also
> useful for putting the bevel on a through tenon (as on a craftsman chair
> arm).
I use a plane on endgrain when I'm prepping the boards for
dovetailing. Or do you mean for cleaning up after assembly if you cut
them so that the pins are slightly proud of the surface?
I cut mine that way and come back with a crank-neck chisel for
final cleanup. That way I can rest the flat of the chisel on the work
and take little slices until I get the pins flush. It leaves a really
pretty surface. (Hint: use some blue painters masking tape to protect
the areas around the pins when you do this. If you use a light touch,
you nick the tape rather than the wood.)
Chuck Vance
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [Homestead Heritage]
>
> They give you a list of recommended hand tools at the first course. The list
> can be purchased for not much money (compared to setting up a power shop). I
> wouldn't do without my power tools, but if I had taken their class first, I
> wouldn't have as many as I do. He will also be instructed in proper
> sharpening techniques.
Do they use oil or waterstones or Scary Sharp?
As for the power and handtool thing -- I'm assuming they dimension
all the stock they use for their projects with power tools and then do
joinery with handtools. Is that about right?
> Tell him to stay away from their pastries in the deli. :-) They typically
> have a lemonade and pastry break towards the middle of the afternoon.
I'll be sure and pass that info on. :-)
Chuck Vance
Bridger <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> for infrequently used specialty chisels like that here's what I have
> been doing:
>
> get the carbon steel blade, wood handle chisels from harbor freight.
> hey, some of them have even turned out to have laminated blades...
>
> via hacksaw, torch, grinder, anvil and vise, adjust the configuration
> to suit.
>
> works for me....
I'm not much of a metalworker. :-) What I *have* done is take
some new Stanley 1/4" chisels and put a skew on them. I just used SS
for that. Having a pair of left/right skews has been handy,
especially for dovetailing.
I use them for cleaning out little crumbs between the tails and
pins, and for getting that last little bit in the corners that can
keep dovetails from closing up properly.
Chuck Vance
I used:-
'The Complete Dovetail - Handmade Furniture's Signature Joint' by Ian
Kirby. I'm happy with my cutting although my spacing sometimes annoys
me afterwards. I use an Akeda jig from time to time for speed but the
handmade joints still give a thrill when they turn out right.
The book is $14.95 and from Linden Publishing
Regards
Paul
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 17:25:16 GMT, "JOSEPH SHEA, JR."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
>cut dovetails by hand?
>Thank You
A public library comes to mind
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> cut dovetails by hand?
> Thank You
I use the following for handmade through dovetails:
1) Dovetail saw
2) Chisel Set (1/4" to 1")
3) Coping Saw
4) Right angle
5) Light pencil
6) Right angles 1:6(9.46 degrees), 1:7(8.13 degrees) or 1:8(7.12 degrees) -
these can be home made
7) Flat bastard file, mill file and triangular mill file.
8) Wood Vise.
I started with making the angle templates, 1:6 means a right triangle with a
one unit (inch) base and 6 unit (inch) adjacent. Steeper angles are to
fragile (say 1:5) to be practical. Use 1:6 angle for softwoods and 1:8 for
harder woods. My templates were just right triangle cut-outs. They were the
most flexible and I used them with the right triangle.
Without going any further I can tell you these are a bitch to get good at,
and time consuming. Blind mitered ones are even more fun. You will really
appreciate modern technology after a few of these.
There are also considerations such as grain direction, pre-milling (if your
smart) and pin width. I strongly suggest you use a good quarter-sawn
selection clean at the joint. I plane and joint to 1/64th both sides of
stock (pin and socket side). Done poorly, these may crack or twist if stress
is misjudged, or have gaps and fit loosely.
I'll respond to this thread if your interested in more but a book is better
and working through a few with an experienced craftsman is the best.
The April 2004 issue of Fine Woodworking has a nice little tutorial on
hand cutting dovetails in the Heirloom Tool Chest project starting on
page 36.
Tim
Dave W wrote:
> Fine Woodworking has had numerous articles over the past 25 years. Check
> out the on-line index.
> Dave
> "JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
>>cut dovetails by hand?
>>Thank You
>
>
>
--
No BoomBoom for me! - [email protected]
I like "Dovetail a Drawer by Frank Klausz" (Amazon listing). I got it from
my local library if you want a cheaper route.
Mike
"JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> cut dovetails by hand?
> Thank You
Lowell Holmes wrote:
> I don't use a file to level the tail and pin ends. In my earlier post, I
> jumped from the subject of dovetails to m&t just to mention another use for
> the files. It has not been natural for me to consider the use of files in
> woodworking, but Frank Klaus does use a rasp in dressing the sides of a
> tenon to make them fit.
Yeah, I tend to use a small file for touching up tenons, and I use a
cabinetmakers rasp some in curved work, but I have a whole bunch of
files that basically sit unused.
> Most of the time I use a plane (often my apron plane) to clean up endgrain.
> However, I have a difficult time planing the end grain on a 1 1/4" square
> end (like on the end of a chair post). The file is useful in the cosmetic
> clean up of end grain and chamfering through tenons. It leaves a crisp edge
> (as does a nicely chiseled chamfer). The file is easier for me to control.
Fair enough.
> It also goes a long way towards creating the polished end required to make
> end grain pop out as a finish is applied. Someone posted some photos
> recently showing endgrain and how a polished surface really made it pop out.
> I had never consciously put it together what is required to really produce
> that effect.
Do you not have luck using a plane for that effect? I have found
that (on a good day) I can get an endgrain surface that looks almost
burnished. Of course for boxes that are assembled, that's when I use
the crankneck chisel.
> OBTW, the folks in Waco are talking about a two week class where the Brazos
> rocker will be built. They had one made out of tiger maple at the Houston
> Woodworking Show. It was spectacular. The finishes on their display pieces
> were remarkable at this year's show. Their finishes always have been good,
> but I could see a remarkable difference.
Did you find out what they're using? BTW, one of SWMBO's co-workers
is getting into woodworking and he heard that I did a bit, so he asked
for advice on tools. I went into this long digression about not knowing
what to advise him until I learned more about what type of work he would
do, yadda, yadda.
It turns out he had already registered to take a course at Homestead
Heritage. So it sounds like he has some galootish tendencies, and I
have no doubt that the fine folks in Waco will simply reinforce that. :-)
> The use of a crank-neck chisel is a good tip that I had never considered. I
> guess another purchase is coming , sigh. . . . .
You say that like it's a bad thing. :-) I think I got mine from
Garrett Wade. It's a "short-bladed" 1/2" crank-neck chisel by Taylor,
and cost about $40. I assume you could also look for old crank-necks.
Some folks are making cheaper versions with skews and such, but they
look to me like specialty tools with limited usefulness. The Taylor
chisel works great for cleaning up plugs, dt's, cleaning the bottom of
dados, etc.
Chuck Vance
fabbl wrote:
> The flat bastard file takes more wood off and sometimes I need that,
> especially if your going to saw out waste. The triangular fill gets at the
> base of the pins and the mill file is for final smoothing.
"Smoothing" as in smoothing the insides of the pins or the ends
after glueup?
> I score the wood with the chisels - where I need to. It's riskier but I've
> become accustomed to it and works fine.
Ah, that reminds me of Frid's techniwue of using a plane iron to
score his dt's. I don't know that I'd have the balls to try it. :-) A
marking knife seems plenty adequate.
>> I "splurged" for the Lee Valley dovetail marking gages. I think
>>they cost $10 for a set of two. And IIRC, they are 1:6 and 1:8.
>
> If I happen to see these in the store I'll get them. I an electrical
> engineer (my real job) and liked figuring the angles versus stress for
> varying wood densities. You could make a real science of this.
Some already have. :-) FWIW, here's a link to the Lee Valley dt
marking thingies:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32586&category=1,42936&ccurrency=2&SID=
Handy little buggers.
> With the above tools, playing hit/miss and many hours in my basement I came
> to the conclusion these just weren't like dado' or mortise/tenon.
Actually, I think getting good m&t joints is harder than dt's. But
that might just be me.
> I would
> have loved to work with someone at first, i'm sure they would have save me
> much time. Some of the books I read just recommended power tools for
> dovetails.
Yeah, I almost gave up on them before I even started. But I was
lucky enough to run across some galootish types who helped steer me in
the right direction.
> I always felt if you were at 1/32 or less end to end after letting it sit
> overnight you were doing well. Again, I like quarter sawn stock that looks
> good at the yard (yea right!). I bought a planer/jointer just to prep the
> wood, my schedule won't allow for hand planing or jointing. Maybe some day I
> will.
I make it fit into my schedule on individual projects. Since it's a
hobby first and foremost, SWMBO is (reasonably) understanding
(sometimes) when I tell her (often) that I won't have this project done
in just a couple of days (weeks) because first I have to thickness,
surface, rip and joint the wood. :-) For me, it's all part of the
process.
> [what's needed to cut dovetails well by hand]
>
> yep - practice (lotsa)
I hope that folks who haven't tried them realize that dt's aren't
some sort of mystical, master Zen-woodworker sort of process. If you
can square up a piece of wood, transfer some marks accurately, saw to a
line, and have reasonable chisel skills, you can make fine dovetails.
But many hobbyist woodworkers don't bother to acquire some or all of
those basic skills, and thus the need for practice.
Chuck Vance
> So you saw most of the waste out of your dovetails before
> chiseling? I've known other folks who use that technique, but I've
> never really seen any advantage in it.
>
Yes, I've used chisels you could shave with and in some woods have gotten
spliting at the ends and excessive burring. I am aware of people who swear
by it.
> If you don't mind me asking, what do you use all of these files
> for? I can't think of any part of the process that would call for
> *any* file.
>
The flat bastard file takes more wood off and sometimes I need that,
especially if your going to saw out waste. The triangular fill gets at the
base of the pins and the mill file is for final smoothing.
> And you don't use a marking knife at any point in the process? I
> always transfer the marks from tails to pins with a knife.
I score the wood with the chisels - where I need to. It's riskier but I've
become accustomed to it and works fine.
> I "splurged" for the Lee Valley dovetail marking gages. I think
> they cost $10 for a set of two. And IIRC, they are 1:6 and 1:8.
>
If I happen to see these in the store I'll get them. I an electrical
engineer (my real job) and liked figuring the angles versus stress for
varying wood densities. You could make a real science of this.
> Actually, they take an initial investment in time (like anything
> else worth doing), but they really come down to properly thicknessing
> and squaring your stock, careful marking and being able to saw to a
> line.
>
With the above tools, playing hit/miss and many hours in my basement I came
to the conclusion these just weren't like dado' or mortise/tenon. I would
have loved to work with someone at first, i'm sure they would have save me
much time. Some of the books I read just recommended power tools for
dovetails.
>
> I have to admit that I haven't made any blind mitered dt's, but I
> have to wonder what is the point of them, and how does a machine do
> them better than by hand (how does a machine do them at all)?
>
The point of those is to get the strong joint while hiding it. I have seen
them in some cabinet plans. I thought they might sell a router bit for that,
but I haven't checked yet. This is where a good sharp chisel comes in handy.
> Absolutely, and as a result, I aim for getting all my stock
> *exactly* the same thickness and jointed perfectly square. I can't
> say I always get there, as I do it all by hand, but that's my goal.
> Anything less is asking for trouble, IMHO.
>
I always felt if you were at 1/32 or less end to end after letting it sit
overnight you were doing well. Again, I like quarter sawn stock that looks
good at the yard (yea right!). I bought a planer/jointer just to prep the
wood, my schedule won't allow for hand planing or jointing. Maybe some day I
will.
> I'm sure there are plenty of folks who don't have the advantage of
> having a craftsman work them through dt's, so feel free. I am fairly
> proficient myself, but I only got that way from reading a lot, trial
> and error and *practice*.
>
> Oh, and a good dovetail saw helps.
>
>
> Chuck Vance
> Just say (tmPL) Did I mention *practice*?
yep - practice (lotsa)
Fine Woodworking has had numerous articles over the past 25 years. Check
out the on-line index.
Dave
"JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> cut dovetails by hand?
> Thank You
>> The use of a crank-neck chisel is a good tip that I had never considered. I
>> guess another purchase is coming , sigh. . . . .
>
> You say that like it's a bad thing. :-) I think I got mine from
>Garrett Wade. It's a "short-bladed" 1/2" crank-neck chisel by Taylor,
>and cost about $40. I assume you could also look for old crank-necks.
>
> Some folks are making cheaper versions with skews and such, but they
>look to me like specialty tools with limited usefulness. The Taylor
>chisel works great for cleaning up plugs, dt's, cleaning the bottom of
>dados, etc.
>
>
> Chuck Vance
>
for infrequently used specialty chisels like that here's what I have
been doing:
get the carbon steel blade, wood handle chisels from harbor freight.
hey, some of them have even turned out to have laminated blades...
via hacksaw, torch, grinder, anvil and vise, adjust the configuration
to suit.
works for me....
cant tell ya where to find articles but lee valley sells a nice little jig
for dovetails and works real well - speeds up the process and improves the
fit immensely.
"JOSEPH SHEA, JR." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone advise where to find instructions / books on how to setup and
> cut dovetails by hand?
> Thank You