Swingman wrote:
> On a 1 3/4 to 2" " table leg, I generally make my mortises about 1"
> deep ... maybe a little deeper for thicker table legs, or when I want
> to miter the ends of the opposing tenons.
>
> In any case, make the mortise about 1/16 - 1/8" deeper than the tenon
> that is going into it.
How do you make the deep mortises? A dedicated mortiser? I looked for
a 1/4" router bit for deep mortises in 3/4" stock and the deepest
cutting depth I could find was 1". And that was with a 1/4" shank!
--
It's turtles, all the way down
I do believe the rule of thumb is the "thirds method."
The tenons length should be about 2/3 the width of the material you're
joining.
The size and application drives the descision. Bigger tenons offer more glue
surface, however, this is nomally a cross grain joint, and may not be the
correct approch.
I'm curious if anyone has some reference sites, or tables.
"John B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have generally made mortices and tenon joints about an inch and a half
>deep, but I was wating a show on tv where they made them only about 3/4".
>Is there some rule of thumb?
>
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"lucky4fingers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "John B" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I have generally made mortices and tenon joints about an inch and a
>> half deep, but I was wating a show on tv where they made them only
>> about 3/4". Is there some rule of thumb?
>>
>>
>
> My rule of thumb says 3"or 6 ft. whichever is more.
Deep enough to hold the shoulder of the tenoned piece tightly to the face of
the mortised board for framing, deep enough to carry a load if structural.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "George" <George@least> wrote in message
>>
>> Deep enough to hold the shoulder of the tenoned piece tightly to the face
> of
>> the mortised board for framing, deep enough to carry a load if
>> structural.
>
> Excuse me for saying so, but that doesn't answer his question in the
> least.
> It goes without saying that one would want a mortise and tenon to meet
> those
> criteria.
>
> I'm hoping there's some study somewhere that correlates the depth of a
> tenon
> to the thickness of a rail or some similar variable as well as taking into
> account the type of wood used and the application that the project is
> designed to fill. Not having used mortise and tenon joinery yet, I'd be
> interested in getting specific depth and thickness advise.
>
>
Sorry, the real answer has been given.
However, for you, the mortise depth should not exceed the total of the depth
of wood into which it is made. After that point, it's another joint.
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
> Swingman wrote:
>
> > On a 1 3/4 to 2" " table leg, I generally make my mortises about 1"
> > deep ... maybe a little deeper for thicker table legs, or when I want
> > to miter the ends of the opposing tenons.
> >
> > In any case, make the mortise about 1/16 - 1/8" deeper than the tenon
> > that is going into it.
>
> How do you make the deep mortises? A dedicated mortiser? I looked for
> a 1/4" router bit for deep mortises in 3/4" stock and the deepest
> cutting depth I could find was 1". And that was with a 1/4" shank!
I have a dedicated mortiser, but you might want to consider going to 3/8. I
have an Amana (51304) 3/8" that will cut to 1 1/2" deep.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> How do you make the deep mortises? A dedicated mortiser? I looked for
> a 1/4" router bit for deep mortises in 3/4" stock and the deepest
> cutting depth I could find was 1". And that was with a 1/4" shank!
>
Without a dedicated mortiser, the procedure goes roughly like this:
-Mark the mortise out with a marking knife or scalpel.
-Set a drill press to the final depth of the mortise, and drill outmost of the
waste. I tend to mark a centre line, then use a drill size that is very near
the full width of the mortise, overlapping the holes so I start the next hole
just into the firm timber next to the last hole. Helps to have wood bits with a
centre spur for this, or Fostner bits(sp?).
-Using a sharp firmer chisel, clean out the rest of the waste from the centre.
-Clean up the sides of the mortise with a very sharp flat chisel. The knife
cuts will help getting started in exactly the right place, and prevent tear-
out. It is a good idea to have the tenon finished by now so you can try the
fit from time to time. It should slide in, but be seated firmly, not rattle
around. O.t.o.h. you should not have to DRIVE it home.
The strongest joint is achieved by having a shoulder on each face of the
tenoned member -- this also lowers the demands on 100% accuracy when cleaning
out the mortise ;-)
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
"John B" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I have generally made mortices and tenon joints about an inch and a
> half deep, but I was wating a show on tv where they made them only
> about 3/4". Is there some rule of thumb?
>
>
My rule of thumb says 3"or 6 ft. whichever is more.
"George" <George@least> wrote in message
>
> Deep enough to hold the shoulder of the tenoned piece tightly to the face
of
> the mortised board for framing, deep enough to carry a load if structural.
Excuse me for saying so, but that doesn't answer his question in the least.
It goes without saying that one would want a mortise and tenon to meet those
criteria.
I'm hoping there's some study somewhere that correlates the depth of a tenon
to the thickness of a rail or some similar variable as well as taking into
account the type of wood used and the application that the project is
designed to fill. Not having used mortise and tenon joinery yet, I'd be
interested in getting specific depth and thickness advise.
Larry Blanchard (in [email protected]) said:
| Swingman wrote:
|
|| On a 1 3/4 to 2" " table leg, I generally make my mortises about 1"
|| deep ... maybe a little deeper for thicker table legs, or when I
|| want to miter the ends of the opposing tenons.
||
|| In any case, make the mortise about 1/16 - 1/8" deeper than the
|| tenon that is going into it.
|
| How do you make the deep mortises? A dedicated mortiser? I looked
| for a 1/4" router bit for deep mortises in 3/4" stock and the
| deepest cutting depth I could find was 1". And that was with a
| 1/4" shank!
Larry...
I just happened to have my catalog open. I wouldn't suggest using them
in a freehand router; but you can get 1/4" x up to 6"OAL solid carbide
up-spirals from www.kbctools.com (see their catalog page 169).
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Design considerations will influence this choice - Craftsman style furniture
will often use through tenons or bridle joints (open cortices). More glue area
is better, but once you get a joint stronger than the surrounding wood, more
strength doesn't really add anything. I'm referencing an article that compared
the strength of different joints - tenons, biscuits, dowels, etc. in
constructing a door. Even a stub tenon (5/8" deep) was surprisingly strong - the
joint failed when the stile split apart. The advantage of a deeper tenon is more
glue area to distribute the forces over, and a joint that has inherent
mechanical strength even if the glue fails.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
"Upscale" wrote in message
> I'm hoping there's some study somewhere that correlates the depth of a
tenon
> to the thickness of a rail or some similar variable as well as taking into
> account the type of wood used and the application that the project is
> designed to fill. Not having used mortise and tenon joinery yet, I'd be
> interested in getting specific depth and thickness advise.
A general "rule-of-thumb": Traditionally the depth of a non-through mortise
is about 3/4 the width of the leg or stile.
Depends on a number of things, the size of the workpiece in which the
mortise is being cut, whether you are using joinery like mitered tenons,
etc.
On a 1 3/4 to 2" " table leg, I generally make my mortises about 1" deep ...
maybe a little deeper for thicker table legs, or when I want to miter the
ends of the opposing tenons.
In any case, make the mortise about 1/16 - 1/8" deeper than the tenon that
is going into it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05