This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...
Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.
On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> > Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
> >> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> >=20
> >> Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
> >> screws with Titebond.
> >=20
> > Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
>=20
> Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the=
=20
> faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of=20
> pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.=20
> The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.
>=20
> I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the=20
> process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false=20
> fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place=
=20
> to grab them.
I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw dust ge=
ts in=20
the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.
1/4=E2=80=9D ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.
On Friday, October 4, 2019 at 1:24:33 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
> ... I want drawers from the bench
> top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
> long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
> boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
> with snap ring tools, etc...
My preference would be for the inexpensive 'shoebox' plastic bins, on
shelves, but if you want drawers: figure on three different sizes.
Deep 'uns for power tools, shallow 'uns for watch-repair goods, and
something inbetween.
Then think if you can substitute plastic-drawer-set things for the small size,
and muse on the appropriate depth of drawers for assorted fasteners...
Anyhow, that's why I haven't wanted to make a big drawer cabinet: it's
too easy to buy one that doesn't quite fit, or adapt the mass-produced
options. And, impossible to imagine a system that works much better.
Maybe your imagination is better than mine.
"Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 18:01:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>
>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>
>I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
>slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
>from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic
>equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
>weighs 60 lbs.
>
>The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you
>find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled
>mounting holes.
Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
angle iron, just setting there ...
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 14:36:20 -0700, Bob La Londe <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>>>> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
>>>> and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
>>>> top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx
>>>> 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>>>
>>>> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
>>>> bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
>>>> not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
>>>> roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
>>>> parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...
>>>>
>>>> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>>>> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
>>>> three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
>>>> I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
>>>> about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
>>>> decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
>>>> I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
>>>> drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
>>>> same way.
>>>>
>>>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
>>>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>>>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>>>
>>>
>>> Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
>>> cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs
>>> fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also
>>> I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the
>>> same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made
>>> out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of
>>> consideration. Thanks everybody.
>>
>> If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some
>> myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The
>> second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above
>> pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet
>> metal bins for the lighter stuff.
>>
>>
>
>I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as
>well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase
>the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.
Stanley-Vidmar and Lista can be had if you are diligent about
searching for it. I picked up some last year..(3) 5' drawer cabinets
for $500 total. Ive got em wedged into the maint shop.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TVfPeexd3fBzN7Wh7
That being said..at home..I still use the old IBM punch card filing
cabinets for storing "stuff". They can be cut in half and wedged under
benches..shrug.
I think I have 9 of them now...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ACVLvHNVwKKMZsoT9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MWqrCWLJzumgANrX7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSHXQMkWdouAsxAQA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UEiytz6JZacyUVwU7
https://goo.gl/photos/u2zdG8Yy5z1mSQpW9
Gunner
__
"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.
No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.
Which is a very good thing."
Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.
--
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On 10/11/2019 4:49 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:Vm%[email protected]...
>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>>>> Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
>>>>>>> easier.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>>>> plywood
>>>>>> pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
>>>>>> router in
>>>>>> this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>>>
>>>>> I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
>>>>
>>>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>>>
>>>
>>> How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
>>
>> Answering a question with a question?
>>
>> Simple. You have 16 3/4" thick baltic birch plywood pieces, say
>> 12" x 18".
>> Stack them one atop the next; now you have a stack of plywood 12"
>> thick.
>> (Assumption: The drawers are 18" square with 12" high sides; the
>> number of
>> sides in the stack must be congruent to zero modulo four).
>>
>> Split the stack in half (because you need two different crenellation
>> patterns
>> for them to join correctly). Now you have two stacks 6" thick.
>>
>> Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
>> shifting.
>> Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
>> surface such that the
>> end you're routing is horizontal).
>>
>> Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
>> away. Offset the
>> jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to cut the
>> matching joint.
>>
>> [*] The most basic being a simple fence and some spacer blocks you
>> can add
>> as you move the router from slot to slot.
>>
>> Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and
>> clamp.
>
> You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
> thick stack without chatter or deflection.
>
>
I once ran a 15 HP pin router that could eat wood very fast.
It took that monster at least a minute to come up to speed IIRC.
On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 5:07:26 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> > Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
> >>
> >>>
> >>
> >> I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
> >> drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
> >> drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but
> >> making a hundred of them sure does.
> >>
> >
> > If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
> > build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
> > stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
> > edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and route away.
> >
> > May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.
> >
>
>
> I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
> advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole screws.
A simple jig would solve the shifting force issue. Just a "right angled slot" screwed to a
plywood base all you'd need to hold the drawer side in place as you screw. Kind of like
a raised dado in the shape of a drawer.
"Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
>>>> drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
>>>> drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long,
>>>> but
>>>> making a hundred of them sure does.
>>>>
>>>
>>> If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
>>> build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
>>> stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
>>> edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
>>> route away.
>>>
>>> May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
>> advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole
>> screws.
>
>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
>
I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the router in
this case and keep the material stationary.
[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
"Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
>>>
>>
>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
>> pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
>> router in
>> this case and keep the material stationary.
>>
>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>
>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
"Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:Vm%[email protected]...
>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>> plywood
>>>> pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
>>>> router in
>>>> this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>
>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>
>>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
>>
>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>
>
>How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
Answering a question with a question?
Simple. You have 16 3/4" thick baltic birch plywood pieces, say 12" x 18".
Stack them one atop the next; now you have a stack of plywood 12" thick.
(Assumption: The drawers are 18" square with 12" high sides; the number of
sides in the stack must be congruent to zero modulo four).
Split the stack in half (because you need two different crenellation patterns
for them to join correctly). Now you have two stacks 6" thick.
Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical surface such that the
end you're routing is horizontal).
Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout away. Offset the
jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to cut the matching joint.
[*] The most basic being a simple fence and some spacer blocks you can add
as you move the router from slot to slot.
Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and clamp.
On Thu, 10 Oct 2019 15:43:03 GMT, [email protected] (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:
>Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>
>>Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
>>screws with Titebond.
>
>Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
>
Ayup.
__
"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.
No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.
Which is a very good thing."
Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
>screws with Titebond.
Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
On Sat, 05 Oct 2019 09:17:32 -0700, pyotr filipivich
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Leon Fisk <[email protected]> on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 16:38:54 -0400
>typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700
>>Bob La Londe <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>>>about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
>>>replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
>>>bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
>>>Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>>
>>>Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
>>>top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
>>>long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
>>>boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
>>>with snap ring tools, etc...
>>>
>>>Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>>>probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
>>>Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
>>>like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
>>>drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
>>>brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
>>>the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
>>>which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>>>
>>>I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
>>>they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
>>>I like, or way to expensive.
>>
>>My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15.
>
> Mine is a solid core door. Actually, I have two, free for the
>hauling.
> And two more which are top and bottom half of a "Dutch door"
>configuration.
> Now if I just had the space to deploy all of them.
Two of mine are solid core doors. The one I use for assembly has a
3/4" sheet of melamine as a "dress" top. The benches are wrapped in a
1x4" ash band, holding the finished top in place (glued to the door,
not the "dress" top. The other, for cutting (track saw, usually) has
a loose MDF top that sits 1/4" proud of the banding. The "dress" tops
of both are loose, so they can be replaced easily.
>>Has a large shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice
>>sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice
>>(Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my
>>workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my
>>desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools...
>>and still work great.
>
> Neat.
>>So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that
>>satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items.
>
> I've several sizes of file cabinets. Two of the two drawer size
>work well to hold "Yet Another Door" bench top. That one is in the
>back serving as a shelf for storage.
I've done that for my computer desk, in the past. The one I have now
just has hair pin legs. I wish I could find a decent used office
furniture store. All of the used office furniture I've seen lately is
incredibly expensive. The crap the office stores sells would never
hold up in a shop.
On Friday, October 4, 2019 at 4:24:33 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
> replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
> bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
> Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
> top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
> long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
> boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
> with snap ring tools, etc...
>
> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
> Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
> like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
> drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
> brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
> the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
> which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
> they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
> I like, or way to expensive.
re: "I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers."
Pocket hole jig?
re: "Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance...
Buy sheet goods in the material of your choice, build as many carcasses as
you want, slap together a bunch of drawer boxes and mount on heavy-duty, full
extension slides. You could even pocket hole some 1/2" ply for really strong
bottoms.
re: "Appearance is a non issue for me."
If that's true, then you don't even need drawer fronts, although they would
serve to keep dust and debris out or the drawers and from mucking up the
slides.
re: "with cost coming in at number three."
Custom fit, no "adapting" of something that already exists and you pick the
price point based on material choice.
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 2:05:44 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/11/2019 3:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:> On Thursday, October 10, 2019=
=20
> at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
> >> On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> >>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
> >>>> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocke=
t
> >>>> screws with Titebond.
> >>>
> >>> Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
> >>
> >> Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in t=
he
> >> faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
> >> pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old=
.
> >> The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.
> >>
> >> I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
> >> process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
> >> fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a pl=
ace
> >> to grab them.
> >
> > I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw=20
> dust gets in
> > the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.
> >
> > 1/4=E2=80=9D ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.
> >
>=20
> Metal dust and chips would be worse probably. Good point. Although=20
> most of the metal chips are made in a different room of the shop. I=20
> could even have them sliced up at the box store to save myself some time.
Cutting time saved but replaced by sanding time.
The last time I had plywood cut down at a big box store I could have used=
=20
the edge splinters as tooth picks.
Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>
> >
>
>I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
>drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
>drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but
>making a hundred of them sure does.
>
If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and route away.
May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.
On 10/4/2019 4:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about
> removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing
> them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench.
> Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that
> part is definitely metalworking.
>
> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top
> to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long
> drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes
> and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap
> ring tools, etc...
>
> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably
> rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all
> drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make
> them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or
> folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and
> various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood
> working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I
> go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
> they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I
> like, or way to expensive.
For 54' of drawers, I'd take neither of the routes you named. I'd go
straight to an industrial source of pre-fabricated drawers and buy what I
need and then adapt the framework of the bench to suit. Maybe in the case
of some that need to be extra strong I might do some reinforcement but no
more than absolutely necessary. Metal drawer boxes with decent slides are
already plenty strong for most uses.
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 18:23:40 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> ...
>> I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might
>> as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have
>> to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.
>>
>
>I would have suggested making plywood drawers with slides and perhaps
>faces of red oak, which I spent the summer sawing into planks and
>beams for future projects. However this morning I saw a 3' red oak
>stair tread in a hardware store priced at $35, and larger ones up to
>$48.
That's ludicrous.
The local hardwood yard has 5/4 red oak for 4.50 a board foot.
Leon Fisk <[email protected]> on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 16:38:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700
>Bob La Londe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>>about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
>>replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
>>bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
>>Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>
>>Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
>>top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
>>long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
>>boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
>>with snap ring tools, etc...
>>
>>Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>>probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
>>Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
>>like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
>>drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
>>brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
>>the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
>>which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>>
>>I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
>>they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
>>I like, or way to expensive.
>
>My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15.
Mine is a solid core door. Actually, I have two, free for the
hauling.
And two more which are top and bottom half of a "Dutch door"
configuration.
Now if I just had the space to deploy all of them.
>Has a large shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice
>sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice
>(Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my
>workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my
>desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools...
>and still work great.
Neat.
>So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that
>satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items.
I've several sizes of file cabinets. Two of the two drawer size
work well to hold "Yet Another Door" bench top. That one is in the
back serving as a shelf for storage.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."
On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700, Bob La Londe <[email protected]>
wrote:
>This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
>replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
>bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
>Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
>Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
>top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
>long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
>boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
>with snap ring tools, etc...
>
>Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
>Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
>like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
>drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
>brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
>the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
>which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
>I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
>they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
>I like, or way to expensive.
Wood will be cheaper and easier. Metal will last forever.
__
"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.
No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.
Which is a very good thing."
Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700, Bob La Londe <[email protected]>
wrote:
>This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
>replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
>bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
>Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
>Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
>top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
>long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
>boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
>with snap ring tools, etc...
>
>Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
>Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
>like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
>drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
>brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
>the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
>which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
>I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
>they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
>I like, or way to expensive.
I have made my drawers out of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. On the sides
I cut a 1/4 inch dado a 1/4" in from the edge, the front and back dado
cut leaving a 1/4" x 1/4" tongue. Sides and backs get a 1/4" dado a
1/4" in from the bottom edge, the bottom gets wait for it a 1/4"
removed all around. Glue and nail together, make a stronger bottom
than just 1/4" ply.
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
> replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
> bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
> Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
> top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
> long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
> boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
> with snap ring tools, etc...
>
> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
> Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
> like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
> drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
> brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
> the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
> which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
> they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
> I like, or way to expensive.
P.S. Yes this is cross posted. On purpose, but only because they are
related groups regarding this project.
On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700
Bob La Londe <[email protected]> wrote:
>This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
>replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
>bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
>Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
>Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
>top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
>long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
>boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
>with snap ring tools, etc...
>
>Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
>Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
>like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
>drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
>brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
>the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
>which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
>I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
>they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
>I like, or way to expensive.
My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15. Has a large
shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice
sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice
(Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my
workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my
desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools...
and still work great.
So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that
satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items.
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
On 04/10/2019 21:24, Bob La Londe wrote:
> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
> and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top
> work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54'
> long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
> top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
> long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away
> tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap
> rings with snap ring tools, etc...
>
> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
> three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I
> would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about
> wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent
> finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also
> have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.Â
> No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
Have a look at office equipment filing cabinets as they come in various
draw depths and heights. I have about 7, 4 of which fit under my bench
nicely for storing various tool categories and the other 3 about the
same height form a work storage surface and I store various items in the
drawers. I have another smaller cabinet which has drawers about 1" deep
and 10" wide which I store things like taps, dies, reamers, drills, and
many other items in. All where acquired free as they were being chucked
out and I was in the right place at the right time.
"David Billington" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>On 04/10/2019 21:24, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about
>> removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
>> replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
>> bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
>> Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>
>> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top
>> to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long
>> drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes
>> and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with
>> snap ring tools, etc...
>>
>> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
>> Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like
>> to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or
>> folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and
>> various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood
>> working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way
>> I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>>
>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
>> they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
>> I like, or way to expensive.
>
>Have a look at office equipment filing cabinets as they come in various
>draw depths and heights. I have about 7, 4 of which fit under my bench
>nicely for storing various tool categories and the other 3 about the same
>height form a work storage surface and I store various items in the
>drawers. I have another smaller cabinet which has drawers about 1" deep and
>10" wide which I store things like taps, dies, reamers, drills, and many
>other items in. All where acquired free as they were being chucked out and
>I was in the right place at the right time.
Along those lines I used to work about 10 miles from the State of Maryland
surplus store and got sent up there once to get some used filing cabinets
for our offices. They had many, many filing cabinets for sale at cheap
prices, both 2 and 4 drawer models. I just had to pick through them looking
for the nicest ones, but I didn't have to find matching units. Some
universities also have surplus stores if you live near a large campus.
Maybe alternate 2 or 3 regular drawer units that you build with 1 or 2
filing cabinets for deep drawers, then more regular drawers. Throw in a
full height knee hole every so often for roll-around equipment or a
workstation.
--
Regards,
Carl Ijames
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
> and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
> top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.
> Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
> bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
> not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
> roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
> parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...
>
> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
> three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
> I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
> about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
> decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
> I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
> drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
> same way.
>
> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic
equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
weighs 60 lbs.
The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you
find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled
mounting holes.
https://www.ebay.com/b/Stanley-Vidmar-Warehouse-Bins-Cabinets/57005/bn_59489414
On 04/10/2019 23:01, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
>> and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
>> top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.
>> Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>
>> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
>> bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
>> not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
>> roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
>> parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...
>>
>> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
>> three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
>> I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
>> about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
>> decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
>> I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
>> drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
>> same way.
>>
>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
> I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
> slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
> from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic
> equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
> weighs 60 lbs.
Might be like these which I used recently on a sliding table for cutting
glass
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Heavy-Duty-Drawer-Slide---500mm-Pack-of-2/p/103525
. They seem to be the same as those in the 19" rack unit I converted
into a drink cabinet, kept the slides, replaced the metal shelves with
laminated glass.
>
> The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you
> find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled
> mounting holes.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/b/Stanley-Vidmar-Warehouse-Bins-Cabinets/57005/bn_59489414
>
>
"John McGaw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gY%[email protected]...
> On 10/4/2019 4:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
>> and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
>> top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.
>> Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>
>> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
>> bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
>> not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
>> roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
>> parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...
>>
>> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
>> three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
>> I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
>> about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
>> decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
>> I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
>> drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
>> same way.
>>
>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>
> For 54' of drawers, I'd take neither of the routes you named. I'd go
> straight to an industrial source of pre-fabricated drawers and buy
> what I need and then adapt the framework of the bench to suit. Maybe
> in the case of some that need to be extra strong I might do some
> reinforcement but no more than absolutely necessary. Metal drawer
> boxes with decent slides are already plenty strong for most uses.
In the 1980's I rearranged my shop and bought some cheap yard sale
painted wooden chests of drawers to cut down for temporary tool and
pipe fitting storage under a bench, until I found something better.
The knobs broke and needed stronger replacements but the drawers stood
up to heavy loads very well.
On Sat, 05 Oct 2019 09:17:32 -0700
pyotr filipivich <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
>angle iron, just setting there ...
Bed frame can be some really nasty stuff to cut and drill. Supposedly
the dregs of metal mixtures. You may drill a hole or two just fine and
then another in the same piece is hard enough to ruin the drill bit...
So plan on it being a hassle and maybe you'll get lucky :)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
"pyotr filipivich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> on Fri, 4 Oct 2019
> 18:01:54 -0400
> typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>
>>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the
>>> bench,
>>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>>
>>I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
>>slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
>>from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for
>>electronic
>>equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
>>weighs 60 lbs.
>>
>>The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If
>>you
>>find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the
>>pre-drilled
>>mounting holes.
>
> Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
> angle iron, just setting there ...
>
> --
> pyotr filipivich
> "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."
Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon
content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with.
http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-of-recycling-used-train-tracks/
"Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "pyotr filipivich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> on Fri, 4 Oct 2019
>> 18:01:54 -0400
>> typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>>
>>>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the
>>>> bench,
>>>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>>>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>>>
>>>I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
>>>slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves
>>>cut
>>>from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for
>>>electronic
>>>equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
>>>weighs 60 lbs.
>>>
>>>The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If
>>>you
>>>find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the
>>>pre-drilled
>>>mounting holes.
>>
>> Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
>> angle iron, just setting there ...
>>
>> --
>> pyotr filipivich
>> "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels
>> alone."
>
> Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon
> content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with.
>
> http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-of-recycling-used-train-tracks/
>
https://makeitfrommetal.com/what-grade-of-steel-is-railroad-track-uses-and-tips/
Yesterday I read that Stephenson's original track gage was 4' 8", he
had to add 1/2" later to the tracks but not the wheels to make them
run more smoothly.
"Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "pyotr filipivich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> on Fri, 4 Oct 2019
>>> 18:01:54 -0400
>>> typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
>>>>
>>>>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the
>>>>> bench,
>>>>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>>>>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>>>>
>>>>I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus
>>>>roller
>>>>slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves
>>>>cut
>>>>from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for
>>>>electronic
>>>>equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum
>>>>analyzer
>>>>weighs 60 lbs.
>>>>
>>>>The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If
>>>>you
>>>>find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the
>>>>pre-drilled
>>>>mounting holes.
>>>
>>> Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
>>> angle iron, just setting there ...
>>>
>>> --
>>> pyotr filipivich
>>> "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels
>>> alone."
>>
>> Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon
>> content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with.
>>
>> http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-of-recycling-used-train-tracks/
>>
>
> https://makeitfrommetal.com/what-grade-of-steel-is-railroad-track-uses-and-tips/
>
> Yesterday I read that Stephenson's original track gage was 4' 8", he
> had to add 1/2" later to the tracks but not the wheels to make them
> run more smoothly.
>
Another bit of useless RR trivia: the steam locomotive was an American
invention.
https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/steamtown/shs2.htm
However, as with Fitch's pioneering steam rowboat, history instead
remembers the men who made crude earlier inventions practical,
Stephenson for the locomotive and Fulton for the steamboat.
It seems the Founding Fathers knew about submarines (Bushnell), steam
locos, high capacity assault rifles (Girandoni) and air mail.
Washington personally handed the first US airmail letter to the
balloon pilot.
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
> replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
> bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
> Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
> top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
> long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
> boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
> with snap ring tools, etc...
>
> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
> Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
> like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
> drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
> brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
> the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
> which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
> they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
> I like, or way to expensive.
Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs fast,
cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also I
indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the same). I
guess appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin
with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of consideration. Thanks
everybody.
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
>> and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
>> top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx
>> 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>
>> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
>> bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
>> not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
>> roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
>> parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...
>>
>> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
>> three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
>> I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
>> about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
>> decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
>> I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
>> drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
>> same way.
>>
>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>
>
> Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
> cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs
> fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also
> I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the
> same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made
> out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of
> consideration. Thanks everybody.
If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some
myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The
second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above
pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet
metal bins for the lighter stuff.
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 07:29:34 -0700
Bob La Londe <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin
>with.
I've found that as I've become older and cheaper that appearance is
highly over rated ;-)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
On 10/7/2019 12:17 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
> On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 07:29:34 -0700
> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>> appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin
>> with.
>
> I've found that as I've become older and cheaper that appearance is
> highly over rated ;-)
>
Well I was thinking if I went with wood I'd just make the boxes, and not
bother with fancy drawer faces, or if I went with metal I'd just rivet
the drawer pulls to the boxes.
I still envisioned them as looking like they were made the same and
being being roughly even down the whole length of the bench.
On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
>>> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
>>> and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
>>> top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx
>>> 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>>>
>>> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
>>> bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
>>> not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
>>> roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
>>> parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...
>>>
>>> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
>>> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
>>> three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
>>> I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
>>> about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
>>> decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
>>> I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
>>> drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
>>> same way.
>>>
>>> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
>>> but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
>>> configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
>>
>>
>> Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
>> cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs
>> fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also
>> I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the
>> same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made
>> out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of
>> consideration. Thanks everybody.
>
> If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some
> myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The
> second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above
> pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet
> metal bins for the lighter stuff.
>
>
I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as
well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase
the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> ...
> I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might
> as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have
> to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.
>
I would have suggested making plywood drawers with slides and perhaps
faces of red oak, which I spent the summer sawing into planks and
beams for future projects. However this morning I saw a 3' red oak
stair tread in a hardware store priced at $35, and larger ones up to
$48.
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 14:27:14 -0700
Bob La Londe <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>Well I was thinking if I went with wood I'd just make the boxes, and not
>bother with fancy drawer faces, or if I went with metal I'd just rivet
>the drawer pulls to the boxes.
>
>I still envisioned them as looking like they were made the same and
>being being roughly even down the whole length of the bench.
For what you want to do I would try and find some used office file
cabinets and/or desks that would work. Put them in place, rearrange
them to taste and then make your bench over the top. Fill in the
remainder as you find more that will work. But I've become super frugal
and try not to be in a hurry to get anything like that done. If you need
or want things NOW you pay a steep price (shrug).
Here is a very similar to mine in appearance office desk:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Steel-Office-Desk/312249112689
Not practical to drive after though :)
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
> about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
> replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
> bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
> Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.
>
> Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
> top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
> long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
> boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
> with snap ring tools, etc...
>
> Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
> probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
> Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
> like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
> drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
> brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
> the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
> which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.
>
> I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
> they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
> I like, or way to expensive.
Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond. Now to find a good source for a gazillion 300lb
and a few 500lb drawer slides. I've made a few 3/4 ply drawers already
in my existing benches, and they are extremely strong. The nice thing
is if time runs short I can just make them in batches.
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"James Waldby" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
>>>>>>>>>easier.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>>>>>> plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
>>>>>>>> move
>>>>>>>> the router in this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
>>>>>>>sawmill)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>>>>>
>>>>>How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
>>
>> [re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
>>>> Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
>>>> shifting.
>>>> Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
>>>> surface
>>>> such that the end you're routing is horizontal).
>>>>
>>>> Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
>>>> away.
>>>> Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
>>>> stack to
>>>> cut the matching joint.
>> ...
>>>> Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
>>>> and
>>>> clamp.
>>>
>>> You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
>>> thick stack without chatter or deflection.
>>
>> Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
>> over 3/4", regardless of thickness.
>>
>> --
>> jiw
>
>Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
>clamps?
>
Change "stacking" to "standing". (||||||||) Square them up and securely
clamp them together. Now you can consider them one thick board and move
them over your router bit or stacked dado blade as a unit and rather than
notching one board at a time - notch several at a time with one pass over
the cutter.
--
Jerry O.
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"James Waldby" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
>>>>>>>>>easier.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>>>>>> plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
>>>>>>>> move
>>>>>>>> the router in this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
>>>>>>>sawmill)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>>>>>
>>>>>How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
>>
>> [re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
>>>> Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
>>>> shifting.
>>>> Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
>>>> surface
>>>> such that the end you're routing is horizontal).
>>>>
>>>> Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
>>>> away.
>>>> Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
>>>> stack to
>>>> cut the matching joint.
>> ...
>>>> Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
>>>> and
>>>> clamp.
>>>
>>> You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
>>> thick stack without chatter or deflection.
>>
>> Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
>> over 3/4", regardless of thickness.
>>
>> --
>> jiw
>
>Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
>clamps?
I think you have a very different idea of how this is done from that
of the person proposing it. There's no need to "avoid the clamps",
you just place them far enough from the edge that they don't interfere
with the operation.
And the purpose is to minimize the setup time. You have a hundred
pieces to cut, clamp them together, set up for the cut, cut. Not
"take a piece, set up, cut, repeat" a hundred times.
>
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>
>> Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
>> screws with Titebond.
>
> Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.
I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
to grab them.
On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>
>>>
>>
>> I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
>> drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
>> drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but
>> making a hundred of them sure does.
>>
>
> If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
> build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
> stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
> edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and route away.
>
> May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.
>
I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole screws.
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
>>> drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
>>> drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long,
>>> but
>>> making a hundred of them sure does.
>>>
>>
>> If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
>> build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
>> stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
>> edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
>> route away.
>>
>> May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.
>>
>
>
> I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
> advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole
> screws.
Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
On 10/10/2019 3:13 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>> "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
>>>>> drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
>>>>> drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long,
>>>>> but
>>>>> making a hundred of them sure does.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
>>>> build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
>>>> stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
>>>> edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
>>>> route away.
>>>>
>>>> May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
>>> advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole
>>> screws.
>>
>> Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
>>
>
> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
> pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the router in
> this case and keep the material stationary.
>
> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>
If only my CNC router were a little bigger. Ok, about ten times bigger.
LOL.
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about
>>>>> 5-6
>>>>> drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around
>>>>> 90-100
>>>>> drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that
>>>>> long,
>>>>> but
>>>>> making a hundred of them sure does.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
>>>> build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
>>>> stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
>>>> edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
>>>> route away.
>>>>
>>>> May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has
>>> the
>>> advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket
>>> hole
>>> screws.
>>
>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
>>
>
> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
> pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
> router in
> this case and keep the material stationary.
>
> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
could rough out and a jointer or thickness planer could finish, but a
table saw is the better choice. The router would cut the edge detail
separately for each piece, guided by the fixture clamped to the table.
My father and I made a batch of t&g flooring on his Shopsmith, set up
like a horizontal-shaft table router. The saw fence was the width
guide and we clamped on scrap wood blocks to hold the flooring strips
against the table, so they only needed to be pushed through by the
next strip. I used the Shopsmith the same way with a saw blade to cut
the edge tongues and grooves in cabinet panel doors.
On 10/10/2019 12:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>
>>> Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
>>> screws with Titebond.
>>
>> Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
>
> Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
> faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
> pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
> The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.
I've no experience with making drawers for holding hundreds of lbs. of
motors and such, but, I absolutely would not simply use Titebond and
pocket screws with plywood. Pocket screws are not appropriate, imo, for
any drawer and gluing plywood edge grain to face grain is also a no no
in my book, especially if strength is an issue.
Personally, I wouldn't even use plywood, I'd use 1x material with at a
bare minimum of locking rabbited drawer joints and glue. No screws
needed but could clamp with nail gun for speed while glue dries. This
would be very fast for multiple drawers of a standard size on just your
table saw, and way stronger than pocket screws, glue and plywood.
Also it's worth noting that drawers do not need to be the full height of
the drawer opening. The drawers mainly just need to keep the items from
rolling off the drawer. You can save a lot of material with 100 drawers
that way. Use plywood for the bottoms.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
When my dad set up his garage, he came a cross some used approx,
12"W x 18"D x 6"H fiberglas trays*. He probably got then for nothing.
He built a wooden frame about bench height and about 15ft along the
wall, it was 4 maybe 5 drawers tall and
guessing, 12 across. The trays were removable.
The trays looked something like this, although not the same size or
material.
> https://www.coleparmer.com/p/cole-parmer-high-impact-trays-ps/65494
* I think they came from an animal research facility and they were used
as mice cages. But that's educated but still a bit of speculation.
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Vm%[email protected]...
> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>
>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>> plywood
>>> pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
>>> router in
>>> this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>
>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>
>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
>
> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>
How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:Vm%[email protected]...
>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
>>>>>>easier.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>>> plywood
>>>>> pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
>>>>> router in
>>>>> this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>>
>>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>>
>>>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
>>>
>>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>>
>>
>>How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
>
> Answering a question with a question?
>
> Simple. You have 16 3/4" thick baltic birch plywood pieces, say
> 12" x 18".
> Stack them one atop the next; now you have a stack of plywood 12"
> thick.
> (Assumption: The drawers are 18" square with 12" high sides; the
> number of
> sides in the stack must be congruent to zero modulo four).
>
> Split the stack in half (because you need two different crenellation
> patterns
> for them to join correctly). Now you have two stacks 6" thick.
>
> Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
> shifting.
> Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
> surface such that the
> end you're routing is horizontal).
>
> Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
> away. Offset the
> jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to cut the
> matching joint.
>
> [*] The most basic being a simple fence and some spacer blocks you
> can add
> as you move the router from slot to slot.
>
> Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and
> clamp.
You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> J. Clarke <[email protected]> writes:
>>>On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>> ..
>> I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
>> cut
>> methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.
>
>Can you post a description of it?
>
Here is the idea
.<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AT05FxUbMto>
There is no reason that you couldn't cut several boards at once - stack them
up and clamp them together.
--
Jerry O.
"Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> J. Clarke <[email protected]> writes:
>>>On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>> ..
>> I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
>> cut
>> methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.
>
>Can you post a description of it?
>
>
https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/box-joint-basics
J. Clarke <[email protected]> writes:
>On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>"James Waldby" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>>> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>>>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
>>>>>>>>>>easier.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>>>>>>> plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
>>>>>>>>> move
>>>>>>>>> the router in this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
>>>>>>>>sawmill)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
>>>
>>> [re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
>>>>> Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
>>>>> shifting.
>>>>> Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
>>>>> surface
>>>>> such that the end you're routing is horizontal).
>>>>>
>>>>> Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
>>>>> away.
>>>>> Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
>>>>> stack to
>>>>> cut the matching joint.
>>> ...
>>>>> Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
>>>>> and
>>>>> clamp.
>>>>
>>>> You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
>>>> thick stack without chatter or deflection.
>>>
>>> Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
>>> over 3/4", regardless of thickness.
>>>
>>> --
>>> jiw
>>
>>Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
>>clamps?
>
>I think you have a very different idea of how this is done from that
>of the person proposing it.
I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift & cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.
>And the purpose is to minimize the setup time. You have a hundred
>pieces to cut, clamp them together, set up for the cut, cut. Not
>"take a piece, set up, cut, repeat" a hundred times.
Indeed.
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> J. Clarke <[email protected]> writes:
>>>On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>> ..
>> I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
>> cut
>> methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.
>
>Can you post a description of it?
>
Another good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NutwD7B6tmE
--
Jerry O.
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> J. Clarke <[email protected]> writes:
>>>On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>> ..
>> I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
>> cut
>> methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.
>
>Can you post a description of it?
First off, the objective is to make box joints. To be clear on the
definition, this is a box joint:
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Box_joint>
Here's a nice howto on making a jig for a handheld router:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsgy6d4365k>
He doesn't show it with the pieces stacked, but the principle is
fairly straightforward. Same technique but clamp together all the
pieces that get the same cut and do them at once.
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> J. Clarke <[email protected]> writes:
>>On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
> ..
> I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
> cut
> methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.
Can you post a description of it?
On 10/12/2019 4:00 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> J. Clarke <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>>> ..
>>> I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
>>> cut
>>> methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.
>>
>> Can you post a description of it?
>
> First off, the objective is to make box joints. To be clear on the
> definition, this is a box joint:
>
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Box_joint>
>
> Here's a nice howto on making a jig for a handheld router:
>
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsgy6d4365k>
>
> He doesn't show it with the pieces stacked, but the principle is
> fairly straightforward. Same technique but clamp together all the
> pieces that get the same cut and do them at once.
>
The objective is to make drawers strong enough, fast, and cost
effective. In that order of importance.
Board lumber (other than general rough construction lumber) is expensive
locally so it could be self eliminating over ply. There are no "real"
lumber yards left around here. Just construction lumber yards who, "can
get that for you, but it will be expensive." The last guy with tons of
good stuff actually was across the street from my old office. About the
same time I went over to see him about some stuff for a big job he
retired and liquidated everything. He didn't have anything I needed
left. Just my luck. LOL.
Not sure who made the comment about gluing end grain on plywood, but
um... only half of the end is end grain.
One thing I noticed is a lot of the guys (on YouTube anyway) doing
pocket joinery don't seem to be using glue. When I have glued and
screwed ply in the past (not pocket joinery) I used lots of glue. The
combination is pretty darn strong and doesn't seem to shift, tweak or
flex much. Ply is also pretty stable.
By the way I do know what a box joint is, and I got the message about
stacking the first time. Jim is more of a metal worker than a wood
worker like myself. You are more likely to see him hanging around R.C.M
than R.W
On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>>>> plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move
>>>>>> the router in this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>>>
>>>>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
>>>>
>>>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>>>
>>>How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
[re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
>> Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
>> shifting.
>> Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical surface
>> such that the end you're routing is horizontal).
>>
>> Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout away.
>> Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to
>> cut the matching joint.
...
>> Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and
>> clamp.
>
> You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
> thick stack without chatter or deflection.
Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
over 3/4", regardless of thickness.
--
jiw
"James Waldby" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> "Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>> "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>>>"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote...
>>>>>>>>Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
>>>>>>>>easier.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
>>>>>>> plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
>>>>>>> move
>>>>>>> the router in this case and keep the material stationary.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> [*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
>>>>>>sawmill)
>>>>>
>>>>> How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?
>>>>>
>>>>How do you rout a 9" thick stack?
>
> [re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
>>> Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
>>> shifting.
>>> Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
>>> surface
>>> such that the end you're routing is horizontal).
>>>
>>> Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
>>> away.
>>> Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
>>> stack to
>>> cut the matching joint.
> ...
>>> Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
>>> and
>>> clamp.
>>
>> You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
>> thick stack without chatter or deflection.
>
> Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
> over 3/4", regardless of thickness.
>
> --
> jiw
Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
clamps?
On 10/11/2019 3:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:> On Thursday, October 10, 2019
at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
>>>> screws with Titebond.
>>>
>>> Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
>>
>> Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
>> faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
>> pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
>> The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.
>>
>> I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
>> process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
>> fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
>> to grab them.
>
> I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw
dust gets in
> the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.
>
> 1/4â ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.
>
Metal dust and chips would be worse probably. Good point. Although
most of the metal chips are made in a different room of the shop. I
could even have them sliced up at the box store to save myself some time.
On 10/12/2019 8:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 2:05:44 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 10/11/2019 3:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:> On Thursday, October 10, 2019
>> at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> >> On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> >>> Bob La Londe <[email protected]> writes:
>> >>>> On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>> Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
>> >>>> screws with Titebond.
>> >>>
>> >>> Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.
>> >>
>> >> Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
>> >> faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
>> >> pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
>> >> The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.
>> >>
>> >> I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
>> >> process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
>> >> fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
>> >> to grab them.
>> >
>> > I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw
>> dust gets in
>> > the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.
>> >
>> > 1/4â ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.
>> >
>>
>> Metal dust and chips would be worse probably. Good point. Although
>> most of the metal chips are made in a different room of the shop. I
>> could even have them sliced up at the box store to save myself some time.
>
> Cutting time saved but replaced by sanding time.
>
> The last time I had plywood cut down at a big box store I could have used
> the edge splinters as tooth picks.
>
Yeah, I think its a function of who is running the saw. Last time I was
there the young man on the panel saw was conscientious, fed slow, and
took care to give us pretty good cuts. There was an older guy who came
by and told him he wanted some help doing something. That guy stood
around, wandered away, and wandered back impatiently and then yelled at
me for leaning on their cross cut saw. I was leaning on the feed table
several feet away from the saw. If that guy is the one available to cut
lumber I'll take my boards home to break down. LOL. He would do a
shitty fast job just to be spiteful over the fact that he had to work at
all.