Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"StephenM" wrote:
>I see one huge flaw in that design:
>
> The stop has to be completely unthreaded and removed to accommodate
> a board longer than the sled is wide. An F-clamp with a block
> arguably less fuss.
----------------------------------------
Not sure I'd call it a "huge" flaw, but more of a minor inconvenience.
As built the sled would allow at least 30" long repetitive cuts using
the stop.
Beyond 30" wide(long) pieces, the stop would have to be removed.
My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30"
long.
YMMV
Lew
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]
september.org:
> On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>
>> Take a look here:
>> http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
>>
>
> Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked.
>
>
Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink*
Puckdropper
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]
september.org:
> On 1/21/10 7:29 AM, StephenM wrote:
>>> Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
>>> Russ
>>
>> Posted to ABPW.
>>
>> Subj: "Yet another sled"
>>
>
> Hate to be a PITA, but any chance you could post them on the web to any
> number of the dozens of free picture sites.
>
> Several of us use one of the following...
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com
> http://photobucket.com/
> http://www.flickr.com/
>
>
Take a look here:
http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
The guy who owns the site used to post here. I haven't seen a post from
him in quite a while, though.
Puckdropper
On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> So, show me yours.
Never use the things - too dangerous.
Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut
_box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get
my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more
rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what
I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway.
Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make
than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves
together past the sawcut.
There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it
emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here
too, just in case I slide it a bit too far.
On Jan 26, 11:36=A0am, Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
> > "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
> > also acts as a further guard. "
>
> So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".
>
> The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the
> blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the
> box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is
> far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard
> against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an
> accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.
Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the
fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can
lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting
finger joints.
I see one huge flaw in that design:
The stop has to be completely unthreaded and removed to accommodate a board
longer than the sled is wide. An F-clamp with a block arguably less fuss.
Maybe if the back corner of the stop block were radiused so that it could
rotate up and out of the way of 1-by stock it would be better.
-Steve
> This one from the WoodSmithShop is simple and neat.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ycf73f9
>
>
> Lew
>
>
On Jan 20, 8:22=A0am, "StephenM" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> So, show me yours.
> > It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
> >> What have you done that works well.
>
> > Photos athttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
> > --
> > Morris Dovey
>
> First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
> not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. =A0I use=
d a
> (full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
> called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
> about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"
1/2" birch ply, finished with a ragged-on linseed oil / poly
varnish / paint thinner mix and waxed. I can slide parts
around very easily, but they stay in place with just a
slight downward push. Looks pretty, too.
On Jan 17, 1:41=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
> What doesn't?
> What mistakes did you make?
> All that stuff...
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
make sure it's square
shelly
two things:
I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.
Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a
replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well.
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
> What doesn't?
> What mistakes did you make?
> All that stuff...
On Jan 21, 11:03=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 1/21/10 8:46 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:
>
> > On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE-<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
>
> >> So, show me yours.
>
> > Never use the things - too dangerous.
>
> Semantics. =A0 You built a sled with a lid.
GREAT line from the TV show, "House:"
You anti-semantic bastard :-)
On Jan 17, 12:14=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 1/17/10 1:09 AM, Morris Dovey wrote:
>
> >> So, show me yours.
> >> What have you done that works well.
>
> > Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
> > Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.
>
> Hadn't thought of stops. =A0Thanks.
Made a set of stop blocks that clamp into the saw table's
t-slots. Haven't found them all that useful with a sled.
Just keep your thumbs out of the blade's path. If you
accidentally nick your sled's aft blade guard cover, it's
not that big a deal.
On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
> "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
> also acts as a further guard. "
So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".
The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the
blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the
box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is
far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard
against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an
accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.
On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
> What doesn't?
> What mistakes did you make?
> All that stuff...
The three I use the most:
http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm
Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Jan 17, 10:00=A0am, "Joe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> two things:
>
> I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on an=
y
> lateral slip of the workpiece.
>
> Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
> screwed in a piece of ply. =A0When it gets worn out, replace it.
>
Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks
On Jan 16, 11:41=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
> What doesn't?
> What mistakes did you make?
> All that stuff...
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su-nxFtCusI/AAAAAAAAAL0/ldm6Po6Db7A/s640/=
Crosscut_Sled_Big_1_110209.JPG
The plex is probably a bit thin (IIRC, 0.093"). I have thicker stock,
but haven't replaced it.
Simple. Scrap. Free. Square. Works.
Johnson's Paste Wax on the bottom and on the runners.
I could surf Hawaii's North Shore on this bad boy....
>> So, show me yours.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>> What have you done that works well.
>
> Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
> --
> Morris Dovey
First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a
(full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"
My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I
still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my
crosscutting need has the following properties:
* a single runner,
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003178/8288/INCRA-Miter-Slider-24.aspx
* about 20 wide by 16 deep
* fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap
(stable, free and consistent)
* fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge.
This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush
to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade
when necessary.
Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well).
-Steve
>
> I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a
> 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on
> sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip
> work for stick, and I'm vise versa.
OK
>
> As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.
My point was more about weight than anything else. My big sled probably
weighs in over 15 lbs ... it's just awkward. But, I'm all about "free" too.
> However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be
> superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps,
> which are "free."
You either have better skills or better hardwood that I have. IME maple
works fine for dual runner sleds but it's either seasonally sticky or sloppy
in a single-runner application. Your milage apparenty varies.
Cheers,
Steve
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
I just finished a new sled. Sorry, no pictures yet.
I added a couple of T-slots for clamping. The fence has a T-slot on top
for a stop block and sandpaper on the front for when I'm too lazy to use
a clamp :-). Also an extension for crosscutting long pieces.
Since I'm starting to do segmented turning, I added a mount for an
auxilary fence in front of the main fence. It swings to whatever angle
I need for the segments.
And as another poster pointed out, be sure the fence is *square* to the
blade.
Thanks
Russ
"StephenM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
>> Russ
>
> Posted to ABPW.
>
> Subj: "Yet another sled"
>
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 1/22/10 10:32 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>
>>> My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long.
>>
>> But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30"
>>
>
> Rough cut with any saw to 30+"
>
By definition "rough" is not "square".
That said, a simple solution is to put a spacer board between the fence and
the workpiece to allow it to extend past the stop block.
I know this because I frequently set up my stop block and then realize that
I had not yet squared up my ends.
-Steve
Morris Dovey wrote:
> On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
>> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>>
>> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
>> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
>> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>>
>> So, show me yours.
>> What have you done that works well.
>
> Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
> Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.
>
>> What doesn't?
>
> What there is of it, works well.
>
>> What mistakes did you make?
>
> Left out blade guards.
>
>> All that stuff...
>
> Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
>
Oooooohhhhh - izat a Monkey-Wards RAS against the wall? I sure miss mine.
On 21 Jan, 18:03, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Never use the things (a sled, use a box) - too dangerous.
>
> Semantics. =A0
That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference
between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger.
> You built a sled with a lid.
Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are
important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating.
On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 00:41:37 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
There was an article in FWW (?) years ago about squaring the fence (it
might have been "methods of work" or something simliar).
Once the sled is complete except for the back fence:
Attach the fence on one side with a screw so that it's free to swivel.
Then swivel it away from the assembly.
Attach a piece of 1/4" plywood to the left side of the table of the
sled, so that it extends an inch or so to the right of the blade. They
used screws through the bottom of the table of the sled, upward into
the ply.
Run the sled through the balde, and remove the plywood waste.
Use a good framing square, set up against the 1/4 plywood, and align
the back fence to the sqaure. Temporarily clamp/attach the back
fence, and run the sled through the blade again. Then make the usual
test cuts and check for square. Make the micro-asjustments, then
finalize the fence attachment and remove the plywood.
Seemed to work good.
-Zz
On Jan 17, 1:41=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
> What doesn't?
> What mistakes did you make?
> All that stuff...
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Make the fence adjustable to make squaring easier.
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_Sled_Fence.php
On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.
> What doesn't?
What there is of it, works well.
> What mistakes did you make?
Left out blade guards.
> All that stuff...
Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On 1/17/10 1:09 AM, Morris Dovey wrote:
>> So, show me yours.
>> What have you done that works well.
>
> Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
> Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.
>
Hadn't thought of stops. Thanks.
>> All that stuff...
>
> Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
>
Simple and effective. SMO from you.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
> Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side.
> It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with
> the leading fence end where the blade came through.
>
I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a
great idea, then and now.
> http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html
>
I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
miters.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/17/10 9:00 AM, Joe wrote:
> two things:
>
> I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
> lateral slip of the workpiece.
>
I did that to the coping sled I made for the router table and it works
wonders.
I'd say it's a certain necessity for melamine.
> Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
> screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a
> replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well.
>
Have any pics?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/17/10 9:54 AM, Swingman wrote:
> The three I use the most:
>
> http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm
>
> Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down.
>
I like that 45-er.
Wish I had the space to make several.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/17/10 3:38 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html
>>>
>>
>> I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
>> miters.
>
>
> IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be
> happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish.
>
I wouldn't argue with that. :-)
'preciate it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/20/10 7:22 AM, StephenM wrote:
> First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
> not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a
> (full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
> called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
> about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"
>
I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and
a 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use
stick-on sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start
with grip work for stick, and I'm vise versa.
As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.
> My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I
> still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my
> crosscutting need has the following properties:
> * a single runner,
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003178/8288/INCRA-Miter-Slider-24.aspx
I bought that for the runner on my router table coping sled and I'm not
a fan. It works fine, but it's too difficult to hone in the width.
Next one I buy (if I do) will have the the little nubs that push out
from one side, like this one...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21651
However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be
superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop
scraps, which are "free."
> * fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap
> (stable, free and consistent)
That's what I'm aiming at, right now. BTW, the melamine was "free," too.
> * fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge.
> This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush
> to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade
> when necessary.
>
> Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well).
>
> -Steve
>
Thanks for the input!
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/20/10 1:41 PM, StephenM wrote:
>>
>> I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a
>> 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on
>> sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip
>> work for stick, and I'm vise versa.
>
> OK
>>
>> As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.
>
> My point was more about weight than anything else. My big sled probably
> weighs in over 15 lbs ... it's just awkward. But, I'm all about "free" too.
>
Understood. But I also like some mass to things like this. The weight
holds it down to the table. I like the mass on my tenoning jig, too. I
don't what it is... it just feels better to me to push something with
some mass. It's like it doesn't feel any different to push whether you
have a big or a little piece of stock in it.
>> However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be
>> superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps,
>> which are "free."
>
> You either have better skills or better hardwood that I have. IME maple
> works fine for dual runner sleds but it's either seasonally sticky or sloppy
> in a single-runner application. Your milage apparenty varies.
>
I don't know about better skills. :-)
I had a long strip of poplar or hickory close to size. I ran it through
my planer until it was a good height, then again to get a perfect width.
And you're right, there seems to be more play with double runners. Even
though both runners fit perfectly, I'm prepared to deal with some
seasonal change, by employing something similar to this technique...
<http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/make-an-adjustable-miter-bar/>
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/21/10 7:29 AM, StephenM wrote:
>> Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
>> Russ
>
> Posted to ABPW.
>
> Subj: "Yet another sled"
>
Hate to be a PITA, but any chance you could post them on the web to any
number of the dozens of free picture sites.
Several of us use one of the following...
http://picasaweb.google.com
http://photobucket.com/
http://www.flickr.com/
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/21/10 8:46 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:
> On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> So, show me yours.
>
> Never use the things - too dangerous.
>
Semantics. You built a sled with a lid.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
>
> Take a look here:
> http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
>
Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/22/10 10:32 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long.
>
> But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30"
>
Rough cut with any saw to 30+"
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/22/10 12:55 PM, StephenM wrote:
>>>> My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long.
>>>
>>> But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30"
>>>
>>
>> Rough cut with any saw to 30+"
>>
> By definition "rough" is not "square".
>
Yeah, that exactly why I used the term.
You make a rough cut close to the finished size, then a final cut on the
sled.
Pretty much standard practice for large stock.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/22/10 5:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]
> september.org:
>
>> On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>
>>> Take a look here:
>>> http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
>>>
>>
>> Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked.
>>
>>
>
> Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink*
>
> Puckdropper
Weird. 7th result, when I did it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/25/10 6:31 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:
> On 21 Jan, 18:03, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> Never use the things (a sled, use a box) - too dangerous.
>>
>> Semantics.
>
> That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference
> between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger.
>
We don't communicate subtle difference by completely renaming a car an
automobile, and pretending the car is "too dangerous" because it doesn't
have anti-lock brakes like your "automobile."
>> You built a sled with a lid.
>
> Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are
> important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating.
All the "sleds" I've seen have the front and back cross sections.
The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
"as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. "
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
> So, show me yours.
> What have you done that works well.
> What doesn't?
> What mistakes did you make?
> All that stuff...
Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side.
It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with
the leading fence end where the blade came through.
With the fence in the back your mark needs to be on the nottom front edge of
the board and you need to lean over far enough to see the alignmant of the
mark with the end of the bed of the sled where the blade came through.
Because I wanted more than a 90 degree cutting sled I bought a left and
right version of these sleds about 10 years ago. They still work very very
well. You can cut most any angle accurately and make repeated cuts
accurately.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html
-MIKE- wrote:
> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
> So, show me yours.
Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost
entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels.
I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for
straight cuts so no miter gauge.
_____________
> What have you done that works well.
The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48".
The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets
there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout
oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push
the sled.
____________
> What doesn't?
> What mistakes did you make?
I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now
which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut
off. I'll fix that one of these days...
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Father Haskell <[email protected]> writes:
> On Jan 26, 11:36Â am, Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
>> > "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
>> > also acts as a further guard. "
>>
>> So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".
>>
>> The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the
>> blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the
>> box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is
>> far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard
>> against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an
>> accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.
>
> Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the
> fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can
> lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting
> finger joints.
can you post a pic?
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
> On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> So, show me yours.
>
> Never use the things - too dangerous.
>
> Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut
> _box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get
> my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more
> rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
> also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what
> I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway.
>
> Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make
> than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves
> together past the sawcut.
>
> There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it
> emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here
> too, just in case I slide it a bit too far.
Can you post a pic? Thanks
"Leon" <[email protected]> writes:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front
>>> side.
>>> It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up
>>> with
>>> the leading fence end where the blade came through.
>>>
>>
>> I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great
>> idea, then and now.
>>
>>
>>> http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html
>>>
>>
>> I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
>> miters.
>
>
> IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be
> happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish.
I am about to make a sled and would appreciate sample drawings if you
have them available... let me know what I need to do.
Thanks
Neil Brooks <[email protected]> writes:
> On Jan 16, 11:41Â pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
>> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>>
>> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
>> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
>> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>>
>> So, show me yours.
>> What have you done that works well.
>> What doesn't?
>> What mistakes did you make?
>> All that stuff...
>
>
> http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su-nxFtCusI/AAAAAAAAAL0/ldm6Po6Db7A/s640/Crosscut_Sled_Big_1_110209.JPG
I couldn't get the link to work - did you erase it?
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> writes:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
>> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>>
>> It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
>> front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
>> pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.
>
>> So, show me yours.
>
> Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost
> entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels.
> I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for
> straight cuts so no miter gauge.
> _____________
>
>> What have you done that works well.
>
> The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48".
>
> The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets
> there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout
> oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push
> the sled.
> ____________
>
>> What doesn't?
>> What mistakes did you make?
>
> I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now
> which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut
> off. I'll fix that one of these days...
Can you post a pic?
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9c58baca-bf59-49b3-8516-7122884b1221@r19g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 17, 10:00 am, "Joe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> two things:
>
> I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
> lateral slip of the workpiece.
>
> Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
> screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it.
>
Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks
If memory serves (and it rarely does), it was about 3" x 3"
Stephen
Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
Russ
"StephenM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>> So, show me yours.
>
>> It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
>
>>> What have you done that works well.
>>
>> Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
>> --
>> Morris Dovey
>
> First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
> not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a
> (full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
> called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
> about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"
>
> My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use.
> I still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my
> crosscutting need has the following properties:
> * a single runner,
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003178/8288/INCRA-Miter-Slider-24.aspx
> * about 20 wide by 16 deep
> * fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap
> (stable, free and consistent)
> * fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge.
> This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge
> flush to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the
> blade when necessary.
>
> Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well).
>
> -Steve
>
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
>> Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front
>> side.
>> It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up
>> with
>> the leading fence end where the blade came through.
>>
>
> I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great
> idea, then and now.
>
>
>> http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html
>>
>
> I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
> miters.
IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be
happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish.