"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:AFpAd.11984$CH5.9377@fed1read01...
> I'm considering making a new front door for my house. Maybe something
with
> a little glass, about 6' 7" tall, 38" wide.
>
> Anyone ever do this? What lumber did you use? What (if anything) was
> tricky?
>
> TIA...
>
> -Mike
>
>
I have never made a door but I would start by looking at the good doors at
an upper end lumber yard. Notice the grain patterns. You probably are
going to pay close attention to the moisture content and pay close attention
to the way the panels are installed.
Another thing I might do is go to a millwork shop and chat it up. They will
probably be happy to explain what goes into a good door.
As a locksmith I have seen my share of swollen doors. In my experience if
the door has a good finish on it (especially the top and the bottom where
the end grain is exposed.) and is protected from direct southern exposure
they do fairly well.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
I've done it twice, unfortunately for the same doorway (front door).
The first time I tried to build a mission-style door in oak. Damn thing
only lasted a few months (I live in Chicago) before I had a 1/2" twist
from top to bottom along the outside edge. Even the smallest movement
can render a door un-shuttable, or at the very least drafty.
I took this door off, cut it down in size a bit and hand planed it
square again, then remounted it indoors. It is definitely the loveliest
furnace-room door you've ever seen.
The second time, I used well-seasoned hard maple in thicker stock (3"
along the frame) and was super careful with the joinery. I seasoned the
maple on the front porch. Joinery is deep tenons for the most part. I
then polyurethaned the heck out of the thing to seal it up. It has
lasted over a year now with no signs of movement whatsoever. It is
heavy enough to knock out the proselytizers when I slam the door shut
on them.
I made a 36"x 80" raised panel (6 panel) front door plus sidelights about 18
months ago. I used 8/4 Red Oak for the rails and stiles, but cheated and used
3/4" stock glued back-to-back for the panels. It was considerably cheaper, and
the joints are invisible. The door has held up perfectly, although the oak
threshold is ready for a sanding and another coat of Spar Varnish. I should
note that I've got a South facing front porch, although it is covered, so the
door gets little direct sunlight. Also, I live in Colorado, and the humidity
is pretty constant (low).
In general, building and entry door requires some skill, but isn't much
different than an "ordinary" raised panel door. I did all of the cope and stick
joints and panel raising on a router table, using a 3+ hp, variable speed
Milwuakee router. The bits were purchased from MLCS, and I went with their
Katana bits, since the Cope and Stick cutters included the elements needed for
booth 1/2 and 1/4 inch slots for the panels. I was also making several matching
interior doors, and needed both.
Probably the biggest problem I had was running the rails through the Jointer
and Planer. I've got a 6" Jet jointer and a 13 in Jet Molder/Planer. Both have
plenty of oomph, but handling 80 inch lengths of 8/4 stock can be a challenge.
Joints were all mortice and loose tenon on the front door, but I relied on the
cope and stick for the interior doors.
Having done it once, I wouldn't hesitate to take it on again. I had priced a
similar door and sidelights at around $3500, without installation, and I figure
I've got around $1200 in this one, including the Milwuakee router and the bits.
Good luck,
Ron Kolakowski
Making a door is not for beginners. Do you have some woodworking history
behind you?
Doors have special construction requirements. The lumber is much thicker
than cabinet doors, the stresses are much greater, there can be extreme
temperature differentials between the outside and the inside and other
stuff. I am not trying to discourage you, but the lumber and time invested
can deal a crushing blow to ones ego if it warps or something.
I have made a few doors, and have a couple of failures and a few successes.
max
> I'm considering making a new front door for my house. Maybe something with
> a little glass, about 6' 7" tall, 38" wide.
>
> Anyone ever do this? What lumber did you use? What (if anything) was
> tricky?
>
> TIA...
>
> -Mike
>
>
"Geoff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've done it twice, unfortunately for the same doorway (front door).
> The first time I tried to build a mission-style door in oak. Damn thing
> only lasted a few months (I live in Chicago) before I had a 1/2" twist
> from top to bottom along the outside edge. Even the smallest movement
> can render a door un-shuttable, or at the very least drafty.
>
> I took this door off, cut it down in size a bit and hand planed it
> square again, then remounted it indoors. It is definitely the loveliest
> furnace-room door you've ever seen.
>
> The second time, I used well-seasoned hard maple in thicker stock (3"
> along the frame) and was super careful with the joinery. I seasoned the
> maple on the front porch. Joinery is deep tenons for the most part. I
> then polyurethaned the heck out of the thing to seal it up. It has
> lasted over a year now with no signs of movement whatsoever. It is
> heavy enough to knock out the proselytizers when I slam the door shut
> on them.
>
Maybe that's why vertical grain fir is often used for exterior doors. Often
the doors you buy are laminated blocks with a thick veneer applied. That's
how they achieve uniformity in grain patterns. I suspect cypress would be a
good wood to use. Just my thoughts on the matter. I have rebuilt several
doors with good success. I will be making a new on soon.
"Mike Pio" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:AFpAd.11984$CH5.9377@fed1read01:
> I'm considering making a new front door for my house. Maybe something
> with a little glass, about 6' 7" tall, 38" wide.
>
Current issue, or maybe the last one, of Woodwork magazine. Very detailed
project description of a mahoghany door, including some nice veneer, glass
and inlay. I don't remember the craftsperson, except that he was not a
fulltime woodworking pro. He used a clever, shopmade approach to the deep
mortises, which he cut with a plunge router.
Also covered in a half-hour program: David Marks "Wood Works", on DIYnet.
His was made of jarrah, and, of course, drop-dead beautiful.
Your climate may influence your choice of materials. See what the better
builders are using, and check out some of the older, historic buildings.
And good luck!
Patriarch