I need some ideas on how best to create a dam around the edge of the
table. I have already put an edge on it, I used a 1/2" round over,
leaving a 3/32 edge at the top. I wish to use the pourable epoxy but I
don't want to let it run over the edges. The edge I will finish
seperately. Any Ideas?
--
Handyman
Are you sure you need it? Have you tried? I think that most of the
products such as Mirrorcoat sold by woodcraft are designed to use the
surface tension of the piece to prevent the epoxy from running over the
edge. This assumes that the epoxy is mixed to the correct viscosity,
but I don't think it is terribly difficult. I would try it on a mock
up made of scrap.
I've used a one part epoxy called "POXY COAT". It is approved for food.
I originally used it on a cider press.
No need to flood, just put a coulple coats on. I've had a red oak table
outside in SE MI for 3 years no with no problems.
Dave
SD: No affiliation with poxy coat
Handyman wrote:
> I need some ideas on how best to create a dam around the edge of the
> table. I have already put an edge on it, I used a 1/2" round over,
> leaving a 3/32 edge at the top. I wish to use the pourable epoxy but I
> don't want to let it run over the edges. The edge I will finish
> seperately. Any Ideas?
>
>
> --
> Handyman
I don't think so. Unless he uses exactly the correct amount and the top
is exactly level it will overflow.
As it does not stick to plastic, if I were to try it again, I would rim
the top with a heavy plastic coated tape.
I had a big problem with improper mixing. So now I pour part A and B
together and mix. Pour this into another container ( scraping the sides)
and mix again. Then pour it back into the first container and mix again.
You have to move quickly. And then pour on to the substrate. I then use a
propane torch to break the bubbles. Good luck, JG
woodworker88 wrote:
> Are you sure you need it? Have you tried? I think that most of the
> products such as Mirrorcoat sold by woodcraft are designed to use the
> surface tension of the piece to prevent the epoxy from running over the
> edge. This assumes that the epoxy is mixed to the correct viscosity,
> but I don't think it is terribly difficult. I would try it on a mock
> up made of scrap.
Handyman wrote:
> I need some ideas on how best to create a dam around the edge of the
> table. I have already put an edge on it, I used a 1/2" round over,
> leaving a 3/32 edge at the top. I wish to use the pourable epoxy but I
> don't want to let it run over the edges. The edge I will finish
> seperately. Any Ideas?
>
>
Plumber's Putty.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
Andy Dingley wrote:
> Although it's a problem for structural glueups, I'd expect it to bond
> well enough for this sort of surface coating. I've used filled epoxies
> successfully for hiding knots or crack filling.
As soon as you fill the epoxy, it is a whole new ball in play.
Filling cracks and covering knots as above should work quite well.
Lew
You should let it flow over the edge. You can sand the drips off later.
Check out http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/protips.htm .
Preston
>
> I need some ideas on how best to create a dam around the edge of the
> table. I have already put an edge on it, I used a 1/2" round over,
> leaving a 3/32 edge at the top. I wish to use the pourable epoxy but I
> don't want to let it run over the edges. The edge I will finish
> seperately. Any Ideas?
>
>
> --
> Handyman
"no(SPAM)vasys" <"no(SPAM)vasys"@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Handyman wrote:
>
>> I need some ideas on how best to create a dam around the edge of the
>> table. I have already put an edge on it, I used a 1/2" round over,
>> leaving a 3/32 edge at the top. I wish to use the pourable epoxy but I
>> don't want to let it run over the edges. The edge I will finish
>> seperately. Any Ideas?
>>
>>
>
> Plumber's Putty.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
> (Remove -SPAM- to send email)
Masking tape with the right amount exposed over the lip might do it too.
Just make sure that the stiffness of the paper isn't overwhelmed by the
epoxy.
Michael
On Fri, 03 Jun 2005 06:33:47 GMT, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]>
wrote:
>1)Epoxy does not bond well to white oak.
Although it's a problem for structural glueups, I'd expect it to bond
well enough for this sort of surface coating. I've used filled epoxies
successfully for hiding knots or crack filling.
On Fri, 3 Jun 2005 02:25:43 +0100, Handyman
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need some ideas on how best to create a dam around the edge of the
>table.
Mylar (polyester sheet) as a release layer, then a vertical wall of MDF
to support it. Screw or clamp it in place as needed.