Leigh D1600

I just bought one and I think it is slick. The instruction manual is top
rate and the DVD even makes it better. I had a Sears dove tail jig....what a
pain. The D1600 works great.
I was kinda lucky, because Rockler was giving 15% off on all "regular priced
items" via the internet and so I ordered one and got 15% off. I noticed a
couple of days later they very quickly put the D1600 "on sale"......$10.00
off, so that it didn't apply to the 15% off any more. In my case I don't
think the 16" limit will be a handicap?

Ron Stitt


"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Has anyone tried the Leigh D1600 yet. From reading the specs it does
>> exactly what the D4 does but just a little shorter. For the $100. or so
>> difference I can't really see where I'd need the 24" over the 16" jig.
>> Hmmm thinking.
>>
>
> The extra length is handy so that you can set up both ends of the jig to
> mirror each other. This helps make opposite ends of joints appear
> symmetrical.
> For example if you only set the guide fingers on the left side of the jig
> the opposite ends of the joint would look backwards if you used uneven
> spacing. Say you make the spacing tight on the left side of the jig and
> adjusted the fingers to be wider apart as they neared the center of the
> jig. You cut one end of a piece, take the board out and flip it end for
> end and make the cuts in the other end of the piece. The result would be
> thin tails and pins at the top at on end of the piece and the opposite end
> would have wider pins and tails near the top of the joint.
>
> If you use both left and right sides of the jig and lay out one end of the
> jig fingers to mirror the other end of the jig and then cut one end of the
> piece on the left side, flip the piece end for end and cut on the opposite
> end of the jig the result on the piece will be joints that mirror each
> other.
>
> With the 16" jig, you limit your self to about 8" vs. 12" if you use the
> symmetrical set up described above.
> If that would never be a problem go for the cheaper 16" model.
>
>
>
>

>From reading the specs it does exactly
>what the D4 does but just a little shorter.

The d4 can handle thicker stock. If you want to do casework, get the
d4. if all you'll ever do is drawers or smaller boxes, the d1600 is
probably enough.

brian

"Mike S." <[email protected]> wrote:

>Has anyone tried the Leigh D1600 yet. From reading the specs it does exactly
>what the D4 does but just a little shorter. For the $100. or so difference I
>can't really see where I'd need the 24" over the 16" jig. Hmmm thinking.

Notice the D4 also handles somewhat thicker as well as wider stock.
From their web site http://www.leighjigs.com :

D1600 Features:
Maximum board width 16"
Through dovetails up to 13/16" thick
Half-blind dovetails up to 1" thick
Sliding dovetails up to 1" thick

D4 Features:
Stock width from 1" to 24"
Through dovetails 1/8" to 1-1/4" thick
Half-blind dovetails up to 1-1/2" thick
Sliding dovetails up to 1-1/2" thick

Otherwise I'd expect the D1600 quality to be equal to the D4, and also
expect to see more templates and accessories in the future if the
D1600 proves to be popular.

I bought the D4 with the intentions of "moving up" in the future, maybe
purchasing their other templates ...


JJS

Mike S. wrote:
> Has anyone tried the Leigh D1600 yet. From reading the specs it does exactly
> what the D4 does but just a little shorter. For the $100. or so difference I
> can't really see where I'd need the 24" over the 16" jig. Hmmm thinking.
>

It definitely depends on what you plan to build, but I've used nearly the
full 24" capacity on my D4 many times. Most notably on blanket chests and
some chest carcases. I have also done what another responder suggested -
and set up for 2 parts to be cut in one set-up on either end of the jig.

I'm sure you'll love the jig - it is great and is really easy to learn (no
matter what some people would like you to believe).

Mike


"Mike S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Has anyone tried the Leigh D1600 yet. From reading the specs it does
exactly
> what the D4 does but just a little shorter. For the $100. or so difference
I
> can't really see where I'd need the 24" over the 16" jig. Hmmm thinking.
>
> --
>
> Mike S.
> [email protected]
> http://members.tripod.com/n0yii/woodworking.htm
>
>

"Mike S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Has anyone tried the Leigh D1600 yet. From reading the specs it does
> exactly what the D4 does but just a little shorter. For the $100. or so
> difference I can't really see where I'd need the 24" over the 16" jig.
> Hmmm thinking.
>

The extra length is handy so that you can set up both ends of the jig to
mirror each other. This helps make opposite ends of joints appear
symmetrical.
For example if you only set the guide fingers on the left side of the jig
the opposite ends of the joint would look backwards if you used uneven
spacing. Say you make the spacing tight on the left side of the jig and
adjusted the fingers to be wider apart as they neared the center of the jig.
You cut one end of a piece, take the board out and flip it end for end and
make the cuts in the other end of the piece. The result would be thin tails
and pins at the top at on end of the piece and the opposite end would have
wider pins and tails near the top of the joint.

If you use both left and right sides of the jig and lay out one end of the
jig fingers to mirror the other end of the jig and then cut one end of the
piece on the left side, flip the piece end for end and cut on the opposite
end of the jig the result on the piece will be joints that mirror each
other.

With the 16" jig, you limit your self to about 8" vs. 12" if you use the
symmetrical set up described above.
If that would never be a problem go for the cheaper 16" model.