2" long 3/8 straight router bit?

3/8 shank x 2" flute scarce but would check Onsrud. "Forget about it"
in 1/2" shank solid spirals.
Oddly 1/4 shanked solid carbide straight fluted cutters are good to
>2"!
I use them, would I recommend? I would provided one has the patience
and skill to use. (requires very shallow hits/pass, very fragile.)
Your mortice too deep? I would say not but I'd opt for a more modest
depth and supplement with corner braces & strategic hardware.
Routs all day long: http://patwarner.com/
*********************************




On Mar 13, 11:15=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. =A0I
> want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
> long. =A0Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> straight, that will cut the mortise. =A0Seems like the longest is
> 1.25". =A0Will that be long enough? =A0Am I making the tenons too long?
>
> -Jim

On Mar 13, 9:35=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/13/2011 1:15 PM, jtpr wrote:
>
> > I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. =A0I
> > want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> > The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
> > long. =A0Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> > straight, that will cut the mortise. =A0Seems like the longest is
> > 1.25". =A0Will that be long enough? =A0Am I making the tenons too long?
>
> "End mills" will work in routers and can be had in much longer lengths at=
:
>
> http://www.travers.com/subcat.asp?navPath=3DAll+Products%2F%2F%2F%2FCut..=
.
>
> FWIW, I use them exclusively in my Multi-Router, powered by a PC 690
> router motor. <For a 3/8" end mill you will want a 3/8" collet>.
>
> Lots to choose from, so unless you know exactly what you want prepare to
> spend some time researching.
>
> Otherwise, call Travers, tell them what task you are doing with the end
> mills and what your needs are, and they will tell you precisely what you
> need without you having to wade through the countless choices on their
> web site/catalog.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)

I would want something running slower than 22,000 RPM...

"jtpr" wrote:

>I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
> want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon
> 2"
> long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
> 1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?
---------------------------------
This project may be the justification for the purchase of a dedicated
mortising machine<G>.

Might want to check out 4 flute end mills used for metal cutting
milling machines.

Lew

jtpr wrote:
> I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
> want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
> long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
> 1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?
>
> -Jim

No, they are not too long; OTOH, 1.25" would be fine too. IMO..

You don't need more than 1.25" cutting length as long as the *total* length
of the bit will accomodate the depth you want to cut; after all, you aren't
planning on hogging out the entire 2" in one pass, are you?

Eagle America has 3/8 x3" bits as do many other places.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I previously wrote:

> This project may be the justification for the purchase of a
> dedicated mortising machine<G>.
>
> Might want to check out 4 flute end mills used for metal cutting
> milling machines.
---------------------------------------
Another thought.

A 3/8" carbide forstner bit.

It will go to a depth of 2" with no problem as long as you have the
patience to clear out the waste every 1/4"-3/8" of depth.

Lew

routerman wrote:
> Would not be cutting >flute length whence flute diameter is = shank
> diameter. Chip will not escape and shank rub will be a problem.
> ***************************************************************

He is cutting a mortice. He cuts the mortice length in "X" passes to 1.25
deep. As he goes deeper than the cutting edge, the chips pass out through
the portion of the mortice length already cut just as they do getting to
1.25. It will work just fine, do it with frequency.

dadiOH
________________________

>> No, they are not too long; OTOH, 1.25" would be fine too. IMO..
>>
>> You don't need more than 1.25" cutting length as long as the *total*
>> length of the bit will accomodate the depth you want to cut; after
>> all, you aren't planning on hogging out the entire 2" in one pass,
>> are you?
>>
>> Eagle America has 3/8 x3" bits as do many other places.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"jtpr" wrote:

> Thank you all. These are great alternatives. I actually was
considering buying a mortising machine:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082432/30900/WoodRiver-Bench-Top-Mortiser-with-Chisels-and-Bits.aspx

My thought was, "hey this is more for the bride then myself, so I can
get this past the finance committee." Then, now that I have justified
the expense I started looking at horizontal tables:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRRhOjNx5oA&feature=related

Then I saw this and thought it would be a cool project as well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciXplz3SrMk&feature=player_embedded

Anyway, I am leaning more toward the horizontal idea as I think I
would end up with a much more versatile tool for my money then a
dedicated mortise machine. Of course I would need a router motor, but
I should be able to find a used one for short money.

The wood for these legs cost me about $240 and a lot of time getting
them cut and square, so I don't want to screw this up by being cheap
about it.

Thanks again, what think of my ideas?
---------------------------------
SFWIW.

The mortising machine from Woodcraft above uses a 1/2 HP, 4 pole
induction motor which is a much better choice than a router based
device which operates with a universal motor.

YMMV

Lew

"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/13/2011 1:15 PM, jtpr wrote:
>> I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
>> want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
>> The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
>> long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
>> straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
>> 1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?
>
> "End mills" will work in routers and can be had in much longer lengths at:
>
> http://www.travers.com/subcat.asp?navPath=All+Products%2F%2F%2F%2FCutting%3A+H.S.S.+%26+Solid+Carbide%2F%2F%2F%2FEnd+Mills
>
> FWIW, I use them exclusively in my Multi-Router, powered by a PC 690
> router motor. <For a 3/8" end mill you will want a 3/8" collet>.
>
> Lots to choose from, so unless you know exactly what you want prepare to
> spend some time researching.
>
> Otherwise, call Travers, tell them what task you are doing with the end
> mills and what your needs are, and they will tell you precisely what you
> need without you having to wade through the countless choices on their web
> site/catalog.


Might I add to that, I used a 3/8" 4 flute end mill bit to cut probably
1000+ punge cut, stopped, through cuts in Ipe. It out lasted the previous 3
carbide bits which were good for about 200 plunge cuts.

On Mar 15, 8:48=A0pm, Larry Kraus <[email protected]> wrote:
> jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. =A0I
> >want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> >The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
> >long. =A0Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> >straight, that will cut the mortise. =A0Seems like the longest is
> >1.25". =A0Will that be long enough? =A0Am I making the tenons too long?
>
> >-Jim
>
> Two inches is may be overkill on the tenon length.
>
> How thick is the cross piece?
>
> I'm amazed this thread has gone this far and no one has yet suggested
> creating the mortise with a drill and chisel. =A0You probably already
> have the drill. A chisel takes up little storage space when you are
> not using it. Paring the sides of the mortise with a sharp chisel is
> fun!

The cross piece is 51/2" x 3/4"x different lengths.

-Jim

jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
>want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
>The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
>long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
>straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
>1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?
>
>-Jim

Two inches is may be overkill on the tenon length.

How thick is the cross piece?

I'm amazed this thread has gone this far and no one has yet suggested
creating the mortise with a drill and chisel. You probably already
have the drill. A chisel takes up little storage space when you are
not using it. Paring the sides of the mortise with a sharp chisel is
fun!

"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4a5789ed-bcff-4020-8098-a7f0fbf68221@dn9g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 13, 9:35 pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/13/2011 1:15 PM, jtpr wrote:
>
> > I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
> > want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> > The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
> > long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> > straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
> > 1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?
>
> "End mills" will work in routers and can be had in much longer lengths at:
>
> http://www.travers.com/subcat.asp?navPath=All+Products%2F%2F%2F%2FCut...
>
> FWIW, I use them exclusively in my Multi-Router, powered by a PC 690
> router motor. <For a 3/8" end mill you will want a 3/8" collet>.
>
> Lots to choose from, so unless you know exactly what you want prepare to
> spend some time researching.
>
> Otherwise, call Travers, tell them what task you are doing with the end
> mills and what your needs are, and they will tell you precisely what you
> need without you having to wade through the countless choices on their
> web site/catalog.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)

I would want something running slower than 22,000 RPM...

End mills run fine at that speed. Been there done that with about 1000
plunge cuts in Ipe with a single bit.

On Mar 15, 8:48=A0pm, Larry Kraus <[email protected]> wrote:
> jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. =A0I
> >want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> >The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
> >long. =A0Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> >straight, that will cut the mortise. =A0Seems like the longest is
> >1.25". =A0Will that be long enough? =A0Am I making the tenons too long?
>
> >-Jim
>
> Two inches is may be overkill on the tenon length.
>
> How thick is the cross piece?
>
> I'm amazed this thread has gone this far and no one has yet suggested
> creating the mortise with a drill and chisel. =A0You probably already
> have the drill. A chisel takes up little storage space when you are
> not using it. Paring the sides of the mortise with a sharp chisel is
> fun!

Actually, that is what I intended in the beginning, but I have 24 of
these to do and that way just gets old. But thank you for the
suggestion

-Jim

On Mar 15, 9:42=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> routerman wrote:
> > Would not be cutting >flute length whence flute diameter is =3D shank
> > diameter. Chip will not escape and shank rub will be a problem.
> > ***************************************************************
>
> He is cutting a mortice. =A0He cuts the mortice length in "X" passes to 1=
.25
> deep. =A0As he goes deeper than the cutting edge, the chips pass out thro=
ugh
> the portion of the mortice length already cut just as they do getting to
> 1.25. =A0It will work just fine, do it with frequency.
>
> dadiOH
> ________________________
>
> >> No, they are not too long; OTOH, 1.25" would be fine too. IMO..
>
> >> You don't need more than 1.25" cutting length as long as the *total*
> >> length of the bit will accomodate the depth you want to cut; after
> >> all, you aren't planning on hogging out the entire 2" in one pass,
> >> are you?
>
> >> Eagle America has 3/8 x3" bits as do many other places.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Thank you all. These are great alternatives. I actually was
considering buying a mortising machine:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082432/30900/WoodRiver-Bench-Top-Mortiser=
-with-Chisels-and-Bits.aspx

My thought was, "hey this is more for the bride then myself, so I can
get this past the finance committee." Then, now that I have justified
the expense I started looking at horizontal tables:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DVRRhOjNx5oA&feature=3Drelated

Then I saw this and thought it would be a cool project as well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DciXplz3SrMk&feature=3Dplayer_embedded

Anyway, I am leaning more toward the horizontal idea as I think I
would end up with a much more versatile tool for my money then a
dedicated mortise machine. Of course I would need a router motor, but
I should be able to find a used one for short money.

The wood for these legs cost me about $240 and a lot of time getting
them cut and square, so I don't want to screw this up by being cheap
about it.

Thanks again, what think of my ideas?

-Jim

Would not be cutting >flute length whence flute diameter is =3D shank
diameter. Chip will not escape and shank rub will be a problem.
***************************************************************
>
> No, they are not too long; OTOH, 1.25" would be fine too. =A0IMO..
>
> You don't need more than 1.25" cutting length as long as the *total* leng=
th
> of the bit will accomodate the depth you want to cut; after all, you aren=
't
> planning on hogging out the entire 2" in one pass, are you?
>
> Eagle America has 3/8 x3" bits as do many other places.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

> Thanks again, what think of my ideas?
>
> -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Hey this is maybe not as versitile as a multi-router or other
horizontal router but much fmore fun.. get a swing chisle mortiser. A
real must if you are doing through mortises and want squared edges
with no extra work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJUJ796jxls

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5x0tEp5XYk&feature=autoplay&list=PL5A4CCF3EB4C289BB&index=38&playnext=2

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "jtpr" wrote:
>
>>I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
>> want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
>> The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
>> long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
>> straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
>> 1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?
> ---------------------------------
> This project may be the justification for the purchase of a dedicated
> mortising machine<G>.
>
> Might want to check out 4 flute end mills used for metal cutting milling
> machines.
>
> Lew
>
>

The later is an extremely viable and cheaper alternative. ;~)

On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:01:49 -0700 (PDT), jtpr <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Mar 15, 8:48 pm, Larry Kraus <[email protected]> wrote:
>> jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs.  I
>> >want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
>> >The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
>> >long.  Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
>> >straight, that will cut the mortise.  Seems like the longest is
>> >1.25".  Will that be long enough?  Am I making the tenons too long?
>>
>> >-Jim
>>
>> Two inches is may be overkill on the tenon length.
>>
>> How thick is the cross piece?
>>
>> I'm amazed this thread has gone this far and no one has yet suggested
>> creating the mortise with a drill and chisel.  You probably already
>> have the drill. A chisel takes up little storage space when you are
>> not using it. Paring the sides of the mortise with a sharp chisel is
>> fun!
>
>Actually, that is what I intended in the beginning, but I have 24 of
>these to do and that way just gets old. But thank you for the
>suggestion

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ONSRUD-Routing-End-Mill-4WAF3?Pid=search
1-1/2" cutter length, not cheap.

http://www.woodworkersworld.net/solid_carbide_spirals_router_bits.shtml
1/2" bits go to 2" cutter length.

BUT, you'd be doing incremental depth cuts for them anyway, so either
should work for you.

--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 11:15:11 -0700 (PDT), jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
>want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
>The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
>long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
>straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
>1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?

MortisePal bits don't have 2" worth of sharp but they're 3-1/2" long:

http://www.mortisepal.com/storefront.html

On 3/13/2011 1:15 PM, jtpr wrote:
> I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I
> want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery.
> The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2"
> long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or
> straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is
> 1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?

"End mills" will work in routers and can be had in much longer lengths at:

http://www.travers.com/subcat.asp?navPath=All+Products%2F%2F%2F%2FCutting%3A+H.S.S.+%26+Solid+Carbide%2F%2F%2F%2FEnd+Mills

FWIW, I use them exclusively in my Multi-Router, powered by a PC 690
router motor. <For a 3/8" end mill you will want a 3/8" collet>.

Lots to choose from, so unless you know exactly what you want prepare to
spend some time researching.

Otherwise, call Travers, tell them what task you are doing with the end
mills and what your needs are, and they will tell you precisely what you
need without you having to wade through the countless choices on their
web site/catalog.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)