I have an old recycled bench top that is 10' long, 3' wide, and 2" thick.
It is laminated maple. It's from an old bakery so it has some finish on it
and a lot of other "guck". I've tried to clean it up a little with mineral
spirits and a ROS but it didn't do much. I wanted to get it cleaned up
through a planer but can't find anyone with a 36" + capacity planer or drum
sander.
The top also has threaded rod running across it every 2'. What I'm thinking
of doing is cutting it down to about 7' long and removing the rod and
ripping it into 1' sections and then running it through my portable planer.
Then I'll join them back together.
My questions are: Is the finish and other stuff on the slab going to toast
my planer blades? ...and... Does anyone have a better idea?
--
BeerBoy
Bingo there Mr. Hodgett. And about the person who said the idea of ripping
it down was silly. You're silly my friend. While I personally would not rip
it into 1' sections the idea is still a good plan. Not only does it allow
him to get the thing through a planer or sander, it also makes transporting
it easier and gluing it back together should be pie for anyone with even a
small amount of experience. I guess however if you're lacking that, then yes
it would be hard.......
Jim
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "BeerBoy" writes:
>
> > I have an old recycled bench top that is 10' long, 3' wide, and 2"
thick.
> > It is laminated maple. It's from an old bakery so it has some finish on
> it
> > and a lot of other "guck". I've tried to clean it up a little with
> mineral
> > spirits and a ROS but it didn't do much. I wanted to get it cleaned up
> > through a planer but can't find anyone with a 36" + capacity planer or
> drum
> > sander.
>
> Around here commercial drum sanders are 48" wide.
>
> My guess is your time for transportation to get to one and less than $50,
> you have a clean top.
>
> HTH
>
>
> --
> Lew
>
> S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the
Southland)
> Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
>
>
JackD wrote:
> Doing something the risky, expensive, hard way IS silly when there is a
> safe, cheap, easy alternative.
Plus it reads to me like a hell of a lot of trouble to go to in order to be
able to use a power tool to do a job best tackled with hand tools.
OTOH, I've been trying to flatten the face of a board for some time now, and
I've made a lot of mess without getting anywhere good. Narrow boards are
easy, but wide boards are not something a plane novice is going to be able
to get to come out right straight off. I can't level all the various
little conflicting cuts in this thing to save my life, and I'm waist deep
in shavings. The OP might face a similar learning curve, and might ruin
his bench. I still think his plan sounds like a crazy amount of work, but
going out to buy a plane to solve the problem probably isn't going to get
him there either.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:23:14 -0500, John Grossbohlin wrote:
> I did my 2 3/4" X 30" X 60" maple topped bench with a No 7 jointer plane...
> It didn't take too long to do and with the plane set to take a fine cut I
> was left with the top flat in all directions.
I betcha you put in about 3 miles in the process :-)
-Doug
"BeerBoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:bWAsb.378383$6C4.117863@pd7tw1no...
> I have an old recycled bench top that is 10' long, 3' wide, and 2" thick.
> It is laminated maple. It's from an old bakery so it has some finish on
it
> and a lot of other "guck". I've tried to clean it up a little with
mineral
> spirits and a ROS but it didn't do much. I wanted to get it cleaned up
> through a planer but can't find anyone with a 36" + capacity planer or
drum
> sander.
> The top also has threaded rod running across it every 2'. What I'm
thinking
> of doing is cutting it down to about 7' long and removing the rod and
> ripping it into 1' sections and then running it through my portable
planer.
> Then I'll join them back together.
> My questions are: Is the finish and other stuff on the slab going to
toast
> my planer blades? ...and... Does anyone have a better idea?
>
> --
> BeerBoy
I would use a hand scraper to get all of the "guck" off of the face and then
use a hand plane to level the top. Do you have jointer plane? If not, it
might be a good opportunity to get a used #7 or #8. There are plenty of
articles in the various magazines that outline how to level a large surface
with hand planes. It is a great skill to know. It is pretty simple and
only involves a plane and winding sticks.
Bob McBreen
"BeerBoy" writes:
> I have an old recycled bench top that is 10' long, 3' wide, and 2" thick.
> It is laminated maple. It's from an old bakery so it has some finish on
it
> and a lot of other "guck". I've tried to clean it up a little with
mineral
> spirits and a ROS but it didn't do much. I wanted to get it cleaned up
> through a planer but can't find anyone with a 36" + capacity planer or
drum
> sander.
Around here commercial drum sanders are 48" wide.
My guess is your time for transportation to get to one and less than $50,
you have a clean top.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
"BeerBoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:bWAsb.378383$6C4.117863@pd7tw1no...
> I have an old recycled bench top that is 10' long, 3' wide, and 2" thick.
> It is laminated maple. It's from an old bakery so it has some finish on
it
> and a lot of other "guck". I've tried to clean it up a little with
mineral
> spirits and a ROS but it didn't do much. I wanted to get it cleaned up
> through a planer but can't find anyone with a 36" + capacity planer or
drum
> sander.
> The top also has threaded rod running across it every 2'. What I'm
thinking
> of doing is cutting it down to about 7' long and removing the rod and
> ripping it into 1' sections and then running it through my portable
planer.
> Then I'll join them back together.
> My questions are: Is the finish and other stuff on the slab going to
toast
> my planer blades? ...and... Does anyone have a better idea?
>
I did my 2 3/4" X 30" X 60" maple topped bench with a No 7 jointer plane...
It didn't take too long to do and with the plane set to take a fine cut I
was left with the top flat in all directions.
John
>
> This assumes that:
>
> 1) At least one face of it is flat (and if it is flat then why plane it)
Drum or wide belt sander fixes that
> 2) You use a sander/planer which is capable of maintaining very precise
> thickness and has no snipe or you have to flatten it again after you glue
it
> up.
Same as above
> 3) You are capable of muscling around a 10'x3'x2" board on your tablesaw.
Ever heard of a helping hand??
> 4) You have a large flat surface on which to glue it back together.
Come on now how hard is that? You dont have such an area in your shop?
> Seems to me that breaking out a scraper or using the back is much less
work
> and is likely to produce as good or better results.
If thats what you're into I guess. Different strokes for different folks
right?
> Doing something the risky, expensive, hard way IS silly when there is a
> safe, cheap, easy alternative.
I dont see where you showed that myself. Ive done similar operations in my
shop before with good results. My sander is only good for 24" but the
principles are the same for large panels and boards. Larger panels and
boards take some precautions yes thats true. But if its something you have
some experience with you can get the job done safely, quickly and with
acceptable results. If not then perhaps yes, one of the other methods
mentioned would be best. The best suggestion Ive heard all day was take it
to a shop with a large drum sander. That sucker will get it flat with no
snipe if its set up right. Infeed/outfeed is taken care of properly and
such. You're going to end up with a smooth flat ready to go finish and I
really dont think loading it up in a truck or van is going to make or break
the deal you know?
>
> -Jack
>
>
James Kountz states:
>The best suggestion Ive heard all day was take it
>to a shop with a large drum sander. That sucker will get it flat with no
>snipe if its set up right. Infeed/outfeed is taken care of properly and
>such. You're going to end up with a smooth flat ready to go finish and I
>really dont think loading it up in a truck or van is going to make or break
>the deal you know?
No, but didn't the OP state that there was no one locally that had a wide belt
sander?
Charlie Self
"Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same
function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of
things." Sir Winston Churchill
I have surfaced large area's like your table top by building a cross slide
out of a couple of boards and routing the surface.
I got the idea out of the router handbook. It is pretty simple. 2 boards
along one axis, then a simple tray that the router sits in. The tray sits
on the two boards running parrallel to the one axis, the router slides along
the tray, giving 2 axis' of travel across the part to be routed.
If your carefull you can route it flat and clean, then sand or scrape it
smooth.
J
"RWM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"BeerBoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:bWAsb.378383$6C4.117863@pd7tw1no...
> I have an old recycled bench top that is 10' long, 3' wide, and 2" thick.
> It is laminated maple. It's from an old bakery so it has some finish on
it
> and a lot of other "guck". I've tried to clean it up a little with
mineral
> spirits and a ROS but it didn't do much. I wanted to get it cleaned up
> through a planer but can't find anyone with a 36" + capacity planer or
drum
> sander.
> The top also has threaded rod running across it every 2'. What I'm
thinking
> of doing is cutting it down to about 7' long and removing the rod and
> ripping it into 1' sections and then running it through my portable
planer.
> Then I'll join them back together.
> My questions are: Is the finish and other stuff on the slab going to
toast
> my planer blades? ...and... Does anyone have a better idea?
>
> --
> BeerBoy
I would use a hand scraper to get all of the "guck" off of the face and then
use a hand plane to level the top. Do you have jointer plane? If not, it
might be a good opportunity to get a used #7 or #8. There are plenty of
articles in the various magazines that outline how to level a large surface
with hand planes. It is a great skill to know. It is pretty simple and
only involves a plane and winding sticks.
Bob McBreen
On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 17:54:57 -0800, "RWM" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I would use a hand scraper to get all of the "guck" off of the face and then
>use a hand plane to level the top. Do you have jointer plane? If not, it
>might be a good opportunity to get a used #7 or #8. There are plenty of
>articles in the various magazines that outline how to level a large surface
>with hand planes. It is a great skill to know. It is pretty simple and
>only involves a plane and winding sticks.
Couldn't he do the router on a sled thingy and get it basically
perfect?
JP
Turn it over. The underside should be ok.
You could use a scraper or a hand plane on it.
Your other idea is a crazy waste of time.
-Jack
"BeerBoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:bWAsb.378383$6C4.117863@pd7tw1no...
> I have an old recycled bench top that is 10' long, 3' wide, and 2" thick.
> It is laminated maple. It's from an old bakery so it has some finish on
it
> and a lot of other "guck". I've tried to clean it up a little with
mineral
> spirits and a ROS but it didn't do much. I wanted to get it cleaned up
> through a planer but can't find anyone with a 36" + capacity planer or
drum
> sander.
> The top also has threaded rod running across it every 2'. What I'm
thinking
> of doing is cutting it down to about 7' long and removing the rod and
> ripping it into 1' sections and then running it through my portable
planer.
> Then I'll join them back together.
> My questions are: Is the finish and other stuff on the slab going to
toast
> my planer blades? ...and... Does anyone have a better idea?
>
> --
> BeerBoy
>
>
>
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> Bingo there Mr. Hodgett. And about the person who said the idea of ripping
> it down was silly. You're silly my friend. While I personally would not
rip
> it into 1' sections the idea is still a good plan. Not only does it allow
> him to get the thing through a planer or sander, it also makes
transporting
> it easier and gluing it back together should be pie for anyone with even a
> small amount of experience. I guess however if you're lacking that, then
yes
> it would be hard.......
>
> Jim
This assumes that:
1) At least one face of it is flat (and if it is flat then why plane it)
2) You use a sander/planer which is capable of maintaining very precise
thickness and has no snipe or you have to flatten it again after you glue it
up.
3) You are capable of muscling around a 10'x3'x2" board on your tablesaw.
4) You have a large flat surface on which to glue it back together.
Seems to me that breaking out a scraper or using the back is much less work
and is likely to produce as good or better results.
Doing something the risky, expensive, hard way IS silly when there is a
safe, cheap, easy alternative.
-Jack
"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> JackD wrote:
>
> > Doing something the risky, expensive, hard way IS silly when there is a
> > safe, cheap, easy alternative.
>
> Plus it reads to me like a hell of a lot of trouble to go to in order to
be
> able to use a power tool to do a job best tackled with hand tools.
>
> OTOH, I've been trying to flatten the face of a board for some time now,
and
> I've made a lot of mess without getting anywhere good. Narrow boards are
> easy, but wide boards are not something a plane novice is going to be able
> to get to come out right straight off. I can't level all the various
> little conflicting cuts in this thing to save my life, and I'm waist deep
> in shavings. The OP might face a similar learning curve, and might ruin
> his bench. I still think his plan sounds like a crazy amount of work, but
> going out to buy a plane to solve the problem probably isn't going to get
> him there either.
Planing it smooth would be more difficult than simply using a scraper to get
the gunk off of it.
It would take some practice.
However, I haven't heard that the underside of the board is not flat.
Typically it would be and would be untouched.
Sometimes the easiest thing is to simply turn it over.
-Jack
"BeerBoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<bWAsb.378383$6C4.117863@pd7tw1no>...
> My questions are: Is the finish and other stuff on the slab going to toast
> my planer blades? ...and... Does anyone have a better idea?
It might, but planer knives are made to get dull and don't cost that
much to replace or resharpen. The bigger difficulty with cutting up
the top will be getting it back together. You will need to rejoint the
cut edges and accurately doing this on big heavy, seven foot long
slabs of maple is not the easiest thing, especially if you don't have
decent sized jointer. If you can't find a shop to surface the top for
you, then I would suggest cleaning off any gunk proud of the surface
using a cabinet scraper, then working over the entire top with a 4 x
24 belt sander. If your goal is to get the top much flatter than it is
now, then start with the router sled or hand plane.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 17:54:57 -0800, "RWM" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >I would use a hand scraper to get all of the "guck" off of the face and
then
> >use a hand plane to level the top. Do you have jointer plane? If not,
it
> >might be a good opportunity to get a used #7 or #8. There are plenty of
> >articles in the various magazines that outline how to level a large
surface
> >with hand planes. It is a great skill to know. It is pretty simple and
> >only involves a plane and winding sticks.
>
> Couldn't he do the router on a sled thingy and get it basically
> perfect?
>
> JP
That would also work.
On 13 Nov 2003 17:09:43 -0800, [email protected]
(Brian) wrote:
>> >
>> > Couldn't he do the router on a sled thingy and get it basically
>> > perfect?
>> >
>> > JP
>>
>> That would also work.
>
>
>Where can I read more about this "router on a sled thingy" ? I'd like
>to know what this is.
Take a trip to your local Borders or Barnes & Noble and look for a
book on shop aids or jigs for woodworkers. ("200 Original Shop Aids &
Jigs for Woodworkers" has it.) I would guess that a book dedicated to
router use would probably have it in there, and books on building
workbenches most likely will too.
IAE, the gist of it is that using a straight/mortisitng bit the router
makes passes across the bench-top while sitting in a sled that rides
on rails attached to the side of the bench. It's quite ingenious
really, and very simple. All it would take would be one glance at a
photo of it and you'd get it in a heartbeat.
No scanner and my digital camera broke while being impacted into my
sternum after an especially violent face-plant while skiing last year,
otherwise I'd try to post a pic.
JP
Oh yeah - it's referred to as a Slab Surfacing Jig in my book.
Been there. Done that. Have the t-shirt.
I agree that the ripping and planing idea is not a good idea. Each
piece will be heavy and hard to manage. You'll get sniped. Even under
the best of circumstances, machine planing doesn't make a thing flat.
It makes a thing parallel to the opposite side. You'll end up with 3
untrue surfaces which you'll hope to rejoin into one true surface.
Won't happen.
I've done the #7 thing. It's a good start if you have a good tool, work
diagonally and occasionally switch 90 degrees to the other diagonal, and
use winding sticks to watch your progress (both in terms of twist and
width flatness). I agree that scraping would be a good preliminary
before beginning to hand plane. Planing something this wide diagonally
would be hard for me as I'm neither tall or long-limbed. When I did it
to a 2'x6', I failed to watch width flatness carefully enough and
somehow ended up with a 1/16" crown. Otherwise, the top was very level
lengthwise. I lived with that for a few years, before doing the router
sled thing.
Router sled is demanding to build. The long rails (length of your top+)
must be ultraflat, at least after they are attached to top. Winding
sticks are again necessary when attaching/clamping long rails to your
top before routing. The sled rails (width+ of your top) must also be
ultraflat. Because the sled rails only contact the long rails, they
must have enough bulk to not sag under pressure of router weight and
your pressure on the router. The instructions I've seen don't tell you
to build in dust clearance, which is important because you lose flatness
if the router baseplate rides over the dust you're generating. I was
careful in building mine, and everything worked out nicely. I didn't
have to remove much material because I only had a crown to take out.
Still, it's a big job to build the sled. [Accuracy of the result can't
be better than the accuracy of the tool.] I built mine with the idea
that it would be useful for other things (like table and dresser tops),
but that turned out to be idealistic (thus far). Those kinds of tops
are thinner and harder to attach to rails; they also have more internal
spring.
ron