Would spray shellac or lacquer do the trick ?
I would think laying down a spray would not smudge
any of the writing.
On 4/28/2011 10:29 AM, steve robinson wrote:
> David Paste wrote:
>
>> On Apr 28, 1:40 pm, Puckdropper<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com>
>> wrote:
>>> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our
>>> house), and would like to add an inscription on it. With a
>>> regular ink pen or a sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions
>>> for something to add an inscription and still use shellac?
On Apr 28, 8:40=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house), a=
nd
> would like to add an inscription on it. =A0With a regular ink pen or a
> sharpie, the ink will run. =A0Any suggestions for something to add an
> inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Puckdropper
Paint and a fine model brush. Luthiers using shellac
have a similar problem. Alcohol makes dark oily woods
such as rosewood bleed, which can spoil a nice purfling
job. Trick is seal the wood with a couple of spit coats of
1 lb wiped on with a rag, being sure not to go back over
any areas unless they're dry, and to change the rag the
second it shows a hint of stain. Goes a lot faster than
it sounds.
Puckdropper wrote:
> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our
> house), and would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular
> ink pen or a sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for
> something to add an inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Puckdropper
Write *on* the shellac.
1. couple of shellac coats
2. sand with fine paper where you want to write (for tooth)
3. write
4. couple more coats of shellac (if you want)
Note: don't use ink that alcohol will dissolve.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
David Paste <[email protected]> wrote in
news:b14c6092-4d30-4656-8190-cbada0b45b02@hd10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>
> Oddly, I've done just this last week - would have provided photo's but
> the item has gone now.
>
> I used a Bic Biro pen (but I suppose any ball-point will do), scrawled
> what I had to on it, let it dry properly (doesn't take long), then
> *dabbed* a layer of shellac over the inked parts, and dabbed further
> out, letting the shellac fade - feathering? Not putting more shellac
> on the pad, just letting it run out, if you like.
>
> When this had dried out, I applied the shellac as normal. It seemed to
> work OK for me. No doubt someone with more experience (this is the
> only time I've done this) will be along soon. Obviously it'll pay you
> to experiment with an off-cut first!
>
> Cheers & good luck.
I'll have to try that. One sample last night didn't appear to run, just
lost a little color. Thanks!
Puckdropper
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Look for a paint marker. They come in a variety of colors, widths,
> and tip shapes, in oil, water color, acrylic, and probably other
> chemistries.
>
*snip*
If the paint marker is fine enough, it'll probably work well. I don't have
a lot of room to write (about half a business card lenghtwise), so need
something that'll give me a crisp line.
What about gel pens?
Puckdropper
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house),
> and
> would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular ink pen or a
> sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for something to add an
> inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Puckdropper
A few things you might consider trying:
. Burn in the inscription with a fine tipped soldering iron instead of
using ink or paint.
. Try using a UniBall 207 pen. The ink, once dry, does not bleed in
water or various organic solvents. Try it out on paper first just to be
sure. Full drying takes a few seconds.
. Use a dark pencil. I typically use this technique and I put a coat of
shellac on top. The pencil line will not fade and it does not dissolve in
shellac.
Good Luck.
David Paste <[email protected]> wrote in
news:b14c6092-4d30-4656-8190-cbada0b45b02@hd10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
> Oddly, I've done just this last week - would have provided photo's but
> the item has gone now.
>
> I used a Bic Biro pen (but I suppose any ball-point will do), scrawled
> what I had to on it, let it dry properly (doesn't take long), then
> *dabbed* a layer of shellac over the inked parts, and dabbed further
> out, letting the shellac fade - feathering? Not putting more shellac
> on the pad, just letting it run out, if you like.
>
> When this had dried out, I applied the shellac as normal. It seemed to
> work OK for me. No doubt someone with more experience (this is the
> only time I've done this) will be along soon. Obviously it'll pay you
> to experiment with an off-cut first!
>
> Cheers & good luck.
The padding method didn't smudge the ink too badly, but it's still not
what I was looking for. Maybe with several tries, I could get something
acceptable (I just used a regular ball-point.)
Maybe a light spray of shellac would work better.
Puckdropper
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> If the paint marker is fine enough, it'll probably work well. I don't
> have a lot of room to write (about half a business card lenghtwise),
> so need something that'll give me a crisp line.
>
> What about gel pens?
>
> Puckdropper
The gel pen didn't work. Maybe it needed much longer to dry (they're
usually smudge free within minutes), but the alcohol took it right off.
I'll keep going down the list. I'll look at paint markers when the stores
open in the morning.
Puckdropper
lektric dan <[email protected]> wrote in
news:f2f65b45-4005-4974-a534-d6708c59f711@l36g2000vbp.googlegroups.com:
> What I've done is to print whatever it is, on paper with a laser
> printer, then cut out and "glue" the paper down with the finish. The
> paper usually becomes transparent when soaked in the solvent, but you
> might need to play with some scrap wood and different papers in case
> it shows through. Laser printing is a must as the solvents in most
> finished will cause ink jet printing to bleed. Yet another way is to
> use the special transfer paper made for making printed circuits. You
> print on the paper with a laser printer or copier, then use an iron to
> transfer the image.
I've heard about a very similar method using regular paper and a laser
printer to make printed circuit board traces. The pattern is printed
backwards and then ironed on before etching. (They might have even used
glossy photo paper.)
That gives me an idea. Rather than write on the wood, write on a
business card and use the shellac to adhere the card to the work.
Sanding/routing a little recess for the card wouldn't take long, and
should be completly legible.
Quickly Robin, to the bat cave!
Puckdropper
David Paste <[email protected]> wrote in news:b59ae4e0-34cb-491b-8d3a-
[email protected]:
> On Apr 30, 10:02 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
*trim*
>> Maybe a light spray of shellac would work better.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> Could be. What would you use to spray it with? I've never really
> sprayed anything before (other than scratches on a car with a rattle
> can!)
>
> I suppose one of those little airbrush kits from an art shop won't be
> too much. I'd love to see how this turns out - might have to try it
> for myself in the week.
>
I've got a cheap air brush and a small spray booth. It's an external mix
that uses a lid and siphon tube set up, so if something doesn't work all
I've got to do is clean those parts.
The trick is getting the paint mixture thin enough and clean enough to
spray. I'll probably have to thin down the 2# cut of the Sealcoat and
strain it.
Shellac is available in a spray can as well, but probably wouldn't be
economical in quantity.
Puckdropper
On 30 Apr 2011 09:05:31 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>
>> If the paint marker is fine enough, it'll probably work well. I don't
>> have a lot of room to write (about half a business card lenghtwise),
>> so need something that'll give me a crisp line.
>>
>> What about gel pens?
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
>The gel pen didn't work. Maybe it needed much longer to dry (they're
>usually smudge free within minutes), but the alcohol took it right off.
>
>I'll keep going down the list. I'll look at paint markers when the stores
>open in the morning.
2 more thoughts: have a branding iron made (depending on how many of
these you're doing), or borrow a pyrographic pen set from a buddy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrography The pens and tips are much
smaller than soldering irons allowing for deft and dainty moves.
--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman
In article <[email protected]>,
Puckdropper says...
>
> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house), and
> would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular ink pen or a
> sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for something to add an
> inscription and still use shellac?
Look for a paint marker. They come in a variety of colors, widths, and
tip shapes, in oil, water color, acrylic, and probably other
chemistries.
An office supply place (Staples, etc) will generally have white, and
maybe silver or gold.
A craft store (Michaels, Jo-Ann, etc) will generally have more colors
and one or two brands.
If you've got a Dick Blick near you <http://www.dickblick.com> they'll
have a wide range of options.
Another option would be to use an artists' brush and whatever paint you
like.
A third option would be to get some inkjet decal paper and make a decal.
Whatever you go with, test on a scrap before you commit your good wood.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > lektric dan <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:f2f65b45-4005-4974-a534-d6708c59f711@l36g2000vbp.googlegroups.com:
> >
> >> What I've done is to print whatever it is, on paper with a laser
> >> printer, then cut out and "glue" the paper down with the finish.
> >> The
> >> paper usually becomes transparent when soaked in the solvent, but
> >> you
> >> might need to play with some scrap wood and different papers in
> >> case
> >> it shows through. Laser printing is a must as the solvents in most
> >> finished will cause ink jet printing to bleed. Yet another way is
> >> to
> >> use the special transfer paper made for making printed circuits.
> >> You
> >> print on the paper with a laser printer or copier, then use an iron
> >> to
> >> transfer the image.
> >
> > I've heard about a very similar method using regular paper and a
> > laser
> > printer to make printed circuit board traces. The pattern is
> > printed
> > backwards and then ironed on before etching. (They might have even
> > used
> > glossy photo paper.)
> >
> > That gives me an idea. Rather than write on the wood, write on a
> > business card and use the shellac to adhere the card to the work.
> > Sanding/routing a little recess for the card wouldn't take long, and
> > should be completly legible.
> >
> > Quickly Robin, to the bat cave!
> >
> > Puckdropper
>
> PD:
>
> If we're going that way, try a label maker. If you don't
> cotton to all the extra tape background, Xacto. Also,
> maybe you just want the letter forms without the label.
> Put the lettered label on. Take a pin. Punch through
> the letters carefully. Go for the stippled effect with
> paint after wiping or use the holes as a carving guide.
>
> Stencil cutting or stencil-cutting machines add another
> option to the field. By cutting a machine stencil of your
> expression and adding light spray paint coats, you can
> have a sterling result if you assure a crisp contact of
> stencil and wood.
>
> Artists normally seal calligraphy with a fixative spray in
> gloss or matte finish. It is designed to prevent pigment
> and dye deckling. Whether it works on all media--or
> under shellac--will be a matter of trial.
>
> Personally, I'd be a big fan of paint in this application.
Or he could just find a "Things Remembered" and for 10 bucks or so have
them make up a nice little brass plate with the information on it.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Puckdropper wrote:
>> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our
>> house), and would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular
>> ink pen or a sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for
>> something to add an inscription and still use shellac?
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> Write *on* the shellac.
DO:
Smarter.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
> 1. couple of shellac coats
> 2. sand with fine paper where you want to write (for tooth)
> 3. write
> 4. couple more coats of shellac (if you want)
>
> Note: don't use ink that alcohol will dissolve.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>
On Apr 28, 1:40=A0pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house), a=
nd
> would like to add an inscription on it. =A0With a regular ink pen or a
> sharpie, the ink will run. =A0Any suggestions for something to add an
> inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Puckdropper
Oddly, I've done just this last week - would have provided photo's but
the item has gone now.
I used a Bic Biro pen (but I suppose any ball-point will do), scrawled
what I had to on it, let it dry properly (doesn't take long), then
*dabbed* a layer of shellac over the inked parts, and dabbed further
out, letting the shellac fade - feathering? Not putting more shellac
on the pad, just letting it run out, if you like.
When this had dried out, I applied the shellac as normal. It seemed to
work OK for me. No doubt someone with more experience (this is the
only time I've done this) will be along soon. Obviously it'll pay you
to experiment with an off-cut first!
Cheers & good luck.
On Apr 30, 10:02=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> The padding method didn't smudge the ink too badly, but it's still not
> what I was looking for. =A0Maybe with several tries, I could get somethin=
g
> acceptable (I just used a regular ball-point.)
>
> Maybe a light spray of shellac would work better.
>
> Puckdropper
Could be. What would you use to spray it with? I've never really
sprayed anything before (other than scratches on a car with a rattle
can!)
I suppose one of those little airbrush kits from an art shop won't be
too much. I'd love to see how this turns out - might have to try it
for myself in the week.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Duh... winning!
Yeah, paint marker pens. They used to be very popular for junk yard
car parts. Once they dry they are bullet proof. I have always used the
silver as it shows up well on everything. Yes, they have them at
Michael's Craft stores. Technique: Buy, kind of pump the tip to get
paint flowing. Use like a pen. Put cap on pen. Wait 6 months to use
again. realize the pen has dried out. Buy a new one and repeat.
SP:
On tips that pull out of the body, I thoroughly
purify them with paint thinner after use, put a piece of
thin and strong plastic sheet into the hole ,put the
tip back and put another piece of the sheet under
the cap, storing the pen up in a sealed plastic
bag. The procedure can be modified for a fixed
tip. But I agree, they can be as cussed as you
say.
The fancy rim joints can now fill tires with Nitrogen.
A small tire can hold a lot of the stuff that can be
tapped for filling bags, paint can spaces and other
things that survive much longer without oxygen
doing its work.
From one vantage point, an
important concern for the inscription sealant
would be UV protection. Sign painters and
pin stripers use what works. I'd follow their
lead unless working with what is handy is fine.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
On Apr 28, 7:42 am, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Puckdropper says...
>
>
>
> > I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our
> > house), and
> > would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular ink pen or
> > a
> > sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for something to add an
> > inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Look for a paint marker. They come in a variety of colors, widths,
> and
> tip shapes, in oil, water color, acrylic, and probably other
> chemistries.
>
Duh... winning!
Yeah, paint marker pens. They used to be very popular for junk yard
car parts. Once they dry they are bullet proof. I have always used the
silver as it shows up well on everything. Yes, they have them at
Michael's Craft stores. Technique: Buy, kind of pump the tip to get
paint flowing. Use like a pen. Put cap on pen. Wait 6 months to use
again. realize the pen has dried out. Buy a new one and repeat.
On Apr 28, 7:42=A0am, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Puckdropper says...
>
>
>
> > I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house),=
and
> > would like to add an inscription on it. =A0With a regular ink pen or a
> > sharpie, the ink will run. =A0Any suggestions for something to add an
> > inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Look for a paint marker. =A0They come in a variety of colors, widths, and
> tip shapes, in oil, water color, acrylic, and probably other
> chemistries.
>
What I've done is to print whatever it is, on paper with a laser
printer, then cut out and "glue" the paper down with the finish. The
paper usually becomes transparent when soaked in the solvent, but you
might need to play with some scrap wood and different papers in case
it shows through. Laser printing is a must as the solvents in most
finished will cause ink jet printing to bleed. Yet another way is to
use the special transfer paper made for making printed circuits. You
print on the paper with a laser printer or copier, then use an iron to
transfer the image.
On Apr 28, 7:40=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house), a=
nd
> would like to add an inscription on it. =A0With a regular ink pen or a
> sharpie, the ink will run. =A0Any suggestions for something to add an
> inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Puckdropper
On Apr 30, 5:10=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> lektric dan <[email protected]> wrote innews:f2f65b45-4005-4974-a534-=
[email protected]:
>
> > What I've done is to print whatever it is, on paper with a laser
> > printer, then cut out and "glue" the paper down with the finish. =A0The
> > paper usually becomes transparent when soaked in the solvent, but you
> > might need to play with some scrap wood and different papers in case
> > it shows through. =A0Laser printing is a must as the solvents in most
> > finished will cause ink jet printing to bleed. =A0Yet another way is to
> > use the special transfer paper made for making printed circuits. =A0You
> > print on the paper with a laser printer or copier, then use an iron to
> > transfer the image.
>
> I've heard about a very similar method using regular paper and a laser
> printer to make printed circuit board traces. =A0The pattern is printed
> backwards and then ironed on before etching. =A0(They might have even use=
d
> glossy photo paper.)
You can also transfer the image by wiping the back of the
copy with an acetone-soaked rag.
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our
> house), and
> would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular ink pen or a
> sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for something to add an
> inscription and still use shellac?
>
> Puckdropper
PD:
I've done calligraphy on paper and engraved in rock.
My count of trials with wood is one. It worked fine
but I didn't use ink out of durability concerns in the
location.
You haven't said what kind of letter forms will
be involved in your inscription. That would specify
qualifications. If you have a wood surface that
won't have bleeding considerations from the grain
and want block letter forms, look at the metal nib
pens with permanent ink. Just don't make the
mistake of pressing harder than you have to.
Covering text rendered with them and said ink
should be easy.
Otherwise, if sun exposure isn't a threat and
your wood is softer, try the fiber (marker)
calligraphy pens. Once dried, shellac sealing
ought to work, though since ink compositions
vary by manufacturer, trial is sensible.
The paint pens I've tried didn't boast crisp
line definition. Maybe better models deny
that. If you find them, an announcement would
be welcome.
A professional effort wouldn't be exorbitant.
Call your local art-supply store or art support
group/association and eventually you'll have
names.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
In article <[email protected]>,
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our house), and
>would like to add an inscription on it. With a regular ink pen or a
>sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions for something to add an
>inscription and still use shellac?
>
>Puckdropper
It's easy to burn it in and there are cheap wood burning kits from HF
among other places, some just a few dollars. If you have a soldering
iron you can use that. Do a little practicing on scrap first.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On Thu, 28 Apr 2011 22:26:15 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:
> If the paint marker is fine enough, it'll probably work well. I don't
> have a lot of room to write (about half a business card lenghtwise), so
> need something that'll give me a crisp line.
>
> What about gel pens?
One thing I didn't see mentioned was the "archival" pens. I've used them
but only on top of a finish, not under it.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> lektric dan <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:f2f65b45-4005-4974-a534-d6708c59f711@l36g2000vbp.googlegroups.com:
>
>> What I've done is to print whatever it is, on paper with a laser
>> printer, then cut out and "glue" the paper down with the finish.
>> The
>> paper usually becomes transparent when soaked in the solvent, but
>> you
>> might need to play with some scrap wood and different papers in
>> case
>> it shows through. Laser printing is a must as the solvents in most
>> finished will cause ink jet printing to bleed. Yet another way is
>> to
>> use the special transfer paper made for making printed circuits.
>> You
>> print on the paper with a laser printer or copier, then use an iron
>> to
>> transfer the image.
>
> I've heard about a very similar method using regular paper and a
> laser
> printer to make printed circuit board traces. The pattern is
> printed
> backwards and then ironed on before etching. (They might have even
> used
> glossy photo paper.)
>
> That gives me an idea. Rather than write on the wood, write on a
> business card and use the shellac to adhere the card to the work.
> Sanding/routing a little recess for the card wouldn't take long, and
> should be completly legible.
>
> Quickly Robin, to the bat cave!
>
> Puckdropper
PD:
If we're going that way, try a label maker. If you don't
cotton to all the extra tape background, Xacto. Also,
maybe you just want the letter forms without the label.
Put the lettered label on. Take a pin. Punch through
the letters carefully. Go for the stippled effect with
paint after wiping or use the holes as a carving guide.
Stencil cutting or stencil-cutting machines add another
option to the field. By cutting a machine stencil of your
expression and adding light spray paint coats, you can
have a sterling result if you assure a crisp contact of
stencil and wood.
Artists normally seal calligraphy with a fixative spray in
gloss or matte finish. It is designed to prevent pigment
and dye deckling. Whether it works on all media--or
under shellac--will be a matter of trial.
Personally, I'd be a big fan of paint in this application.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
David Paste wrote:
> On Apr 28, 1:40 pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com>
> wrote:
> > I've got some special wood (that came from an old tree near our
> > house), and would like to add an inscription on it. With a
> > regular ink pen or a sharpie, the ink will run. Any suggestions
> > for something to add an inscription and still use shellac?
> >
> > Puckdropper
>
> Oddly, I've done just this last week - would have provided photo's
> but the item has gone now.
>
> I used a Bic Biro pen (but I suppose any ball-point will do),
> scrawled what I had to on it, let it dry properly (doesn't take
> long), then dabbed a layer of shellac over the inked parts, and
> dabbed further out, letting the shellac fade - feathering? Not
> putting more shellac on the pad, just letting it run out, if you
> like.
>
> When this had dried out, I applied the shellac as normal. It seemed
> to work OK for me. No doubt someone with more experience (this is
> the only time I've done this) will be along soon. Obviously it'll
> pay you to experiment with an off-cut first!
>
> Cheers & good luck.
Use an engraving tool fill script black or very dark polish , flat
back till flush then over polish with your shellac
Use a fountain pen with walnut stain is another technique i have seen
used
If your going down the ink path use black indian ink and do a test
patch first on a bit of scrap