How do you store your various glues?
With three different glues, I seldom have success.
- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.
- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.
Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
Thanks
TMT
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> writes:
>The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
>still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
>solvent evaporation process.
I bought a can (about 250ml) of Contact cement about 15 years ago. Every
12 months or so I prise open the lid and use some for a few jobs I've
saved up, then after use carefully tap the lid all around the edge to make
sure it seals well. The cement is as liquid as it was when purchased and
there is no solidified cement in the can or on its sides. If only all
adhesives were so reliable and could be packaged so effectively!
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote: (clip) How do you store your various glues? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have a small bottle of super glue that has been in my refrigerator for
years, and it is still usable. I have other bottles of super glue that have
been on the shelf in my shop/garage for months to years. The oldest ones
(years) are now solid. The newest (months) are A-OK. How long do yours
take to go bad?
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
buy smaller quantities and use it faster.
"My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
of the measures I take to seal 'em up. "
In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece
of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to
normal indoor temperatures and humidity.
TMT
Hello TMT:
I have had very little success storing the cyanoacrylate adhesives
(Krazy glue or Super Glue) that come in the tiny tubes. It hardens
after the first or second use.
The larger half-ounce or 1 oz bottles from hobby stores seem to last
much better, even at room temperature. They do have a tendency to
polymerize at the tip and the lid fills up with crud, but cutting off
the tip and using the fine tips that the hobby store has, seems to
help. I used a 1/2 oz bottle of thin CA for about six months.....it
ran out before it went bad.
Best -- Terry
"I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for
water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue,
water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation
process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if
you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense
in
it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it
out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working
temperature.
er"
Good point about the potential of condensation that might cause a
problem with the super glue.
I do know that I store the super glue in a closed container with
dessicant. The glue is removed from the jar, used, and replaced in the
jar again in a very short time so it is exposed to any moisture for a
very short time.
The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
solvent evaporation process.
TMT
"the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
it.that works ok.
then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.
mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up. "
I used to buy the mini-bottle...and quit when I only got one use from
it.
I now buy the mini foil tubes...and they seldom last two applications.
Anyone know how they prevent the factory equipment from plugging up
with super glue gone bad?
TMT
I purchased this stuff at the Pamona Swap Meet and I was told to put it
in the FREEZER and it stays perfect it will fast activate with SIMPLE
GREEN and when you add backing soda makes a super bond. Ed ke6bnl
MxBon 50g Bottle
MxBon 50g Bottle
SKU:
MXBON 105 is a high strength, instant bonding adhesive which can be
used for virtually any type of fastening job. It's a single component
that bonds almost all close-fitting smooth surfaces in second at room
temperature. It requires no mixing, no heating, and no clamping. It
contains no solvent, has low toxicity, mild odor and is non flammable.
HOW IT WORKS: MXBON 105 polymerizes when pressed into a thin film. The
very thin layer of water moisture present on most surfaces in
combination with the absence of oxygen (an anaerobic bond) acts as an
alkali, which is the catalyst that acts in bonding. Excess traces of
water will prevent the effective bonding of the materials.
SURFACE PREPARATION: Clean any oils or water by using acetone or M.E.K
(glass should be cleaned with alcohol to prevent any residue
accumulation). Metals should be free of rust and debris. Roughing up
the surface of metals (with sandpaper) will increase the bonding.
Remove any traces of the old glue if the surface has been bonded
before.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Apply a small amount of MXBON 105_ to the surface
to be bonded. (Usually one side). Lap them together to achieve a thin,
uniform application. Then fix them securely at prescribed position. The
thinner the adhesive application, the stronger the bond will be.
CARE/STORAGE: Avoid direct sunlight. Store in a cool, dry place.
(20-25=B0C) (68-77=B0F). For long term storage, refrigeration or freezer
is recommended.
Hints and Tricks Hint#1 Use any house hold baking soda as instant bondo
type filler. Can be used even for small plumbing leaks, medal filler,
substitution for a wood puddy etc. Can also be used with shavings of
like material for matching color.ie jewlery making etc. Will in most
cases take high heat and water etc. Hint#2 Instead of buying expensive
glue remover use Acetone. (seperating glued fingers) etc. Acetone also
makes a great cleaner/preparer for glass/medal. Hint#3 Use ordinary
hand lotion as a precautionary to avoid adhesion of fingers/skin.
Complete with ultra fine applicators to avoid excessive glue use and
proper glue dispersal. Complete with Special No-clog lid (needle bulit
into cap) to consistently keep lid free of glue build up. GLUES
VIRTUALLY ANY MATERIAL SUCH AS: PLASTIC/RUBBER including polyurethane,
neoprene, fiberglass, Kevlar, graphite, polycarbonate, PVC, abs,
polystyrene, Teflon, etc. =B7 O-Ring, vacuum belt, and gasket repair or
installation. =B7 Electronic manufacturing repair. =B7 Auto weather
stripping, dashboard and molding repair. =B7 Pool equipment. =B7
Fishing equipment (lures, poles, etc). =B7 Toys, Models, RC, etc. =B7
Surf boards/ wake boards METAL including steel, aluminum, stainless
steel, copper, brass, etc. =B7 Jewelry repair/manufacturing =B7 Thread
locking =B7 Machining parts (auto, industrial) =B7 Knife making WOOD
=B7 Antique restoration =B7 Wood refinishing =B7 Furniture making and
repair =B7 Architectural models =B7 Musical instruments =B7 Picture
frame manufacturing and repair =B7 Crafts ALSO, GLUES MINERALS/ GEMS/
COMPOSITES/ LEATHER and millions of other uses.
PRICE: $15.00
You are right. I looked it up on the Three Bond web site and it is OH
that cures it. I was going by what I remembered for Eastman 910 data
sheets about fifty years ago. And obviously I remembered wrong. Funny
though that you can put a drop on something and nothing happens until
you put something else against it and squeeze. I guess it is because
it has little surface area when it is a drop on a substrate. And when
you squeeze it with another piece, you spread it out so it can contact
the moisture on the surfaces of both pieces.
Dan
Martin Whybrow wrote:
>
> Dan
> Sorry, it does cure in the presence of moisture; from Henkel-Loctite's MSDS
> for cyanoacrylate glues:
> Polymerized by contact with water, alcohols,
> amines, alkalies.
> Loctite thread locking agents such as 222, 241, 270 are anaerobic adhesives
> however.
> Martin
> .--
> martin<dot here>whybrow<at here>ntlworld<dot here>com
SoCalMike wrote:
> Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> >
> > - Super glue
> > With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> > again the tube has hardened.
>
> i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99
> cent store.
>
> FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it.
>
> the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
> it.that works ok.
>
> then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.
>
> mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up.
I found that with polyurethane glues the scum which forms on the
surface can't be avoided but if you store the containers inverted then
the scum won't clog up the nozzle. Refrigerating CA thin works well
as I have been refilling the little bottles out of an 8oz bottle that
I bought over three year ago.
Phil AMA609
If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture, it follows that we should only
use it in humidity-controlled rooms, and shoot some moisture removing
inert gas into the bottle after use. CO2 is easy to obtain, or, if you
own a MIG welder, you've got a bottle of argon handy. It also follows
that it should have greater shelf life once opened in Arizona (low
humidity) than in Florida (off the scale humidity). Is this so? If it
is, is it worth all the trouble? Just buy smaller bottles of glue and
build faster! :-)
Max Mahanke wrote:
>Anyway, CA glue... cues in the
>presences of moister.
>
>
>
>
>Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>> How do you store your various glues?
>>
>> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>>
>> - Super glue
>> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
>> again the tube has hardened.
>> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
>> dessicant in the refrigerator.
I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that
are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em.
>> - Contact glue
>> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
>> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
>> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work)
to let it sit...
>> - Elmer's woodworking glue
>> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
>> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
>> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
>> tightened.
The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as
long as the cover is on the bottle.
My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
of the measures I take to seal 'em up.
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
I don't use this often, but a bottle of the gel version seems to be just
fine after a year or so at varying temperature in the unheated shop.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
I use this a bit more than super glue, generally using the good
flammable version for laminate. I don't recall ever having it go bad on
me. The nonflammable and newer latex version may have different shelf
lives.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is
the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have
one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the
smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the
shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all
temperatures without any problems.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
I don't know as you seem to have particularly bad luck. Perhaps read the
container for recommended storage conditions.
Pete C.
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
>
> My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
> They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
> of the measures I take to seal 'em up.
Lee Valley Tools sells some caps for tubes that look like tiny red
condoms. They're cheap -- a few bucks for 20-25, IIRC. Squeeze a tiny
ball of caulk or whatever out of the tip (supposedly to be sure the air
is out of the tip) then put one of these jobbies on the tip and unroll
it (they're about 1.5" long). When you need the caulk again, just roll
up the cap and it's ready to go. Afterwards, the cap can be reused.
I've had open tubes of silicone caulk, latex caulk and Liquid Nails that
have been fine when opened after being stored for a year in the basement.
Tove
Thanks, that's a keeper. Cheers, JG
David wrote:
> The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
>
> >>Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> >>
> >>>How do you store your various glues?
> >>>
> >>>With three different glues, I seldom have success.
> >>>
> >>>- Super glue
> >>>With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> >>>again the tube has hardened.
> >>>I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> >>>dessicant in the refrigerator.
> >
> >
> > I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that
> > are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em.
> >
> >
> >>>- Contact glue
> >>>With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> >>>use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> >>>secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
> >
> >
> > Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work)
> > to let it sit...
> >
> >
> >>>- Elmer's woodworking glue
> >>>With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> >>>the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> >>>the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> >>>tightened.
> >
> >
> > The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as
> > long as the cover is on the bottle.
> >
> > My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
> > They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
> > of the measures I take to seal 'em up.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening?
> wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch
> or so above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then
> squeeze the caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then
> release the pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just
> remove the tape and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with
> the tape. then you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has
> just been opened for the first time. You can repeat this process over
> and over. I stumbled upon it after using the worthless "trick" of
> shoving a nail into the tip, which doesn't work with a crap.
>
> it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks.
>
> Dave
Oleg Lego wrote:
>
> The Pete C. entity posted thusly:
>
> >I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is
> >the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have
> >one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the
> >smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the
> >shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all
> >temperatures without any problems.
>
> I have always kept my Titebond in the house, as I wondered about the
> cold. What do you call 'cold winters'?
North Texas these days so not too cold, but get down to 30s on occasion
in the shop. Highs in the shop would be upper 90s.
Pete C.
Antipodean Bucket Farmer <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article
><[email protected]>,
>[email protected] says...
>>
>> "Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> writes:
>> >The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
>> >still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
>> >solvent evaporation process.
>
>> I bought a can (about 250ml) of Contact cement about 15 years ago. Every
>> 12 months or so I prise open the lid and use some for a few jobs I've
>> saved up, then after use carefully tap the lid all around the edge to make
>> sure it seals well. The cement is as liquid as it was when purchased and
>> there is no solidified cement in the can or on its sides. If only all
>> adhesives were so reliable and could be packaged so effectively!
>
>
>Yeah-but, the "super" glue and airplane-model glue
>formulas are much more aggressive.
>
>It is really annoying to go around with this tube
>permanently stuck in my nostril.
Be thankful you weren't repairing hemorrhoids.
Too_Many_Tools <[email protected]> wrote
> How do you store your various glues?
I dont do anything special with the hot melt gun sticks, they store fine.
I dont try to store anything else, just get some more for
a particular task that the hot melt glue gun isnt suitable for.
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT <skiddz "AT"
adelphia "DOT" net> wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:16:18 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>> I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
>> applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
>>
>> Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
>> whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet
>> for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
>> equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your
>> superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates
>> the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on
>> the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe,
>> there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb.
>> econopak direct from colombia.
>>
>> So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
>> it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
>> working temperature.
> Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
> than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
That's completely mangling the physics.
What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.
The drying out effect is actually due to ice condensing out of the
air on the coldest surfaces and its that effect that drys things out.
Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
> Rod Speed wrote
>> The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT <skiddz "AT"
>> adelphia "DOT" net> wrote
>>> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>>>> I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
>>>> method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
>>>> Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
>>>> that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a
>>>> magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
>>>> temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
>>>> Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
>>>> all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
>>>> letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
>>>> do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
>>>> buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
>>>> So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
>>>> it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
>>>> working temperature.
>>> Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
>>> than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
>> That's completely mangling the physics.
>> What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.
> It's going to be the dew point for the air
> localized around the cool object, I think.
It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.
> You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature,
> meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew
> point, but because the air temp drops around the object you
> cross the dew point and condensation occurs.
Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp
at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then.
> But it's been sloshing around in the back of my
> head for a while now, so I may have that wrong.
Yeah, it is rather mangled.
Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
> Rod Speed wrote
>> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>>> Rod Speed wrote
>>>> The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT <skiddz
>>>> "AT" adelphia "DOT" net> wrote
>>>>> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>>>>>> I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
>>>>>> method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
>>>>>> Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
>>>>>> that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is
>>>>>> a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
>>>>>> temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
>>>>>> Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
>>>>>> all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
>>>>>> letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
>>>>>> do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
>>>>>> buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
>>>>>> So if you are going to use this method remember
>>>>>> that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until
>>>>>> it has set for awhile at the working temperature.
>>>>> Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
>>>>> than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
>>>> That's completely mangling the physics.
>>>> What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.
>>> It's going to be the dew point for the air
>>> localized around the cool object, I think.
>> It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.
> You seem to still be thinking inside the box. :)
Nope, you are.
> Remove the object from the icebox, and
> what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant.
I wasnt even commenting on that situation, I was
JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.
> I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
> and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox.
Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.
> You won't get any condensation (unless relative hum. is 100%)
> until you cross the dew point. You'll do this even if the relative
> humidity isn't 100% in a localized area around a cool object if
> the object cools the surrounding area to the dew point.
Irrelevant to his DRYING OUT claim which I was commenting on.
>>> You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature,
>>> meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew
>>> point, but because the air temp drops around the object you
>>> cross the dew point and condensation occurs.
>> Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp
>> at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then.
>>> But it's been sloshing around in the back of my
>>> head for a while now, so I may have that wrong.
>> Yeah, it is rather mangled.
> I assume the rest of your post is still inside the box. ;)
Nope, yours is.
Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
> Rod Speed wrote
>> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>>> Rod Speed wrote
>>>> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>>>>> Rod Speed wrote
>>>>>> The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT <skiddz
>>>>>> "AT" adelphia "DOT" net> wrote
>>>>>>> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>>>>>>>> I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
>>>>>>>> method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
>>>>>>>> Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
>>>>>>>> that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is
>>>>>>>> a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
>>>>>>>> temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
>>>>>>>> Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
>>>>>>>> all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
>>>>>>>> letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
>>>>>>>> do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
>>>>>>>> buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
>>>>>>>> So if you are going to use this method remember
>>>>>>>> that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until
>>>>>>>> it has set for awhile at the working temperature.
>>>>>>> Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
>>>>>>> than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
>>>>>> That's completely mangling the physics.
>>>>>> What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.
>>>>> It's going to be the dew point for the air
>>>>> localized around the cool object, I think.
>>>> It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.
>>> You seem to still be thinking inside the box. :)
>> Nope, you are.
>>> Remove the object from the icebox, and
>>> what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant.
>> I wasnt even commenting on that situation, I was
>> JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.
>>> I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
>>> and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the
>>> icebox.
>> Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.
> Well I don't know anything about the inside of a refrigerator that
> would indicate it was governed by any other laws of physics than
> those present in the outside world. It all still applies.
No it doesnt. There is no equivalent outside the fridge of
the area where frost forms inside the fridge. Its that that
produces the drying out of food etc that isnt covered etc.
> And he might be right that the freezer is drying it out.
That wasnt what he said about the MECHANISM.
> If the object is embedded or surrounded by ice its temperature will
> oscillilate with a much lower amplitude than that of the refrigerator
> air.
Irrelevant what was being discussed, THE DRYING OUT.
> And it'll probably, on average, be higher than the
> average temperature of the air in the freezer.
Wrong again.
> Therefore its vapor pressure will be marginally higher
> and there *will* be a net flow of water vapor out.
Utterly mangled all over again with what causes DRYING OUT.
> It happens to meat that's ruined by "freezer burn",
Nope, not the way you claim.
> which is just partially freeze dried meat.
No its not. Its the dried out meat. Dying out even when frozen.
SoCalMike wrote:
> Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>
>>
>> - Super glue
>> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
>> again the tube has hardened.
>
>
> i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99
> cent store.
>
> FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it.
>
> the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
> it.that works ok.
>
> then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.
>
> mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up.
I recently bought superglue in a squeeze-pen dispenser...I don't know
how it's going to stand up to the test of time, but it is very easy to
control the application.
Yeah, but I meant a LONG time Before. You get the picture! Read my mind,
not my test!
Bob Swinney
"Leo Lichtman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Robert Swinney" wrote: And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before
> needed. Sorry, I couldn't resist!
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> And I can't resist either. I ALWAYS mix my epoxy BEFORE I apply it.
>
Fri, Jan 27, 2006, 9:53am (EST-3) [email protected]
(Too_Many_Tools) doth wonder:
How do you store your various glues?
With three different glues, I seldom have success. <snip>
Sooper glue. Once it's opened, it ain't gonna last too long. You
buys the smallest amount you plan on using, and get over it.
Contact cement. Never heard it called contact glue. I had a can
in my laundry room, for probably 20 years. Opened it up, and prt of it
was still usable. I guess the secret is, seal the can tight.
Elmer's Woodworking Glue. I don't use it. I use Titebond II, and
if it thickens a bit before I can use it all, I put a bit of water in
it, and shake it up. No prob. Just now I've got some that's well over
a year old, and still doing just fine.
JOAT
You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
> Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>> How do you store your various glues?
>>
>> - Super glue
Buy small amounts. It goes bad fast, and humidity is the "cure"
trigger. Fortunatly, it's pretty cheap.
>>
>> - Contact glue
My dad has some that's 30 years old that he still uses. For most mere
mortals, who aren't doing production countertop installs, buy only what
you need for a job or that you'll use in a couple months.
>>
>> - Elmer's woodworking glue
I've seen this grow mold, but I USUALLY go through it long before that
happens.
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
> Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm
> air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
Rod is right. There's may be less moisture in the air at that
temperature, as you say, but it'll still be absorbed.
Even more so, perhaps, if you place the glue next to the cooling fin
it'll be often cooler than the surrounding refrigerated air, and you'll
be in the same situation as when you just take it out into the ambient
air. Good to keep it in airtight plastic.
er
--
email not valid
[email protected] wrote:
> Geoff Sanders wrote:
>
>>If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,
>
>
> It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.
>
> Dan
>
I think moisture is necessary, Dan.
[email protected] wrote:
> Geoff Sanders wrote:
>
>>If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,
>
>
> It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.
>
> Dan
>
thread locking compounds like Loctite are anaerobic
Dave
Must be sorry you asked the question by now - who said anything about caulk?
Anyway, CA glue ( like urethane glue, i.e Gorilla glue) cues in the
presences of moister. Air contains moister so its important to get as much
air out of the container as possible before you store it. Since it
chemically cures rather than drying by evaporation, the fridge is a good
idea since most chemical reactions are directly proportionally to temp.
Also, store the container upside down so the air in the container is 'at the
bottom' and not the top where you're trying to get the glue out.
Yellow glue is a similar problem for a different reason. It cures through
evaporation which air in the container will facilitate. Again, squeeze the
air out. It will thicken if frozen and Titebond says you can remedy this by
stirring. If it thickens without freezing I'd say its started curing and
there's little hope of reviving it. Having said this, Titebond claims its
shelf life in years. So I think air is the problem if you glue is
thickening.
I have to admit ignorance on contact cement, but I assume it could be
revived with the relevant solvent (lacquer thinner?) since you have to worry
about releasing contact cement glued veneer by spraying lacquer on it.
My glues are all store on their heads with the air (well most of it)
squeezed out it.
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> "My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
>> They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
>> of the measures I take to seal 'em up. "
>
> In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece
> of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to
> normal indoor temperatures and humidity.
I have the same frustration with silicones and the likes. I love the
GOOP-type products, as well as high-temp silicone sealer. The stuff is
expensive and it seems I only get to use it once or twice before the whole
tube sets up. :-(
Good flying,
desmobob
In article
<[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> writes:
> >The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
> >still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
> >solvent evaporation process.
> I bought a can (about 250ml) of Contact cement about 15 years ago. Every
> 12 months or so I prise open the lid and use some for a few jobs I've
> saved up, then after use carefully tap the lid all around the edge to make
> sure it seals well. The cement is as liquid as it was when purchased and
> there is no solidified cement in the can or on its sides. If only all
> adhesives were so reliable and could be packaged so effectively!
Yeah-but, the "super" glue and airplane-model glue
formulas are much more aggressive.
It is really annoying to go around with this tube
permanently stuck in my nostril.
--
Want Freebies?
http://www.TheFreeStuffList.com/
Check The Free Stuff List
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Geoff Sanders wrote:
> > If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,
>
> It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.
>
> Dan
>
Dan
Sorry, it does cure in the presence of moisture; from Henkel-Loctite's MSDS
for cyanoacrylate glues:
Polymerized by contact with water, alcohols,
amines, alkalies.
Loctite thread locking agents such as 222, 241, 270 are anaerobic adhesives
however.
Martin
.--
martin<dot here>whybrow<at here>ntlworld<dot here>com
I press masking tape over the open tip and then wrap the rest around the
nozzle. I get up to 6 months or more with caulk and silicone. Sometimes you
have to squirt out thickened caulk or silicone. The High temp silicone in Al
tubes I put a piece of Al foil over the end and put the cap back on lasts
for years that way. Don't have a fix for super glue yet.
Karl
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
> They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
> of the measures I take to seal 'em up. "
>
> In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece
> of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to
> normal indoor temperatures and humidity.
>
> TMT
>
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Yes tight lids and normal temperatures.
Although I can remember the time that the damn
super glue hadn't hardened by the the next time I
wanted to use it.
Contact glue with eventually harden even if
sealed, probably 2-3 years.
Elmers woodworking glue, is that the same as Elmer
carpenters glue (yellow)? I recently replace a
gallon of carpenters glue that I bought at least
20 years ago. And yes the last 1/2" was a little
thick. You definitely have a problem if yours goes
bad in less than 10 years. Besides, when it
thickens a little, just a bit of water, mix well,
and you will never know the difference.
And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before needed. Sorry, I couldn't
resist!
Bob Swinney
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Rod Speed wrote:
> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>
>>Rod Speed wrote
>>
>>>The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT <skiddz "AT"
>>>adelphia "DOT" net> wrote
>>>
>>>>Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>
>
>>>>>I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage
>>>>>method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
>
>
>>>>>Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider
>>>>>that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a
>>>>>magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its
>>>>>temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
>>>>>Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it
>>>>>all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than
>>>>>letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I
>>>>>do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're
>>>>>buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
>
>
>>>>>So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
>>>>>it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
>>>>>working temperature.
>
>
>>>>Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
>>>>than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
>
>
>>>That's completely mangling the physics.
>
>
>>>What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.
>
>
>>It's going to be the dew point for the air
>>localized around the cool object, I think.
>
>
> It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge.
You seem to still be thinking inside the box. :) Remove the object from
the icebox, and what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant.
I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox.
You won't get any condensation (unless relative hum. is 100%) until you
cross the dew point. You'll do this even if the relative humidity isn't
100% in a localized area around a cool object if the object cools the
surrounding area to the dew point.
>>You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature,
>>meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew
>>point, but because the air temp drops around the object you
>>cross the dew point and condensation occurs.
>
>
> Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp
> at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then.
>
>
>>But it's been sloshing around in the back of my
>>head for a while now, so I may have that wrong.
>
>
> Yeah, it is rather mangled.
I assume the rest of your post is still inside the box. ;)
er
--
email not valid
Charles Spitzer wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>How do you store your various glues?
>>>>>
>>>>>With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>>>>>
>>>>>- Super glue
>>>>>With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
>>>>>again the tube has hardened.
>>>>>I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
>>>>>dessicant in the refrigerator.
>>>
>>>
>>>I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that
>>>are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>- Contact glue
>>>>>With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
>>>>>use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
>>>>>secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>>>
>>>
>>>Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work)
>>>to let it sit...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>- Elmer's woodworking glue
>>>>>With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
>>>>>the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
>>>>>the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
>>>>>tightened.
>>>
>>>
>>>The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as
>>>long as the cover is on the bottle. My "longevity" issue is with tubes
>>>of caulk or silicone sealant..
>>>They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
>>>of the measures I take to seal 'em up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening?
>>wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch or so
>>above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then squeeze the
>>caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then release the
>>pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just remove the tape
>>and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with the tape. then
>>you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has just been opened for
>>the first time. You can repeat this process over and over. I stumbled
>>upon it after using the worthless "trick" of shoving a nail into the tip,
>>which doesn't work with a crap.
>>
>>it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks.
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> how is this different than the tubes that come with caps? i have the same
> problem with them? i've cut open the tubes when i can't get anything to come
> out, and the curing seems to work it's way down the tube from both ends once
> they're used.
>
> also note that they have an expiration date. if past that, they sometimes
> don't harden at all. also, heat seems to degrade them when in storage, or at
> least when i keep them in my garage, which is probably 130 or more in the
> summer, it does.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
>
>
forget the caps. use the tape.
dave
How long do you leave the glue stored?????
Elmers will last a year or so if capped.
Contact cement should last almost indefinitely if properly capped.
Don'e store either one of these in your fridge!
CA has a definite shelf life if approximately 1 year from date of
manufacture when properly stored. Storage is generally cool or cold
(refrigerator) and away from light. I have had CA last months uncapped in
my garage. If you use accelerators, your shelf life will be less.
--
Paul McIntosh
RC-Bearings.com
"when steel just isn't enough"
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99
cent store.
FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it.
the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
it.that works ok.
then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.
mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up.
Rod Speed wrote:
> Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote
>>I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low,
>>and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox.
>
>
> Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim.
Well I don't know anything about the inside of a refrigerator that would
indicate it was governed by any other laws of physics than those present
in the outside world. It all still applies.
And he might be right that the freezer is drying it out.
If the object is embedded or surrounded by ice its temperature will
oscillilate with a much lower amplitude than that of the refrigerator
air. And it'll probably, on average, be higher than the average
temperature of the air in the freezer. Therefore its vapor pressure
will be marginally higher and there *will* be a net flow of water vapor out.
It happens to meat that's ruined by "freezer burn", which is just
partially freeze dried meat.
er
--
email not valid
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
>>Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>>
>>>How do you store your various glues?
>>>
>>>With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>>>
>>>- Super glue
>>>With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
>>>again the tube has hardened.
>>>I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
>>>dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
>
> I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that
> are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em.
>
>
>>>- Contact glue
>>>With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
>>>use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
>>>secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
>
> Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work)
> to let it sit...
>
>
>>>- Elmer's woodworking glue
>>>With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
>>>the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
>>>the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
>>>tightened.
>
>
> The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as
> long as the cover is on the bottle.
>
> My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
> They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
> of the measures I take to seal 'em up.
>
>
>
>
would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening?
wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch
or so above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then
squeeze the caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then
release the pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just
remove the tape and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with
the tape. then you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has
just been opened for the first time. You can repeat this process over
and over. I stumbled upon it after using the worthless "trick" of
shoving a nail into the tip, which doesn't work with a crap.
it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks.
Dave
On 27 Jan 2006 11:34:18 -0800, "Too_Many_Tools"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece
>of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to
>normal indoor temperatures and humidity.
I stuff a 16d nail down the nozzle and wrap the end with duct tape.
Still doesn't seem to work. Even the cap that comes with some of the
tubes doesn't work. I'm caulk cursed I guess. :)
The Pete C. entity posted thusly:
>I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is
>the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have
>one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the
>smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the
>shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all
>temperatures without any problems.
I have always kept my Titebond in the house, as I wondered about the
cold. What do you call 'cold winters'?
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
>
>>>Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>>>
>>>>How do you store your various glues?
>>>>
>>>>With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>>>>
>>>>- Super glue
>>>>With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
>>>>again the tube has hardened.
>>>>I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
>>>>dessicant in the refrigerator.
>>
>>
>> I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that
>> are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em.
>>
>>
>>>>- Contact glue
>>>>With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
>>>>use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
>>>>secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>>
>>
>> Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work)
>> to let it sit...
>>
>>
>>>>- Elmer's woodworking glue
>>>>With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
>>>>the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
>>>>the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
>>>>tightened.
>>
>>
>> The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as
>> long as the cover is on the bottle. My "longevity" issue is with tubes
>> of caulk or silicone sealant..
>> They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
>> of the measures I take to seal 'em up.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening?
> wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch or so
> above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then squeeze the
> caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then release the
> pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just remove the tape
> and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with the tape. then
> you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has just been opened for
> the first time. You can repeat this process over and over. I stumbled
> upon it after using the worthless "trick" of shoving a nail into the tip,
> which doesn't work with a crap.
>
> it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks.
>
> Dave
how is this different than the tubes that come with caps? i have the same
problem with them? i've cut open the tubes when i can't get anything to come
out, and the curing seems to work it's way down the tube from both ends once
they're used.
also note that they have an expiration date. if past that, they sometimes
don't harden at all. also, heat seems to degrade them when in storage, or at
least when i keep them in my garage, which is probably 130 or more in the
summer, it does.
regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
>> for cyanoacrylate glues:
>> Polymerized by contact with water, alcohols,
>> amines, alkalies.
When I build RC model airplanes we use to use super glue and we
would accelerate it with baking soda. Put some baking soda
in a rubber bulb and spray it on the joint. It would cure imediately
(with smoke) and the baking soda would make a fillet too.
Rod Speed wrote:
> The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT <skiddz "AT"
> adelphia "DOT" net> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:16:18 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
>>>applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
>>>
>>>Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
>>>whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet
>>>for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
>>>equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your
>>>superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates
>>>the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on
>>>the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe,
>>>there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb.
>>>econopak direct from colombia.
>>>
>>>So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take
>>>it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the
>>>working temperature.
>
>
>>Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden
>>than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
>
>
> That's completely mangling the physics.
>
> What matters is that the humidity level is 100%.
It's going to be the dew point for the air localized around the cool
object, I think. You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient
temperature, meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the
dew point, but because the air temp drops around the object you cross
the dew point and condensation occurs.
But it's been sloshing around in the back of my head for a while now, so
I may have that wrong.
er
--
email not valid
On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:16:18 -0800, Enoch Root <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
>applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
>
>Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
>whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for
>water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
>equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue,
>water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation
>process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if
>you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in
>it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
>
>So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it
>out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working
>temperature.
Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm
air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out.
On 27 Jan 2006 09:53:08 -0800, "Too_Many_Tools"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>How do you store your various glues?
>
>With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
>- Super glue
>With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
>again the tube has hardened.
>I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
>dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
>- Contact glue
>With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
>use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
>secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
>- Elmer's woodworking glue
>With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
>the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
>the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
>tightened.
>
>Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
>Thanks
>
>TMT
Most of these glues will keep up to 2 years if kept tightly closed and
at room temperatures. Elmer's glue will thicken if it freezes.
Personally, I try not to buy much more glue than I can use within 12
months. Some glues have a shorter shelf life.
Tove Momerathsson wrote:
> The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
>
>>My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
>>They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless
>>of the measures I take to seal 'em up.
>
>
> Lee Valley Tools sells some caps for tubes that look like tiny red
> condoms. They're cheap -- a few bucks for 20-25, IIRC. Squeeze a tiny
> ball of caulk or whatever out of the tip (supposedly to be sure the air
> is out of the tip) then put one of these jobbies on the tip and unroll
> it (they're about 1.5" long). When you need the caulk again, just roll
> up the cap and it's ready to go. Afterwards, the cap can be reused.
>
> I've had open tubes of silicone caulk, latex caulk and Liquid Nails that
> have been fine when opened after being stored for a year in the basement.
>
> Tove
the blue tape trick is cheaper...
dave
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>
> - Contact glue
> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>
> - Elmer's woodworking glue
> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
> tightened.
>
> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>
> Thanks
>
> TMT
>
Elmer's has a shelf life and you can't stop the slow but steady degradation.
Near the end when it is too thick, a little water will thin it back out, but
it has lost strength at that point. The only remedy is to buy small
containers to avoid a big, half-empty, bottle on the shelf.
Buy contact cement in the aerosol can and it will last a very long time.
Several years at least. 3M makes some very good ones.
Now you know why super glue comes in such small containers.
Randy
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> How do you store your various glues?
>
> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>
> - Super glue
> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
> again the tube has hardened.
> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
> dessicant in the refrigerator.
I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever.
Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that,
whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for
water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches
equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue,
water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation
process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if
you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in
it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia.
So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it
out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working
temperature.
er
--
email not valid
Are you storing your CA anywhere your bottle of accelerator?. Do you ever
add CA to a joint after spraying accelerator near it? The accelerator vapors
that get into open CA will severely shorten its life.
-- Mike Norton
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>> How do you store your various glues?
>>
>> With three different glues, I seldom have success.
>>
>> - Super glue
>> With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
>> again the tube has hardened.
>> I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
>> dessicant in the refrigerator.
>>
>> - Contact glue
>> With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
>> use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
>> secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.
>>
>> - Elmer's woodworking glue
>> With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
>> the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
>> the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
>> tightened.
>>
>> Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> TMT
>
>
>
>
> buy smaller quantities and use it faster.
>