On Sat, 26 May 2007 17:53:57 -0700, charlieb <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Still not sure why you'd NEED a dovetail jig with a capacity of
>24". Boards much over a foot are getting harder and harder
>to find - and pay for.
I use mine for dual setups.
On May 23, 10:12 pm, "NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote:
> From Popular Woodworking . . .
>
> http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Leigh+Dovetail+Jigs+N...
> --
> NuWave Dave in Houston
Seems good but it looks like after buying the jig and the bit set it
would be $288 plus tax & shipping for the 12".
http://www.leighjigs.com/superjigs.php
Compare this to the $149 it cost me to have PC 4212 delivered to my
house including the bits I don't think they are going to gain much in
market share.
"NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> From Popular Woodworking . . .
http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Leigh+Dovetail+Jigs+New+Design+Affordably+Priced.aspx
I'll be waiting for someone to compare the practicality of their new 18" and
the 24" D4R.
From what I can tell, Leigh's new dovetail jigs are similar in design to
their present D1600. The main design difference between the D4R and these
other jigs is that the D4R's pin/tail guides are a split type and all of
these others including the D1600 use a non-split type of guide. With this
design you can change the position of the pins in your joint, but not the
width of each pin. It looks like they're just providing the D1600 design in
several new widths.
--
Charley
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > From Popular Woodworking . . .
>
http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Leigh+Dovetail+Jigs+New+Design+Affordably+Priced.aspx
>
> I'll be waiting for someone to compare the practicality of their new 18"
and
> the 24" D4R.
>
>
Don't know when Leigh did it, but adding the front support fixes
one of the problems with the earlier Leigh DT Jig - no "front"
support for the router. Doesn't take much of a tilt when routing
pins or tails to reduce the potential accuracy of the jig.
Still not sure why you'd NEED a dovetail jig with a capacity of
24". Boards much over a foot are getting harder and harder
to find - and pay for. Since you're going to have to glue up
for any width beyond 12" why not cut the dovetails BEFORE
the glue up?
But it's nice that Leigh is making smaller, less expensive versions
of their flagship product.
charlie b
CW wrote:
>
> "charlieb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Since you're going to have to glue up
> > for any width beyond 12" why not cut the dovetails BEFORE
> > the glue up?
>
> Why don't you try that and get back to us. We'll wait.
Do I take it you mean - "That's not possible." - or "You can
get close but will have to do some tweeking to get things
to fit." - or - "I want to see if someone else knows how to
do it - and will explain how so I can follow their instructions."?
I like solving woodworking puzzles and I've got the AKEDA
dovetail jig which will do up to 16th inch widths - which is
fine for drawers and bookshelf units or upper kitchen cabinets
where you might want to show off the joinery - on the ends
of pieces that show. For lower kitchen cabinets the carcase
is seldom solid wood so cutting dovetails in ply seems a
waste of time and effort. I guess if you were doing a blanket
chest having a 24" capacity would be nice. For places that
you almost have to use dovetails - like on the apron of a
woodworking bench for example
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DasBench/CBbench23.html
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/DasBench/CBbench28.html
- none of the jigs will handle 2" or 3" thick stock since their
depth of cut is limited by the dovetail router bit.
Other than a tall or wide "Six Board" box, I can't think of
a need to do dovetails in parts wider than 16" - can you?
Don't get me wrong. I've got a few machines that I needed
for one or two projects and should probably sold because
their just taking up shop space - a General Intl 75-0750M
chisel and bit mortiser - the one with the tilting head and
the XY table. Needed it when building my workbench. But
I don't see any projects on my To Do List that needs that
capacity. I've gotten into Loose/Floating Tenon M&T joints
and the Festool DOMINO will do all the furniture sized M&T
stuff I need. As for dovetails, what the AKEDA won't handle,
the JoinTech Cabinet Maker System on my router table
will. If you need the Leigh 24" jig - well more power to you.
charlie b
"charlieb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Still not sure why you'd NEED a dovetail jig with a capacity of
> 24". Boards much over a foot are getting harder and harder
> to find - and pay for.
What about edge gluing a bunch of boards together and then dovetailing glued
panels together? Of course, with the cost of any solid wood these days, even
edge gluing enough pieces to form a wide solid wood panel is getting
excessively expensive too.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "NuWaveDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> From Popular Woodworking . . .
> http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Leigh+Dovetail+Jigs+New+Design+Affordably+Priced.aspx
>
> I'll be waiting for someone to compare the practicality of their new 18"
> and
> the 24" D4R.
>
>
;~) Sitting happy with the fact that I paid less than $300 for my New 24"
Leigh Jig a few years back.
"charlieb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Since you're going to have to glue up
> for any width beyond 12" why not cut the dovetails BEFORE
> the glue up?
Why don't you try that and get back to us. We'll wait.