On Aug 13, 1:05=A0pm, E Z Peaces <[email protected]> wrote:
> whit3rd wrote:
> > 1694: spoke wrench, but for something bigger than a bicycle.
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Wheelbuilding for a Model T, perhaps?
>
> I haven't heard of a Model T with adjustable wire spokes. =A0If it's a
> wrench, it's not deep enough for square nuts but could work for hex nuts.
If the wheel were without a tire, this could be a screwdriver to
engage slots on the sides of the nipple head while held on-axis to the
spoke. It's not deep enough for a transverse wrench for
flats on the nipple shaft (even if there were flats there).
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
1697 Is it the door to a gun safe?
Larry C
On Aug 14, 11:46=A0am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> >1693. Cork drill for chemistry labs.
> >Here's a fancy one:http://www.cesci.net/details.php?id=3D631
> >Karl
>
> Good answer, this is correct. =A0I'm still not sure about number 1694, bu=
t the
> rest of them have been answered correctly this week, the answers along wi=
th
> a video and a couple of new photos can be seen at this address:
>
> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>
> Rob
Cool hay baler video.
Thanks
Karl
On Aug 13, 4:18=A0pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> E Z Peaces wrote:
> > whit3rd wrote:
>
> >> 1694: spoke wrench, but for something bigger than a bicycle.
> >> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Wheelbuilding for a Model T, perhaps?
>
> > I haven't heard of a Model T with adjustable wire spokes. =A0If it's a
> > wrench, it's not deep enough for square nuts but could work for hex nut=
s.
>
> > The wood handle suggests that it's for something repetitive, like
> > spokes. =A0If it's a wrench, the cutaway corners suggest that the axis =
of
> > the nut would be parallel to a surface close to the far flat of the nut=
.
> > =A0That doesn't sound like a spoke.
>
> > I wonder if the ferrule suggests how recently it was made.
>
> And the wood handle and small size of opening depth indicates it wasn't
> anything very substantial it was working on....but don't recognize it
> meself surely.
>
> --
The handle is a commercially-made file handle, still available today.
So, it's likely that the tool was not manufactured, but made by a
craftsman for his own use. Given that, it could be for almost
anything.
John Martin
1693: hand drill press, for some kind of metal strap. Maybe to
prepare barrel hoops for riveting? A strap in the aperture
would be centered for the drill.
1694: spoke wrench, but for something bigger than a bicycle.
Wheelbuilding for a Model T, perhaps?
1697: looks like the inside of a door to a gun safe (long rifle rack).
On Aug 12, 10:29=A0pm, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
> Rob
1693. Cork drill for chemistry labs.
Here's a fancy one: http://www.cesci.net/details.php?id=3D631
Karl
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
I'm heading for the American Threshermans show in Pinckneyville IL, in about
15 minutes. They have a bailer similar to 1696 in operation. Maybe I can
get some pictures and find a place to post them.
http://www.americanthresherman.com/
RogerN
On Aug 13, 4:29=A0am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
> Rob
Without looking at anyone elses answers, I'll go with
1696 - Very early baler, hand fed with loose hay, straw, etc.
1698 - Looks to me like a boat hoist, uses web straps to pick up from
trailer, then can be rolled out on a double rail slip and lower into
water, or reverse procedure.
Norm
E Z Peaces wrote:
> Rob H. wrote:
>>
>>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>> Rob
>>
>>> Cool hay baler video.
>>> Thanks
>>> Karl
>>
>>
>> I just changed my answer for this machine from hay baler to hay press,
>> it's not a true baler unless the machine produces a finished bale, the
>> machine in my photos only presses the hay, with the workers adding the
>> wires to the bales, as described in the article:
>>
>>
http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/Farm-Shows/HAY-BALER-NO-A-HAY-PRESS.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>
> He says the whole problem is that two-cylinder John Deeres can't be used
> for belt work, but his father ran belts from these tractors for 10,000
> hours. My uncle had two two-cylinder John Deere's so he could pull with
> one while the other drove a belt.
>
Both my dad and grandfather (if he were still alive) would be quite amused
by that statement. Dad used the John Deere A to grind feed using a
belt-driven grinder even when I was a small tyke before he got the grinder
mixer. Dad's John Deere A and John Deere M each have a belt pulley on
them. On the A, it is the wheel driven by the hand clutch, on the M, it is
above the drawbar.
... snip
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
In article <[email protected]>, "Rob H." <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
My guesses:
1693 - Drill press to make a cross hole in a piece of shafting or thick
tubing; possibly used to prepare a (cast iron?) pipe for receiving a tap
of some sort.
1694 - A wild guess: this is used to remove the clips that hold manual
car window winder knobs on their shafts. These are, at least in my
limited experience, usually a spring clip sort of arrangement, stuck
behind/within the hub piece of the handle, and rather difficult to
remove with everyday tools. If this is indeed the use of this tool, I'd
expect the handle to be craned off to one side.
1695 - At first glance, this appears to be a cleat or hook of some sort,
perhaps for hanging something (like a bicycle wheel or ladder). The
dowel may have been a further supporting member.
1696 - Possibly a flax breaking machine, used as one step in the
production of linen from raw flax.
1697 - Rack for some long skinny things, along the lines of pool cue
sticks.
1698 - A pair of gantry cranes, presumably used to load and/or unload
truck trailers. That seemed very obvious, so I feel I must be missing
something important here....
Now to read other answers.
--
Andrew Erickson
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot
In article <[email protected]>, "Steve W." <[email protected]>
wrote:
> E Z Peaces wrote:
> > Andrew Erickson wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> 1694 - A wild guess: this is used to remove the clips that hold
> >> manual car window winder knobs on their shafts. These are, at least
> >> in my limited experience, usually a spring clip sort of arrangement,
> >> stuck behind/within the hub piece of the handle, and rather difficult
> >> to remove with everyday tools. If this is indeed the use of this
> >> tool, I'd expect the handle to be craned off to one side.
> >>
> > I like it! Some kinds of circlips, such as some made of wire, come less
> > than 270 degrees around a shaft, and the ends are open to accept a tool
> > like this.
> >
> > This tool could make such a clip easy to remove. Now to find a tool to
> > make them easy to put back on!
>
> How many do you want?
> The clip tool I have includes one side that pops the clip halfway out,
> then pull the door handle or window crank off. The clip then gets
> snapped back into the slot so you can reinstall the handle. The handles
> themselves just get pushed on over a tapered shaft.
>
> This tool wouldn't work for the standard window/door clips though. The
> handle would be in the way. The clips in question are usually flush with
> the back edge of the handle assembly and the tool has an offset handle
> because of that.
From the angle in the picture, I can't be sure whether the blade part is
lined up axially with the handle, or is offset some and laying more or
less flat on the background. Neither the shadows around the blade nor
the angle of the camera lens is steep enough for me to tell for sure,
and drawing various lines through the picture is likewise inconclusive
(except to suggest that the blade and handle might not be perfectly
concentric, not too surprising for a wooden handle mounted (presumably)
with a tang and a ferrule).
--
Andrew Erickson
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot
Rob H. wrote:
> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
1695: Is it 3" or 24" long?
1696: Hay press. Animals fed wrinkled hay develop poor table manners!
1698: Is gantry the right word? I'd say it's to pick up a container so
a truck can move under it or out from under it.
Rob H. wrote:
> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
1693 -
1694 -
1695 - "helping hand" Used for many things in stores and shops. Mainly
used to reach items on upper hooks, shelves on the store walls. I use
mine for V belts.
1696 - Stationary hay/straw press. Precursor to the modern balers in use
today. You feed it using two people and hay forks to load through the
top opening while the ram is up. It gets pressed and then tied/wired
into shape by a person on the output side.
1697 - I use the ones in my safe to store my good fishing equipment!
1698 - Gantry crane. Can be used for many things. Some with different
wheels are used in boat yards to launch boats, others used indoors for
just about anything.
--
Steve W.
whit3rd wrote:
> 1694: spoke wrench, but for something bigger than a bicycle.
> Wheelbuilding for a Model T, perhaps?
>
I haven't heard of a Model T with adjustable wire spokes. If it's a
wrench, it's not deep enough for square nuts but could work for hex nuts.
The wood handle suggests that it's for something repetitive, like
spokes. If it's a wrench, the cutaway corners suggest that the axis of
the nut would be parallel to a surface close to the far flat of the nut.
That doesn't sound like a spoke.
I wonder if the ferrule suggests how recently it was made.
E Z Peaces wrote:
> whit3rd wrote:
>
>> 1694: spoke wrench, but for something bigger than a bicycle.
>> Wheelbuilding for a Model T, perhaps?
>>
> I haven't heard of a Model T with adjustable wire spokes. If it's a
> wrench, it's not deep enough for square nuts but could work for hex nuts.
>
> The wood handle suggests that it's for something repetitive, like
> spokes. If it's a wrench, the cutaway corners suggest that the axis of
> the nut would be parallel to a surface close to the far flat of the nut.
> That doesn't sound like a spoke.
>
> I wonder if the ferrule suggests how recently it was made.
And the wood handle and small size of opening depth indicates it wasn't
anything very substantial it was working on....but don't recognize it
meself surely.
--
Larry C wrote:
>
> "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>>
>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>> Rob
>
> 1697 Is it the door to a gun safe?
>
> Larry C
http://www.centralohiomartialarts.com/photos/v/awards/master_laura_safe.jpg.html
I wonder if the top bracket is to pinch the scabbards of nine swords and
the paper is to tell the custodian who owns each.
It could be for martial-arts weapons, but I wonder how sidearms and
swords for officers are stored on Navy ships. Regulations might call
for them to be handy in case of mutiny but locked up to be unavailable
to a drunken officer or berserk sailor.
DoN. Nichols wrote:
> On 2009-08-13, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>>
>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
> Following up in rec.crafts.metalworking as always.
>
> 1693) For drilling a hole centered in the width of rather tough
> material, and without the aid of a power drill.
>
> I would expect a high pressure lubricant on those threads, given
> that use.
At the bottom of the frame, I see what appears to be a hole for the rod
or dowel or stopper to be drilled. Isn't it on one side? That makes me
think it was made to drill off center. Is it for drilling two or more
holes in the end of something?
>
> 1694) A split ring spanner -- it engages two slots in a threaded
> ring 180 degrees apart to allow rotating it. Examples would
> include the backs of better quality "waterproof" watches, but
> those would need a wider spacing for the two points.
>
> Perhaps this is for collars mounting potentiometers (volume
> controls) or phone jacks (connectors) in tight spaces.
The blade appears to be an inch wide. That would limit access to tight
spaces. Wouldn't you have used thicker metal so it could be narrower?
Andrew Erickson wrote:
>
> 1694 - A wild guess: this is used to remove the clips that hold manual
> car window winder knobs on their shafts. These are, at least in my
> limited experience, usually a spring clip sort of arrangement, stuck
> behind/within the hub piece of the handle, and rather difficult to
> remove with everyday tools. If this is indeed the use of this tool, I'd
> expect the handle to be craned off to one side.
>
I like it! Some kinds of circlips, such as some made of wire, come less
than 270 degrees around a shaft, and the ends are open to accept a tool
like this.
This tool could make such a clip easy to remove. Now to find a tool to
make them easy to put back on!
Rob H. wrote:
> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
1693: Brainstorm!
Tenons, wooden spokes, broomsticks, ax handles, and hammer handles can
all work loose. With the last two, you drive in wedges, but then you
must destroy the handle to remove it.
I think this tool was made to make a hole to wedge a spoke, tenon, or
broomstick with a screw. It appears that it would make a 5/16" hole in
a 3/4" dowel.
A screw should be near the circumference rather than the center to give
the most wedging with the least weakening, and this tool was made to
drill off center. A broomstick, tenon, or spoke is most likely to snap
at the edge of the mortice, so you wouldn't want to drill that deep.
Put your spoke, tenon, or broomstick, with the end 3/4" in diameter, in
a vise. Screw the bit down so it is just poking into the hole at the
bottom of the frame. Slip the hole over the end of the dowel and twist
the handle back and forth to start the hole.
Now back up the bit until the tip is just visible at the top of the
frame. Slide the hole in the frame down over the dowel until the hole
you started is over the bit. (If the 3/4" section isn't that long, you
won't be able to withdraw the bit that far.) Continue drilling by
twisting the handle back and forth. The hole in the bottom of the frame
will hold the wood piece straight. The threads will allow you to drill
to a chosen depth.
Then put your tenon in the mortice and wedge it with a screw, which may
be a sort of tapered machine screw. (Is there such a thing?)
E Z Peaces wrote:
> Rob H. wrote:
>> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>>
>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>> Rob
> 1693: Brainstorm!
>
> Tenons, wooden spokes, broomsticks, ax handles, and hammer handles can
> all work loose. With the last two, you drive in wedges, but then you
> must destroy the handle to remove it.
>
> I think this tool was made to make a hole to wedge a spoke, tenon, or
> broomstick with a screw. It appears that it would make a 5/16" hole in
> a 3/4" dowel.
>
Uh-oh, bad math. It looks like a 1/8" hole in a 3/8" dowel. I think it
could be used for handles smaller than broomsticks, spokes of light-duty
wheels, or dowels for furniture that could be disassembled. Would
dowels wedged with screws make nicer furniture than screws without dowels?
E Z Peaces wrote:
> Andrew Erickson wrote:
>
>>
>> 1694 - A wild guess: this is used to remove the clips that hold
>> manual car window winder knobs on their shafts. These are, at least
>> in my limited experience, usually a spring clip sort of arrangement,
>> stuck behind/within the hub piece of the handle, and rather difficult
>> to remove with everyday tools. If this is indeed the use of this
>> tool, I'd expect the handle to be craned off to one side.
>>
> I like it! Some kinds of circlips, such as some made of wire, come less
> than 270 degrees around a shaft, and the ends are open to accept a tool
> like this.
>
> This tool could make such a clip easy to remove. Now to find a tool to
> make them easy to put back on!
How many do you want?
The clip tool I have includes one side that pops the clip halfway out,
then pull the door handle or window crank off. The clip then gets
snapped back into the slot so you can reinstall the handle. The handles
themselves just get pushed on over a tapered shaft.
This tool wouldn't work for the standard window/door clips though. The
handle would be in the way. The clips in question are usually flush with
the back edge of the handle assembly and the tool has an offset handle
because of that.
--
Steve W.
Steve W. wrote:
> E Z Peaces wrote:
>> Andrew Erickson wrote:
>>
>>> 1694 - A wild guess: this is used to remove the clips that hold
>>> manual car window winder knobs on their shafts. These are, at least
>>> in my limited experience, usually a spring clip sort of arrangement,
>>> stuck behind/within the hub piece of the handle, and rather difficult
>>> to remove with everyday tools. If this is indeed the use of this
>>> tool, I'd expect the handle to be craned off to one side.
>>>
>> I like it! Some kinds of circlips, such as some made of wire, come less
>> than 270 degrees around a shaft, and the ends are open to accept a tool
>> like this.
>>
>> This tool could make such a clip easy to remove. Now to find a tool to
>> make them easy to put back on!
>
> How many do you want?
> The clip tool I have includes one side that pops the clip halfway out,
> then pull the door handle or window crank off. The clip then gets
> snapped back into the slot so you can reinstall the handle. The handles
> themselves just get pushed on over a tapered shaft.
>
> This tool wouldn't work for the standard window/door clips though. The
> handle would be in the way. The clips in question are usually flush with
> the back edge of the handle assembly and the tool has an offset handle
> because of that.
>
>
http://www.arconring.com/circlips.htm
D-1500 looks right. It has no holes for pliers. It's made to be pushed
apart. I seem to recall wire clips that were also made to be pushed apart.
E Z Peaces wrote:
> http://www.arconring.com/circlips.htm
>
> D-1500 looks right. It has no holes for pliers. It's made to be pushed
> apart. I seem to recall wire clips that were also made to be pushed apart.
Patent 3,112,560 describes a push-off tool with springy tines. If the
"ears" of the clip were farther apart than the inner diameter of the
groove, a rigid tool like the one in question would work.
E Z Peaces wrote:
> Steve W. wrote:
>> E Z Peaces wrote:
>>> Andrew Erickson wrote:
>>>
>>>> 1694 - A wild guess: this is used to remove the clips that hold
>>>> manual car window winder knobs on their shafts. These are, at least
>>>> in my limited experience, usually a spring clip sort of arrangement,
>>>> stuck behind/within the hub piece of the handle, and rather difficult
>>>> to remove with everyday tools. If this is indeed the use of this
>>>> tool, I'd expect the handle to be craned off to one side.
>>>>
>>> I like it! Some kinds of circlips, such as some made of wire, come less
>>> than 270 degrees around a shaft, and the ends are open to accept a tool
>>> like this.
>>>
>>> This tool could make such a clip easy to remove. Now to find a tool to
>>> make them easy to put back on!
>>
>> How many do you want?
>> The clip tool I have includes one side that pops the clip halfway out,
>> then pull the door handle or window crank off. The clip then gets
>> snapped back into the slot so you can reinstall the handle. The handles
>> themselves just get pushed on over a tapered shaft.
>>
>> This tool wouldn't work for the standard window/door clips though. The
>> handle would be in the way. The clips in question are usually flush with
>> the back edge of the handle assembly and the tool has an offset handle
>> because of that.
>>
>>
> http://www.arconring.com/circlips.htm
>
> D-1500 looks right. It has no holes for pliers. It's made to be pushed
> apart. I seem to recall wire clips that were also made to be pushed apart.
The E clip isn't the same as whet is used on door handles and such.
http://www.drewprops.com/graphics/article_photos/2006/civic-repair_001.jpg
http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/4722167/JesusClip_Full.jpg
Is the standard clip used on those items.
Bottom tool in this set is the common tool used for them.
http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/dt6000ma.jpg
Top and middle tools are used for the door trim clips
--
Steve W.
Steve W. wrote:
> E Z Peaces wrote:
>> Steve W. wrote:
>>> E Z Peaces wrote:
>>>> Andrew Erickson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> 1694 - A wild guess: this is used to remove the clips that hold
>>>>> manual car window winder knobs on their shafts. These are, at least
>>>>> in my limited experience, usually a spring clip sort of arrangement,
>>>>> stuck behind/within the hub piece of the handle, and rather difficult
>>>>> to remove with everyday tools. If this is indeed the use of this
>>>>> tool, I'd expect the handle to be craned off to one side.
>>>>>
>>>> I like it! Some kinds of circlips, such as some made of wire, come less
>>>> than 270 degrees around a shaft, and the ends are open to accept a tool
>>>> like this.
>>>>
>>>> This tool could make such a clip easy to remove. Now to find a tool to
>>>> make them easy to put back on!
>>> How many do you want?
>>> The clip tool I have includes one side that pops the clip halfway out,
>>> then pull the door handle or window crank off. The clip then gets
>>> snapped back into the slot so you can reinstall the handle. The handles
>>> themselves just get pushed on over a tapered shaft.
>>>
>>> This tool wouldn't work for the standard window/door clips though. The
>>> handle would be in the way. The clips in question are usually flush with
>>> the back edge of the handle assembly and the tool has an offset handle
>>> because of that.
>>>
>>>
>> http://www.arconring.com/circlips.htm
>>
>> D-1500 looks right. It has no holes for pliers. It's made to be pushed
>> apart. I seem to recall wire clips that were also made to be pushed apart.
>
> The E clip isn't the same as whet is used on door handles and such.
>
> http://www.drewprops.com/graphics/article_photos/2006/civic-repair_001.jpg
> http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/4722167/JesusClip_Full.jpg
>
> Is the standard clip used on those items.
>
> Bottom tool in this set is the common tool used for them.
>
> http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/dt6000ma.jpg
>
> Top and middle tools are used for the door trim clips
>
I'm thinking of some unknown use other than door trim. For example, a
tool with flexible tines was invented for universal joints under
vehicles, where a snap ring shouldn't have ears. If the ears could
stick out a little, the tool could be rigid. I've seen e clips and wire
clips like that.
>1693. Cork drill for chemistry labs.
>Here's a fancy one: http://www.cesci.net/details.php?id=631
>Karl
Good answer, this is correct. I'm still not sure about number 1694, but the
rest of them have been answered correctly this week, the answers along with
a video and a couple of new photos can be seen at this address:
http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
>> 1693. Cork drill for chemistry labs.
>> Here's a fancy one: http://www.cesci.net/details.php?id=631
>> Karl
>
>
> Good answer, this is correct. I'm still not sure about number 1694, but
> the rest of them have been answered correctly this week, the answers
> along with a video and a couple of new photos can be seen at this address:
>
> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
The hand drill clamps to a table, leaving one hand to hold the stopper
on the platform and the other hand to spin the wheel. 1693 would
evidently have to be held by the frame with one hand while the other
hand turned the handle. A stopper would have to be jammed securely into
the 3/8" hole. Are stoppers that small often drilled? How well does it
work to drill a stopper while it's jammed into a hole?
The bit appears to be about 1/8". Doesn't a hole drilled in rubber come
out smaller than the bit used? Is this to drill for tubing less than
1/8" OD?
The bit is aligned close to the edge of the hole in the frame. Why
would one drill a tiny hole near the edge of a 3/8" stopper?
"E Z Peaces" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rob H. wrote:
>>> 1693. Cork drill for chemistry labs.
>>> Here's a fancy one: http://www.cesci.net/details.php?id=631
>>> Karl
>>
>>
>> Good answer, this is correct. I'm still not sure about number 1694, but
>> the rest of them have been answered correctly this week, the answers
>> along with a video and a couple of new photos can be seen at this
>> address:
>>
>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>> Rob
>
> The hand drill clamps to a table, leaving one hand to hold the stopper on
> the platform and the other hand to spin the wheel. 1693 would evidently
> have to be held by the frame with one hand while the other hand turned the
> handle. A stopper would have to be jammed securely into the 3/8" hole.
I'm not following this, what exactly is the 3/8" hole you are referring to?
I agree that the bit appears to be around 1/8".
>Are stoppers that small often drilled? How well does it work to drill a
>stopper while it's jammed into a hole?
>
> The bit appears to be about 1/8". Doesn't a hole drilled in rubber come
> out smaller than the bit used? Is this to drill for tubing less than 1/8"
> OD?
>
> The bit is aligned close to the edge of the hole in the frame. Why would
> one drill a tiny hole near the edge of a 3/8" stopper?
Rob H. wrote:
>
> "E Z Peaces" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Rob H. wrote:
>>>> 1693. Cork drill for chemistry labs.
>>>> Here's a fancy one: http://www.cesci.net/details.php?id=631
>>>> Karl
>>>
>>>
>>> Good answer, this is correct. I'm still not sure about number 1694,
>>> but the rest of them have been answered correctly this week, the
>>> answers along with a video and a couple of new photos can be seen at
>>> this address:
>>>
>>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>>
>>> Rob
>>
>> The hand drill clamps to a table, leaving one hand to hold the stopper
>> on the platform and the other hand to spin the wheel. 1693 would
>> evidently have to be held by the frame with one hand while the other
>> hand turned the handle. A stopper would have to be jammed securely
>> into the 3/8" hole.
>
>
> I'm not following this, what exactly is the 3/8" hole you are referring to?
>
> I agree that the bit appears to be around 1/8".
>
There's a dark spot on the left 2/3 of the floor of the frame. It looks
oval. I interpret that as a round hole in the floor.
If there is no hole, you could hold a stopper in the trapezoidal
opening, up to 1" tall, 1-1/4" wide at the top, and 5/8" wide at the
bottom. It looks awkward to hold the frame and stopper with one hand
while turning with the other.
What happens when the bit hits the floor of the opening? To make a
clean hole through a stopper, I would expect a hole in the floor perhaps
.01" larger than the bit. I see no sign of a little hole, only what
appears to be a 3/8" hole that's off center.
>
>
>
>
>
>> Are stoppers that small often drilled? How well does it work to drill
>> a stopper while it's jammed into a hole?
>>
>> The bit appears to be about 1/8". Doesn't a hole drilled in rubber
>> come out smaller than the bit used? Is this to drill for tubing less
>> than 1/8" OD?
>>
>> The bit is aligned close to the edge of the hole in the frame. Why
>> would one drill a tiny hole near the edge of a 3/8" stopper?
>
I've thought of an example where it could be useful to drill an
off-center hole in a wooden leg whose end was 3/8" in diameter. Before
fiberglass and tubular legs were available, could a surveyor's tripod
have a cast metal head with lightweight wooden legs?
He'd want a wiggle-free fit. He could use legs that were threaded like
broomsticks, but if a leg snapped off in the field, it might be hard to
unscrew the stub. Besides, it would be easier to make unthreaded spare
legs.
If he used an off-center screw to wedge a leg in a hole in a metal
tripod head, he could quickly replace a broken leg with a screwdriver.
DoN. Nichols wrote:
> On 2009-08-15, E Z Peaces <[email protected]> wrote:
>> If he used an off-center screw to wedge a leg in a hole in a metal
>> tripod head, he could quickly replace a broken leg with a screwdriver.
>
> The wooden legs on tripods tended to be pairs of square wood
> stock forming a narrow truncated-bottom 'V', which has a second pair of
> legs centering in the first and pivoting on a through bolt with a
> sliding rectangular collar to lock the two leg sections in a straight
> line. The spacing of the sides adds to the rigidity much more than you
> could get with a round piece screwed into the head. And, they were
> lighter than a round piece of similar strength.
>
> I've used an old Zeiss telescope with turret eyepieces at 12,
> 24, and 42 power (IIRC), and I forget the focal length of the objective
> lens part mounted on such a tripod -- it made a very impressive device.
> I have also seen pairs of these sold as binoculars -- probably
> originally made as military devices for WW-II.
>
> Enjoy,
> DoN.
>
Uh-oh, I'll have to think of another example. When electric clothes
dryers were rare, my mother had a folding rack of four rectangular legs
and several wooden rods. It was light and foldable and held a lot of
clothes, but it was distressingly rickety.
Before plastics got so big, I imagine rods and dowels were a popular
approach for manufacturers and handymen, but how do you fix loose
joints? A screw in the end of the rod could tighten a joint and leave
the device easy to disassemble for repair or packing. However, a screw
that split the rod at the center could seriously weaken it.
I think the best place to drill for a screw would be right at the edge.
Instead of splitting the rod, the screw would wedge it against the
side of the hole, and the threads could bite both pieces of wood.
Drilling at the edge would be difficult without a jig. I think this is
such a jig. I wish I knew what the inventor might have called it.
>>>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
A stopper would have to be jammed securely
>>> into the 3/8" hole.
>>
>>
>> I'm not following this, what exactly is the 3/8" hole you are referring
>> to?
>>
>> I agree that the bit appears to be around 1/8".
>>
>
> There's a dark spot on the left 2/3 of the floor of the frame. It looks
> oval. I interpret that as a round hole in the floor.
I agree there is a hole in the floor slightly larger than the bit, looks
like it's pretty much in the middle of the floor to me, might be off by a
very small fraction.
> If there is no hole, you could hold a stopper in the trapezoidal opening,
> up to 1" tall, 1-1/4" wide at the top, and 5/8" wide at the bottom. It
> looks awkward to hold the frame and stopper with one hand while turning
> with the other.
That's exactly how it was used, put a larger stopper into it, hold the frame
and stopper with one hand, turn the handle with the other, not sure why that
would be awkward.
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
>
>>>>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>
> A stopper would have to be jammed securely
>>>> into the 3/8" hole.
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm not following this, what exactly is the 3/8" hole you are
>>> referring to?
>>>
>>> I agree that the bit appears to be around 1/8".
>>>
>>
>> There's a dark spot on the left 2/3 of the floor of the frame. It
>> looks oval. I interpret that as a round hole in the floor.
>
>
>
> I agree there is a hole in the floor slightly larger than the bit, looks
> like it's pretty much in the middle of the floor to me, might be off by
> a very small fraction.
>
>
Now _I_ see it! The left edge of the little hole. I looked repeatedly
for traces of a little hole, but all I could see was what looked like a
big weird hole.
"RogerN" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>>
>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>> Rob
>
> I'm heading for the American Threshermans show in Pinckneyville IL, in
> about 15 minutes. They have a bailer similar to 1696 in operation. Maybe
> I can get some pictures and find a place to post them.
>
> http://www.americanthresherman.com/
>
>
> RogerN
If you post the photos I'll be happy to take a look at them.
Rob
>> I agree there is a hole in the floor slightly larger than the bit, looks
>> like it's pretty much in the middle of the floor to me, might be off by a
>> very small fraction.
>>
>>
>
> Now _I_ see it! The left edge of the little hole. I looked repeatedly
> for traces of a little hole, but all I could see was what looked like a
> big weird hole.
Ok, I can now see what you thought was the large hole, I was wondering why
your description didn't equal what I was seeing. If you happen to be
browsing with Firefox and if you don't already have it, I recommend an
add-on that I use for zooming into photos:
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/139
I'm sure some of the other browsers have something similar.
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
>
>>> I agree there is a hole in the floor slightly larger than the bit, looks
>>> like it's pretty much in the middle of the floor to me, might be off
>>> by a very small fraction.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Now _I_ see it! The left edge of the little hole. I looked
>> repeatedly for traces of a little hole, but all I could see was what
>> looked like a big weird hole.
>
>
> Ok, I can now see what you thought was the large hole, I was wondering
> why your description didn't equal what I was seeing. If you happen to
> be browsing with Firefox and if you don't already have it, I recommend
> an add-on that I use for zooming into photos:
>
> https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/139
>
> I'm sure some of the other browsers have something similar.
>
>
> Rob
Thanks. Scrolling to zoom is built into OS X. Before, zoomed or not, I
saw a big hole. Now, zoomed or not, I see the little hole. I guess the
way the eye interprets the clues one time affects what one sees the next
time.
I'll have to patent my off-center rod-drilling jig! With this
technology, wooden rods will put plastics companies out of business.
Imagine the royalties! When it comes to philanthropy, I'll make Bill
Gates look like Ebenezer Scrooge.
> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>
> Rob
>Cool hay baler video.
>Thanks
>Karl
I just changed my answer for this machine from hay baler to hay press, it's
not a true baler unless the machine produces a finished bale, the machine in
my photos only presses the hay, with the workers adding the wires to the
bales, as described in the article:
http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/Farm-Shows/HAY-BALER-NO-A-HAY-PRESS.aspx
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
...
> I just changed my answer for this machine from hay baler to hay press,
> it's not a true baler unless the machine produces a finished bale, the
> machine in my photos only presses the hay, with the workers adding the
> wires to the bales, as described in the article:
>
...
Strictly speaking, true...there are enough old-timers that still term
them "balers" that I'd think you'll not get much of a rise out of
anybody but the truly most avid (others might use a different term :) )...
Daughter's GFIL has one of the oldest I've seen in OR; it was part of
their working ranch ages and ages ago and arrived there around the Cape
on a 3-master...
--
Rob H. wrote:
>
>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>>
>> Rob
>
>> Cool hay baler video.
>> Thanks
>> Karl
>
>
> I just changed my answer for this machine from hay baler to hay press,
> it's not a true baler unless the machine produces a finished bale, the
> machine in my photos only presses the hay, with the workers adding the
> wires to the bales, as described in the article:
>
> http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/Farm-Shows/HAY-BALER-NO-A-HAY-PRESS.aspx
>
>
>
> Rob
He says the whole problem is that two-cylinder John Deeres can't be used
for belt work, but his father ran belts from these tractors for 10,000
hours. My uncle had two two-cylinder John Deere's so he could pull with
one while the other drove a belt.
Did the author's belt jump because the engine ran too slowly? Was there
a gearshift between the engine and the belt drive? Maybe the hay press
needed a bigger belt wheel to work with a John Deere.
One day when I was in grade school my uncle told me to run along
throwing bales onto a flatbed truck. I discovered that his bales were
more compressed than I would have preferred.
E Z Peaces wrote:
> Rob H. wrote:
>>
>>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>> Rob
>>
>>> Cool hay baler video.
>>> Thanks
>>> Karl
>>
>>
>> I just changed my answer for this machine from hay baler to hay press,
>> it's not a true baler unless the machine produces a finished bale, the
>> machine in my photos only presses the hay, with the workers adding the
>> wires to the bales, as described in the article:
>>
>> http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/Farm-Shows/HAY-BALER-NO-A-HAY-PRESS.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>
> He says the whole problem is that two-cylinder John Deeres can't be used
> for belt work, but his father ran belts from these tractors for 10,000
> hours. My uncle had two two-cylinder John Deere's so he could pull with
> one while the other drove a belt.
>
> Did the author's belt jump because the engine ran too slowly? Was there
> a gearshift between the engine and the belt drive? Maybe the hay press
> needed a bigger belt wheel to work with a John Deere.
>
> One day when I was in grade school my uncle told me to run along
> throwing bales onto a flatbed truck. I discovered that his bales were
> more compressed than I would have preferred.
There is some fact in the statement about the Deers problem on a belt
while on a hay press. We ran into the same situation on ours at first.
The power stroke on the JD engine coupled with the eccentric gears and
hay press dynamics cause belt jump.
You also see belt jump if you used a stationary engine that has a small
flywheel.
--
Steve W.
Steve W. wrote:
> E Z Peaces wrote:
>> Rob H. wrote:
>>>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>>>>
>>>> Rob
>>>> Cool hay baler video.
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Karl
>>>
>>> I just changed my answer for this machine from hay baler to hay press,
>>> it's not a true baler unless the machine produces a finished bale, the
>>> machine in my photos only presses the hay, with the workers adding the
>>> wires to the bales, as described in the article:
>>>
>>> http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/Farm-Shows/HAY-BALER-NO-A-HAY-PRESS.aspx
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rob
>> He says the whole problem is that two-cylinder John Deeres can't be used
>> for belt work, but his father ran belts from these tractors for 10,000
>> hours. My uncle had two two-cylinder John Deere's so he could pull with
>> one while the other drove a belt.
>>
>> Did the author's belt jump because the engine ran too slowly? Was there
>> a gearshift between the engine and the belt drive? Maybe the hay press
>> needed a bigger belt wheel to work with a John Deere.
>>
>> One day when I was in grade school my uncle told me to run along
>> throwing bales onto a flatbed truck. I discovered that his bales were
>> more compressed than I would have preferred.
>
> There is some fact in the statement about the Deers problem on a belt
> while on a hay press. We ran into the same situation on ours at first.
> The power stroke on the JD engine coupled with the eccentric gears and
> hay press dynamics cause belt jump.
>
> You also see belt jump if you used a stationary engine that has a small
> flywheel.
>
I've found a patent for a Dain Hay Press with an eccentric gear:
1,153,199, granted in 1915. Joseph Dain says the preferred power was an
engine mounted on the press.
John Deere had been 100 miles away in Moline for 65 years. Dain must
have been aware that lots of farmers relied on Deeres to power his hay
presses. If belts jumped, it seems to me that the solution was to
reduce the required torque by increasing engine speed. This could be
accomplished by changing the ratio between the big (driven) diameter and
the small (driving) diameter of the pulley that's driven by the belt
from the tractor. I wonder if such a wheel was tried.
Yesterday I talked to a friend who used to tie the bales on his father's
hay press in the 1950s. It was pulled by mules and had an engine.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Stephen Quinn" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > 1695: Is it 3" or 24" long?
>
> 3/4" dowel 24" long
>
> CYA
> Steve
One end of a dressing stick, an aid for people with limited mobility to
dress themselves
On 2009-08-13, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
Following up in rec.crafts.metalworking as always.
1693) For drilling a hole centered in the width of rather tough
material, and without the aid of a power drill.
I would expect a high pressure lubricant on those threads, given
that use.
1694) A split ring spanner -- it engages two slots in a threaded
ring 180 degrees apart to allow rotating it. Examples would
include the backs of better quality "waterproof" watches, but
those would need a wider spacing for the two points.
Perhaps this is for collars mounting potentiometers (volume
controls) or phone jacks (connectors) in tight spaces.
1695) It looks sort of like a hook which would be used in pairs for
hanging a bicycle on the wall of a garage -- though I'm not sure
about the 3/4" dowel. Perhaps that was for mounting it
somewhere unusual.
1696) It looks like something for crushing sugar cane -- except that
I don't see a means for collecting the sap from the cane.
1697) It looks as though it might be a rack for storing pool cues or
something similar.
1698) Two rolling gantry cranes -- though they might be connected
together by the left legs. Double hoists which run along the
I-beam which makes up the top to adjust for the width of
whatever is being lifted.
Given what is in the background, I think that they may be for
removing containerize cargo units from a truck, or putting them
back on.
Another possible use would be for lifting a boat out of the
water (by straps under it) for work on the hull. But I would
then expect a bit more visible rust at the bottom of the legs,
and wheels designed to run on railroad type rails for pulling
the boat out of the water and onto the land.
Now to see what others have suggested.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
On 2009-08-14, E Z Peaces <[email protected]> wrote:
> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>> On 2009-08-13, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>>>
>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>>
>> Following up in rec.crafts.metalworking as always.
>>
>> 1693) For drilling a hole centered in the width of rather tough
>> material, and without the aid of a power drill.
>>
>> I would expect a high pressure lubricant on those threads, given
>> that use.
>
> At the bottom of the frame, I see what appears to be a hole for the rod
> or dowel or stopper to be drilled. Isn't it on one side? That makes me
> think it was made to drill off center. Is it for drilling two or more
> holes in the end of something?
I would have liked to see other angles of view photographed.
>>
>> 1694) A split ring spanner -- it engages two slots in a threaded
>> ring 180 degrees apart to allow rotating it. Examples would
>> include the backs of better quality "waterproof" watches, but
>> those would need a wider spacing for the two points.
>>
>> Perhaps this is for collars mounting potentiometers (volume
>> controls) or phone jacks (connectors) in tight spaces.
>
> The blade appears to be an inch wide. That would limit access to tight
> spaces. Wouldn't you have used thicker metal so it could be narrower?
Well -- thicker would have to be machined down thinner at the
end to match the thickness of the slots in whatever was being turned.
And usually, phone jacks would be mounted to a panel where there
would be plenty of access from the other side.
But I like another suggestion which I saw which had it being
used on the spoke nuts in a wheel prior to mounting the tire. The
design of the rim would normally provide clearance for the angled tip.
And it may have started life as a chisel or something similar,
and been modified with a file to become what it is now. I know that I
have done similar things when I needed special tools.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
On 2009-08-15, E Z Peaces <[email protected]> wrote:
> Rob H. wrote:
>>
>> "E Z Peaces" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Rob H. wrote:
>>>>> 1693. Cork drill for chemistry labs.
>>>>> Here's a fancy one: http://www.cesci.net/details.php?id=631
>>>>> Karl
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Good answer, this is correct. I'm still not sure about number 1694,
>>>> but the rest of them have been answered correctly this week, the
>>>> answers along with a video and a couple of new photos can be seen at
>>>> this address:
>>>>
>>>> http://answers297a.blogspot.com/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Rob
>>>
>>> The hand drill clamps to a table, leaving one hand to hold the stopper
>>> on the platform and the other hand to spin the wheel. 1693 would
>>> evidently have to be held by the frame with one hand while the other
>>> hand turned the handle. A stopper would have to be jammed securely
>>> into the 3/8" hole.
>>
>>
>> I'm not following this, what exactly is the 3/8" hole you are referring to?
>>
>> I agree that the bit appears to be around 1/8".
>>
>
> There's a dark spot on the left 2/3 of the floor of the frame. It looks
> oval. I interpret that as a round hole in the floor.
>
> If there is no hole, you could hold a stopper in the trapezoidal
> opening, up to 1" tall, 1-1/4" wide at the top, and 5/8" wide at the
> bottom. It looks awkward to hold the frame and stopper with one hand
> while turning with the other.
Yes -- we really needed a few photos from other angles.
> What happens when the bit hits the floor of the opening? To make a
> clean hole through a stopper, I would expect a hole in the floor perhaps
> .01" larger than the bit. I see no sign of a little hole, only what
> appears to be a 3/8" hole that's off center.
[ ... ]
>>> The bit is aligned close to the edge of the hole in the frame. Why
>>> would one drill a tiny hole near the edge of a 3/8" stopper?
>>
> I've thought of an example where it could be useful to drill an
> off-center hole in a wooden leg whose end was 3/8" in diameter. Before
> fiberglass and tubular legs were available, could a surveyor's tripod
> have a cast metal head with lightweight wooden legs?
>
> He'd want a wiggle-free fit. He could use legs that were threaded like
> broomsticks, but if a leg snapped off in the field, it might be hard to
> unscrew the stub. Besides, it would be easier to make unthreaded spare
> legs.
>
> If he used an off-center screw to wedge a leg in a hole in a metal
> tripod head, he could quickly replace a broken leg with a screwdriver.
The wooden legs on tripods tended to be pairs of square wood
stock forming a narrow truncated-bottom 'V', which has a second pair of
legs centering in the first and pivoting on a through bolt with a
sliding rectangular collar to lock the two leg sections in a straight
line. The spacing of the sides adds to the rigidity much more than you
could get with a round piece screwed into the head. And, they were
lighter than a round piece of similar strength.
I've used an old Zeiss telescope with turret eyepieces at 12,
24, and 42 power (IIRC), and I forget the focal length of the objective
lens part mounted on such a tripod -- it made a very impressive device.
I have also seen pairs of these sold as binoculars -- probably
originally made as military devices for WW-II.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need help identifying two of the tools this week:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
1693 looks like a center drill for a round tenon.
1694 looks like a lens spanner or perhaps a spanner for spokes on spoke
wheels.