[email protected] (BUB 209) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I always thought it would be great somebody made a bit that was a sort of
> oversized high speed steel rabbeting bit that you could grind the shape you
> wanted into. If it exists, I've never seen it. Duh, time to googlesearch
> "custom router bits."
Do a google search for Ballew Tool, I'm 99% sure I saw them in their catalog.
I've had custom grinding done to bits. Both steel and carbide.
If you look in your area for a re-sharpening shop, you might find
someone who can do what you need.
BUB 209 wrote:
> I always thought it would be great somebody made a bit that was a sort of
> oversized high speed steel rabbeting bit that you could grind the shape you
> wanted into. If it exists, I've never seen it. Duh, time to googlesearch
> "custom router bits."
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 11:30:49 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>On 12 Aug 2004 14:40:59 GMT, [email protected] (BUB 209) wrote:
>
>>I always thought it would be great somebody made a bit that was a sort of
>>oversized high speed steel rabbeting bit that you could grind the shape you
>>wanted into. If it exists, I've never seen it. Duh, time to googlesearch
>>"custom router bits."
>
>
>such a thing will likely never be offered to the consumer market. the
>odds of getting the geometry wrong are high and the conscequences of
>that failure are gonna make the lagal department shit a brick.
Probably so. But you could make your own by annealing an existing bit.
Grind the new shape into it, then harden and retemper.
Depending on what you are trying to do, you might be able to manage
with a shaper head for a table saw. I have made very delicate moldings
that way, by cutting one blade in "oil-hardening die stock" from an
industrial hardware.
I put blank pieces slightly short in the other two slots to try to
balance the head. Not perfect, but usable.
But, if you are not doing large production, making a scratch tool for
the exact shape involves little setup time.
Between those extremes is making or modifying a wooden molding plane.
The hand-tool options have obvious safety advantages, and are really
more pleasant if you don't have to do it all day.
Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a
"Curse thee, thou quadrant. No longer will I guide my earthly way by thee." Capt. Ahab
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 17:02:16 -0400, Rodney Myrvaagnes
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 11:30:49 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On 12 Aug 2004 14:40:59 GMT, [email protected] (BUB 209) wrote:
>>
>>>I always thought it would be great somebody made a bit that was a sort of
>>>oversized high speed steel rabbeting bit that you could grind the shape you
>>>wanted into. If it exists, I've never seen it. Duh, time to googlesearch
>>>"custom router bits."
>>
>>
>>such a thing will likely never be offered to the consumer market. the
>>odds of getting the geometry wrong are high and the conscequences of
>>that failure are gonna make the lagal department shit a brick.
>
>Probably so. But you could make your own by annealing an existing bit.
>Grind the new shape into it, then harden and retemper.
not if it's high speed steel. the hardening and tempering process for
HSS is pretty high tech.
>
>Depending on what you are trying to do, you might be able to manage
>with a shaper head for a table saw. I have made very delicate moldings
>that way, by cutting one blade in "oil-hardening die stock" from an
>industrial hardware.
that's a much better solution, assuming that the cut can be made that
way.
>
>I put blank pieces slightly short in the other two slots to try to
>balance the head. Not perfect, but usable.
SOP.
>
>But, if you are not doing large production, making a scratch tool for
>the exact shape involves little setup time.
yep.
>
>Between those extremes is making or modifying a wooden molding plane.
>
>The hand-tool options have obvious safety advantages, and are really
>more pleasant if you don't have to do it all day.
yepper.
>
>
>
>
>
>Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a
>
>
>"Curse thee, thou quadrant. No longer will I guide my earthly way by thee." Capt. Ahab
On 12 Aug 2004 14:40:59 GMT, [email protected] (BUB 209) wrote:
>I always thought it would be great somebody made a bit that was a sort of
>oversized high speed steel rabbeting bit that you could grind the shape you
>wanted into. If it exists, I've never seen it. Duh, time to googlesearch
>"custom router bits."
such a thing will likely never be offered to the consumer market. the
odds of getting the geometry wrong are high and the conscequences of
that failure are gonna make the lagal department shit a brick.
Ever try that with high speed steel? If you had, you wouldn't say that.
"Rodney Myrvaagnes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> But you could make your own by annealing an existing bit.
> Grind the new shape into it, then harden and retemper.
Something that hasn't been mentioned. If you want to grind your own router
bits, you better have a cutter grinder. If you try to freehand it, it may
work but it will vibrate like hell and trash your bearings in short order.
Consider the speed we are talking about here.
"HomerJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (BUB 209) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > I always thought it would be great somebody made a bit that was a sort
of
> > oversized high speed steel rabbeting bit that you could grind the shape
you
> > wanted into. If it exists, I've never seen it. Duh, time to
googlesearch
> > "custom router bits."
>
> Do a google search for Ballew Tool, I'm 99% sure I saw them in their
catalog.
>Something that hasn't been mentioned. If you want to grind your own router
>bits, you better have a cutter grinder. If you try to freehand it, it may
>work but it will vibrate like hell and trash your bearings in short order.
>Consider the speed we are talking about here.
I've done it so many times with good results using a 1/2" HSS rabbeting bit,
quarter inch shank. But I would like
to see a larger blank bit with a half inch
shank. What I do is to lay out the
profile on a piece of stiff paper and cut
it out with an xacto knife to match the
height of the blank cutting surface. Then
I transfer the profile from the paper to
the bit using a fine permanent marker,
then sit at the grinder or dremel with
the reading specs on and a bowl of
ice cubes next to me to quench the
bit frequently as I grind away. Takes
about 45 minutes.