So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that you love
that new saw more than her?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 14:11:59 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/29/2013 1:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> You only need one wrench for the Unisaw,
>
>My UniSaw uses two, one for the "arbor w/flange", and one for the "jam
>nut" on the outside of the blade and "flange", and came with both:
>
>https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HrR93OHXxumO7L-urpWEW9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>
>
>> and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade.
>
>True, the direction of the rotation of the blade, after the arbor nut is
>snugged, insures the nut will not loosen.
Right. You don't want anything moving after setup and you certainly
don't want the blade slipping. Snug is necessary.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 11/30/2013 9:59 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 11/30/2013 9:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> Now,*that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
>>> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
>>> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway.;-)
>>
>> Too late, patent pending:
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5952081380341089186
>>
>>
>> See you in an East Texas courthouse. LOL
>>
>
>
> That looks a bit "coon ass". ;~)
Mais Cher, c'est bon, n'est-ce pas? ;)
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
> > > I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my >=
saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >=20
> > Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothe=
red to reattach it should be beaten!!!=20
Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the saw, in=
order to do the work needed.
Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or similar co=
rner bracing) to wrap around the saw. Make the support frame the height of=
the tabletop. Lever the saw's tabletop up *onto the support, so that the =
tabletop rests on the *support frame. The saw being supported by the table=
top is no problem. Get the saw off the floor and high enough to do the b=
ase frame installation and to get the mobile base under neath. When done, =
use the levering method to lower the saw onto the mobile base.
*During the upward levering process, shim the raising with 2X4s, as it goes=
up, across the span of the 3 sided support framing. The tabletop will act=
ually be resting on the crossing 2X4 shims, not on the original support fra=
me. To lower the saw onto the mobile base, reverse the (raising) shimming =
procedure.
Sonny=20
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 21:56:21 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Basic tools to move heavy loads:
>>>>>
>>>>> * One (1) ton bottle jack
>>>>> * One (1) ton "Come-A-Long
>>>>> * ONE "Universal house key", AKA: Spring steel pry bar in the
>>>>> shape
>>>>> of
>>>>> a question mark.
>>>>> * 2 lb Drill hammer
>-----------------------------------------------------
>"Bill" wrote:
>
>>>> What do you do with the hammer drill--make places to insert hooks?
>>> ----------------------------------------------------
>>> Try working without one, you'll answer your own question in a
>>> hurry.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>You can thank your old friend Newton and his laws.
>
>Impulse = Momentum
>
>(Mass)*(Velocity) = Momentum
>
>Since you are often working in tight conditions and can not develop
>velocity,
>increasing the mass is your only option if you want to develop a
>significant blow.
>
>Why heavy head, short handled hammers earned the name "Drill Hammer",
>I'm clueless.
Because they're designed for use with star drills?
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Mine is left-tilt. also. If I stand on the left side I'd have to
> reach across the blade. That's a pretty awkward position, compared
> with standing in front.
Nothing awkward about it ... allows you to get both hands in front of you
and equally into play. Try it a few times, before you knock it.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
> Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Friday, November 29, 2013 8:24:41 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>>> > So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
>>> BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
>>
>> Paint the nut and washer neon yellow?
>>
>> Sonny
>
> Excellent!
IIRC, JOAT holds the patent on that.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On Mon, 2 Dec 2013 07:33:41 -0500, "Morgans"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my saw.
>>> Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered
>> to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>
>The bottom is often taken off so the surface of the saw is not higher when
>the machine is raised up to put on a mobile base.
Is an inch (maybe) that important?
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
>> BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
>>
>> And while it is a left tilt the "large" access door is on the right
>> under the extension table.
> <snip>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Leon,
>
> Are you the one with the tilting roller conveyor used as a run out
> table for your T/S?
>
> Lew
I have the Griz/HTC fold down 15 roller out feed, so maybe that is a yes.
=20
> I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the blade. =
=20
....
You only need one wrench for the Unisaw, and you don't have to overtighten =
the nut holding the flange and blade. (I also use a dampener.) You just nee=
d to snug it and the rotation will spin the nut sufficiently tight.
I'd recommend this - it's a combined nut and flange to hold the blade. It's=
made my life a lot easier. It allows me to change blades in a matter of se=
conds, so I rarely use a combination blade. Here's a site that's selling th=
is, and I have no interest blah, blah ...=20
http://www.tylertool.com/delta-36-201-standard-and-dado-arbor-nut-assembly/=
dwwn36-201,default,pd.html?ref=3Dtylercipla&zmam=3D31282435&zmas=3D47&zmac=
=3D667&zmap=3Ddwwn36-201&srccode=3Dcii_17588969&cpncode=3D32-288241267-2
On 11/29/2013 1:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> You only need one wrench for the Unisaw,
My UniSaw uses two, one for the "arbor w/flange", and one for the "jam
nut" on the outside of the blade and "flange", and came with both:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HrR93OHXxumO7L-urpWEW9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
> and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade.
True, the direction of the rotation of the blade, after the arbor nut is
snugged, insures the nut will not loosen.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
> dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
> blade? Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for
> practice anyway.
>
> I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
> blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away
> from the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches
> for this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this
> is the sort I need to use!
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
Didn't the saw come with the appropriate wrenches? On the two saws I've
had, the wrenches were long enough to keep my hands safely away from the
teeth during tightening and loosening operations.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
John Grossbohlin wrote:
>>> I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM
>>> unit... I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet
>>> cabinet saw that replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the
>>> ease of use encourages you to actually use it! BTW, I got them
>>> both from Mike's.
> I'll post some photos to abpw so you can see how it looked mounted.
---------------------------------------------------------
That's the beast.
As John said, "You actually use it".
Lew
"Leon" wrote:
> So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
> BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
>
> And while it is a left tilt the "large" access door is on the right
> under the extension table.
<snip>
------------------------------------------------------
Leon,
Are you the one with the tilting roller conveyor used as a run out
table for your T/S?
Lew
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of
> the saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade,
> decreases your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by
> about 50%.
>
> Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
>
A large mesh screen could be put over the dust collection port to keep
the nut and washer from going down into the hose. A 1/2" or 3/4" mesh
would catch the nut and washer while allowing most sawdust to pass
through freely.
It's probably more trouble than it's worth, especially since the dropped
part usually winds up in the hose but I'm willing to sell prototypes to
anyone with excess cash.
A rare earth magnet or two outside the dust port might work better...
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Bill" wrote:
> I took another look at the OEM splitter. It appears to sit quite a
> bit further back from the blade than the Biesmeyer (78-961) would.
> If I understand correctly, one doesn't get the choice of using any
> blade guard with the 78-961 splitter.
----------------------------------------------------------
The OEM supplied splitter/blade guard/anti-kick-back supplied by Delta
almost begs you not to use it.
It reminds me of a horse as designed by a committee, a CAMEL.
I finally got rid of the clear plastic blade guard and got some usage
as a splitter/anti-kick-back device.
Lew
Bill wrote:
> According to the manual, and from all appearances, I'll require two
> wrenches for blade changes.
-------------------------------------------------
That's true, both are sheet metal stampings, about 1/8" thick.
One is an open end, the other is a closed end combination
on each end.
BTW, for the color blind, they are both black.<G>
Lew
Bill wrote:
> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
> hex socket head makes any difference.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What you are describing doesn't exist.
You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
head cap screws.
They are two completely different fasteners.
A 5/16"-18 flanged nut will fit either one.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>> Leon,
>>
>> Are you the one with the tilting roller conveyor used as a run out
>> table for your T/S?
>>
>> Lew
------------------------------------------------------------
"Leon" wrote:
>
> I have the Griz/HTC fold down 15 roller out feed, so maybe that is
> a yes.
------------------------------------------
That's it.
Thank you
Lew
Mike Marlow wrote:
>
> You could easily do it with just one bottle jack. Put it in the
> center (front to back) of one side of the table with a 2x4 on top of
> the jack, spanning the table. Lift it as far as it will go and
> block it. Go to the other side and do the same. Many of us have
> faced similar challenges in the past and these ideas are proven to
> work. Though they may seem a little daunting to the unitiated.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Basic tools to move heavy loads:
* One (1) ton bottle jack
* One (1) ton "Come-A-Long
* ONE "Universal house key", AKA: Spring steel pry bar in the shape of
a question mark.
* 2 lb Drill hammer
* Lots of shim packs.
A shim pack consists of 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" thick pieces of plywood,
3-1/2" x 12"
along with 1-1/2" thick tubafors, 3-1/2" x 12".
Typical shim pack is about 6" thick.
I moved a 55 ft boat to level it out with nothing but the above.
Most important rule of all:
You move to the load, not the other way around.
Lew
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> You could easily do it with just one bottle jack. Put it in the
>>> center (front to back) of one side of the table with a 2x4 on top
>>> of
>>> the jack, spanning the table. Lift it as far as it will go and
>>> block it. Go to the other side and do the same. Many of us have
>>> faced similar challenges in the past and these ideas are proven to
>>> work. Though they may seem a little daunting to the unitiated.
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Basic tools to move heavy loads:
>>
>> * One (1) ton bottle jack
>> * One (1) ton "Come-A-Long
>> * ONE "Universal house key", AKA: Spring steel pry bar in the shape
>> of
>> a question mark.
>> * 2 lb Drill hammer
-----------------------------------------------------
"Bill" wrote:
> What do you do with the hammer drill--make places to insert hooks?
----------------------------------------------------
Try working without one, you'll answer your own question in a hurry.
Lew
Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>
>>>> Basic tools to move heavy loads:
>>>>
>>>> * One (1) ton bottle jack
>>>> * One (1) ton "Come-A-Long
>>>> * ONE "Universal house key", AKA: Spring steel pry bar in the
>>>> shape
>>>> of
>>>> a question mark.
>>>> * 2 lb Drill hammer
-----------------------------------------------------
"Bill" wrote:
>>> What do you do with the hammer drill--make places to insert hooks?
>> ----------------------------------------------------
>> Try working without one, you'll answer your own question in a
>> hurry.
>>
>> Lew
>>
--------------------------------------------------------------
You can thank your old friend Newton and his laws.
Impulse = Momentum
(Mass)*(Velocity) = Momentum
Since you are often working in tight conditions and can not develop
velocity,
increasing the mass is your only option if you want to develop a
significant blow.
Why heavy head, short handled hammers earned the name "Drill Hammer",
I'm clueless.
Lew
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Mine is left-tilt. also. If I stand on the left side I'd have to
>> reach across the blade. That's a pretty awkward position, compared
>> with standing in front.
>
> Nothing awkward about it ... allows you to get both hands in front of you
> and equally into play. Try it a few times, before you knock it.
Then again, I learned a long time ago that you don't need to raise the
blade to the full height to change it.
With the blade lowered to about half height, or less, there is more than
enough room for two LARGE hands. I generally put the index finger of the
left hand on the end of the arbor shaft, after the the nut is placed with
the right hand, and before turning it ... haven't dropped an arbor nut that
way in ten years, more or less. :)
Particular handy position when mounting a dado set.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 11:54:29 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the blade.
>....
>
>You only need one wrench for the Unisaw, and you don't have to overtighten the nut holding the flange and blade. (I also use a dampener.) You just need to snug it and the rotation will spin the nut sufficiently tight.
Unisaws use two. One for the arbor and one for the nut.
>I'd recommend this - it's a combined nut and flange to hold the blade. It's made my life a lot easier. It allows me to change blades in a matter of seconds, so I rarely use a combination blade. Here's a site that's selling this, and I have no interest blah, blah ...
>
>http://www.tylertool.com/delta-36-201-standard-and-dado-arbor-nut-assembly/dwwn36-201,default,pd.html?ref=tylercipla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=667&zmap=dwwn36-201&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=32-288241267-2
>
On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>>
>> Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
>> BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
>>
>> Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
>> mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
>>
>
> Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
> dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
> blade?
> Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
> anyway.
>
> I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
> blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
> the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
> this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
> sort I need to use!
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too slow
you burn the blade.
Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.
Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things that
can be done... But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after
making some sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.
BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
--
Jeff
<[email protected]> wrote:
> BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
> get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
> three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
> cards.
Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.
Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.=20
Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on the =
shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the saw's mo=
bile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for the differen=
t tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's wrenchs and miter=
guage were not with the saw and no telling where the auction folks misplac=
ed them, if they were ever there in the first place.
Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have been =
stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.
Sonny
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 18:46:53 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>> I can't see the need for graded bolts underneath your saw.
>>> These go between the "sub-base" and the rest of the cabinet. Not at
>>> the mobile base. They are important in the sense that if they were to
>>> break, the saw WOULD easily tip. I have ordered 2 new ones (all they
>>> had in stock) , 2 of the old ones appear to be in good shape. I will
>>> seek suitable nuts at the BORG. I ordered some arbor wrenches while I
>>> was at it. In the meantime, I'll start collecting plywood scraps to
>>> help with my leveraging.
>>>
>> Well - we each have to do what makes us comfortable but I have to side with
>> Jeff on this Bill. There are no stresses on those bolts that require a
>> hardened bolt. A basic grade 3 would suffice. But - you really have to go
>> with what makes you comfortable.
>The 85 cents for each of the 2 bolts didn't bother me. The $19.00 for
>the pair of arbor wrenches wasn't so awful. It was the $9.00 shipping!
>The company's offering the Biesemeyer splitter offer free shipping--but
>they will have to wait their turn! ; )
The sheet metal will probably fail before vanilla bolts will. I hear
you about the shipping. Pisses me off, too. I think it was Leon who
posted the links for TopCote a few days back. Good prices, until I
found out they wanted more for shipping than the product. It kinda
put a wet blanket on the whole idea. It's not the money, I suppose,
rather the sucker prices that piss me off ("but buy *NOW* and we'll
include a SECOND free for just shipping and handling").
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 21:48:48 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and
>>>>> extendable "engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've
>>>>> got a few tools rental stores close by.
>>>>>
>>>> I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but
>>>> an engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare.
>>>> Likewise, you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the
>>>> table.
>>> Not a bad idea. If I had 4 of them, I might try that. Earlier I was
>>> considering whether I could use my twelve 4-foot Pony pipe clamps.
>>> Unfortunately, they aren't quite designed for that. But I have
>>> successfully used them to push things apart. Screwing 2 of the 4
>>> footers together was helpful in my deck step repair project last
>>> summer.
>> Hey Bill - it's quite possilbe I am not understanding your dilema very well.
>> How high do you have to lift your saw off the ground? The purpose of
>> lifting it is to unbolt the existing roller base and install a different
>> roller base?
>
>A little more. Whoever brought the saw to auction removed the 4" high,
>heavy steel sub-base from the bottom of the cabinet. It's the part that
>makes a recent Unisaw have a dark band at the bottom, and I'm pretty
>sure the it is very important structurally. And I also need to swap
>out the ad-hoc base the auctioneers stuck it in, and replace it in the
>double-wide one it belongs in (for 52" Unisaws). I basically need about
>6" of height to do all of the above, and appropriate hardware (which
>I'll call the Delta service center for on Monday).
>
>
>> You can tip the saw and get one end off the ground by (how
>> much?), before you feel insecure with the tip angle? Have you posted any
>> pictures of your new saw on your web site?
>Definitely not ready for pictures yet! I get some time off from work in
>about 2 weeks. Most likely that's when this project will get completed.
>
>It's hard enough to lift a corner of the saw with my bare hands that I
>quit before I hurt something. I really have convinced myself that it's
>heavier than it looks. I can slide it around just fine. And, it take
>very little force on the end of the extension table to tip the whole
>she-bang! Being properly fitted with it's sub-base into the mobile base
>may improve it's stability. The legs will surely help too! : )
>
Don't lift the saw, push the top sideways (to slide something under
the side). Use leverage, not muscle.
>
>>
>> I have some different ideas but they may or may not apply. Answers to the
>> questions above might help offer better suggestions.
>>
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 21:48:48 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and
>>>>>> extendable "engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've
>>>>>> got a few tools rental stores close by.
>>>>>>
>>>>> I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but
>>>>> an engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare.
>>>>> Likewise, you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the
>>>>> table.
>>>> Not a bad idea. If I had 4 of them, I might try that. Earlier I was
>>>> considering whether I could use my twelve 4-foot Pony pipe clamps.
>>>> Unfortunately, they aren't quite designed for that. But I have
>>>> successfully used them to push things apart. Screwing 2 of the 4
>>>> footers together was helpful in my deck step repair project last
>>>> summer.
>>> Hey Bill - it's quite possilbe I am not understanding your dilema very well.
>>> How high do you have to lift your saw off the ground? The purpose of
>>> lifting it is to unbolt the existing roller base and install a different
>>> roller base?
>> A little more. Whoever brought the saw to auction removed the 4" high,
>> heavy steel sub-base from the bottom of the cabinet. It's the part that
>> makes a recent Unisaw have a dark band at the bottom, and I'm pretty
>> sure the it is very important structurally. And I also need to swap
>> out the ad-hoc base the auctioneers stuck it in, and replace it in the
>> double-wide one it belongs in (for 52" Unisaws). I basically need about
>> 6" of height to do all of the above, and appropriate hardware (which
>> I'll call the Delta service center for on Monday).
>>
>>
>>> You can tip the saw and get one end off the ground by (how
>>> much?), before you feel insecure with the tip angle? Have you posted any
>>> pictures of your new saw on your web site?
>> Definitely not ready for pictures yet! I get some time off from work in
>> about 2 weeks. Most likely that's when this project will get completed.
>>
>> It's hard enough to lift a corner of the saw with my bare hands that I
>> quit before I hurt something. I really have convinced myself that it's
>> heavier than it looks. I can slide it around just fine. And, it take
>> very little force on the end of the extension table to tip the whole
>> she-bang! Being properly fitted with it's sub-base into the mobile base
>> may improve it's stability. The legs will surely help too! : )
>>
> Don't lift the saw, push the top sideways (to slide something under
> the side). Use leverage, not muscle.
I will, but Mike asked me "How much I could tip it", and the answer is
not enough to do something constructive. With a helper, the answer
might be quite different.
Indeed, two of us moved the saw to my home from 5 miles away, on it's
little mobile base. A small hand winch pulled it right up some
ramps--I would not have wanted to stand behind the saw, while it was
going up or down, without the cable attached. As you know, it is heavy
enough to hurt you in a big way.
Bill
>>> I have some different ideas but they may or may not apply. Answers to the
>>> questions above might help offer better suggestions.
>>>
[email protected] wrote:
> It's not the money, I suppose, rather the sucker prices that piss me
> off ("but buy *NOW* and we'll include a SECOND free for just shipping
> and handling").
Ha, Ha. Yeah, I see more and more sucker pricing all the time (how
about car prices?) Unfortunately for us, I guess it confirms that
there are a lot of suckers out there!
On 11/30/2013 10:49 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>>>
>>> A rare earth magnet or two outside the dust port might work better...
>>
>> Now, *that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
>> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
>> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway. ;-)
>
> Heck - they sell goose neck magnets about 18" long - or longer, every day.
> Mechanics have used these things for decades.
>
Won't work, The nuts always fall 19".
On 11/30/2013 9:59 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 11/30/2013 9:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Now,*that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
>> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
>> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway.;-)
>
> Too late, patent pending:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5952081380341089186
>
>
> See you in an East Texas courthouse. LOL
>
That looks a bit "coon ass". ;~)
On 11/30/2013 9:38 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:18:39 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
>>> I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
>>> stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
>>> works.
>>>
>> What do they call the ones that look like a series of long roller stands?
>
> "Outfeed Roller tables"?
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020511/22598/HTC-Universal-Table-Saw-Outfeed-Roller-Table.aspx
>
$299. at Grizzly and still made by HTC.
On 11/30/2013 9:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On 30 Nov 2013 03:35:07 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of
>>> the saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade,
>>> decreases your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by
>>> about 50%.
>>>
>>> Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
>>>
>>
>> A large mesh screen could be put over the dust collection port to keep
>> the nut and washer from going down into the hose. A 1/2" or 3/4" mesh
>> would catch the nut and washer while allowing most sawdust to pass
>> through freely.
>
> I don't think that's a good plan. Slivers of wood would get stuck and
> create a dam for the dust. I've never had the nut enter the hose
> anyway. I guess it's because I turn the DC off when changing blades.
> ;-)
>
>> It's probably more trouble than it's worth, especially since the dropped
>> part usually winds up in the hose but I'm willing to sell prototypes to
>> anyone with excess cash.
>>
>> A rare earth magnet or two outside the dust port might work better...
>
> Now, *that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway. ;-)
>
Better yet, a rare earth magnet inside the thumb, and finger tips of a
glove. ;~) You might have to leave the glove down in there, what harm
could come of that?
On 11/30/2013 9:45 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:24:41 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 11/29/2013 6:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
>>>> get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
>>>> three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
>>>> cards.
>>>
>>> Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
>>> saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
>>> your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.
>>>
>>> Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
>>>
>>
>>
>> So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
>> BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
>>
>> And while it is a left tilt the "large" access door is on the right
>> under the extension table.
>
> Oh, crap! There goes all my plans for an outfeed table. The dust
> port would be inaccessible. Back to the draw^h^h^h^h Sketchup.
I actually access the dust hose from inside the saw, it disconnects from
the saw blade duct via a thumb screw hose clamp.
FWIW my exterior dust port is on the back of the saw too. The nut ends
up inside the inner dust hose.
Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Friday, November 29, 2013 8:24:41 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>> > So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
>> BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
>
> Paint the nut and washer neon yellow?
>
> Sonny
Excellent!
On 12/2/2013 9:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Is an inch (maybe) that important?
No kidding.
Didn't look at the photos that closely, but perhaps the mobile base for
Bill's saw is third party?
Mine, on a factory Delta mobile base, is raised way less than 1/2",
probably closer to a 1/4", when the factory mobile base is in the fixed
position, and that's with the sub base attached.
I have seen the sub base removed only on one Unisaw where the cabinet
shop put the saw on wheels.
For use on a Delta mobile base, there should be no need to remove the
sub base unless you just wanted a very low table top for some reason,
like for handicap use.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 11/29/2013 11:53 AM, Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
>>> Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
>>> times today just to make sure the saw was okay...
>>
>> Glad you didn't tuck it in...
>>
>> I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
>> Works great, 5 minutes of work.
>> Has never caused a problem for me.
>> Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
>> BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
>>
>> Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
>> mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
>>
>> See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
>> it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
>> then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.
>>
>>
> How is that splitter (fundamentally) different than this one that came
> with the saw, except that its attached to the blade guard? Maybe you
> are not aware that I have it now? Please see the bottom of the page at
> the following link:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com//MySite/Splitter.pdf
Because you will want an outfeed table. It makes it much easier and
safer to work rather than having the wood you are cutting tip toward the
floor and you reaching over the blade.
With an outfeed table you don't want the back support. It requires you
to remove too much of the table to tilt your blade. Just remove the rear
support rod.
--
Jeff
On 11/30/2013 10:38 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:18:39 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
>>> I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
>>> stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
>>> works.
>>>
>> What do they call the ones that look like a series of long roller stands?
>
> "Outfeed Roller tables"?
> http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020511/22598/HTC-Universal-Table-Saw-Outfeed-Roller-Table.aspx
>
Of course Bill, you can always go get a sheet of ply, some hardwood or
pine and make yourself one with a new Unisaw. ;-)
Goto the 51c pile at your Home Depot... grab some wood and make some saw
dust...
--
Jeff
On 11/29/2013 9:08 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Once again, Norm to the rescue.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/qg88zdr
>
> Check out the roller stand.
>
> It's stable which is more than you can say for the fold up units.
>
> Lew
>
>
I personally like the outfeed better than the rollers.
But I know that Leon likes the rollers better.
--
Jeff
"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>For use on a Delta mobile base, there should be no need to remove the sub
>base unless you just wanted a very low table top for some reason, like for
>handicap use.
...or for kids or short people! Having had a number of encounters with
wheelchair bound folks lately I have come to appreciate the fact that their
needs are much different from mine and and as suggested a low saw would be
useful to them.
In my case after first using small step stools in the shop I made a platform
maybe 20"x30"x6" for my kids to stand on while using the lathe and other
tools so that they were at a good working height.
John
On 11/29/2013 1:28 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
>> dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
>> blade? Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for
>> practice anyway.
>>
>> I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
>> blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away
>> from the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches
>> for this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this
>> is the sort I need to use!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>
> Didn't the saw come with the appropriate wrenches? On the two saws I've
> had, the wrenches were long enough to keep my hands safely away from the
> teeth during tightening and loosening operations.
>
> Puckdropper
>
Typically and of that era the saws came with an arbor nut wrench. It is
best to also use an arbor wrench. My old Jet cabinet saw did not come
with 2 wrenches I had to order the extra, my SawStop came with 2 wrenches.
On 11/30/2013 9:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Now,*that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway.;-)
Too late, patent pending:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5952081380341089186
See you in an East Texas courthouse. LOL
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>With the blade lowered to about half height, or less, there is more than
>enough room for two LARGE hands. I generally put the index finger of the
>left hand on the end of the arbor shaft, after the the nut is placed with
>the right hand, and before turning it ... haven't dropped an arbor nut that
>way in ten years, more or less. :)
I use the same process... it's also been a good 10 years since I dropped the
nut or washer. I don't think I've dropped it yet on the cabinet saw that
I've had for just shy of 10 years. That said, I'm sure I'll drop it the next
time I change blades. ;~)
John
"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
>Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
>Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage
I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit... I put
one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that replaced it.
The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages you to actually
use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.
John
On Saturday, November 30, 2013 10:06:13 AM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:
> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the saw, =
in order to do the work needed.=20
Moving the saw by its tabletop:
Some folks discourage moving a saw by its tabletop, i.e, it may dis-align t=
he top/miter slots with the blade alignment. I would recommend you double =
check the tabletop alignemnt, with the blade, after everything is set up, a=
nyway. Considering the base frame and mobile base installations you're hav=
ing to do, no telling what all and how the auction folks handled and moved =
the saw.
The table top is usually bolted onto the frame pretty darn well. IMO, simp=
le, gentle moving, by handling the table top, doesn't affect the alignment,=
but no telling what the auction folks may have done.
Lever the saw up, somehow, on a support frame. Do the base work. Check th=
e alignments, later.... it should be done, anyway.
Sonny
On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
> Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
> times today just to make sure the saw was okay...
Glad you didn't tuck it in...
I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
Works great, 5 minutes of work.
Has never caused a problem for me.
Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.
--
Jeff
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 18:25:59 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 16:18:52 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Sonny wrote:
>>>> On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my > saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >
>>>>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>>>> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the saw, in order to do the work needed.
>>>>
>>>> Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or similar corner bracing) to wrap around the saw. Make the support frame the height of the tabletop. Lever the saw's tabletop up *onto the support, so that the tabletop rests on the *support frame. The saw being supported by the table top is no problem. Get the saw off the floor and high enough to do the base frame installation and to get the mobile base under neath. When done, use the levering method to lower the saw onto the mobile base.
>>>>
>>>> *During the upward levering process, shim the raising with 2X4s, as it goes up, across the span of the 3 sided support framing. The tabletop will actually be resting on the crossing 2X4 shims, not on the original support frame. To lower the saw onto the mobile base, reverse the (raising) shimming procedure.
>>>>
>>>> Sonny
>>>>
>>> That's very clever solution. I slept on the problem all night and only
>>> deduced that the top would have to come off. I like your idea better. I
>>> will create a SketchUp drawing of my boxed/framed support for your
>>> edification before I build the structure.
>>>
>>> Will a "crow bar" work for the incremental levering? Or is that asking
>>> too much from a crowbar?
>> A crowbar should work fine but I'd be worried about buggering up the
>> case, allowing rust. I just used 2x4s laid flat, then "walked" the
>> saw onto them, adding 2x4s until I got it to the height I wanted.
>
>I feel fortunate I have not (evidently) encountered any problems already
>without the heavy steel sub-base on the saw. Because it's currently
>lacking that, I'm not going to "walk/rock it", but that's a clever
>approach.
I meant "walking" it up onto the 2x4s so I could get the mobile stand
under it. If it makes you feel safer, use a 1x as an intermediate
step. Yeah, the saw is heavy but it really isn't as hard as it
sounds. I moved mine, by myself, from the pallet to the mobile stand,
and a few years later, from the garage of one house to the garage,
then to the basement of another. Leverage is the key but I'd worry
about using metal-on-painted metal.
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 12:09:36 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>woodchucker wrote:
>>
>> Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
>> BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
>>
>> Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
>> mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
>>
>
>Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
>dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the blade?
>Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
>anyway.
>
>I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
>blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
>the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
>this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
>sort I need to use!
The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches. One is open-ended
to slips behind the blade to capture the arbor and the other is
box-end wrench used for the nut. Both are stamped steel and fit in a
slot in the motor cover.
You can also get one of these. I find it's too much trouble, but you
may find otherwise. http://www.rockler.com/bench-dog-blade-loc
BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
cards.
On 12/3/2013 5:26 PM, Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> On 12/2/2013 10:49 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
>>>>>>> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
>>>>>>> hex socket head makes any difference.
>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What you are describing doesn't exist.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
>>>>>> head cap screws.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> They are two completely different fasteners.
>>>>>
>>>>> The parts diagram indicates (#83) 5/16-18 x 3/4" HEX SOC HD SCREW
>>>>> and also (#88) 5/16-18 FLANGE NUT.
>>>>>
>>>>> But when I locate the part number (#83) in the list on the right side
>>>>> of the page, it says "Carriage Bolt".
>>>
>>> I tipped the saw by the long rails (that's "the ticket"...) and
>>> recovered 3 of the 4 bolts so far--one has to reach underneath the
>>> bottom of the saw, 3 or 4 inches beyond a ledge, to get at them.
>>>
>>> They are marked 307A MUL, which means, from my brief reading, that they
>>> conform to the 307A Standard, and are of Grade 8.8. Except for the
>>> higher grade, they are carriage bolts. They shine like chrome. A
>>> couple of them are knarled enough that I won't hesitate to replace
>>> them. That's just FYI; everything under control here.
>>>
>>> Bill
>> I can't see the need for graded bolts underneath your saw.
> These go between the "sub-base" and the rest of the cabinet. Not at the
> mobile base. They are important in the sense that if they were to
> break, the saw WOULD easily tip. I have ordered 2 new ones (all they
> had in stock) , 2 of the old ones appear to be in good shape. I will
> seek suitable nuts at the BORG. I ordered some arbor wrenches while I
> was at it. In the meantime, I'll start collecting plywood scraps to help
> with my leveraging.
>
>
>> Not for the bottom pan, or for mounting to the mobile base.
>> The only place I see a graded bolt being needed is for arbor assembly,
>> and motor mount assembly.
>>
>> Possibly for the top to the base... but not really, there's not a lot
>> of stress there.
>>
>> if you can't find a graded carriage bolt a regular carriage bolt will do.
>>
>> My two cents... do with it what you will.
>>
>>
>
Again, not necessary, regular bolts would have sufficed. There is not
enough stress there. I doubt you could sheer a regular carriage bolt
even if it were undersized by 2 sizes for that purpose.
--
Jeff
On 11/29/2013 8:47 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 9:08 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Once again, Norm to the rescue.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/qg88zdr
>>
>> Check out the roller stand.
>>
>> It's stable which is more than you can say for the fold up units.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
> I personally like the outfeed better than the rollers.
> But I know that Leon likes the rollers better.
>
>
>
The roller set up has two advantages over the regular flat surface store
bought versions.
1. It does not provide a flat surface that fills with stuff.
2. It mounts totally to the saw cabinet, no support legs needed. This
lets you move the saw at any time with out having to readjust support
legs. The rollers can also be left in the up position when moving the saw.
On 11/30/2013 8:01 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Friday, November 29, 2013 8:24:41 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
>>>> > So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
>>>> BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
>>>
>>> Paint the nut and washer neon yellow?
>>>
>>> Sonny
>>
>> Excellent!
>
> IIRC, JOAT holds the patent on that.
>
Then Festool GREEN!
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 12:02:00 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Bill, just thought of a recommendation as I was changing my blade.
>
>Take your arbor washer off, put a piece of 600 paper on your table top.
>Rub the arbor washer on the paper until your get a nice even pattern.
>
>Sometimes the Delta washers are rough machined. This will give you a
>nice contact point to the blade.
>
>I did mine years ago, I was surprised how out it was.
FWIW on my Unisaw the nut is 7/8 as is the spacing on the arbor. I
have a wrench made from a band saw blade for my arbor wrench and a 7/8
box end wrench.
Mark
On 12/2/2013 10:49 PM, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
>>>>> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
>>>>> hex socket head makes any difference.
>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> What you are describing doesn't exist.
>>>>
>>>> You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
>>>> head cap screws.
>>>>
>>>> They are two completely different fasteners.
>>>
>>> The parts diagram indicates (#83) 5/16-18 x 3/4" HEX SOC HD SCREW
>>> and also (#88) 5/16-18 FLANGE NUT.
>>>
>>> But when I locate the part number (#83) in the list on the right side
>>> of the page, it says "Carriage Bolt".
>
> I tipped the saw by the long rails (that's "the ticket"...) and
> recovered 3 of the 4 bolts so far--one has to reach underneath the
> bottom of the saw, 3 or 4 inches beyond a ledge, to get at them.
>
> They are marked 307A MUL, which means, from my brief reading, that they
> conform to the 307A Standard, and are of Grade 8.8. Except for the
> higher grade, they are carriage bolts. They shine like chrome. A
> couple of them are knarled enough that I won't hesitate to replace
> them. That's just FYI; everything under control here.
>
> Bill
I can't see the need for graded bolts underneath your saw.
Not for the bottom pan, or for mounting to the mobile base.
The only place I see a graded bolt being needed is for arbor assembly,
and motor mount assembly.
Possibly for the top to the base... but not really, there's not a lot of
stress there.
if you can't find a graded carriage bolt a regular carriage bolt will do.
My two cents... do with it what you will.
--
Jeff
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 18:52:12 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
>> get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
>> three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
>> cards.
>
>Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
>saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
>your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.
Mine is left-tilt. also. If I stand on the left side I'd have to
reach across the blade. That's a pretty awkward position, compared
with standing in front.
>Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
;-)
Bill, just thought of a recommendation as I was changing my blade.
Take your arbor washer off, put a piece of 600 paper on your table top.
Rub the arbor washer on the paper until your get a nice even pattern.
Sometimes the Delta washers are rough machined. This will give you a
nice contact point to the blade.
I did mine years ago, I was surprised how out it was.
--
Jeff
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 16:18:52 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Sonny wrote:
>> On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my > saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >
>>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the saw, in order to do the work needed.
>>
>> Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or similar corner bracing) to wrap around the saw. Make the support frame the height of the tabletop. Lever the saw's tabletop up *onto the support, so that the tabletop rests on the *support frame. The saw being supported by the table top is no problem. Get the saw off the floor and high enough to do the base frame installation and to get the mobile base under neath. When done, use the levering method to lower the saw onto the mobile base.
>>
>> *During the upward levering process, shim the raising with 2X4s, as it goes up, across the span of the 3 sided support framing. The tabletop will actually be resting on the crossing 2X4 shims, not on the original support frame. To lower the saw onto the mobile base, reverse the (raising) shimming procedure.
>>
>> Sonny
>>
>That's very clever solution. I slept on the problem all night and only
>deduced that the top would have to come off. I like your idea better. I
>will create a SketchUp drawing of my boxed/framed support for your
>edification before I build the structure.
>
>Will a "crow bar" work for the incremental levering? Or is that asking
>too much from a crowbar?
A crowbar should work fine but I'd be worried about buggering up the
case, allowing rust. I just used 2x4s laid flat, then "walked" the
saw onto them, adding 2x4s until I got it to the height I wanted.
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>woodchucker wrote:
>> On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
>>>> BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
>>>>
>>>> Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
>>>> mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
>>> dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
>>> blade?
>>> Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
>>> anyway.
>>>
>> Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too
>> slow you burn the blade.
>
>I knew you could burn the wood. I didn't think about "burning" the blade.
>>
>> Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.
>
>Well, we are NOT going to have any kick back!
We're not? Well, I haven't had a lot of trouble with it but not all
are so lucky. I made up for it with kickbacks from my RAS. ;-)
>> Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things
>> that can be done...
>I don't doubt you for a second.
Never reach across the blade. Hands on one side. Eyes on blade.
>> But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after making some
>> sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.
>Ask Lew, I'm not the sort that has lots of extra hundred dollar bills to
>toss around! The saw came with a sharp blade on it, and with no wrench!
>The best way to proceed seems evident. : )
;-)
You might want to inspect the blade to make sure it's still flat. It's
pretty easy to do, at this level anyway, by clamping a straight-edge
(or something) to the table. Adjust it to just touch a tooth. Rotate
the blade by hand (saw unplugged) and observe the other teeth. Some
will be not touch but half (or every third, depending on the blade)
should.
>
>>
>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
works.
Mike Marlow wrote:
> So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
> Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that you love
> that new saw more than her?
>
It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. I have plans to move the
saw into its rightful stand, into its appropriate place (not sure if I
should try that by myself) and install an appropriate outlet soon. In
the meantime, I had to settle for turkey and dressing, Canasta, apple
cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage
before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure the saw
was okay...
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
>> Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today? Is your wife telling you that
>> you love that new saw more than her?
>>
> It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. I have plans to move the
> saw into its rightful stand, into its appropriate place (not sure if I
> should try that by myself) and install an appropriate outlet soon. In
> the meantime, I had to settle for turkey and dressing, Canasta, apple
> cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
> Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
> Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the
> garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
> the saw was okay...
>
Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 1:26 AM, Bill wrote:
>> Admittedly I did look into the garage before bed last night and 2 or 3
>> times today just to make sure the saw was okay...
>
> Glad you didn't tuck it in...
>
> I'm uploading some pics of a home made splitter.
> Works great, 5 minutes of work.
> Has never caused a problem for me.
> Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
> BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
>
> Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
> mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
>
> See http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0 for a simple splitter.
> it's just a piece of aluminum (could be steel), with a hole drilled,
> then cut a slot to the hole so it slips on w/o removing the screw.
>
>
How is that splitter (fundamentally) different than this one that came
with the saw, except that its attached to the blade guard? Maybe you
are not aware that I have it now? Please see the bottom of the page at
the following link:
http://web.newsguy.com//MySite/Splitter.pdf
woodchucker wrote:
>
> Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
> BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
>
> Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
> mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
>
Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the blade?
Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
anyway.
I think I will need some appropriate wrench(es?) for removing the
blade. Can someone point me to one which will keep my fingers away from
the teeth? I am under the impression they make special wrenches for
this purpose and, based on my experience with sharp blades, this is the
sort I need to use!
Thanks,
Bill
John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>> cobbler, pumpkin pie and looking at the Biesemeyer splitter online.
>> Mikestools.com had the best price on that ( $140 instead of $201 at
>> Amazon). Hope you had a nice TG. Admittedly I did look into the garage
>
> I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit...
> I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that
> replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages
> you to actually use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.
>
> John
Thanks for the review of the product as well as the retailer!
Bill
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
>>> Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?
>>>
>> It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. Admittedly I did look into the
>> garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
>> the saw was okay...
>>
> Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.
>
Thanks Mike, please send money! No saw without a Christmas??? : )
Bill
woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/29/2013 12:09 PM, Bill wrote:
>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>
>>> Save lots of money for that Forrest WWII blade... You won't regret it.
>>> BTW first get a good blade and learn to use your saw.
>>>
>>> Once you are really familiar with it, then by the Forrest. Don't make
>>> mistakes with a blade like that... it's too nice.. but expensive too.
>>>
>>
>> Besides trying to saw through a nail, the fence, the miter guage, or
>> dropping the blade on the floor--what other mistakes would damage the
>> blade?
>> Of course, I'm not planning to start off with a $100+ blade for practice
>> anyway.
>>
> Until you become familiar your feed rate is a learning process too
> slow you burn the blade.
I knew you could burn the wood. I didn't think about "burning" the blade.
>
> Don't feed correctly you can bend the plate during a kick back.
Well, we are NOT going to have any kick back!
>
> Trust me until you are moderately familiar there are stupid things
> that can be done...
I don't doubt you for a second.
> But a reasonable blade on it, then upgrade it after making some
> sawdust. just my opinion, a soft recommendation.
Ask Lew, I'm not the sort that has lots of extra hundred dollar bills to
toss around! The saw came with a sharp blade on it, and with no wrench!
The best way to proceed seems evident. : )
Bill
>
> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
>
>
>
[email protected] wrote:
>>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
>
> I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
> stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
> works.
On my list too. I use roller stands also, and they work, but not as well as
an outfeed. Maybe soon...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> woodchucker wrote:
>>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
> I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
> stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
> works.
>
What do they call the ones that look like a series of long roller stands?
Sonny wrote:
> On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
>> The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.
> Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on the shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the saw's mobile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for the different tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's wrenchs and miter guage were not with the saw and no telling where the auction folks misplaced them, if they were ever there in the first place.
>
> Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have been stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.
>
> Sonny
I thought of that possibility this afternoon. I checked. No wrench, but
I learned that "those legs" really need to be under the extension
table. I came too close to tipping it. I figured out a plan to move the
saw from one base to the other, while I was out there. I will just
skooch it out of one base and set in right into the other. I will seek
a willing helper.
I suspect someone can help me with this question.
The saw came with 3 sizable black things--2 appears to be "plastic"
motor covers, and the other (metal) looks like a basin. There is a 4"
round dust port on the back (bottom) of the saw, so I assume the one
black motor cover is used when that dust port is being use. I assume
the motor cover with a rectangular slot/adaptor (4"?) is used for an
alternate form of dust collection. Then there is the rectangular "black
metal basin" that is at least 3" deep. It actually fits in the inside
of the mobile base, it doesn't make sense to me (to put it there, under
the base of the saw), but it fits. Can you tell me what it's for? I'm
guessing maybe it fits inside the saw to facilitate dust collection
somehow. I haven't done my own "due diligence" regarding these covers
so I apologize for that in advance. Maybe it goes "upside down" in the
bottom on the saw (sorry, I haven't already tried)?
I took another look at the OEM splitter. It appears to sit quite a bit
further back from the blade than the Biesmeyer (78-961) would. If I
understand correctly, one doesn't get the choice of using any blade
guard with the 78-961 splitter.
>> Excellent sense of humor. A very valuable tool.
>
>> Thank you. I think I got that from Lew.
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Yer shittin' me! Lew? A sense of humor? Lew - are you seeing
> this?...
---------------------------------------------
Yep.
There are times Bill gets it ya know<G>.
BTW, based on an unknown prior life of the saw, Karl's suggestion of a
total rebuild is the only way to insure there will be no surprises
down the road.
Lew
On Sun, 1 Dec 2013 09:15:27 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> It's hard enough to lift a corner of the saw with my bare hands that I
>> quit before I hurt something. I really have convinced myself that
>> it's heavier than it looks. I can slide it around just fine. And, it
>> take very little force on the end of the extension table to tip the
>> whole she-bang! Being properly fitted with it's sub-base into the
>> mobile base may improve it's stability. The legs will surely help
>> too! : )
>
>OK - so, moving slowly here... you don't want to try to lift the saw by hand
>at all. But - if you can tip it by exerting a little pressure to a wing,
>then use that to your advantage. Tip it so you can block the other side.
>You may then have to resort to a jack or a come-a-long to lift the low side,
>but the point is to use what forces come easy to you and then use tools to
>do the heavy lifting. If you can tip the saw enough by pushing on the
>extension table to get a block under the center of the saw, you can then
>rock back and forth sequentially to walk it up to your 6" desired height,
>with no real effort, and only a few minutes of time. Think of a
>teeter-totter. I don't know if I'm making sense for you in this...
+1
It's not that difficult at all. Just be sure your shims are stable.
Even if it slips off, you can "catch" it, using the same technique
above. Use what leverage you have, not brute force.
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 23:02:42 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Indeed, two of us moved the saw to my home from 5 miles away, on it's
>little mobile base.
I had this visual flash in my mind. Two guys pushing a saw on a
mobile base like a scooter for five miles.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 23:02:42 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Indeed, two of us moved the saw to my home from 5 miles away, on it's
>> little mobile base. A small hand winch pulled it right up some
>> ramps--I would not have wanted to stand behind the saw, while it was
>> going up or down, without the cable attached. As you know, it is heavy
>> enough to hurt you in a big way.
> How steep was the ramp? I used a U-Haul trailer to move mine, with
> some 10' 2x10s for ramps. I had no problems at all. U-Haul trailers
> are pretty low, though.
>
It was steep enough that we had to help it get over the "hump" at the
top, going up and down. I think that the most important part of its
transport was in securing it, and I can take no credit for that. Still,
I feel that luck "was" a factor (while making turns, etc.) If not, I
would not have wanted to have been "unlucky"! ; )
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 1 Dec 2013 09:15:27 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> It's hard enough to lift a corner of the saw with my bare hands that I
>>> quit before I hurt something. I really have convinced myself that
>>> it's heavier than it looks. I can slide it around just fine. And, it
>>> take very little force on the end of the extension table to tip the
>>> whole she-bang! Being properly fitted with it's sub-base into the
>>> mobile base may improve it's stability. The legs will surely help
>>> too! : )
>> OK - so, moving slowly here... you don't want to try to lift the saw by hand
>> at all. But - if you can tip it by exerting a little pressure to a wing,
>> then use that to your advantage. Tip it so you can block the other side.
>> You may then have to resort to a jack or a come-a-long to lift the low side,
>> but the point is to use what forces come easy to you and then use tools to
>> do the heavy lifting. If you can tip the saw enough by pushing on the
>> extension table to get a block under the center of the saw, you can then
>> rock back and forth sequentially to walk it up to your 6" desired height,
>> with no real effort, and only a few minutes of time. Think of a
>> teeter-totter. I don't know if I'm making sense for you in this...
> +1
>
> It's not that difficult at all.
Yes, I just need to get it out of the mobile base that it's in, first.
Maybe not a huge problem, but easier said than done--at least by myself.
> Just be sure your shims are stable.
> Even if it slips off, you can "catch" it, using the same technique
> above. Use what leverage you have, not brute force.
>
Bill wrote:
>
> Yes, I just need to get it out of the mobile base that it's in, first.
> Maybe not a huge problem, but easier said than done--at least by
> myself.
I understand that feeling Bill. But - analysis paralysis sets in when we
think about things too much and don't just put our hand to them. That
said - I think Karl really had the best advise - tear the saw down. That
will give you manageable size/weight pieces, and you really want to go
through all of the set up anyway, since you have no idea what condition the
saw is currently in. And - as Karl pointed out, you will know your saw much
better from having gone through that than any questions you can ask here.
It will cease to be a mysterious whirring dangerous thing and it will become
something you understand.
One thing you will learn over time - the more you fear doing things, the
more you will not do. The more you step up and give a go at it, the more
you will find yourself capable of doing. You really are not at risk of any
damage or injury if you just put your hand to it and watch how things are
going as you go at it. Go slow, and watch how things are unfolding. Don't
let your fears and your head get in the way - it happens to all of us, and
it simply limits us.
Give it a go Bill. You can do this just like you have accomplished previous
tasks once you got at them.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Yes, I just need to get it out of the mobile base that it's in, first.
>> Maybe not a huge problem, but easier said than done--at least by
>> myself.
> I understand that feeling Bill. But - analysis paralysis sets in when we
> think about things too much and don't just put our hand to them. That
> said - I think Karl really had the best advise - tear the saw down.
Between a few hours in front of the parts diagram and trips to the
garage, I've got a significantly better understanding of the workings of
the saw.
Last time, I tore down the walls of my shop (to be), they weren't up
again for 3 years! :) Let's try the engine hoist first. After I
get one, this becomes a 1 hour project, maybe, not including set-up.
Which I would have had to do anyway. I can tell from seeing all of his
equipment that the person who owned the saw before me was a craftsman.
Bill
> That
> will give you manageable size/weight pieces, and you really want to go
> through all of the set up anyway, since you have no idea what condition the
> saw is currently in. And - as Karl pointed out, you will know your saw much
> better from having gone through that than any questions you can ask here.
> It will cease to be a mysterious whirring dangerous thing and it will become
> something you understand.
>
> One thing you will learn over time - the more you fear doing things, the
> more you will not do. The more you step up and give a go at it, the more
> you will find yourself capable of doing. You really are not at risk of any
> damage or injury if you just put your hand to it and watch how things are
> going as you go at it. Go slow, and watch how things are unfolding. Don't
> let your fears and your head get in the way - it happens to all of us, and
> it simply limits us.
>
> Give it a go Bill. You can do this just like you have accomplished previous
> tasks once you got at them.
>
Bill wrote:
> Between a few hours in front of the parts diagram and trips to the
> garage, I've got a significantly better understanding of the workings
> of the saw.
>
Well - that's a good thing Bill. Happy for ya.
> Last time, I tore down the walls of my shop (to be), they weren't up
> again for 3 years! :) Let's try the engine hoist first.
Excellent sense of humor. A very valuable tool.
> After I
> get one, this becomes a 1 hour project, maybe, not including set-up.
> Which I would have had to do anyway. I can tell from seeing all of
> his equipment that the person who owned the saw before me was a
> craftsman.
Like I said in a previous post, I don't think an engine hoist is a bad idea
at all. It won't help you with the ideas behind Karl's comments, but it
will certainly get the job done. I can save the cost of the rental. You
can use mine for as long as you need for no charge - you just have to pick
it up in Syracuse and bring it back when you're done.... Just be prepared
to spend a couple of hours talking on both ends of those trips.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Between a few hours in front of the parts diagram and trips to the
>> garage, I've got a significantly better understanding of the workings
>> of the saw.
>>
> Well - that's a good thing Bill. Happy for ya.
The owner's manual is pretty good too! Though I haven't finished it.
>
>
>> Last time, I tore down the walls of my shop (to be), they weren't up
>> again for 3 years! :) Let's try the engine hoist first.
> Excellent sense of humor. A very valuable tool.
Thank you. I think I got that from Lew.
>> After I
>> get one, this becomes a 1 hour project, maybe, not including set-up.
>> Which I would have had to do anyway. I can tell from seeing all of
>> his equipment that the person who owned the saw before me was a
>> craftsman.
> Like I said in a previous post, I don't think an engine hoist is a bad idea
> at all. It won't help you with the ideas behind Karl's comments, but it
> will certainly get the job done. I can save the cost of the rental. You
> can use mine for as long as you need for no charge - you just have to pick
> it up in Syracuse and bring it back when you're done.... Just be prepared
> to spend a couple of hours talking on both ends of those trips.
>
>
Thanks Mike!
Cheers,
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Excellent sense of humor. A very valuable tool.
> Thank you. I think I got that from Lew.
>
Yer shittin' me! Lew? A sense of humor? Lew - are you seeing this?...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> BTW, based on an unknown prior life of the saw, Karl's suggestion of a
> total rebuild is the only way to insure there will be no surprises
> down the road. Lew
Let Bill try to cut a board first! He can even learn to set up the
fence and the saw. Rebuilding the saw reminds me of the English
woodcarver apprentices who were instructed, step-by-step over the course
of a year, to reduce a large piece of lumber into toothpicks. It sounds
like an admirable project to consider.
Bill
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 23:02:42 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 21:48:48 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and
>>>>>>> extendable "engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've
>>>>>>> got a few tools rental stores close by.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but
>>>>>> an engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare.
>>>>>> Likewise, you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the
>>>>>> table.
>>>>> Not a bad idea. If I had 4 of them, I might try that. Earlier I was
>>>>> considering whether I could use my twelve 4-foot Pony pipe clamps.
>>>>> Unfortunately, they aren't quite designed for that. But I have
>>>>> successfully used them to push things apart. Screwing 2 of the 4
>>>>> footers together was helpful in my deck step repair project last
>>>>> summer.
>>>> Hey Bill - it's quite possilbe I am not understanding your dilema very well.
>>>> How high do you have to lift your saw off the ground? The purpose of
>>>> lifting it is to unbolt the existing roller base and install a different
>>>> roller base?
>>> A little more. Whoever brought the saw to auction removed the 4" high,
>>> heavy steel sub-base from the bottom of the cabinet. It's the part that
>>> makes a recent Unisaw have a dark band at the bottom, and I'm pretty
>>> sure the it is very important structurally. And I also need to swap
>>> out the ad-hoc base the auctioneers stuck it in, and replace it in the
>>> double-wide one it belongs in (for 52" Unisaws). I basically need about
>>> 6" of height to do all of the above, and appropriate hardware (which
>>> I'll call the Delta service center for on Monday).
>>>
>>>
>>>> You can tip the saw and get one end off the ground by (how
>>>> much?), before you feel insecure with the tip angle? Have you posted any
>>>> pictures of your new saw on your web site?
>>> Definitely not ready for pictures yet! I get some time off from work in
>>> about 2 weeks. Most likely that's when this project will get completed.
>>>
>>> It's hard enough to lift a corner of the saw with my bare hands that I
>>> quit before I hurt something. I really have convinced myself that it's
>>> heavier than it looks. I can slide it around just fine. And, it take
>>> very little force on the end of the extension table to tip the whole
>>> she-bang! Being properly fitted with it's sub-base into the mobile base
>>> may improve it's stability. The legs will surely help too! : )
>>>
>> Don't lift the saw, push the top sideways (to slide something under
>> the side). Use leverage, not muscle.
>I will, but Mike asked me "How much I could tip it", and the answer is
>not enough to do something constructive. With a helper, the answer
>might be quite different.
I could easily tilt mine enough to get a board underneath. It's been
a while but I may have done it 3/4" at a time. It was no big deal. It
was never in danger of tipping. At 6" high (your needs, IIRC), you
will have to make sure it doesn't come off any shims, though.
>Indeed, two of us moved the saw to my home from 5 miles away, on it's
>little mobile base. A small hand winch pulled it right up some
>ramps--I would not have wanted to stand behind the saw, while it was
>going up or down, without the cable attached. As you know, it is heavy
>enough to hurt you in a big way.
How steep was the ramp? I used a U-Haul trailer to move mine, with
some 10' 2x10s for ramps. I had no problems at all. U-Haul trailers
are pretty low, though.
Bill wrote:
>
> I suspect someone can help me with this question.
> The saw came with 3 sizable black things--
Actually, it came with 4. The motor cover, a square metal frame like
thing, 4" high, as I wrote earlier it fits in the base (but it's not
shaped like a basin). I'll look at the manual for the mobile base.
The other 2 black plastic parts may be dust collection parts belonging
to another tool (shaper or planer?), unless they possibly fit inside the
saw (I doubt it). I apologize for the inaccuracies in my earlier
description. According to the manual, and from all appearances, I'll
require two wrenches for blade changes.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 21:07:29 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> It's not the money, I suppose, rather the sucker prices that piss me
>>> off ("but buy *NOW* and we'll include a SECOND free for just shipping
>>> and handling").
>>
>> Ha, Ha. Yeah, I see more and more sucker pricing all the time (how
>> about car prices?)
> How so? I bought two, six months ago. It was pretty straight
> forward. The price I paid was right on the invoice. Well, that price
> minus some $11,000 (also advertised).
>
>> Unfortunately for us, I guess it confirms that
>> there are a lot of suckers out there!
> I'll wait until I find someone with "free" (included) shipping and a
> reasonable price.
Yes, but the suckers make it tough on the rest of us. I feel that when
I step on any car let (usually looking for "pre-owned"), that I need to
convince the salesperson that I'm "not an idiot". I think they must
make a lot of commission taking advantage of idiots.
BTW, congratulations on your two new cars!
Bill
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 21:07:29 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> It's not the money, I suppose, rather the sucker prices that piss me
>> off ("but buy *NOW* and we'll include a SECOND free for just shipping
>> and handling").
>
>
>Ha, Ha. Yeah, I see more and more sucker pricing all the time (how
>about car prices?)
How so? I bought two, six months ago. It was pretty straight
forward. The price I paid was right on the invoice. Well, that price
minus some $11,000 (also advertised).
>Unfortunately for us, I guess it confirms that
>there are a lot of suckers out there!
I'll wait until I find someone with "free" (included) shipping and a
reasonable price.
Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>>
>> I suspect someone can help me with this question.
>> The saw came with 3 sizable black things--
> Actually, it came with 4. The motor cover, a square metal frame like
> thing, 4" high, as I wrote earlier it fits in the base (but it's not
> shaped like a basin).
I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my
saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious!
On Sun, 01 Dec 2013 00:12:37 -0500, Ed Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 23:02:42 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Indeed, two of us moved the saw to my home from 5 miles away, on it's
>>little mobile base.
>
>I had this visual flash in my mind. Two guys pushing a saw on a
>mobile base like a scooter for five miles.
It's Bill, here, not Fred. ;-)
On Sun, 1 Dec 2013 16:41:36 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> Yes, I just need to get it out of the mobile base that it's in, first.
>> Maybe not a huge problem, but easier said than done--at least by
>> myself.
>
>I understand that feeling Bill. But - analysis paralysis sets in when we
>think about things too much and don't just put our hand to them. That
>said - I think Karl really had the best advise - tear the saw down. That
>will give you manageable size/weight pieces, and you really want to go
>through all of the set up anyway, since you have no idea what condition the
>saw is currently in. And - as Karl pointed out, you will know your saw much
>better from having gone through that than any questions you can ask here.
>It will cease to be a mysterious whirring dangerous thing and it will become
>something you understand.
+1, after thinking about it. I was dealing with a new saw. Karl
makes some excellent points, regarding a saw of unknown origins. It'll
give a chance to clean up any rust on the inside/bottom, too.
>One thing you will learn over time - the more you fear doing things, the
>more you will not do. The more you step up and give a go at it, the more
>you will find yourself capable of doing. You really are not at risk of any
>damage or injury if you just put your hand to it and watch how things are
>going as you go at it. Go slow, and watch how things are unfolding. Don't
>let your fears and your head get in the way - it happens to all of us, and
>it simply limits us.
>Give it a go Bill. You can do this just like you have accomplished previous
>tasks once you got at them.
Right. Learn from your successes, too.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 1 Dec 2013 16:41:36 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, I just need to get it out of the mobile base that it's in, first.
>>> Maybe not a huge problem, but easier said than done--at least by
>>> myself.
>> I understand that feeling Bill. But - analysis paralysis sets in when we
>> think about things too much and don't just put our hand to them. That
>> said - I think Karl really had the best advise - tear the saw down. That
>> will give you manageable size/weight pieces, and you really want to go
>> through all of the set up anyway, since you have no idea what condition the
>> saw is currently in. And - as Karl pointed out, you will know your saw much
>> better from having gone through that than any questions you can ask here.
>> It will cease to be a mysterious whirring dangerous thing and it will become
>> something you understand.
> +1, after thinking about it. I was dealing with a new saw. Karl
> makes some excellent points, regarding a saw of unknown origins. It'll
> give a chance to clean up any rust on the inside/bottom, too.
A few of those bolts appear rusty, and they will break and strip too.
The inside is almost as smooth and clean as the outside. To whatever
degree parts like the rails are imperfect, taking it apart and putting
it back together won't make them better. There is some wisdom to the
expression, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Trust that I will do what
I need to do to get the saw in proper running order. I appreciate the
opportunity to keep you posted of my (really "our") progress!
Cheers,
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> I suspect someone can help me with this question.
>>> The saw came with 3 sizable black things--
>> Actually, it came with 4. The motor cover, a square metal frame like
>> thing, 4" high, as I wrote earlier it fits in the base (but it's not
>> shaped like a basin).
>
> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my
> saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious!
>
>
>
Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be
bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
(5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the hex
socket head makes any difference. Installation may be tricky. I decided
a few minutes ago that trying to move the saw around on it's mobile base
by myself was something I should not continue doing. The saw is heavier
than it looks, and in its current position, it's only a little more
stable than not.
On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 22:23:16 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Tue, 03 Dec 2013 21:07:29 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>> It's not the money, I suppose, rather the sucker prices that piss me
>>>> off ("but buy *NOW* and we'll include a SECOND free for just shipping
>>>> and handling").
>>>
>>> Ha, Ha. Yeah, I see more and more sucker pricing all the time (how
>>> about car prices?)
>> How so? I bought two, six months ago. It was pretty straight
>> forward. The price I paid was right on the invoice. Well, that price
>> minus some $11,000 (also advertised).
>>
>>> Unfortunately for us, I guess it confirms that
>>> there are a lot of suckers out there!
>> I'll wait until I find someone with "free" (included) shipping and a
>> reasonable price.
>
>Yes, but the suckers make it tough on the rest of us. I feel that when
>I step on any car let (usually looking for "pre-owned"), that I need to
>convince the salesperson that I'm "not an idiot". I think they must
>make a lot of commission taking advantage of idiots.
There's a reason that used car salesmen are the only occupation that
has polls lower than politicians. ;-) Actually, I've known some very
good ones.
>BTW, congratulations on your two new cars!
The spring mounts in my Ranger rotted out (I'd probably been diving
with detached rear springs for a year), so I had to do something.
There were a few used Rangers around but they wanted $22K for a four
year old one with 20K miles. I got a new F150 (XLT) for $25K (11K
less than sticker). It didn't seem like there was much choice.
When they were delivering the truck they mentioned that they had just
received a Mustang Convertible in the same color. The words out of my
mouth were "oh, no...". Well, we had planned on buying one in the
Spring (when our house closes). She decided she wanted it now. ;-)
We've been driving junk for quite a while and decided it was time to
live a little. ;-)
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 23:47:46 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 23:02:42 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Indeed, two of us moved the saw to my home from 5 miles away, on it's
>>> little mobile base. A small hand winch pulled it right up some
>>> ramps--I would not have wanted to stand behind the saw, while it was
>>> going up or down, without the cable attached. As you know, it is heavy
>>> enough to hurt you in a big way.
>> How steep was the ramp? I used a U-Haul trailer to move mine, with
>> some 10' 2x10s for ramps. I had no problems at all. U-Haul trailers
>> are pretty low, though.
>>
>It was steep enough that we had to help it get over the "hump" at the
>top, going up and down. I think that the most important part of its
>transport was in securing it, and I can take no credit for that. Still,
>I feel that luck "was" a factor (while making turns, etc.) If not, I
>would not have wanted to have been "unlucky"! ; )
I think you're worrying too much. The center of gravity has to shift
outside the column defined by the base for it to become unstable. The
top is heavy, to be sure, but the rest is pretty heavy, too. Even if
the center of mass were the top, the center of the top would have to
be out over the base for it to tip over. That's a pretty serious
angle.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
>> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
>> hex socket head makes any difference.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> What you are describing doesn't exist.
>
> You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
> head cap screws.
>
> They are two completely different fasteners.
The parts diagram indicates (#83) 5/16-18 x 3/4" HEX SOC HD SCREW and
also (#88) 5/16-18 FLANGE NUT.
But when I locate the part number (#83) in the list on the right side of
the page, it says "Carriage Bolt". So far, I have not seen the entry
point for this connector. I did locate a round hole where it exits the
bottom of the cabinet into the sub-base. The sub-base has round holes
(7/16" in diameter). I will need a vacuum and daylight to learn more.
Thank you for observing the inconsistency in my post! Here is a link to
the diagram I referred to (there is a link to "zoom in" at the top of
the page)
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/delta/36-841
>
> A 5/16"-18 flanged nut will fit either one.
>
> Lew
>
>
Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
>>> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
>>> hex socket head makes any difference.
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> What you are describing doesn't exist.
>>
>> You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
>> head cap screws.
>>
>> They are two completely different fasteners.
>
> The parts diagram indicates (#83) 5/16-18 x 3/4" HEX SOC HD SCREW and
> also (#88) 5/16-18 FLANGE NUT.
I saw a substitute for this part (used in a similar way on a bandsaw
base) called "HEX SOC SET SCR"
The notion of using a screw with a nut seems foreign to me, but
obviously I don't know the lingo.
>
> But when I locate the part number (#83) in the list on the right side
> of the page, it says "Carriage Bolt". So far, I have not seen the
> entry point for this connector. I did locate a round hole where it
> exits the bottom of the cabinet into the sub-base. The sub-base has
> round holes (7/16" in diameter). I will need a vacuum and daylight to
> learn more. Thank you for observing the inconsistency in my post!
> Here is a link to the diagram I referred to (there is a link to "zoom
> in" at the top of the page)
>
> http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/delta/36-841
>
>>
>> A 5/16"-18 flanged nut will fit either one.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
Bill wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
>>> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
>>> hex socket head makes any difference.
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> What you are describing doesn't exist.
>>
>> You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
>> head cap screws.
>>
>> They are two completely different fasteners.
>
> The parts diagram indicates (#83) 5/16-18 x 3/4" HEX SOC HD SCREW and
> also (#88) 5/16-18 FLANGE NUT.
>
> But when I locate the part number (#83) in the list on the right side
> of the page, it says "Carriage Bolt". So far, I have not seen the
> entry point for this connector. I did locate a round hole where it
> exits the bottom of the cabinet into the sub-base. The sub-base has
> round holes (7/16" in diameter). I will need a vacuum and daylight to
> learn more. Thank you for observing the inconsistency in my post!
> Here is a link to the diagram I referred to (there is a link to "zoom
> in" at the top of the page)
>
> http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/delta/36-841
Here is another link, as you may well-understand, it says: "standard
socket head screw provides maxium tensile strength"
http://www.grainger.com/category/socket-head-cap-screws/screws/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8n7
>
>>
>> A 5/16"-18 flanged nut will fit either one.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
[email protected] wrote:
>>
>> A rare earth magnet or two outside the dust port might work better...
>
> Now, *that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway. ;-)
Heck - they sell goose neck magnets about 18" long - or longer, every day.
Mechanics have used these things for decades.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
woodchucker wrote:
> Bill, just thought of a recommendation as I was changing my blade.
>
> Take your arbor washer off, put a piece of 600 paper on your table top.
> Rub the arbor washer on the paper until your get a nice even pattern.
I wrote that down for when I get arbor wrenches. Thanks!
Bill
>
> Sometimes the Delta washers are rough machined. This will give you a
> nice contact point to the blade.
>
> I did mine years ago, I was surprised how out it was.
>
>
woodchucker wrote:
>
>> I suspect someone can help me with this question.
>> The saw came with 3 sizable black things--2 appears to be "plastic"
>> motor covers, and the other (metal) looks like ....
> Pics Bill, will be better
Yes, I thought of that. I figured out that the important metal one is
the sub-base of cabinet of the saw!
Sonny, is his earlier two posts this morning has devised a strategy to
get it back on!
Sonny wrote:
> On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my > saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >
>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the saw, in order to do the work needed.
>
> Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or similar corner bracing) to wrap around the saw. Make the support frame the height of the tabletop. Lever the saw's tabletop up *onto the support, so that the tabletop rests on the *support frame. The saw being supported by the table top is no problem. Get the saw off the floor and high enough to do the base frame installation and to get the mobile base under neath. When done, use the levering method to lower the saw onto the mobile base.
>
> *During the upward levering process, shim the raising with 2X4s, as it goes up, across the span of the 3 sided support framing. The tabletop will actually be resting on the crossing 2X4 shims, not on the original support frame. To lower the saw onto the mobile base, reverse the (raising) shimming procedure.
>
> Sonny
>
That's very clever solution. I slept on the problem all night and only
deduced that the top would have to come off. I like your idea better. I
will create a SketchUp drawing of my boxed/framed support for your
edification before I build the structure.
Will a "crow bar" work for the incremental levering? Or is that asking
too much from a crowbar?
Bill
Sonny wrote:
> On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my > saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >
>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the saw, in order to do the work needed.
>
> Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or similar corner bracing) to wrap around the saw.
Why 3-sided instead of 4-sided? The shims would go on the floor-side,
right? In my mind, if 3-sided, one beam would cross the middle of the
top, next to the cabinet, and the angle which "is opposite that side" of
the triangle would be on the other side of the cabinet, lying halfway
between the front and the back of the saw. To accommodate the sub-base
and the mobile base, it will need to be raised about 6 or 7 inches. Any
risk of "tipping" with this 3-sided configuration? I am tempted to use
doubled twobyfours for all structural parts. Overkill?
> Make the support frame the height of the tabletop. Lever the saw's tabletop up *onto the support, so that the tabletop rests on the *support frame. The saw being supported by the table top is no problem. Get the saw off the floor and high enough to do the base frame installation and to get the mobile base under neath. When done, use the levering method to lower the saw onto the mobile base.
>
> *During the upward levering process, shim the raising with 2X4s, as it goes up, across the span of the 3 sided support framing. The tabletop will actually be resting on the crossing 2X4 shims, not on the original support frame. To lower the saw onto the mobile base, reverse the (raising) shimming procedure.
>
> Sonny
>
On Sun, 01 Dec 2013 18:45:02 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Sun, 1 Dec 2013 16:41:36 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes, I just need to get it out of the mobile base that it's in, first.
>>>> Maybe not a huge problem, but easier said than done--at least by
>>>> myself.
>>> I understand that feeling Bill. But - analysis paralysis sets in when we
>>> think about things too much and don't just put our hand to them. That
>>> said - I think Karl really had the best advise - tear the saw down. That
>>> will give you manageable size/weight pieces, and you really want to go
>>> through all of the set up anyway, since you have no idea what condition the
>>> saw is currently in. And - as Karl pointed out, you will know your saw much
>>> better from having gone through that than any questions you can ask here.
>>> It will cease to be a mysterious whirring dangerous thing and it will become
>>> something you understand.
>> +1, after thinking about it. I was dealing with a new saw. Karl
>> makes some excellent points, regarding a saw of unknown origins. It'll
>> give a chance to clean up any rust on the inside/bottom, too.
>
>A few of those bolts appear rusty, and they will break and strip too.
>The inside is almost as smooth and clean as the outside.
If they are stripped or rusted beyond repair, a Dremel rotary tool is
the solution. It's (usually) easy to cut the bolt, or even split the
nut with a cutoff disk.
> To whatever
>degree parts like the rails are imperfect, taking it apart and putting
>it back together won't make them better.
Perhaps not, but the rails come off very easily. Just don't
overtighten them, when you put them back on.
>There is some wisdom to the
>expression, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Sure, but the contrapositive is also true; "if it's broke, it's gotta
be fixed". ;-)
>Trust that I will do what
>I need to do to get the saw in proper running order. I appreciate the
>opportunity to keep you posted of my (really "our") progress!
Have fun. I know you're going to be itching for Spring! I know it
was the same for me, when I had my shop in the garage (though the
seasons were reversed).
Bill wrote:
> Sonny wrote:
>> On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of
>>>>> my > saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >
>>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be
>>>> bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the
>> saw, in order to do the work needed.
>>
>> Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or
>> similar corner bracing) to wrap around the saw.
> Why 3-sided instead of 4-sided? The shims would go on the floor-side,
> right? In my mind, if 3-sided, one beam would cross the middle of the
> top, next to the cabinet, and the angle which "is opposite that side"
> of the triangle would be on the other side of the cabinet, lying
> halfway between the front and the back of the saw. To accommodate the
> sub-base and the mobile base, it will need to be raised about 6 or 7
> inches. Any risk of "tipping" with this 3-sided configuration? I am
> tempted to use doubled twobyfours for all structural parts. Overkill?
My other observation is that the lifting would occur underneath each of
the cast iron wings--not the part of the main table directly over the
cabinet . I'm just pointing this out in case it is of concern. The
"shear strength" of the screws holding the wings to the table will get a
good test, huh? Actually, thinking about this helps me understand why a
triangular design might be better. It may better balance the stress
exerted on these screws during the "shimming" process.
>
>> Make the support frame the height of the tabletop. Lever the
>> saw's tabletop up *onto the support, so that the tabletop rests on
>> the *support frame. The saw being supported by the table top is no
>> problem. Get the saw off the floor and high enough to do the base
>> frame installation and to get the mobile base under neath. When
>> done, use the levering method to lower the saw onto the mobile base.
>>
>> *During the upward levering process, shim the raising with 2X4s, as
>> it goes up, across the span of the 3 sided support framing. The
>> tabletop will actually be resting on the crossing 2X4 shims, not on
>> the original support frame. To lower the saw onto the mobile base,
>> reverse the (raising) shimming procedure.
>>
>> Sonny
>>
>
>> Sonny wrote:
>>> On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of
>>>>>> my > saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >
>>>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be
>>>>> bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>>> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the
>>> saw, in order to do the work needed.
>>>
>>> Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or
>>> similar corner bracing) to wrap around the saw.
>>
Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and extendable
"engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've got a few tools
rental stores close by.
Bill
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 16:18:52 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Sonny wrote:
>>> On Saturday, November 30, 2013 12:04:16 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
>>>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my > saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious! >
>>>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>>> Even with an assistant, you may find it difficult to manipulate the saw, in order to do the work needed.
>>>
>>> Build a 3 sided boxed/framed support (with 2X4s, triangle ply or similar corner bracing) to wrap around the saw. Make the support frame the height of the tabletop. Lever the saw's tabletop up *onto the support, so that the tabletop rests on the *support frame. The saw being supported by the table top is no problem. Get the saw off the floor and high enough to do the base frame installation and to get the mobile base under neath. When done, use the levering method to lower the saw onto the mobile base.
>>>
>>> *During the upward levering process, shim the raising with 2X4s, as it goes up, across the span of the 3 sided support framing. The tabletop will actually be resting on the crossing 2X4 shims, not on the original support frame. To lower the saw onto the mobile base, reverse the (raising) shimming procedure.
>>>
>>> Sonny
>>>
>> That's very clever solution. I slept on the problem all night and only
>> deduced that the top would have to come off. I like your idea better. I
>> will create a SketchUp drawing of my boxed/framed support for your
>> edification before I build the structure.
>>
>> Will a "crow bar" work for the incremental levering? Or is that asking
>> too much from a crowbar?
> A crowbar should work fine but I'd be worried about buggering up the
> case, allowing rust. I just used 2x4s laid flat, then "walked" the
> saw onto them, adding 2x4s until I got it to the height I wanted.
I feel fortunate I have not (evidently) encountered any problems already
without the heavy steel sub-base on the saw. Because it's currently
lacking that, I'm not going to "walk/rock it", but that's a clever
approach.
Bill wrote:
> Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and extendable
> "engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've got a few
> tools rental stores close by.
>
I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but an
engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare. Likewise,
you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the table.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and extendable
>> "engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've got a few
>> tools rental stores close by.
>>
> I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but an
> engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare. Likewise,
> you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the table.
>
Not a bad idea. If I had 4 of them, I might try that. Earlier I was
considering whether I could use my twelve 4-foot Pony pipe clamps.
Unfortunately, they aren't quite designed for that. But I have
successfully used them to push things apart. Screwing 2 of the 4
footers together was helpful in my deck step repair project last summer.
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but
>> an engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare.
>> Likewise, you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the
>> table.
>
> Not a bad idea. If I had 4 of them, I might try that. Earlier I was
> considering whether I could use my twelve 4-foot Pony pipe clamps.
> Unfortunately, they aren't quite designed for that. But I have
> successfully used them to push things apart. Screwing 2 of the 4
> footers together was helpful in my deck step repair project last
> summer.
You could easily do it with just one bottle jack. Put it in the center
(front to back) of one side of the table with a 2x4 on top of the jack,
spanning the table. Lift it as far as it will go and block it. Go to the
other side and do the same. Many of us have faced similar challenges in the
past and these ideas are proven to work. Though they may seem a little
daunting to the unitiated.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and
>>> extendable "engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've
>>> got a few tools rental stores close by.
>>>
>> I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but
>> an engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare.
>> Likewise, you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the
>> table.
>
> Not a bad idea. If I had 4 of them, I might try that. Earlier I was
> considering whether I could use my twelve 4-foot Pony pipe clamps.
> Unfortunately, they aren't quite designed for that. But I have
> successfully used them to push things apart. Screwing 2 of the 4
> footers together was helpful in my deck step repair project last
> summer.
Hey Bill - it's quite possilbe I am not understanding your dilema very well.
How high do you have to lift your saw off the ground? The purpose of
lifting it is to unbolt the existing roller base and install a different
roller base? You can tip the saw and get one end off the ground by (how
much?), before you feel insecure with the tip angle? Have you posted any
pictures of your new saw on your web site?
I have some different ideas but they may or may not apply. Answers to the
questions above might help offer better suggestions.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Sonny, Though I've never used one, maybe a collapsible and
>>>> extendable "engine lift" w/straps is what is called for here? I've
>>>> got a few tools rental stores close by.
>>>>
>>> I'm not commenting on whether it's the preferred approach Bill, but
>>> an engine hoist would certainly do the job with capacity to spare.
>>> Likewise, you could probably use a bottle jack on blocking under the
>>> table.
>> Not a bad idea. If I had 4 of them, I might try that. Earlier I was
>> considering whether I could use my twelve 4-foot Pony pipe clamps.
>> Unfortunately, they aren't quite designed for that. But I have
>> successfully used them to push things apart. Screwing 2 of the 4
>> footers together was helpful in my deck step repair project last
>> summer.
> Hey Bill - it's quite possilbe I am not understanding your dilema very well.
> How high do you have to lift your saw off the ground? The purpose of
> lifting it is to unbolt the existing roller base and install a different
> roller base?
A little more. Whoever brought the saw to auction removed the 4" high,
heavy steel sub-base from the bottom of the cabinet. It's the part that
makes a recent Unisaw have a dark band at the bottom, and I'm pretty
sure the it is very important structurally. And I also need to swap
out the ad-hoc base the auctioneers stuck it in, and replace it in the
double-wide one it belongs in (for 52" Unisaws). I basically need about
6" of height to do all of the above, and appropriate hardware (which
I'll call the Delta service center for on Monday).
> You can tip the saw and get one end off the ground by (how
> much?), before you feel insecure with the tip angle? Have you posted any
> pictures of your new saw on your web site?
Definitely not ready for pictures yet! I get some time off from work in
about 2 weeks. Most likely that's when this project will get completed.
It's hard enough to lift a corner of the saw with my bare hands that I
quit before I hurt something. I really have convinced myself that it's
heavier than it looks. I can slide it around just fine. And, it take
very little force on the end of the extension table to tip the whole
she-bang! Being properly fitted with it's sub-base into the mobile base
may improve it's stability. The legs will surely help too! : )
Bill
>
> I have some different ideas but they may or may not apply. Answers to the
> questions above might help offer better suggestions.
>
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> You could easily do it with just one bottle jack. Put it in the
>> center (front to back) of one side of the table with a 2x4 on top of
>> the jack, spanning the table. Lift it as far as it will go and
>> block it. Go to the other side and do the same. Many of us have
>> faced similar challenges in the past and these ideas are proven to
>> work. Though they may seem a little daunting to the unitiated.
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Basic tools to move heavy loads:
>
> * One (1) ton bottle jack
> * One (1) ton "Come-A-Long
> * ONE "Universal house key", AKA: Spring steel pry bar in the shape of
> a question mark.
> * 2 lb Drill hammer
What do you do with the hammer drill--make places to insert hooks?
>
> * Lots of shim packs.
>
Most important rule of all:
You move to the load, not the other way around.
I can see why it's important to keep that in mind!
Bill
>
>
> Lew
>
>
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> >> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> You could easily do it with just one bottle jack. Put it in the
>>>> center (front to back) of one side of the table with a 2x4 on top
>>>> of
>>>> the jack, spanning the table. Lift it as far as it will go and
>>>> block it. Go to the other side and do the same. Many of us have
>>>> faced similar challenges in the past and these ideas are proven to
>>>> work. Though they may seem a little daunting to the unitiated.
>>> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>>> Basic tools to move heavy loads:
>>>
>>> * One (1) ton bottle jack
>>> * One (1) ton "Come-A-Long
>>> * ONE "Universal house key", AKA: Spring steel pry bar in the shape
>>> of
>>> a question mark.
>>> * 2 lb Drill hammer
> -----------------------------------------------------
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> What do you do with the hammer drill--make places to insert hooks?
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Try working without one, you'll answer your own question in a hurry.
>
> Lew
>
I made a hole in brick years ago, where I should have used one. Burned
up an electric drill too. That's my experience thus far with hammer
drills. I guess maybe I don't know what I'm missing--that's surely the
way it was with "impact drivers".
Bill wrote:
>
> It's hard enough to lift a corner of the saw with my bare hands that I
> quit before I hurt something. I really have convinced myself that
> it's heavier than it looks. I can slide it around just fine. And, it
> take very little force on the end of the extension table to tip the
> whole she-bang! Being properly fitted with it's sub-base into the
> mobile base may improve it's stability. The legs will surely help
> too! : )
OK - so, moving slowly here... you don't want to try to lift the saw by hand
at all. But - if you can tip it by exerting a little pressure to a wing,
then use that to your advantage. Tip it so you can block the other side.
You may then have to resort to a jack or a come-a-long to lift the low side,
but the point is to use what forces come easy to you and then use tools to
do the heavy lifting. If you can tip the saw enough by pushing on the
extension table to get a block under the center of the saw, you can then
rock back and forth sequentially to walk it up to your 6" desired height,
with no real effort, and only a few minutes of time. Think of a
teeter-totter. I don't know if I'm making sense for you in this...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my saw.
>> Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious!
>>
>>
>>
> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered
> to reattach it should be beaten!!!
The bottom is often taken off so the surface of the saw is not higher when
the machine is raised up to put on a mobile base.
Jim in NC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 12/2/2013 7:33 AM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my
>>> saw. Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be
>> bothered to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>
> The bottom is often taken off so the surface of the saw is not higher
> when the machine is raised up to put on a mobile base.
>
> Jim in NC
>
Well, that makes me worry less that the saw is not adequately supported.
From appearances, it looks like the sub-base adds structural support
(and regardless of whether it does or not, this is not inconsistent with
your observation). Thanks!
Bill
On 12/2/2013 10:58 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 2 Dec 2013 07:33:41 -0500, "Morgans"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>>>> I'm slowly realizing that this must be the bottom of the base of my saw.
>>>> Someone must have taken it off! Goodness-gratious!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Whoever removed the sub-base from my cabinet saw, and couldn't be bothered
>>> to reattach it should be beaten!!!
>>
>> The bottom is often taken off so the surface of the saw is not higher when
>> the machine is raised up to put on a mobile base.
>
> Is an inch (maybe) that important?
>
Well, the sub-base is exactly 4" high, and the bottom of the stand maybe
1" off of the ground, so there would be a 3" drop by the modification,
as described.
Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
>>>> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
>>>> hex socket head makes any difference.
>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> What you are describing doesn't exist.
>>>
>>> You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
>>> head cap screws.
>>>
>>> They are two completely different fasteners.
>>
>> The parts diagram indicates (#83) 5/16-18 x 3/4" HEX SOC HD SCREW
>> and also (#88) 5/16-18 FLANGE NUT.
>>
>> But when I locate the part number (#83) in the list on the right side
>> of the page, it says "Carriage Bolt".
I tipped the saw by the long rails (that's "the ticket"...) and
recovered 3 of the 4 bolts so far--one has to reach underneath the
bottom of the saw, 3 or 4 inches beyond a ledge, to get at them.
They are marked 307A MUL, which means, from my brief reading, that they
conform to the 307A Standard, and are of Grade 8.8. Except for the
higher grade, they are carriage bolts. They shine like chrome. A
couple of them are knarled enough that I won't hesitate to replace
them. That's just FYI; everything under control here.
Bill
woodchucker wrote:
> On 12/2/2013 10:49 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> The parts diagram says I need some hex socket hd carriage bolts
>>>>>> (5/16-18x 3/4") and matching flanged nuts, but I don't suppose the
>>>>>> hex socket head makes any difference.
>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> What you are describing doesn't exist.
>>>>>
>>>>> You have either 5/16"-18 carriage bolts OR you have 5/16"-18 socket
>>>>> head cap screws.
>>>>>
>>>>> They are two completely different fasteners.
>>>>
>>>> The parts diagram indicates (#83) 5/16-18 x 3/4" HEX SOC HD SCREW
>>>> and also (#88) 5/16-18 FLANGE NUT.
>>>>
>>>> But when I locate the part number (#83) in the list on the right side
>>>> of the page, it says "Carriage Bolt".
>>
>> I tipped the saw by the long rails (that's "the ticket"...) and
>> recovered 3 of the 4 bolts so far--one has to reach underneath the
>> bottom of the saw, 3 or 4 inches beyond a ledge, to get at them.
>>
>> They are marked 307A MUL, which means, from my brief reading, that they
>> conform to the 307A Standard, and are of Grade 8.8. Except for the
>> higher grade, they are carriage bolts. They shine like chrome. A
>> couple of them are knarled enough that I won't hesitate to replace
>> them. That's just FYI; everything under control here.
>>
>> Bill
> I can't see the need for graded bolts underneath your saw.
These go between the "sub-base" and the rest of the cabinet. Not at the
mobile base. They are important in the sense that if they were to
break, the saw WOULD easily tip. I have ordered 2 new ones (all they
had in stock) , 2 of the old ones appear to be in good shape. I will
seek suitable nuts at the BORG. I ordered some arbor wrenches while I
was at it. In the meantime, I'll start collecting plywood scraps to help
with my leveraging.
> Not for the bottom pan, or for mounting to the mobile base.
> The only place I see a graded bolt being needed is for arbor assembly,
> and motor mount assembly.
>
> Possibly for the top to the base... but not really, there's not a lot
> of stress there.
>
> if you can't find a graded carriage bolt a regular carriage bolt will do.
>
> My two cents... do with it what you will.
>
>
Bill wrote:
> woodchucker wrote:
>> I can't see the need for graded bolts underneath your saw.
> These go between the "sub-base" and the rest of the cabinet. Not at
> the mobile base. They are important in the sense that if they were to
> break, the saw WOULD easily tip. I have ordered 2 new ones (all they
> had in stock) , 2 of the old ones appear to be in good shape. I will
> seek suitable nuts at the BORG. I ordered some arbor wrenches while I
> was at it. In the meantime, I'll start collecting plywood scraps to
> help with my leveraging.
>
Well - we each have to do what makes us comfortable but I have to side with
Jeff on this Bill. There are no stresses on those bolts that require a
hardened bolt. A basic grade 3 would suffice. But - you really have to go
with what makes you comfortable. My point is only that it's not necessary
for a hardened bolt for that connection. Your worry about the bolt breaking
is unfounded, unless you were to severely over-torque the nut when
tightening it down. Severely! But then again, you can break a hardened
bolt more easily than you might imagine, as well.
One thing is for sure - as long as you don't play superman when you torque
down the nuts, you'll be just fine.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> woodchucker wrote:
>>> I can't see the need for graded bolts underneath your saw.
>> These go between the "sub-base" and the rest of the cabinet. Not at
>> the mobile base. They are important in the sense that if they were to
>> break, the saw WOULD easily tip. I have ordered 2 new ones (all they
>> had in stock) , 2 of the old ones appear to be in good shape. I will
>> seek suitable nuts at the BORG. I ordered some arbor wrenches while I
>> was at it. In the meantime, I'll start collecting plywood scraps to
>> help with my leveraging.
>>
> Well - we each have to do what makes us comfortable but I have to side with
> Jeff on this Bill. There are no stresses on those bolts that require a
> hardened bolt. A basic grade 3 would suffice. But - you really have to go
> with what makes you comfortable.
The 85 cents for each of the 2 bolts didn't bother me. The $19.00 for
the pair of arbor wrenches wasn't so awful. It was the $9.00 shipping!
The company's offering the Biesemeyer splitter offer free shipping--but
they will have to wait their turn! ; )
> My point is only that it's not necessary
> for a hardened bolt for that connection. Your worry about the bolt breaking
> is unfounded, unless you were to severely over-torque the nut when
> tightening it down. Severely! But then again, you can break a hardened
> bolt more easily than you might imagine, as well.
>
> One thing is for sure - as long as you don't play superman when you torque
> down the nuts, you'll be just fine.
>
On 30 Nov 2013 03:35:07 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of
>> the saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade,
>> decreases your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by
>> about 50%.
>>
>> Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
>>
>
>A large mesh screen could be put over the dust collection port to keep
>the nut and washer from going down into the hose. A 1/2" or 3/4" mesh
>would catch the nut and washer while allowing most sawdust to pass
>through freely.
I don't think that's a good plan. Slivers of wood would get stuck and
create a dam for the dust. I've never had the nut enter the hose
anyway. I guess it's because I turn the DC off when changing blades.
;-)
>It's probably more trouble than it's worth, especially since the dropped
>part usually winds up in the hose but I'm willing to sell prototypes to
>anyone with excess cash.
>
>A rare earth magnet or two outside the dust port might work better...
Now, *that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway. ;-)
On 11/29/2013 6:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
>> get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
>> three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
>> cards.
>
> Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
> saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
> your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.
>
> Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
>
So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
And while it is a left tilt the "large" access door is on the right
under the extension table.
I have dropped the nut once before and I know that it is a 50/50 chance
of dropping into the dust chute or in to the BLACK innerds of the saw.
So I crawl down there with a flash light that has dead batteries and
cant see s____ because of the BLACK innerds of the TS. I wiggle the
dust hose and hear nothing. I feel around inside the BLACK bowels of
the TS and feel nothing. Out of the corner of my eye I see a BLACK lump
inside the front corner of the motor cover door. Sure enough that is
the nut. The nut dropped, bounced off the dust hose, did a triple sow
cow and landed in the door. What the heck are the chances.... Well the
chances are now, 33/33/33/1, not sure about the 1 yet.
So feeling right proud of myself for actually finding the nut where it
should not have been at all, I stand back up walk over to remove the
flange washer and, wait for it, wait for it, yup you guessed it. The
flange washer fell deep down into the BLACK innerds of the TS.
Now I know I have a 33/33/33/1 chance of it being in 4 different places.
Back down I go on my hands and knees crawl inside and rattle the dust
hose and sure enough that is where it landed. Fortunately that thing
comes off real easy. Unfortunately my arm does not real fit in that
hose... After a While I did get it off and got the washer out.
I put the nut and washer on top of the saw, removed the blade and went
inside for the night.
BTY I was standing to the left of the blade, wait for it, wait for it,
TWO TIMES!!! eh Rovert?
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:18:39 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
>> I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
>> stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
>> works.
>>
>What do they call the ones that look like a series of long roller stands?
"Outfeed Roller tables"?
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020511/22598/HTC-Universal-Table-Saw-Outfeed-Roller-Table.aspx
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 19:39:41 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Mine is left-tilt. also. If I stand on the left side I'd have to
>>> reach across the blade. That's a pretty awkward position, compared
>>> with standing in front.
>>
>> Nothing awkward about it ... allows you to get both hands in front of you
>> and equally into play. Try it a few times, before you knock it.
>
>Then again, I learned a long time ago that you don't need to raise the
>blade to the full height to change it.
>
>With the blade lowered to about half height, or less, there is more than
>enough room for two LARGE hands. I generally put the index finger of the
>left hand on the end of the arbor shaft, after the the nut is placed with
>the right hand, and before turning it ... haven't dropped an arbor nut that
>way in ten years, more or less. :)
You still have to reach around the blade to get to the nut.
>Particular handy position when mounting a dado set.
I'll try it but it doesn't seem "natural".
On 11/29/2013 10:13 PM, Bill wrote:
> Sonny wrote:
>> On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
>>> The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.
>> Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on
>> the shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the
>> saw's mobile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for
>> the different tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's
>> wrenchs and miter guage were not with the saw and no telling where the
>> auction folks misplaced them, if they were ever there in the first place.
>>
>> Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have
>> been stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.
>>
>> Sonny
>
> I thought of that possibility this afternoon. I checked. No wrench, but
> I learned that "those legs" really need to be under the extension
> table. I came too close to tipping it. I figured out a plan to move the
> saw from one base to the other, while I was out there. I will just
> skooch it out of one base and set in right into the other. I will seek
> a willing helper.
>
> I suspect someone can help me with this question.
> The saw came with 3 sizable black things--2 appears to be "plastic"
> motor covers, and the other (metal) looks like a basin. There is a 4"
> round dust port on the back (bottom) of the saw, so I assume the one
> black motor cover is used when that dust port is being use. I assume
> the motor cover with a rectangular slot/adaptor (4"?) is used for an
> alternate form of dust collection. Then there is the rectangular "black
> metal basin" that is at least 3" deep. It actually fits in the inside
Pics Bill, will be better
> of the mobile base, it doesn't make sense to me (to put it there, under
> the base of the saw), but it fits. Can you tell me what it's for? I'm
> guessing maybe it fits inside the saw to facilitate dust collection
> somehow. I haven't done my own "due diligence" regarding these covers
> so I apologize for that in advance. Maybe it goes "upside down" in the
> bottom on the saw (sorry, I haven't already tried)?
>
> I took another look at the OEM splitter. It appears to sit quite a bit
> further back from the blade than the Biesmeyer (78-961) would. If I
> understand correctly, one doesn't get the choice of using any blade
> guard with the 78-961 splitter.
--
Jeff
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 15:08:29 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> So Bill - have you heard that yet? Did you have to be called to
>>>> Thanksgiving dinner 4 times today?
>>>>
>>> It's has currently warmed up to 23-degrees F. Admittedly I did look into the
>>> garage before bed last night and 2 or 3 times today just to make sure
>>> the saw was okay...
>>>
>> Aw Bill - you are indeed a good guy.
>>
>Thanks Mike, please send money! No saw without a Christmas??? : )
You're going to need the money for Christmas. You have to at least
balance the saw!
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 09:59:46 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 11/30/2013 9:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Now,*that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
>> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
>> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway.;-)
>
>Too late, patent pending:
>
>https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5952081380341089186
>
>See you in an East Texas courthouse. LOL
When the patent issues, have your people contact my people. ;-)
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 11:49:10 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>>>
>>> A rare earth magnet or two outside the dust port might work better...
>>
>> Now, *that's* an idea. A magnet on a dip-stick inserted through a
>> hole the side of the case. Too bad you've disclosed your idea. Well,
>> you have 364 days to get to the patent office in the US, anyway. ;-)
>
>Heck - they sell goose neck magnets about 18" long - or longer, every day.
>Mechanics have used these things for decades.
That just means that a better patent attorney is needed. ;-)
"Bill" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>John Grossbohlin wrote:
>> I recommend the T-Splitter as a huge improvement over the OEM unit...
>> I put one on my Jet contractor's saw and on the Jet cabinet saw that
>> replaced it. The cost was soon forgotten as the ease of use encourages
>> you to actually use it! BTW, I got them both from Mike's.
>>
>Thanks for the review of the product as well as the retailer!
I'll post some photos to abpw so you can see how it looked mounted.
John
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 18:52:12 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
>saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
>your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.
What? You don't like playing hide and seek with your flange nut for
twenty minutes until you finally find that it bounced into the most
obscure area of your table saw?
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:24:41 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 11/29/2013 6:52 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> BTW, the nut will always fall down into the sawdust below. Once you
>>> get dust collection set up, you'll have to disconnect it all, at least
>>> three times a day to fetch the nut out of the bottom. It's in the
>>> cards.
>>
>> Another reason why I like a left tilt - standing to the left side of the
>> saw while changing the blade, instead of in front of the blade, decreases
>> your chances of dropping either the nut, or the flange, by about 50%.
>>
>> Not much, but I'll take what I can get.
>>
>
>
>So I was finishing up on what ever a week or so ago and dropped the
>BLACK nut in side the BLACK innerds of my SawStop.
>
>And while it is a left tilt the "large" access door is on the right
>under the extension table.
Oh, crap! There goes all my plans for an outfeed table. The dust
port would be inaccessible. Back to the draw^h^h^h^h Sketchup.
>I have dropped the nut once before and I know that it is a 50/50 chance
>of dropping into the dust chute or in to the BLACK innerds of the saw.
>So I crawl down there with a flash light that has dead batteries and
>cant see s____ because of the BLACK innerds of the TS. I wiggle the
>dust hose and hear nothing. I feel around inside the BLACK bowels of
>the TS and feel nothing. Out of the corner of my eye I see a BLACK lump
>inside the front corner of the motor cover door. Sure enough that is
>the nut. The nut dropped, bounced off the dust hose, did a triple sow
>cow and landed in the door. What the heck are the chances.... Well the
>chances are now, 33/33/33/1, not sure about the 1 yet.
>
>So feeling right proud of myself for actually finding the nut where it
>should not have been at all, I stand back up walk over to remove the
>flange washer and, wait for it, wait for it, yup you guessed it. The
>flange washer fell deep down into the BLACK innerds of the TS.
>
>Now I know I have a 33/33/33/1 chance of it being in 4 different places.
> Back down I go on my hands and knees crawl inside and rattle the dust
>hose and sure enough that is where it landed. Fortunately that thing
>comes off real easy. Unfortunately my arm does not real fit in that
>hose... After a While I did get it off and got the washer out.
>
>I put the nut and washer on top of the saw, removed the blade and went
>inside for the night.
>
>BTY I was standing to the left of the blade, wait for it, wait for it,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>TWO TIMES!!! eh Rovert?
Too funny! ;-)
On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 18:00:29 -0800 (PST), Sonny <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Friday, November 29, 2013 6:45:37 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
>> The saw should have come with a pair of wrenches.
>
>Bill bought the used saw at an auction. The Unifence was initially on the shaper (table), the shaper's mobile base was under the Unisaw, the saw's mobile base was on top the saw/side table. Seems some parts for the different tools were scattered about the auction site. The saw's wrenchs and miter guage were not with the saw and no telling where the auction folks misplaced them, if they were ever there in the first place.
Yeah, I should have been clearer. When I said "should have" I meant
that it was "supposed to", not that it's lost (well, it is ;-) or that
he got screwed. They "should be" available as parts, though.
>Bill, I'd take a peek inside the cabinet, to see if the wrenches have been stashed inside, there, among the sawdust.
Good idea.
On 11/29/2013 8:18 PM, Bill wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 29 Nov 2013 17:05:34 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> woodchucker wrote:
>>>> BTW do make an outfeed table.. you'll be glad you did.
>> I haven't done that yet. It's on the list. Meanwhile, I use a roller
>> stand to catch the other end of the board. Not the greatest but it
>> works.
>>
> What do they call the ones that look like a series of long roller stands?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/37-Outfeed-Roller-System-For-Table-Saws/G1317
And worth every penny IMHO. I have had this set on both of my cabinet
saws. Happy with it since 1999.
And no adjustments after initial installation. With the typical out
feed you have to readjust the support legs each time you move your saw.
And the out feed can be folded down or up at any time and does not have
to be in the down position when you move the saw.
However if you never move your saw anything will work.