This fall I'm going to start on a built-in bookcase in my unfinished
den. It'll be around 16' long and 7½' to 8' tall. Shelves probably 36"
long. I'm expecting to either paint it white or use maple plywood for
the construction and shellac or verethane (whatever) that. Facing on
the shelves etc will be solid maple(if carcass is maple plywood) or
oak(if carcass is painted) 2x strips either way. I'm leaning towards
the maple as opposed to paint finish though. Den (17x22)will eventually
be done in a Nautical motif as time and funds permit.
Questions:
- since the horizonal strips will be adding strength to the shelf
pieces, whats the best way to attach them to the shelves? Biscuits,
nails, dowels???
- since I do not yet have carpeting in the den, and since I don't plan
on moving the bookcase sections, it would seem prudent to let them set
directly on the concrete floor slab and when I have it carpeted just go
to the base of the cases themselves as opposed to putting carpet under
the cases, then attaching them back to the walls. Comments?
Assumptions:
- attaching the case sections to the wall along the top and bottom of
each section should be sufficient. IOW, no need for a 1x crossmember of
sorts along the middle of the cases for anchoring to the wall.
All other comments and sites for 'inspirational' purposes only welcome.
Grandpa John
In article <[email protected]>, Tom Watson
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I have some bookcases there that I made. I don't know if they are
> inspirational.
Nope, no inspiration there at all...
</smartasscomment>
Damn, you do great work, Tom.
djb
In article <c_EDc.1604$fd3.438@lakeread04>, [email protected]
says...
> I like to cut the bottom of the sides of the casework higher in
> the back than the front. This makes the case lean against the
> wall
>
Or at least cut a notch to go over the carpet tackstrip. Yes, I
know the OP said he didn't have carpet yet, but...
I don't agree with carpeting to the edge of the bookcases. "I
don't plan on moving" strikes me as famous last words :-).
Build them now, but plan on moving them out and installing the
carpet all over. So cut the notch.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
Larry Blanchard wrote:
> In article <c_EDc.1604$fd3.438@lakeread04>, [email protected]
> says...
>
>>I like to cut the bottom of the sides of the casework higher in
>>the back than the front. This makes the case lean against the
>>wall
>>
>
> Or at least cut a notch to go over the carpet tackstrip. Yes, I
> know the OP said he didn't have carpet yet, but...
>
> I don't agree with carpeting to the edge of the bookcases. "I
> don't plan on moving" strikes me as famous last words :-).
>
> Build them now, but plan on moving them out and installing the
> carpet all over. So cut the notch.
>
Good point sir, sounds like wisdom. Thanx!
Grandpa
Tom Watson wrote:
>> All other comments and sites for 'inspirational' purposes only welcome.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/page2.htm
>
> I have some bookcases there that I made. I don't know if they are
> inspirational.
I could do that.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
B a r r y <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>
> It sounds like you're going built-in, so think of a short base, ala
> toe kick, that will sit on the floor. You can install this, level it
> with shims, then enjoy a much easier task of building straight, plumb
> bookcases, rather than trying to sit them directly on the concrete.
> The base is easily made of jointed 2x lumber or plywood strips, with a
> facing that matches the rest of the work applied to sides that can be
> seen.
>
> Barry
>
This also helps with tipping up tall cabinets into place, when they are
nearly the full room height. This is a lesson more easily learned from
others, rather than from personal experience.
Patriarch
I like to cut the bottom of the sides of the casework higher in
the back than the front. This makes the case lean against the
wall
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG
"Grandpa" <jsdebooATcomcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This fall I'm going to start on a built-in bookcase in my
unfinished
> den. It'll be around 16' long and 7½' to 8' tall. Shelves
probably 36"
> long. I'm expecting to either paint it white or use maple
plywood for
> the construction and shellac or verethane (whatever) that.
Facing on
> the shelves etc will be solid maple(if carcass is maple plywood)
or
> oak(if carcass is painted) 2x strips either way. I'm leaning
towards
> the maple as opposed to paint finish though. Den (17x22)will
eventually
> be done in a Nautical motif as time and funds permit.
>
> Questions:
> - since the horizonal strips will be adding strength to the
shelf
> pieces, whats the best way to attach them to the shelves?
Biscuits,
> nails, dowels???
>
> - since I do not yet have carpeting in the den, and since I
don't plan
> on moving the bookcase sections, it would seem prudent to let
them set
> directly on the concrete floor slab and when I have it carpeted
just go
> to the base of the cases themselves as opposed to putting carpet
under
> the cases, then attaching them back to the walls. Comments?
>
> Assumptions:
> - attaching the case sections to the wall along the top and
bottom of
> each section should be sufficient. IOW, no need for a 1x
crossmember of
> sorts along the middle of the cases for anchoring to the wall.
>
> All other comments and sites for 'inspirational' purposes only
welcome.
>
> Grandpa John
>
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 12:12:41 -0600, Grandpa <jsdebooATcomcast.net>
wrote:
>- since the horizonal strips will be adding strength to the shelf
>pieces, whats the best way to attach them to the shelves? Biscuits,
>nails, dowels???
Biscuits, splines, or plugged pocket holes from below would all work
fine.
>- since I do not yet have carpeting in the den, and since I don't plan
>on moving the bookcase sections, it would seem prudent to let them set
>directly on the concrete floor slab and when I have it carpeted just go
>to the base of the cases themselves as opposed to putting carpet under
>the cases, then attaching them back to the walls. Comments?
You have to decide if these are truly built in, or separate furniture.
When I construct a built-in, I build them, or rather a base for them,
directly on the sub floor. If the unit has any possibility of leaving
when I move, being moved to another wall, etc... It sits on the
finish flooring.
It sounds like you're going built-in, so think of a short base, ala
toe kick, that will sit on the floor. You can install this, level it
with shims, then enjoy a much easier task of building straight, plumb
bookcases, rather than trying to sit them directly on the concrete.
The base is easily made of jointed 2x lumber or plywood strips, with a
facing that matches the rest of the work applied to sides that can be
seen.
Barry
Comments in-line below.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
"Grandpa" <jsdebooATcomcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This fall I'm going to start on a built-in bookcase in my unfinished
> den.
SNIP
I'm leaning towards
> the maple as opposed to paint finish though. Den (17x22)will eventually
> be done in a Nautical motif as time and funds permit.
>
> Questions:
> - since the horizonal strips will be adding strength to the shelf
> pieces, whats the best way to attach them to the shelves? Biscuits,
> nails, dowels???
Just a rebate and glue. see: http://www.calanb.com/detail2.jpg
>
> - since I do not yet have carpeting in the den, and since I don't plan
> on moving the bookcase sections, it would seem prudent to let them set
> directly on the concrete floor slab and when I have it carpeted just go
> to the base of the cases themselves as opposed to putting carpet under
> the cases, then attaching them back to the walls. Comments?
>
Make sure that there is vapor barrier between the wood and concrete.
Plastic sheet works.
> Assumptions:
> - attaching the case sections to the wall along the top and bottom of
> each section should be sufficient. IOW, no need for a 1x crossmember of
> sorts along the middle of the cases for anchoring to the wall.
Should be fine. The weight is supported by the floor; all you need is some
way to keep the cabinets from tipping.
>
> All other comments and sites for 'inspirational' purposes only welcome.
>
> Grandpa John
>
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 12:12:41 -0600, Grandpa <jsdebooATcomcast.net>
wrote:
>This fall I'm going to start on a built-in bookcase in my unfinished
>den. It'll be around 16' long and 7½' to 8' tall. Shelves probably 36"
> long. I'm expecting to either paint it white or use maple plywood for
>the construction and shellac or verethane (whatever) that. Facing on
>the shelves etc will be solid maple(if carcass is maple plywood) or
>oak(if carcass is painted) 2x strips either way. I'm leaning towards
>the maple as opposed to paint finish though. Den (17x22)will eventually
>be done in a Nautical motif as time and funds permit.
>
>Questions:
>- since the horizonal strips will be adding strength to the shelf
>pieces, whats the best way to attach them to the shelves? Biscuits,
>nails, dowels???
I put my edges on with biscuits. I feel this to be a strong
connection and the biscuits help to register the intersection of the
solid stock to the ply (or mdf, which will save you some money, if you
go the way of paint.) It's worth spending some extra time during the
glue-up to get the top edge flush with the shelf material, rather than
relying on sanding.
>
>- since I do not yet have carpeting in the den, and since I don't plan
>on moving the bookcase sections, it would seem prudent to let them set
>directly on the concrete floor slab and when I have it carpeted just go
>to the base of the cases themselves as opposed to putting carpet under
>the cases, then attaching them back to the walls. Comments?
It's better to rest on the solid floor. If you sit the units on
carpet, the carpet will compress under load, over time.
>
>Assumptions:
>- attaching the case sections to the wall along the top and bottom of
>each section should be sufficient. IOW, no need for a 1x crossmember of
>sorts along the middle of the cases for anchoring to the wall.
You really only need to screw the units in at the top, in order to
keep them from tipping. I usually put a few screws in down lower, to
help snug the box to the wall.
>
>All other comments and sites for 'inspirational' purposes only welcome.
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/page2.htm
I have some bookcases there that I made. I don't know if they are
inspirational.
Regards,
Tom.
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
"Grandpa" <jsdebooATcomcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Questions:
> - since the horizonal strips will be adding strength to the shelf
> pieces, whats the best way to attach them to the shelves? Biscuits,
> nails, dowels???
The best IMHO would to cut a grove, rabbet on the top back edge of the board
to fasten by glue to the front of the shelf.
> - since I do not yet have carpeting in the den, and since I don't plan
> on moving the bookcase sections, it would seem prudent to let them set
> directly on the concrete floor slab and when I have it carpeted just go
> to the base of the cases themselves as opposed to putting carpet under
> the cases, then attaching them back to the walls. Comments?
I positively hate to set bookcases on top of carpet. The carpet tends to
give a spongy foundation to the bookcase and it takes time to "settle in".
If you immediately attach the bookcase to the wall and have the bookcase
setting on the carpet, the weight may eventually be totally supported by the
wall. Better to have a solid footting IMHO. Also, if you replace the
carpet the old normally remains under the bookcase. If you carpet up to the
bookcase, plan on leaving the book case if you move. If you carpet under
the book case and take it with you when you move you may have to replace all
the carpet because the indentations in the carpet may never come out and
surely wil not be faded like the rest of the carpet.
>
> Assumptions:
> - attaching the case sections to the wall along the top and bottom of
> each section should be sufficient.
Agreed, maybe overkill as at the top is plenty. Your main concern after it
is filled is that it does not tip over.
On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 16:29:39 -0700, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <c_EDc.1604$fd3.438@lakeread04>, [email protected]
>says...
>> I like to cut the bottom of the sides of the casework higher in
>> the back than the front. This makes the case lean against the
>> wall
>>
>Or at least cut a notch to go over the carpet tackstrip. Yes, I
>know the OP said he didn't have carpet yet, but...
>
>I don't agree with carpeting to the edge of the bookcases. "I
>don't plan on moving" strikes me as famous last words :-).
>
>Build them now, but plan on moving them out and installing the
>carpet all over. So cut the notch.
My build-in bookcases are truly built in. The bases are a part of the
framing and they are not coming out short of destroying them and
probably the wall they are against. IMO that is the best way to handle
*large* bookcase units. If they can actually be tied into the studding
at the top it is even better.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"It's just eighth-grade Sewickley."
Chuck Knox
<sounds of jaw dropping>
Inspiration is an understatement!!! Awe, jealousy, motivation,
wonderment, bewilderment, dazzlement (a word???) etc, etc, etc....
Damn fine crafstmanship, Tom.
Mark L.
Tom Watson wrote:
>
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/page2.htm
>
> I have some bookcases there that I made. I don't know if they are
> inspirational.
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Tom.
>
> Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
> tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
> http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1