Guys and gal, go easy on me...
_I_ know how to finish wood. <G> _Re_finishing is an entirely
different ball game.
I have a pal who did his oak stairs with Minwax water based poly. It's
ugly, the wood is simply dead looking. Can we go over it with oil
based poly to add some ambering, possibly with Seal Coat in between?
This guy is building me a staircase, I'm fixing his finish. <G> I
don't normally use any of these products.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
> The ambering from oil products is from it penetrating the pores.
Umm, are you suyre about that? I see amber when I look into the can of an
oil based varnish.
I believe the ambering is caused by the actual product.
Sat, Nov 4, 2006, 1:10am (EST+5) [email protected]
(B=A0A=A0R=A0R=A0Y) doth lament:
<snip> I have a pal who did his oak stairs with Minwax water based poly.
It's ugly, the wood is simply dead looking. =A0 Can we go over it with
oil based poly to add some ambering, possibly with Seal Coat in between?
Whatever you do, remember to try it on a scrap stairs first.
I'd use t he 800 number first, and see what the manufacture has to
say. What about trying some WB with tint over it? I've used WB, not
tinted, and it's worked out well for what I've used it on. You could
alway paint. LOL
JOAT
If you're not making a rocket, it ain't rocket science.
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Guys and gal, go easy on me...
>
> _I_ know how to finish wood. <G> _Re_finishing is an entirely
> different ball game.
>
> I have a pal who did his oak stairs with Minwax water based poly. It's
> ugly, the wood is simply dead looking. Can we go over it with oil
> based poly to add some ambering, possibly with Seal Coat in between?
>
The ambering from oil products is from it penetrating the pores. Hopefully
the water based poly has sealed them.
All you can do now is try a glaze, but it won't be the same.
Hopefully your friend will learn to test a finish first.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>>>
>>> The ambering from oil products is from it penetrating the pores.
>>
>> Umm, are you suyre about that? I see amber when I look into the can of
>> an oil based varnish.
>>
>> I believe the ambering is caused by the actual product.
> If you put colorless mineral spirits on wood it will amber. Actual
> product?
>
Yes mineral spirits are an oil based product. The more refined, the less
amber you will see.
Keep in mind also that brown woods will become more so with any clear liquid
including water. Oil based will tend to make it amber more so.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>>
>> The ambering from oil products is from it penetrating the pores.
>
> Umm, are you suyre about that? I see amber when I look into the can of an
> oil based varnish.
>
> I believe the ambering is caused by the actual product.
If you put colorless mineral spirits on wood it will amber. Actual product?
On Sat, 4 Nov 2006 11:42:26 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
> I'd use t he 800 number first, and see what the manufacture has to
>say.
Minwax says it's OK, via the web. However, they also say Polyshades
look good. <G>
>What about trying some WB with tint over it? I've used WB, not
>tinted, and it's worked out well for what I've used it on. You could
>alway paint. LOL
It's not my house...
The issue with trying this on scrap is that the WB needs to be totally
cured, as in 60+ days (Minwax), and I'd have to buy several products I
have no use for.
The stairs are fully cured, so we're probably just going to take a
whack at one step. If it doesn't work out, I'll try some tinting some
shellac or WB with Trans-Tint or Tintall. I was trying to prevent
reinventing the wheel.
I've seen home center WB look ok on birch and maple, but on the red
oak stair treads, not so good...
I actually use a "water base lacquer" all the time, M.L. Campbell
Ultrastar, on cabinetry, but it needs to be sprayed.
On Sat, 04 Nov 2006 02:50:15 GMT, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The ambering from oil products is from it penetrating the pores. Hopefully
>the water based poly has sealed them.
>All you can do now is try a glaze, but it won't be the same.
>Hopefully your friend will learn to test a finish first.
He's an extremely good carpenter, who could care less about finishing.
A "professional" finisher on a job told him about the virtues of
Minwax WB poly. <G>
Google tells me that I can put oil over water, if the water is fully
cured and scuffed. Since the existing finish is over a year old, I'm
going to give it a shot. I'm thinking that Seal Coat may also impart
some color.
I was hoping someone had done it.