Is the table solid wood, or veneer? If it is a veneer, care must be
taked to keep from sanding through. Older veneers are thicker than the
newer ones. A card scraper is good if you know how to use and sharpen
one, then only light sanding is required, and is better than sand paper
for removing finishes.. If there is any oil in the finish, expect the
sand paper to clog. I know that there are special types of sand paper
for removing paint and finishs, but don't know of a source.
robo hippy
J Antero wrote:
> I'll be refinishing a large dining room table.
>
> What's the best type / make etc. power sander for getting the old finish off
> without creating striations in the wood? Obviously, I'd like to keep the
> cost down.
>
> Also, what about sand paper grades?
>
> Thanks
I like to take conservative approach when refinishing, using less
abrasive methods before sanding. My philosopy is to do as little
sanding as possible when refinishing. It is as easy to to harm as it
is good especially when using power sanders and coarse grades of paper.
You want to use a chemical strippper to remove as much of the old
finish as possible before sanding. You can use finer grades of steel
wool with the stripper to even out the darker areas but do not expect
that you will get the edges the same color as the surface. Sanding is
a bummer and you may not need to sand at all.
Sand if you must but you can probably hand sanding will be all you
need. A random orbit sander has the least chance among power sanders
of doing more harm. I think you could start with a 120 grit and would
be wary of using anything coarser.
Lawrence
J Antero wrote:
> I'll be refinishing a large dining room table.
>
> What's the best type / make etc. power sander for getting the old finish off
> without creating striations in the wood? Obviously, I'd like to keep the
> cost down.
>
> Also, what about sand paper grades?
>
> Thanks
I like to take conservative approach when refinishing, using less
abrasive methods before sanding. My philosopy is to do as little
sanding as possible when refinishing. It is as easy to to harm as it
is good especially when using power sanders and coarse grades of paper.
You want to use a chemical strippper to remove as much of the old
finish as possible before sanding. You can use finer grades of steel
wool with the stripper to even out the darker areas but do not expect
that you will get the edges the same color as the surface. Sanding is
a bummer and you may not need to sand at all.
Sand if you must but you can probably hand sanding will be all you
need. A random orbit palm sander has the least chance among power
sanders
of doing more harm. I think you could start with a 120 grit and would
be wary of using anything coarser.
Lawrence
"Charles Spitzer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> ask in rec.woodworking.
>
He did. He cross posted, and so did you, and so am I. LOL
J Antero wrote:
> I'll be refinishing a large dining room table.
>
> What's the best type / make etc. power sander for getting the old
> finish off without creating striations in the wood? Obviously, I'd
> like to keep the cost down.
>
> Also, what about sand paper grades?
1. Chemical stripper. Dollars to donuts the table has a lacquer finish
in which case lacquer thinner will do the deed. That and lots of paper
towels. Lacquer thinner can go BOOM in the presence of fire.
2. Scraper
3. Sand if necessary. Any kind of sander other than belt. Grit size
depends on what you are trying to do...40-80 = remove lots fairly fast,
finer on down to 240 or so smooths and/or removes marks from coarser.
OK to skip grades.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"J Antero" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll be refinishing a large dining room table.
>
> What's the best type / make etc. power sander for getting the old finish
> off without creating striations in the wood? Obviously, I'd like to keep
> the cost down.
>
> Also, what about sand paper grades?
>
> Thanks
1/4 or 1/2 sheet finishing sander. porter cable is a good one.
you might want to strip the old finish off with chemicals instead, which
depends upon what the finish is.
ask in rec.woodworking.
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 15:28:49 GMT, "J Antero" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'll be refinishing a large dining room table.
>
>What's the best type / make etc. power sander for getting the old finish off
>without creating striations in the wood? Obviously, I'd like to keep the
>cost down.
>
>Also, what about sand paper grades?
>
>Thanks
>
>
As Charles said, a 1/4 or 1/2 sheet finishing sander..
My personal choice is a 1/4 sheet "palm sander" which, as the name implies, can
be controlled by your palm...
It might come with a sand paper starter kit, if not, pick up an assortment from
100 to maybe 320... you can use full sheets and quarter them, but for most new
users it's best to by precut sheets... YMWV
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm