Needed some 1 1/4" stock and the store was out'a 6/4. So I picked up some
4/4 and will be laminating it together.
I think the answer to this is "no" - but, is there any reason to surface,
place, or joint the stock *before* gluing it together? The stock is S3S and
the faces are in fine shape. Shop must'a had decent blades that day.
I can see a reason to plane/joint it if it was cupped, warped, etc.
This stock isn't - just wondering is there's a Tiplet (R) out there saying
"face joint and plane your S3S stock once more before gluing two 4/4 boards
together to make 8/4 stock!"?
thanks
In article <[email protected]>, patrick@conroy-
family.net says...
> Needed some 1 1/4" stock and the store was out'a 6/4. So I picked up some
> 4/4 and will be laminating it together.
>
> I think the answer to this is "no" - but, is there any reason to surface,
> place, or joint the stock *before* gluing it together? The stock is S3S and
> the faces are in fine shape. Shop must'a had decent blades that day.
>
I was always taught that glue takes better on fresh surfaces. You might
want to run a sanding block or scraper over the glue faces at least.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
Okay, 13/16's and only 3-1/2" wide, and mahogany...yeah, that's tough to
prevent some seam from showing. With that length, I'd tend to thickness plane
it, clamp with edges aligned and lightly sanded, then wet if needed to check
for seams before glue added. Assuming, of course, this is very near your final
width. Unless it looks good at that point, the clamps won't help. One
alternative is to first check across the face for flatness, then lightly
scallop the middle (widely) (.002-3) before clamping.
My reason to switch from face planing (jointer) to thickness planing is that
your critical flatness is across the face. With 35" long and that narrow, the
length will be easier to handle. The above could, of course, be done on a
jointer by applying pressure properly, but easier on a thickness planer.
The only other thing that comes to mind, is that I typically allow at least
1/8 extra width, then trim after the glueup. That tends to reduce some of the
seam lines, especially as it's easy to slightly depress part of an edge and
not notice it until later.
GerryG
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 16:14:17 GMT, "patrick conroy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> You didn't mention either the wood, or the size. As that S3S is probably
>3/4",
>> consider that a small piece may need face planing more than a large one,
>as
>
>Sorry - it was S3S 4/4 Honduran Mahogany from Paxton's. Their 4/4 stock is
>usually 13/16's or so.
>
>> Finally, most important is how you clamp it together. For anything but
>small
>> pieces, I would suggest cauls.
>
>They ended up being about 3 1/2" wide by 35" long. I threw almost every
>clamp in the shop at them
>
>The seam ended up being *almost* invisible.
>Almost is the operative work.
>
>There's an occasional sliver of gap that will be enough to annoy the hell
>out'a me.
>So now, I'm resawing some stock to cover that side.
>
Machine it so your finished product looks good. A thick section and a thin
section doesn't look as good as two equal sections.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"patrick conroy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Needed some 1 1/4" stock and the store was out'a 6/4. So I picked up some
> 4/4 and will be laminating it together.
>
> I think the answer to this is "no" - but, is there any reason to surface,
> place, or joint the stock *before* gluing it together? The stock is S3S
and
> the faces are in fine shape. Shop must'a had decent blades that day.
>
> I can see a reason to plane/joint it if it was cupped, warped, etc.
>
> This stock isn't - just wondering is there's a Tiplet (R) out there saying
> "face joint and plane your S3S stock once more before gluing two 4/4
boards
> together to make 8/4 stock!"?
>
> thanks
>
>
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> My reason to switch from face planing (jointer) to thickness planing is
that
> your critical flatness is across the face. With 35" long and that narrow,
the
Make sense!
>
> The only other thing that comes to mind, is that I typically allow at
least
> 1/8 extra width, then trim after the glueup. That tends to reduce some of
the
> seam lines, especially as it's easy to slightly depress part of an edge
and
> not notice it until later.
>
Thanks for the approach. My finished width is 1 1/4", so I'll try a little
trimming and see if the seams vanish a bit further in.
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> You didn't mention either the wood, or the size. As that S3S is probably
3/4",
> consider that a small piece may need face planing more than a large one,
as
Sorry - it was S3S 4/4 Honduran Mahogany from Paxton's. Their 4/4 stock is
usually 13/16's or so.
> Finally, most important is how you clamp it together. For anything but
small
> pieces, I would suggest cauls.
They ended up being about 3 1/2" wide by 35" long. I threw almost every
clamp in the shop at them
The seam ended up being *almost* invisible.
Almost is the operative work.
There's an occasional sliver of gap that will be enough to annoy the hell
out'a me.
So now, I'm resawing some stock to cover that side.
"patrick conroy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Needed some 1 1/4" stock and the store was out'a 6/4. So I picked up some
>4/4 and will be laminating it together.
>
>I think the answer to this is "no" - but, is there any reason to surface,
>place, or joint the stock *before* gluing it together? The stock is S3S and
>the faces are in fine shape. Shop must'a had decent blades that day.
>
>I can see a reason to plane/joint it if it was cupped, warped, etc.
>
>This stock isn't - just wondering is there's a Tiplet (R) out there saying
>"face joint and plane your S3S stock once more before gluing two 4/4 boards
>together to make 8/4 stock!"?
If it's an oily wood like teak, you may be best off surfacing it
first. Otherwise, if the faces to be glued are flat, you should be
fine, IMO.
JP
You didn't mention either the wood, or the size. As that S3S is probably 3/4",
consider that a small piece may need face planing more than a large one, as
there'll be less room for the board to flex enough to join together. There is
also the question of how you may be cutting it. If these were, say, 8" wide by
5' long, and you cut it into 4" strips, you may see some gaps.
Finally, most important is how you clamp it together. For anything but small
pieces, I would suggest cauls.
Taking into account all the above, in most cases all you need to do is clean
the surfaces. Make sure there's no resin or oil, and use a raking light to see
if their planing left a slight glaze on the surface. If any, clean, sand
and/or scrape lightly first.
Remember that the "first rule of woodworking" is that "no rule always
applies", and you need to carefully examine what you need.
GerryG
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:14:46 GMT, "patrick conroy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Needed some 1 1/4" stock and the store was out'a 6/4. So I picked up some
>4/4 and will be laminating it together.
>
>I think the answer to this is "no" - but, is there any reason to surface,
>place, or joint the stock *before* gluing it together? The stock is S3S and
>the faces are in fine shape. Shop must'a had decent blades that day.
>
>I can see a reason to plane/joint it if it was cupped, warped, etc.
>
>This stock isn't - just wondering is there's a Tiplet (R) out there saying
>"face joint and plane your S3S stock once more before gluing two 4/4 boards
>together to make 8/4 stock!"?
>
>thanks
>