Re: Your comments on Leon's sewing cabinet thread....
> A few years ago I showed that trick to one of my finishing comrades, and =
he loved it. Like me, he had been rolling out and leaving it to dry, or ro=
lling out and back brushing. Ouch. He loved the final finish, but he went=
uptown on this idea and bought these because he could clean them and reuse=
them. Crap... I thought I was cheap!=20
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-7-1-2-in-Premium-Teflon-Painter-Pad-39=
55106/202080282=20
I never thought to consider a "skim" or "trowel" type application (volume c=
overage application), for large surfaces.
I'm anticipating having problems spraying my large table top, shellac first=
coat. Might this painter's pad, for my shellac (and subsequent?) applica=
tion, work well for my large flat-surface application? Might the pad work=
just as well for a shellac application, as did for your mentioned poly app=
lication (not just for painting purposes)?
If this painter's pad will work, that way, then I can apply the first coat =
(and subsequent coats, maybe) inside the shop, rather than hauling this hea=
vy table top outdoors (for the otherwise planned spraying).
I suppose I can try it (test piece, first) and report any feedback, as per =
shellac application.
Thanks.
Sonny
On Thursday, August 27, 2015 at 2:40:43 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>=20
> Since you are so far into and have done so much work on your actual proje=
ct, it would be a shame to not get exactly what you want as a finish. I un=
derstand that is isn't me in the project, but if it was I would do a bit of=
internet research and get my coffee mug and hit the road. I only talk to =
the managers of the stores as they have had the most training and are most =
likely to have the best product knowledge.=20
>=20
> I don't know that I could actually help at this point, but ask away and I=
will be glad to take a crack at any questions.
>=20
> Robert
Thanks Robert. I've been anxious to get the finishing done, so I've rushed=
myself. Overnight, I've reconsidered my previous ideas. Today, I'll ask =
around as to some of the pro floor finishers, as to what they use, maybe ev=
en get estimates for their finishing the table top for me. =20
I won't complete this job by Saturday, so I might as well take a little mor=
e time and do it right. Maybe the floor finishers have/use the SW poly o=
r Hi-Bild, so I won't have to buy the 5 gallons. I'll ask them to critiqu=
e my prep, also, if that'll help them with their prospective finishing.
I'd still like to try spraying shellac on the bottom side, just to see how =
I do with it and my overall technique on large abnormal pieces.=20
Sonny
On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:02:56 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
=20
> And some times that is not enough. My helper, Kim, completely missed=20
> painting an inside panel because under certain lighting the light green=
=20
> and white prime look the same. I had to buy another gallon of primer=20
> and I had them tint it to a light gray color to make it easier to see=20
> where we have been with the top coat. ;~)
And that good sir, is how you can tell a professional from a DIY guy.
Blame the helper!
Tinting the primer is a great idea. So many kitchen cabinets are white the=
se days, as well as decorative pieces that when I shoot that super fast dry=
enamel I like I can't see the difference between the enamel and the primer=
. The SW products I use are both the same shade of white. As for sheen, t=
he primer isn't "dead flat", so it is tricky.
Still, without good help, a man is up against it... wait till I tell Kim y=
ou blamed this on her!
Robert
On Thursday, August 27, 2015 at 7:27:47 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
> Thanks Robert. I've been anxious to get the finishing done, so I've rush=
ed myself. Overnight, I've reconsidered my previous ideas. Today, I'll as=
k around as to some of the pro floor finishers, as to what they use, maybe =
even get estimates for their finishing the table top for me. =20
>=20
> I won't complete this job by Saturday, so I might as well take a little m=
ore time and do it right. Maybe the floor finishers have/use the SW poly=
or Hi-Bild, so I won't have to buy the 5 gallons. I'll ask them to criti=
que my prep, also, if that'll help them with their prospective finishing.
>=20
> I'd still like to try spraying shellac on the bottom side, just to see ho=
w I do with it and my overall technique on large abnormal pieces.=20
>=20
> Sonny
That sounds like an excellent plan. Most floor finishers use acrylics thes=
e days as opposed to solvent based, and the good stuff is remarkably hard a=
nd doesn't yellow.
I would bet that if you shellac that bottom you will be surprised at how we=
ll it will go. Plan it all out, allow enough time, use the proper applicat=
ion techniques and no doubt it will go well.
Hope you let us know your decisions and how it turns out.
Robert
On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 2:03:45 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> I use a primer for the first coat because it is less expensive than
> using the premium top coat for both. ;~)
*squeak* *squeak* *squeak*
Wow... once again, I thought I was cheap! LOL!!!
I rarely use all the top coat in a can of finish in a project. Plenty there for a good base or wash coat. And I don't have to buy some primer to save a coat of top coat finish.
So... Leon... your work sells for thousands, and deservedly so. Are you really that careful with the price difference of literally a few bucks that makes the difference between finish and primer?
I am still laughing, BTW... I DID see the wink...
Still pretty funny.
Robert
On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:54:37 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
> Still not sure why you want a=20
> shellac coat when you are going to topcoat it with lacquer...
And this is exactly the kind of comment that makes me think and rethink, no=
t only for this project, but comparatively of my past projects.
I've built nice projects in the past, out of salvaged lumber mostly, but I'=
ve never really worked to a high end degree. Many of my past projects wer=
e/are more for utility, IMO, not higher end. I want this project to be be=
tter than my past workings. =20
In the past, I wasn't too concerned with the finish quality on my past piec=
es, only that they were coated with a reasonable finish for their use. I =
had setteld with finishing many of them with Spar urethane (long ago) and m=
ore recently with Varethane floor finish. The lacquer, I've been spraying,=
was used more for when I have been refinishing upholstered pieces and a fe=
w of my more recent projects. I have the sense that those past finishes w=
ere "good enough". I want the finish on this table to be better than that,=
better than my past efforts and most appropriate to/for the table, itself.
I assumed the shellac would be the best application to pop the grain. With=
your pointed comment, think I can now understand the point of your insist=
ing on considering an alternative, that any clear coat can do the same. M=
y initial idea of topcoating with the lacquer, that I have been using for s=
everal years, is now, also, in question. This lacquer may not be the bett=
er lacquer for dining table tops. Robert's recommendation of the SW's mor=
e durable lacquer or poly seems to be the better option, for the most durab=
le topcoat.
I had called SW and asked about those products' availability, at their stor=
e, but I need to go speak to the guys, to narrow down my choice of which pr=
oduct to use, then buy the choice.
I had been concerend with the shellac drying too fast, before I could finis=
h coating the whole table surface, hence using the paint pads for faster ap=
plication. I will likely scratch the shellac use and apply only one finis=
h, either the SW Hi-Bild Pre-Cat lacquer or the poly.... I'm leaning toward=
the poly. I'm assuming either of these should pop the grain just as well=
as the shellac would. I am assuming the poly won't dry as fast as the lac=
quer.
OT: Somewhat frustrating, family reunion this Saturday and out-of-state fa=
mily members are in town, so I've been busy entertaining, going out to eat,=
etc. (taking time from my shop work); Also, niece's son and I are buildin=
g, for him, a forge (he wants to try some blacksmithing), so that's taking =
up my time, lately. Today I'm in the shop, the whole day to myself.
It's been hot and muggy the past month. Cold front has come through, yeste=
rday, so it's cool, this morning, and humidity is low.... feels great outdo=
ors, for a change!
Thanks Robert, Mike, Leon, Lew. I'm paying attention to your comments, al=
so.
Sonny
On 8/26/2015 11:23 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:02:56 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> And some times that is not enough. My helper, Kim, completely
>> missed painting an inside panel because under certain lighting the
>> light green and white prime look the same. I had to buy another
>> gallon of primer and I had them tint it to a light gray color to
>> make it easier to see where we have been with the top coat. ;~)
>
> And that good sir, is how you can tell a professional from a DIY
> guy.
>
> Blame the helper!
Well Hell Yeah!!!
>
> Tinting the primer is a great idea. So many kitchen cabinets are
> white these days, as well as decorative pieces that when I shoot that
> super fast dry enamel I like I can't see the difference between the
> enamel and the primer. The SW products I use are both the same shade
> of white. As for sheen, the primer isn't "dead flat", so it is
> tricky.
Exactly! Remind me to tell you about repainting our first home, white
on white on 10' ceilings with texture that looked like 3/4" to 1" long
drips. Crunch, crackle, snap they went when rolling. And it was flat
white on flat white and the old paint had not changed in color at all.
The only way to tell where I had been was with her shining a halogen
torch light to get a reflection off of the wet paint. ;~( She was
insistent on painting the ceiling. I'm insistent on reminding her of
that, some 25+ years later...
>
> Still, without good help, a man is up against it... wait till I tell
> Kim you blamed this on her!
>
She already knows... ;~) She had to go look at that unpainted panel
before she would believe that it had been missed, by her, the helper. ;~)
> Robert
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Sonny wrote:
> > On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:54:37 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
> >> Still not sure why you want a
> >> shellac coat when you are going to topcoat it with lacquer...
> >
> > And this is exactly the kind of comment that makes me think and
> > rethink, not only for this project, but comparatively of my past
> > projects.
> >
> > I've built nice projects in the past, out of salvaged lumber mostly,
> > but I've never really worked to a high end degree. Many of my past
> > projects were/are more for utility, IMO, not higher end. I want
> > this project to be better than my past workings.
> >
> > In the past, I wasn't too concerned with the finish quality on my
> > past pieces, only that they were coated with a reasonable finish for
> > their use. I had setteld with finishing many of them with Spar
> > urethane (long ago) and more recently with Varethane floor finish.
> > The lacquer, I've been spraying, was used more for when I have been
> > refinishing upholstered pieces and a few of my more recent projects.
> > I have the sense that those past finishes were "good enough". I want
> > the finish on this table to be better than that, better than my past
> > efforts and most appropriate to/for the table, itself.
> >
> > I assumed the shellac would be the best application to pop the grain.
> > With your pointed comment, think I can now understand the point of
> > your insisting on considering an alternative, that any clear coat
> > can do the same. My initial idea of topcoating with the lacquer,
> > that I have been using for several years, is now, also, in question.
> > This lacquer may not be the better lacquer for dining table tops.
> > Robert's recommendation of the SW's more durable lacquer or poly
> > seems to be the better option, for the most durable topcoat.
>
> I have no compressor so the only spraying I do is with rattle cans or Preval
> and I only use those on smallish things. For larger things (furniture) I
> use Deft's semi-gloss brushing lacquer because it builds well and sands so
> easily.
>
> Now, I know there are various lacquers and that some have additives to make
> them harder but lacking spray equipment I am locked into the Deft. My
> experience is that it does not pop/color quite as much as oil poly, tung or
> BLO so I have at times used oil to pop and top coated that (when dry) with
> lacquer. (In my days as a portrait photographer, I often used washes of
> thinned oil paint to enhance photos. The paint was immediately top coated
> with lacquer, nary a problem but the paint film was very, very thin.)
>
> Deft lacquer is not as hard/scratch resistant as oil poly but it is
> infinitely easier to apply and repair. You pays your money and takes your
> choice. I'd not hesitate to use either, both have admirable attributes.
Get a compressor, a good sized one. Having compressed air available
opens up a whole new world, and not just for spraying.
> > OT: Somewhat frustrating, family reunion this Saturday and
> > out-of-state family members are in town, so I've been busy
> > entertaining, going out to eat, etc. (taking time from my shop work);
> > Also, niece's son and I are building, for him, a forge (he wants to
> > try some blacksmithing), so that's taking up my time, lately. Today
> > I'm in the shop, the whole day to myself.
>
> Wot, you are having fun when you could be working?? Tsk, tsk :)
On 8/25/2015 1:20 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>> There are a lot of myths about
>> prime/first/base coats, but for raw wood, most of the time the top
>> coat you use works just fine for a first coat.
>
> Thank you Robert! I have been preaching this for a long time here. It
> seems most folks prefer to find some obscure website whree some guy comes up
> with some equally obscure notion for how to apply a finish - which I
> personally believe is only about making himself sound more eserotic and in
> some way, a novelle artist. Translate - trying to get hits on his web
> site.
>
>
>> I never prime raw
>> wood if I am putting on a clear coat, and only use the final finish
>> as my choice for all coats. I prime if the wood is dirty, extremely
>> porous, might have its surface contaminated with chemicals, or if I
>> am staining/dying.
>>
>
> Guys who have actually applied finish coats know this kind of thingt. Guys
> who have not, tend to believe what they find on the internet, as if that is
> some sort of gospel.
>
>
>
I use a primer for the first coat because it is less expensive than
using the premium top coat for both. ;~)
Update: Went to SW and inquired about the products, Hi-Bild lacquer and S=
her-Wood Poly. =20
The lacquer dries fast, gallon cans available. To be sprayed, only.
They didn't have the Sher-Wood poly in stock. The guy recommended Wood Cl=
assics Poly Varnish, as a Sher-Wood poly substitute, but that the Wood Clas=
sics would yellow, to some extent, over time. He also said the Sher-Wood p=
oly is a two part application (primer coat, then top coat) and comes in 5 g=
allons, only.
I'm back to square one. Reconsidering 1) Applying shellac and topcoating =
with my familiar Varathane Floor Finish OR 2) Applying the Varathane only=
.... test some applications to see the results, before committing to this.
Sonny
Sonny wrote:
> > I suppose I can try it (test piece, first) and report any feedback,
> > as per shellac application.
Always test! IIRC, you are pretty far into this project and you don't need=
a set back.
On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:54:37 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>=20
> Good plan. IIRC, your table is sizeable; I'd think the biggest problem w=
ith=20
> a pad and shellac would be the shellac drying to the point where the pad=
=20
> drags; i.e., tough to keep a wet edge. Still not sure why you want a=20
> shellac coat when you are going to topcoat it with lacquer...
Once again, I agree with dadiOH. These pads will spread shellac just fine =
and and leave a great coat, although I must say I have never used them for =
more than sanding sealer. I agree with his comments, though. If you work =
fast and the weather isn't too hot where you are and you are applying in a =
room with no air movement you will be fine. Make sure you check the notes =
about how long you can use the pads, though.
I also agree with the comment on using shellac under lacquer. Lacquer make=
s a dandy prime/first coat and they even sell lacquer based clear wood prim=
ers. There are a lot of myths about prime/first/base coats, but for raw wo=
od, most of the time the top coat you use works just fine for a first coat.=
I never prime raw wood if I am putting on a clear coat, and only use the =
final finish as my choice for all coats. I prime if the wood is dirty, ext=
remely porous, might have its surface contaminated with chemicals, or if I =
am staining/dying.
Under good conditions, if you work fast I'll bet the pads work fine. I wou=
ld thin the shellac to about 1 1/2 lb cut though, maybe thinner (I am think=
ing the viscosity of water), so I could really get that stuff on quickly an=
d easily. Remember, since shellac resolvates, you could put on 1/2 cut if =
you wanted and simply put on another coat or two and wind up with the same =
end product thickness.
Robert
On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 11:43:54 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
> Update: Went to SW and inquired about the products, Hi-Bild lacquer and=
Sher-Wood Poly. =20
>=20
> The lacquer dries fast, gallon cans available. To be sprayed, only.
>=20
> They didn't have the Sher-Wood poly in stock. The guy recommended Wood =
Classics Poly Varnish, as a Sher-Wood poly substitute, but that the Wood Cl=
assics would yellow, to some extent, over time. He also said the Sher-Wood=
poly is a two part application (primer coat, then top coat) and comes in 5=
gallons, only.
>=20
> I'm back to square one. Reconsidering 1) Applying shellac and topcoatin=
g with my familiar Varathane Floor Finish OR 2) Applying the Varathane on=
ly.... test some applications to see the results, before committing to this=
.
>=20
> Sonny
If you are wanting a product that won't yellow or amber at all over time, t=
hen you will need to switch to an acrylic product. All of the oil/solvent =
based stuff, even the catalyzed, will yellow after a time. There are plent=
y of them out there, that's for sure. SW, Benjamin Moore, ML Cambell, etc.=
, all have their version. To my knowledge, all the "professional grade" no=
n yellowing acrylics are spray only. Don't be confused by the water borne =
finishes sold in the home improvement stores.
Sonny... I just feel like you are so close to getting this done! I have no=
doubt you have the skills and talent, but it seems the finishing part is w=
earing you down. I completely understand, believe me. =20
Since we are chatting about this, I would offer you yet another opinion. I=
like SW because they have a lot of products I like. But my job is to make=
a living at this stuff, and if they don't have exactly what I go straight =
over to another vendor. I live in city that has many paint stores with a l=
ot of different product until I get what I want. At this point in time, mo=
st of the finishes apply about the same in actual practice, and their perfo=
rmance is similar as well.
I go to SW first, Benjamin Moore second, then an industrial coatings store =
last. Unless I am for quick and inexpensive finish, I stay out of HD or Lo=
we's. Even though Lowe's sells Varathane products, which used to be a king=
among coatings (especially their varnish lines) I don't think they sell th=
e same stuff at Lowe's we buy in the paint store. Although it seems like i=
t would be the opposite, if you follow the manufacturer's instructions they=
are easier to apply and certainly give better results than the home improv=
ement store products.
Since you are so far into and have done so much work on your actual project=
, it would be a shame to not get exactly what you want as a finish. I unde=
rstand that is isn't me in the project, but if it was I would do a bit of i=
nternet research and get my coffee mug and hit the road. I only talk to th=
e managers of the stores as they have had the most training and are most li=
kely to have the best product knowledge.=20
I don't know that I could actually help at this point, but ask away and I w=
ill be glad to take a crack at any questions.
Robert
Sonny wrote:
> Re: Your comments on Leon's sewing cabinet thread....
>
>> A few years ago I showed that trick to one of my finishing comrades,
>> and he loved it. Like me, he had been rolling out and leaving it to
>> dry, or rolling out and back brushing. Ouch. He loved the final
>> finish, but he went uptown on this idea and bought these because he
>> could clean them and reuse them. Crap... I thought I was cheap!
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-7-1-2-in-Premium-Teflon-Painter-Pad-3955106/202080282
>
> I never thought to consider a "skim" or "trowel" type application
> (volume coverage application), for large surfaces.
>
> I'm anticipating having problems spraying my large table top, shellac
> first coat. Might this painter's pad, for my shellac (and
> subsequent?) application, work well for my large flat-surface
> application? Might the pad work just as well for a shellac
> application, as did for your mentioned poly application (not just for
> painting purposes)?
>
> If this painter's pad will work, that way, then I can apply the first
> coat (and subsequent coats, maybe) inside the shop, rather than
> hauling this heavy table top outdoors (for the otherwise planned
> spraying).
>
> I suppose I can try it (test piece, first) and report any feedback,
> as per shellac application.
Good plan. IIRC, your table is sizeable; I'd think the biggest problem with
a pad and shellac would be the shellac drying to the point where the pad
drags; i.e., tough to keep a wet edge. Still not sure why you want a
shellac coat when you are going to topcoat it with lacquer...
[email protected] wrote:
> There are a lot of myths about
> prime/first/base coats, but for raw wood, most of the time the top
> coat you use works just fine for a first coat.
Thank you Robert! I have been preaching this for a long time here. It
seems most folks prefer to find some obscure website whree some guy comes up
with some equally obscure notion for how to apply a finish - which I
personally believe is only about making himself sound more eserotic and in
some way, a novelle artist. Translate - trying to get hits on his web
site.
> I never prime raw
> wood if I am putting on a clear coat, and only use the final finish
> as my choice for all coats. I prime if the wood is dirty, extremely
> porous, might have its surface contaminated with chemicals, or if I
> am staining/dying.
>
Guys who have actually applied finish coats know this kind of thingt. Guys
who have not, tend to believe what they find on the internet, as if that is
some sort of gospel.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>> There are a lot of myths about
>> prime/first/base coats, but for raw wood, most of the time the top
>> coat you use works just fine for a first coat.
>
> Thank you Robert! I have been preaching this for a long time here. It
> seems most folks prefer to find some obscure website whree some
> guy comes up with some equally obscure notion for how to apply a
> finish - which I personally believe is only about making himself
> sound more eserotic and in some way, a novelle artist. Translate - trying
> to get hits on his web site.
Wow - there were certainly certainly some corrections needed above...
Translations:
Whree - where
eserotic - esoteric
novelle - noveau
>
> Guys who have actually applied finish coats know this kind of thingt.
Thingt - thing
Sometimes the damned fingers just don't work like they should...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Sonny wrote:
> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:54:37 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>> Still not sure why you want a
>> shellac coat when you are going to topcoat it with lacquer...
>
> And this is exactly the kind of comment that makes me think and
> rethink, not only for this project, but comparatively of my past
> projects.
>
> I've built nice projects in the past, out of salvaged lumber mostly,
> but I've never really worked to a high end degree. Many of my past
> projects were/are more for utility, IMO, not higher end. I want
> this project to be better than my past workings.
>
> In the past, I wasn't too concerned with the finish quality on my
> past pieces, only that they were coated with a reasonable finish for
> their use. I had setteld with finishing many of them with Spar
> urethane (long ago) and more recently with Varethane floor finish.
> The lacquer, I've been spraying, was used more for when I have been
> refinishing upholstered pieces and a few of my more recent projects.
> I have the sense that those past finishes were "good enough". I want
> the finish on this table to be better than that, better than my past
> efforts and most appropriate to/for the table, itself.
>
> I assumed the shellac would be the best application to pop the grain.
> With your pointed comment, think I can now understand the point of
> your insisting on considering an alternative, that any clear coat
> can do the same. My initial idea of topcoating with the lacquer,
> that I have been using for several years, is now, also, in question.
> This lacquer may not be the better lacquer for dining table tops.
> Robert's recommendation of the SW's more durable lacquer or poly
> seems to be the better option, for the most durable topcoat.
I have no compressor so the only spraying I do is with rattle cans or Preval
and I only use those on smallish things. For larger things (furniture) I
use Deft's semi-gloss brushing lacquer because it builds well and sands so
easily.
Now, I know there are various lacquers and that some have additives to make
them harder but lacking spray equipment I am locked into the Deft. My
experience is that it does not pop/color quite as much as oil poly, tung or
BLO so I have at times used oil to pop and top coated that (when dry) with
lacquer. (In my days as a portrait photographer, I often used washes of
thinned oil paint to enhance photos. The paint was immediately top coated
with lacquer, nary a problem but the paint film was very, very thin.)
Deft lacquer is not as hard/scratch resistant as oil poly but it is
infinitely easier to apply and repair. You pays your money and takes your
choice. I'd not hesitate to use either, both have admirable attributes.
> OT: Somewhat frustrating, family reunion this Saturday and
> out-of-state family members are in town, so I've been busy
> entertaining, going out to eat, etc. (taking time from my shop work);
> Also, niece's son and I are building, for him, a forge (he wants to
> try some blacksmithing), so that's taking up my time, lately. Today
> I'm in the shop, the whole day to myself.
Wot, you are having fun when you could be working?? Tsk, tsk :)
On 8/26/2015 1:43 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 2:03:45 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> I use a primer for the first coat because it is less expensive than
>> using the premium top coat for both. ;~)
>
> *squeak* *squeak* *squeak*
>
> Wow... once again, I thought I was cheap! LOL!!!
>
> I rarely use all the top coat in a can of finish in a project. Plenty there for a good base or wash coat. And I don't have to buy some primer to save a coat of top coat finish.
>
> So... Leon... your work sells for thousands, and deservedly so. Are you really that careful with the price difference of literally a few bucks that makes the difference between finish and primer?
>
> I am still laughing, BTW... I DID see the wink...
>
> Still pretty funny.
>
> Robert
>
LOL
I aim to please, in humoring you. :~)
I'm on my second gallon of top coat for her 5 piece studio cabinets.
And,
Actually I apply a water based primer and sand smooth and then apply the
top coat. The primer can be sanded in just a few hours, not so with the
oil based top coat.
The gallon of primer I used was white. The gallon of top coat is was
light green. Almost white with a green tint.
Anyway the different color primer makes it easy to see if I missed any
spots when applying the top coat.
And some times that is not enough. My helper, Kim, completely missed
painting an inside panel because under certain lighting the light green
and white prime look the same. I had to buy another gallon of primer
and I had them tint it to a light gray color to make it easier to see
where we have been with the top coat. ;~)