Greetings all,
In addition to building the furniture for my new house, I've been
doing a lot of assorted remodeling, and I've recently rediscovered my
hatred of painter's tape. Last weekend I painted my bathroom in a
sort of Mondriaan style to keep myself busy (blocks of primary colors
divided by bold black lines set onto a white background) It turned
out pretty good, but I had a problem with some of the paint coming
right up with the tape along the edges when I pulled it off. I can
(and already have) touch it up by hand, but this is an irritating
problem I've had both with my current projects, and back when I was
doing remodeling for a living.
This is no doubt going to come up again for me, so I was just
wondering if anyone here has come up with a good way to make sure that
the tape comes off a freshly painted wall cleanly. I was thinking
that I *could* score along the edge of the tape with a utility knife
before pulling it off, but one slip, and it's going to look like crap.
I saw one of those home-destruction shows on TLC a while back where
they were using painter's caulk on the tape somehow to make clean
lines on a wall, but I wasn't really paying attention at the time and
don't care to have to sand and reprime a wall at some future point
because I thought I *maybe* remembered how to do it.
Other useful information here is that I always either skim-coat and
prime walls before painting, or wash with TSP to degloss existing
paint that is in good condition. I pretty much always use water-based
semi-gloss or satin, and it seems like the semi-gloss gives me more
trouble than the satin. (I can't seem to get flat paint to *work* at
all- it takes 6 or 7 coats and still looks blotchy)
Any thoughts?
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
<snip>
> Maybe I just need to do all the cut-in coats
> before getting the walls themselves, and pull up the tape right away.
> I was pulling it kind of slow, though- so I'll try giving it a little
> gas next time.
<snip>
Hi Prometheus,
I have always had pretty good results by pulling the
tape within 5-10 minutes of application - while
it is still wet. I pull the tape at an angle back over
itself, i.e. by pulling it in the reverse direction and
order of how I applied it.
I have not done any kind of checkerboard paint over
paint scheme tho. My experience is mainly trim type
painting.
Lou
>
> The problem with that is that when you're painting with reds or
darker
> blues, they always seem to need at least three coats or they look
> crappy. Could be I just need to learn the same lesson I needed about
> woodworking, and be patient enough to peel the tape right away, wait
a
> day, and then remask and do the second coat.
>
What I do is double tape the first time. Paint first coat, peel, paint
second coat, peel. Like falling off a log.
-Phil Crow
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings all,
>
> In addition to building the furniture for my new house, I've been
> doing a lot of assorted remodeling, and I've recently rediscovered my
> hatred of painter's tape. Last weekend I painted my bathroom in a
> sort of Mondriaan style to keep myself busy (blocks of primary colors
> divided by bold black lines set onto a white background) It turned
> out pretty good, but I had a problem with some of the paint coming
> right up with the tape along the edges when I pulled it off. I can
> (and already have) touch it up by hand, but this is an irritating
> problem I've had both with my current projects, and back when I was
> doing remodeling for a living.
>
> This is no doubt going to come up again for me, so I was just
> wondering if anyone here has come up with a good way to make sure that
> the tape comes off a freshly painted wall cleanly. I was thinking
> that I *could* score along the edge of the tape with a utility knife
> before pulling it off, but one slip, and it's going to look like crap.
> I saw one of those home-destruction shows on TLC a while back where
> they were using painter's caulk on the tape somehow to make clean
> lines on a wall, but I wasn't really paying attention at the time and
> don't care to have to sand and reprime a wall at some future point
> because I thought I *maybe* remembered how to do it.
>
> Other useful information here is that I always either skim-coat and
> prime walls before painting, or wash with TSP to degloss existing
> paint that is in good condition. I pretty much always use water-based
> semi-gloss or satin, and it seems like the semi-gloss gives me more
> trouble than the satin. (I can't seem to get flat paint to *work* at
> all- it takes 6 or 7 coats and still looks blotchy)
>
> Any thoughts?
>
Using the low-tack blue stuff? Seems to work best for me.
Satin or semi shows every plaster fault with glancing light, in my
experience. Washability does not seem the problem it once was, and that's
what they were touted for.
>Assuming you are talking about walls and not trim, use a better brand paint.
>I repainted my whole house summer before last and found a big black spot on
>the wall under my sons desk. He put his feet on the wall and the black from
>the soles rubbed off on the wall. I could not believe how dirty it was.
>Any way, Sears "Best" Easy Living Flat Latex wall paint absolutely covered
>the spot with one coat. But the best paint and you will be much happier
>with the results.
>
>For trim I always recommend an Alkyd Oil Based Enamel. Sherwin Williams,
>they make Sears paint, makes a top of the line trim paint. 1 gallon did all
>the trim and doors in my house with 1 coat. Again, I bought the best.
I'll admit, I did cheat myself a little and got cheap stuff this time.
I did the job a couple of weeks before I had planned to because I
needed to keep myself occupied, and the budget wasn't quite what it
should have been. *sigh* As far as trim goes, it is a mortal sin to
paint trim in my house... I've got the original hard maple trim and
doors in spotless condition right now, and they're going to stay that
way! You can always repaint a wall, but stripping and restaining is a
whole different story.
Sherwin Williams has got my buck for the exterior once things warm up
a little, though. They do make good paint!
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
On Tue, 03 May 2005 06:55:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 03 May 2005 06:34:28 -0500, the inscrutable Prometheus
><[email protected]> spake:
>
>>Greetings all,
>>
>>In addition to building the furniture for my new house, I've been
>>doing a lot of assorted remodeling, and I've recently rediscovered my
>>hatred of painter's tape. Last weekend I painted my bathroom in a
>>sort of Mondriaan style to keep myself busy (blocks of primary colors
>
>See a shrink. Really. ;)
I like it! What are they going to tell me- my house is too colorful?
As it stands, the kitchen is mandarin orange with white appliances and
counters, the dining room is newport blue (blue-grey) with cobalt blue
lighting and oak dining set, the living room is burgundy with bamboo
shades and black curtains (they're only 10" wide though- accents to
make the windows match the ebonized ash and natural maple furniture)
and the bedroom is spinner blue (think navy or midnight blue) with
butternut furnishings and white Sumi-e panels. The rest of the rooms
are still in process. And I still haven't gotten around to making the
shop safety yellow :)
Though it was interesting that when I searched for examples of
Mondriaan used in archetecture, the only thing I found was a reference
to a prison cell in Attica designed by him that was considered
unusable because it caused hallucinations in the guards and inmates.
But then I realized that I don't spend that much time in the bathroom,
so I'm sure it'll be ok. :)
>>divided by bold black lines set onto a white background) It turned
>>out pretty good, but I had a problem with some of the paint coming
>>right up with the tape along the edges when I pulled it off. I can
>>(and already have) touch it up by hand, but this is an irritating
>>problem I've had both with my current projects, and back when I was
>>doing remodeling for a living.
>
>If the peeling paint is UNDER the tape, are you letting the paint dry
>thoroughly before trying to mask for a second or subsequent color?
>Give it 72 hours, at least, if not. If the peeling paint is NEXT TO
>the tape, are you pulling the tape fast enough, before it dries enough
>to form a tough film? I always pull fresh masking off at a 45-90°
>angle away from the line it was laid, especially if it's had a bit too
>long to dry. The quicker you pull it, the better it levels at the edge
>to form a cleaner transition.
The peeling paint is at the edge of the tape, not underneith it. It's
forming a film. I tried pulling at an angle, but it still likes to
pull up the edges a bit. Maybe I just need to do all the cut-in coats
before getting the walls themselves, and pull up the tape right away.
I was pulling it kind of slow, though- so I'll try giving it a little
gas next time.
>I've always had best luck with satins and eggshells. Cleaning and
>deglossing semi- or gloss is absolutely critical. DAMHIKT. <sigh>
Yep... I've got that same DAMHIKT in my file, too.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
loutent wrote:
>> <snip>
>>
>>> Maybe I just need to do all the cut-in coats
>>> before getting the walls themselves, and pull up the tape right
>>> away. I was pulling it kind of slow, though- so I'll try giving it
>>> a little gas next time.
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>> Hi Prometheus,
>>
>> I have always had pretty good results by pulling the
>> tape within 5-10 minutes of application - while
>> it is still wet. I pull the tape at an angle back over
>> itself, i.e. by pulling it in the reverse direction and
>> order of how I applied it.
>>
>> I have not done any kind of checkerboard paint over
>> paint scheme tho. My experience is mainly trim type
>> painting.
>>
>> Lou
Same here, the sooner I pull the tape the better even though I end up with
wet paint on my hands, this seems to work best. I think he is saying he
has to apply more than one coat which means the first coat has to dry so he
is stuck.
Maybe a thicker coat of paint with a different roller (or thicker paint?)
would give coverage so the tape could be pulled wet after one coat?
If I were going to do this kind of block-color painting on a wall, I'd use
the 2 ounce bottles of Delta or like "craft" acrylic. They go on with a 3"
roller, dry in minutes, and give good coverage in 1-3 coats. Add the black
lines a few days later, use lots of tape!
Josie
nospambob <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> My understanding the green tape is designed for lacquer. Don't know
> if waterborne or solvent.
>
I bought mine at the auto body & paint supplier locally. Those folks are a
really good info resource, as well as the best place to get really fine
abrasives.
It seems to give a crisper edge.
Patriarch
On Wed, 04 May 2005 06:40:29 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>Make sure it has flashing red lights, too. That way it's prepared for
>any epileptics who wander in from time to time.
Good idea.... I wonder if I can find some red flashers for those
two-wire supsended track light systems.... :)
>Do it in one coat and immediately pull the adjacent tape, before it
>has time to dry. Alternatively/additionally, some Floetrol might help.
>I haven't used it yet, but the specs look interesting.
The problem with that is that when you're painting with reds or darker
blues, they always seem to need at least three coats or they look
crappy. Could be I just need to learn the same lesson I needed about
woodworking, and be patient enough to peel the tape right away, wait a
day, and then remask and do the second coat.
>
>>>I've always had best luck with satins and eggshells. Cleaning and
>>>deglossing semi- or gloss is absolutely critical. DAMHIKT. <sigh>
>>
>>Yep... I've got that same DAMHIKT in my file, too.
>
>I repainted the inside of my house a couple years back and still
>haven't gotten around to scrubbing and repainting the trim work.
TSP makes pretty quick work of it, FWIW.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
On Tue, 03 May 2005 06:34:28 -0500, the inscrutable Prometheus
<[email protected]> spake:
>Greetings all,
>
>In addition to building the furniture for my new house, I've been
>doing a lot of assorted remodeling, and I've recently rediscovered my
>hatred of painter's tape. Last weekend I painted my bathroom in a
>sort of Mondriaan style to keep myself busy (blocks of primary colors
See a shrink. Really. ;)
>divided by bold black lines set onto a white background) It turned
>out pretty good, but I had a problem with some of the paint coming
>right up with the tape along the edges when I pulled it off. I can
>(and already have) touch it up by hand, but this is an irritating
>problem I've had both with my current projects, and back when I was
>doing remodeling for a living.
If the peeling paint is UNDER the tape, are you letting the paint dry
thoroughly before trying to mask for a second or subsequent color?
Give it 72 hours, at least, if not. If the peeling paint is NEXT TO
the tape, are you pulling the tape fast enough, before it dries enough
to form a tough film? I always pull fresh masking off at a 45-90°
angle away from the line it was laid, especially if it's had a bit too
long to dry. The quicker you pull it, the better it levels at the edge
to form a cleaner transition.
>Other useful information here is that I always either skim-coat and
>prime walls before painting, or wash with TSP to degloss existing
>paint that is in good condition. I pretty much always use water-based
>semi-gloss or satin, and it seems like the semi-gloss gives me more
>trouble than the satin. (I can't seem to get flat paint to *work* at
>all- it takes 6 or 7 coats and still looks blotchy)
I've always had best luck with satins and eggshells. Cleaning and
deglossing semi- or gloss is absolutely critical. DAMHIKT. <sigh>
--
STOP THE SLAUGHTER! || http://diversify.com
Boycott Baby Oil! || Programmed Websites
On Sat, 7 May 2005 17:30:24 -0500, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
>3M makes the traditional beige tape, blue tape,and green tape.
>
>The green is made for what your are trying. Latex takes days to
>dry and weeks to cure. Oil actually cures quicker. You may not
>be letting the first color set up and cure well enough.
The green tape, eh? I actually haven't seen that, but I'm going to
check when I go to get the exterior paint- thanks for the tip.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
On 8 May 2005 06:17:05 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> The problem with that is that when you're painting with reds or
>darker
>> blues, they always seem to need at least three coats or they look
>> crappy. Could be I just need to learn the same lesson I needed about
>> woodworking, and be patient enough to peel the tape right away, wait
>a
>> day, and then remask and do the second coat.
>>
>
>What I do is double tape the first time. Paint first coat, peel, paint
>second coat, peel. Like falling off a log.
That's not a bad idea at all- thanks, I'll give that a try next time.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
On Sun, 08 May 2005 06:44:29 -0500, the inscrutable Prometheus
<[email protected]> spake:
>On Sat, 7 May 2005 17:30:24 -0500, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>3M makes the traditional beige tape, blue tape,and green tape.
>>
>>The green is made for what your are trying. Latex takes days to
>>dry and weeks to cure. Oil actually cures quicker. You may not
>>be letting the first color set up and cure well enough.
>
>The green tape, eh? I actually haven't seen that, but I'm going to
>check when I go to get the exterior paint- thanks for the tip.
I've had better luck with the 1.5" Frost King masking tape lately.
It's much smoother and less sticky than standard masking tape, and is
thinner and has a smooth adhesive which gives smoother edging.
It's more like a painter's tape than 3M's blue at less than half the
price. Check it out at Dollar Tree stores, etc.
------------------------------------------------------
No matter how hard you try, you cannot baptize a cat.
----------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
---------------------------------------------------
Prometheus wrote:
>> On Thu, 5 May 2005 09:29:17 -0400, "firstjois"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> If I were going to do this kind of block-color painting on a wall,
>>> I'd use the 2 ounce bottles of Delta or like "craft" acrylic. They
>>> go on with a 3" roller, dry in minutes, and give good coverage in
>>> 1-3 coats. Add the black lines a few days later, use lots of tape!
>>
>> I thought about that, but I was afraid that the acrylics wouldn't
>> hold up in a bathroom, where there is so much moisture from the
>> shower. As far as the black lines went, I just used the tape for
>> layout, then traced either side of the tape with a pencil, and
>> painted them freehand. It was fussy work, and took a while, but I
>> was nervous about using the tape after the sides of the blocks
>> peeled up the way they did.
The acrylics should hold up to bathroom moisture.
>>
>> I think I might try out the acrylics in the kitchen, though... I was
>> thinking of trying my hand at freehanding one of Gockel's paintings
>> on one wall, just to see if I can pull it off.
>>
>> Something like this would be slick...
>> http://www.globalgallery.com/enlarge/001-12031/
>> :)
>>
Hey, you go, guy!
Josie
On Thu, 05 May 2005 05:28:38 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 05 May 2005 06:12:11 -0500, the inscrutable Prometheus
><[email protected]> spake:
>
>>On Wed, 04 May 2005 06:40:29 -0700, Larry Jaques
>><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>The problem with that is that when you're painting with reds or darker
>>blues, they always seem to need at least three coats or they look
>>crappy. Could be I just need to learn the same lesson I needed about
>>woodworking, and be patient enough to peel the tape right away, wait a
>>day, and then remask and do the second coat.
>
>There ya go...or don't mask at all. Y'see, I went with pure, solid
>white this time. No offwhite, no colonial white, no antique white,
>no beige or gold or red or blue or mauve or gray or titty pink. Uh uh.
>Not for this boy. And I love it. My new home is MUCH brighter than my
>old one and I'm _keepin'_ it that way. Ditto the shop. It's solid
>white from the floor to the ceiling and 5 dual 4' fluor fixtures light
>it up quite well, with incandescent task lighting for detail work
>areas.
There's two problems with that... first is that I spent four years
renovating apartments and painted dozens of units dead white. White,
white, white.... over, and over, and over again until I wanted to
shake the crap out of the landlords who hired me. Second problem was
that when I was in high school, I used to have a recurring nightmare
that I was trying to find my way home, and there was an endless row of
identical buildings with numbers that I couldn't read. Seems like an
odd nightmare I'm sure, but I promised myself that my home would be as
unique as I could make it once I bought one- and now that I've bought
one, it's time to fulfill that promise to myself. Plenty of ways to
do that, but paint and specialized custom lighting go an awful long
way while I work on building all the furniture.
>>>I repainted the inside of my house a couple years back and still
>>>haven't gotten around to scrubbing and repainting the trim work.
>>
>>TSP makes pretty quick work of it, FWIW.
>
>Hard to find the real stuff, messy, caustic. Oh, bother!
>(If I weren't single, I couldn't get away with this at all.)
That may be- I just got the fake stuff they had at the store, and it
worked fine. The only bad thing about it was that my new puppy got
under the sink last night and decided to chew on the sponge that I
used to apply it. He's lucky I rinsed it good, or I'd probably have
one less dog this morning.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
My understanding the green tape is designed for lacquer. Don't know
if waterborne or solvent.
On Sun, 08 May 2005 06:44:29 -0500, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 7 May 2005 17:30:24 -0500, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>3M makes the traditional beige tape, blue tape,and green tape.
>>
>>The green is made for what your are trying. Latex takes days to
>>dry and weeks to cure. Oil actually cures quicker. You may not
>>be letting the first color set up and cure well enough.
>
>The green tape, eh? I actually haven't seen that, but I'm going to
>check when I go to get the exterior paint- thanks for the tip.
>Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
3M makes the traditional beige tape, blue tape,and green tape.
The green is made for what your are trying. Latex takes days to
dry and weeks to cure. Oil actually cures quicker. You may not
be letting the first color set up and cure well enough.
(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings all,
>
> In addition to building the furniture for my new house, I've
> been
> doing a lot of assorted remodeling, and I've recently
> rediscovered my
> hatred of painter's tape. Last weekend I painted my bathroom in
> a
> sort of Mondriaan style to keep myself busy (blocks of primary
> colors
> divided by bold black lines set onto a white background) It
> turned
> out pretty good, but I had a problem with some of the paint
> coming
> right up with the tape along the edges when I pulled it off. I
> can
> (and already have) touch it up by hand, but this is an
> irritating
> problem I've had both with my current projects, and back when I
> was
> doing remodeling for a living.
>
> This is no doubt going to come up again for me, so I was just
> wondering if anyone here has come up with a good way to make
> sure that
> the tape comes off a freshly painted wall cleanly. I was
> thinking
> that I *could* score along the edge of the tape with a utility
> knife
> before pulling it off, but one slip, and it's going to look like
> crap.
> I saw one of those home-destruction shows on TLC a while back
> where
> they were using painter's caulk on the tape somehow to make
> clean
> lines on a wall, but I wasn't really paying attention at the
> time and
> don't care to have to sand and reprime a wall at some future
> point
> because I thought I *maybe* remembered how to do it.
>
> Other useful information here is that I always either skim-coat
> and
> prime walls before painting, or wash with TSP to degloss
> existing
> paint that is in good condition. I pretty much always use
> water-based
> semi-gloss or satin, and it seems like the semi-gloss gives me
> more
> trouble than the satin. (I can't seem to get flat paint to
> *work* at
> all- it takes 6 or 7 coats and still looks blotchy)
>
> Any thoughts?
>
>
>
> Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
On Thu, 05 May 2005 06:12:11 -0500, the inscrutable Prometheus
<[email protected]> spake:
>On Wed, 04 May 2005 06:40:29 -0700, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Make sure it has flashing red lights, too. That way it's prepared for
>>any epileptics who wander in from time to time.
>
>Good idea.... I wonder if I can find some red flashers for those
>two-wire supsended track light systems.... :)
Mondriian'd be proud!
>>Do it in one coat and immediately pull the adjacent tape, before it
>>has time to dry. Alternatively/additionally, some Floetrol might help.
>>I haven't used it yet, but the specs look interesting.
>
>The problem with that is that when you're painting with reds or darker
>blues, they always seem to need at least three coats or they look
>crappy. Could be I just need to learn the same lesson I needed about
>woodworking, and be patient enough to peel the tape right away, wait a
>day, and then remask and do the second coat.
There ya go...or don't mask at all. Y'see, I went with pure, solid
white this time. No offwhite, no colonial white, no antique white,
no beige or gold or red or blue or mauve or gray or titty pink. Uh uh.
Not for this boy. And I love it. My new home is MUCH brighter than my
old one and I'm _keepin'_ it that way. Ditto the shop. It's solid
white from the floor to the ceiling and 5 dual 4' fluor fixtures light
it up quite well, with incandescent task lighting for detail work
areas.
>>I repainted the inside of my house a couple years back and still
>>haven't gotten around to scrubbing and repainting the trim work.
>
>TSP makes pretty quick work of it, FWIW.
Hard to find the real stuff, messy, caustic. Oh, bother!
(If I weren't single, I couldn't get away with this at all.)
--
"Excess regulation and government spending destroy jobs and increase
unemployment. Every regulator we fire results in the creation of over
150 new jobs, enough to hire the ex-regulator, the unemployed, and
the able-bodied poor." -Michael Badnarik
VOTE LIBERTARIAN OR YOU WON'T CHANGE ANYTHING.
On Wed, 04 May 2005 06:42:05 -0500, the inscrutable Prometheus
<[email protected]> spake:
>On Tue, 03 May 2005 06:55:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>>See a shrink. Really. ;)
>
>I like it! What are they going to tell me- my house is too colorful?
>As it stands, the kitchen is mandarin orange with white appliances and
>counters, the dining room is newport blue (blue-grey) with cobalt blue
>lighting and oak dining set, the living room is burgundy with bamboo
>shades and black curtains (they're only 10" wide though- accents to
>make the windows match the ebonized ash and natural maple furniture)
>and the bedroom is spinner blue (think navy or midnight blue) with
>butternut furnishings and white Sumi-e panels. The rest of the rooms
>are still in process. And I still haven't gotten around to making the
>shop safety yellow :)
<g>
>Though it was interesting that when I searched for examples of
>Mondriaan used in archetecture, the only thing I found was a reference
>to a prison cell in Attica designed by him that was considered
>unusable because it caused hallucinations in the guards and inmates.
>But then I realized that I don't spend that much time in the bathroom,
>so I'm sure it'll be ok. :)
Make sure it has flashing red lights, too. That way it's prepared for
any epileptics who wander in from time to time.
>>If the peeling paint is UNDER the tape, are you letting the paint dry
>>thoroughly before trying to mask for a second or subsequent color?
>>Give it 72 hours, at least, if not. If the peeling paint is NEXT TO
>>the tape, are you pulling the tape fast enough, before it dries enough
>>to form a tough film? I always pull fresh masking off at a 45-90°
>>angle away from the line it was laid, especially if it's had a bit too
>>long to dry. The quicker you pull it, the better it levels at the edge
>>to form a cleaner transition.
>
>The peeling paint is at the edge of the tape, not underneith it. It's
>forming a film. I tried pulling at an angle, but it still likes to
>pull up the edges a bit. Maybe I just need to do all the cut-in coats
>before getting the walls themselves, and pull up the tape right away.
>I was pulling it kind of slow, though- so I'll try giving it a little
>gas next time.
Do it in one coat and immediately pull the adjacent tape, before it
has time to dry. Alternatively/additionally, some Floetrol might help.
I haven't used it yet, but the specs look interesting.
>>I've always had best luck with satins and eggshells. Cleaning and
>>deglossing semi- or gloss is absolutely critical. DAMHIKT. <sigh>
>
>Yep... I've got that same DAMHIKT in my file, too.
I repainted the inside of my house a couple years back and still
haven't gotten around to scrubbing and repainting the trim work.
--
STOP THE SLAUGHTER! || http://diversify.com
Boycott Baby Oil! || Programmed Websites
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings all,
>
> In addition to building the furniture for my new house, I've been
> doing a lot of assorted remodeling, and I've recently rediscovered my
> hatred of painter's tape. Last weekend I painted my bathroom in a
> sort of Mondriaan style to keep myself busy (blocks of primary colors
> divided by bold black lines set onto a white background) It turned
> out pretty good, but I had a problem with some of the paint coming
> right up with the tape along the edges when I pulled it off. I can
> (and already have) touch it up by hand, but this is an irritating
> problem I've had both with my current projects, and back when I was
> doing remodeling for a living.
If the paint comes off with the tape, try removing the tape before the paint
dries. Also, use the Blue masking tape.
> Other useful information here is that I always either skim-coat and
> prime walls before painting, or wash with TSP to degloss existing
> paint that is in good condition. I pretty much always use water-based
> semi-gloss or satin, and it seems like the semi-gloss gives me more
> trouble than the satin. (I can't seem to get flat paint to *work* at
> all- it takes 6 or 7 coats and still looks blotchy)
Assuming you are talking about walls and not trim, use a better brand paint.
I repainted my whole house summer before last and found a big black spot on
the wall under my sons desk. He put his feet on the wall and the black from
the soles rubbed off on the wall. I could not believe how dirty it was.
Any way, Sears "Best" Easy Living Flat Latex wall paint absolutely covered
the spot with one coat. But the best paint and you will be much happier
with the results.
For trim I always recommend an Alkyd Oil Based Enamel. Sherwin Williams,
they make Sears paint, makes a top of the line trim paint. 1 gallon did all
the trim and doors in my house with 1 coat. Again, I bought the best.
On Thu, 5 May 2005 09:29:17 -0400, "firstjois"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>loutent wrote:
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>>> Maybe I just need to do all the cut-in coats
>>>> before getting the walls themselves, and pull up the tape right
>>>> away. I was pulling it kind of slow, though- so I'll try giving it
>>>> a little gas next time.
>>>
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>> Hi Prometheus,
>>>
>>> I have always had pretty good results by pulling the
>>> tape within 5-10 minutes of application - while
>>> it is still wet. I pull the tape at an angle back over
>>> itself, i.e. by pulling it in the reverse direction and
>>> order of how I applied it.
>>>
>>> I have not done any kind of checkerboard paint over
>>> paint scheme tho. My experience is mainly trim type
>>> painting.
>>>
>>> Lou
>
>Same here, the sooner I pull the tape the better even though I end up with
>wet paint on my hands, this seems to work best. I think he is saying he
>has to apply more than one coat which means the first coat has to dry so he
>is stuck.
>
>Maybe a thicker coat of paint with a different roller (or thicker paint?)
>would give coverage so the tape could be pulled wet after one coat?
>
>If I were going to do this kind of block-color painting on a wall, I'd use
>the 2 ounce bottles of Delta or like "craft" acrylic. They go on with a 3"
>roller, dry in minutes, and give good coverage in 1-3 coats. Add the black
>lines a few days later, use lots of tape!
I thought about that, but I was afraid that the acrylics wouldn't hold
up in a bathroom, where there is so much moisture from the shower. As
far as the black lines went, I just used the tape for layout, then
traced either side of the tape with a pencil, and painted them
freehand. It was fussy work, and took a while, but I was nervous
about using the tape after the sides of the blocks peeled up the way
they did.
I think I might try out the acrylics in the kitchen, though... I was
thinking of trying my hand at freehanding one of Gockel's paintings on
one wall, just to see if I can pull it off.
Something like this would be slick...
http://www.globalgallery.com/enlarge/001-12031/
:)
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam