As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladders, =
have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, mispl=
aced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warranty =
issues.
However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 years =
ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work as t=
hey work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, and t=
hey are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer hard=
ware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine litt=
le drills.
But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instructed a=
nd had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make his det=
ermination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion as to=
what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him a mon=
th in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warranty, i=
t could take another month to have it certified by the national repair depo=
t, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly ship new=
ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole process=
could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did a cu=
rsory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the old dri=
lls they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new test c=
harger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue needed =
more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was at t=
he monkey cage at the zoo...)
I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told me =
that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty r=
esolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for st=
ore related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say (thei=
r corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off center.=
It worked!
From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my hands in=
3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 days or =
there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to regis=
ter, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. They=
didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens after t=
he tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone could ch=
ange their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without having=
bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go the =
website and register.
After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. They =
lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me that I=
couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a previou=
sly registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So today,=
she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the half=
hour.
So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor th=
eir warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as well a=
s be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will warran=
t tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
Robert=20
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and
> ladders, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get
> stolen, misplaced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry
> about warranty issues.
>
> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5
> years ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen
> work as they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for
> pulls, and they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or
> adjusting drawer hardware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a
> charger. They are fine little drills.
>
> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instructed
> and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make his
> determination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion
> as to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take
> him a month in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in
> warranty, it could take another month to have it certified by the
> national repair depot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they
> could possibly ship new ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after
> that. So the whole process could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was
> shocked. The tool guy did a cursory inspection and agreed that when new
> batteries were put in the old drills they both worked fine. When the old
> batteries were put in a new test charger, they showed as defective.
> However, he determined the issue needed more research on his part.
> (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was at the monkey cage at the zoo...)
>
> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told
> me that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for
> warranty resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at
> them for store related issues. With their help they told me how and what
> to say (their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the
> project off center. It worked!
>
> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my hands
> in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
>
> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 days
> or there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to
> register, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their
> website. They didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration
> screens after the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was
> that anyone could change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn
> shops, etc. without having bought the tool new. So my CS email response
> was for me to simply go the website and register.
>
> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again.
> They lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me
> that I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a
> previously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information.
> So today, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the half hour.
>
> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor
> their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as
> well as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that
> will warrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
>
> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>
> Robert
It is nice that the warranty is a life time one but a shame that they
discourage you to use it. This is not the first time that I have heard
this review of the process, I double checked your post date to make sure it
was not an old review that I have read that resurfaced.
I do believe that Festool would probably warrant their original batteries
for 3 years, even with contractor use. Unfortunately Festool does not
warrant against loss or theft. :-(
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>>>
>>> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>>> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
>>> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have,
>>> pictures of the damage
>>>
>>> $546 - Honda Dealer
>>> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>>> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>>> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>>> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>>> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>
>>> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the
>>> "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that
>>> it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more
>>> expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and
>>> then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I
>>> repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>>>
>>> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>>>
>>
>> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
>> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
>> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
>> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
>> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>>
>
> Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've
> been dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes,
> accidents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a
> car reported "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end
> suspension and then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found
> about 2 miles from the shop even though it was undriveable because they
> had taken the front suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I
> could never prove that they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc.
> were all smashed. It looked as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing
> enough damage for the Ins Co to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was
> the only way to move the vehicle from the shop to where it was found, it
> was a perfect plan on their part. Wreck the car, tow it off of their
> property and then report it stolen, all because they could not fix it.
>
> Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old
> 1966 Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. ;-)
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZqWX4VNaI
>
> Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered
> me $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came
> back with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I
> could find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home Depot.
>
>> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
>> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
>
> I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
>
> I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and
> treat SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car she bought yesterday.
>
> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks
> like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
>
> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
There are pro's that can repair dents inexpensively with out the need for
reprinting.
On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 10:50:47 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/18/15 6:32 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:08:28 AM UTC-4, [email protected]
> > wrote:
> >> On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 2:52:16 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>
> >>> Apparently, that is not the case. Please see my earlier response
> >>> to MM. I have since learned that there is a difference between
> >>> Rigid's "Full Lifetime Warranty" and their "Lifetime Service
> >>> Agreement". The warranty doesn't cover normal wear and tear, but
> >>> the "Service Agreement" does.
> >>>
> >>> I was mistaken when I said I was curious as to why the batteries
> >>> would be covered under the Lifetime Warranty. They weren't. They
> >>> were covered under the Lifetime Service Agreement because they
> >>> were eligible for that coverage and properly registered by the
> >>> original purchaser.
> >>>
> >>> That explains why Ridgid has different pages for the "Full
> >>> Lifetime Warranty" and the "Lifetime Service Agreement". They
> >>> are not the same thing.
> >>
> >> You got it.
> >>
> >> When you buy their tools, it is important to recognize which
> >> warranty you are getting and what is covered. When I bought those
> >> two drills year ago I asked my commercial rep over and over if the
> >> batteries were covered and he always said "yes". He showed me the
> >> warranty, and it clearly stated that they were.
> >>
> >> Note that any kind of misuse or abuse negates both of the
> >> warranties were are speaking of from Ridgid. So (as they told me
> >> on the national hotline) if you take a tool to them that has had
> >> the hell beat out of it, they don't have to cover it.
> >>
> >> My commercial rep told me that HD intended to back their product,
> >> but they were counting on (as do all manufacturers) that most
> >> tools wouldn't be registered at all, registered incorrectly, or not
> >> in time. How many have put off registering because they knew they
> >> had 3 months, then forgot about it?
> >>
> >> Then the registration process at that time required that you
> >> actually cut the UPC bar code off the box and send it in with your
> >> registration request. They sent me an email that told me my
> >> account was ready to go, then I registered everything online. I
> >> don't know how they do it now, but I am sure they still make it a
> >> bit of a task.
> >>
> >
> > The registration process was pretty simple. The instructions in the
> > package said to register the serial numbers on-line, print out the
> > completed form and then mail in the form, receipt and bar code.
> > However, once you enter all of the serial numbers, there is a
> > message that says you can streamline the registration process by
> > entering the numbers under the bar code on the receipt instead of
> > mailing the paperwork in. Only if there is a problem will they
> > request that you mail in the paperwork. I've got everything ready to
> > go if they request it.
> >
>=20
> That was my experience. I hear people complaining all the time about
> how difficult their registration process is. I think the internet and
> instant results to everything have spoiled a lot of people. Any time
> you have to mail anything in and wait a couple weeks, people act like
> they're making you cross the Rockies in a covered wagon.
I don't know when the last time those "people" tried to register a product,=
but - unless they contact me - I won't have to mail anything in.
My experience was indeed the "internet and instant results" we have become =
accustomed to. I have to hand it to HD for making the process so simple. On=
e could argue that it is to their disadvantage to have eliminated the need =
for us to mail in the paperwork. The easier they make it, the more people w=
ill register, the more it may cost them. On the other hand, they don't have=
to pay as many people (or a service) to handle all of the registration pap=
erwork and match it up with the information submitted on line. (Imagine doi=
ng *that* job day in and day out!)
The only issue I had was this:
I entered the product number of the combo pack and the on-line form listed =
all of the items included, along with the individual model numbers. The on-=
line model number for the charger did not match the model number on the bot=
tom of my charger. I called their 800 number and the rep said "Don't worry,=
you have the newer model charger. Just go ahead and enter your S/N and you=
'll be fine."
I followed her instructions, but I also sent in a separate request via thei=
r on-line contact form just to get it in writing, since my registration pag=
e shows the old model number, not the one on my charger.
Other than that, I am (so far) completely satisfied with the registration p=
rocess.
>=20
> My drills/driver/batts are all registered and listed on my account page
> on the Ridgid website. I bought the tools specifically for the LSA and
> "free batteries for life" that they were advertising at my local store.
> I'm extremely satisfied with the performance of these tools, so overall
> I'm glad I bought them and would do so again without the free batteries
> or LSA.
>=20
> However, if they ever give me a hard time about giving me "free
> batteries for life" I will absolutely blow a gasket on them. I think I
> even took a picture of the sign they had on their display. :-)
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> -MIKE-
>=20
> "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> --Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
> --
> http://mikedrums.com
> [email protected]
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 08:40:05 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 3/15/2015 10:57 PM, Leon wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>>>>>
>>>>> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>>>>> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
>>>>> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have,
>>>>> pictures of the damage
>>>>>
>>>>> $546 - Honda Dealer
>>>>> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>>>>> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>>>>> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>>>>> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>>> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the
>>>>> "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that
>>>>> it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more
>>>>> expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and
>>>>> then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I
>>>>> repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>>>>>
>>>>> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
>>>> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
>>>> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
>>>> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
>>>> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've
>>> been dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes,
>>> accidents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a
>>> car reported "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end
>>> suspension and then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found
>>> about 2 miles from the shop even though it was undriveable because they
>>> had taken the front suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I
>>> could never prove that they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc.
>>> were all smashed. It looked as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing
>>> enough damage for the Ins Co to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was
>>> the only way to move the vehicle from the shop to where it was found, it
>>> was a perfect plan on their part. Wreck the car, tow it off of their
>>> property and then report it stolen, all because they could not fix it.
>>>
>>> Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old
>>> 1966 Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. ;-)
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZqWX4VNaI
>>>
>>> Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered
>>> me $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came
>>> back with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I
>>> could find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home Depot.
>>>
>>>> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
>>>> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
>>>
>>> I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
>>>
>>> I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and
>>> treat SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car she bought yesterday.
>>>
>>> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks
>>> like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
>>>
>>> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
>>
>> There are pro's that can repair dents inexpensively with out the need for
>> reprinting.
>>
> Repainting
As long as the paint is intact. If it's scratched or cracked, all
bets are off.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 08:40:05 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 3/15/2015 10:57 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>>> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>>>>>> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
>>>>>> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have,
>>>>>> pictures of the damage
>>>>>>
>>>>>> $546 - Honda Dealer
>>>>>> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>>>>>> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>>>>>> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>>>>>> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>>>> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the
>>>>>> "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that
>>>>>> it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more
>>>>>> expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and
>>>>>> then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I
>>>>>> repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
>>>>> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
>>>>> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
>>>>> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
>>>>> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've
>>>> been dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes,
>>>> accidents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a
>>>> car reported "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end
>>>> suspension and then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found
>>>> about 2 miles from the shop even though it was undriveable because they
>>>> had taken the front suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I
>>>> could never prove that they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc.
>>>> were all smashed. It looked as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing
>>>> enough damage for the Ins Co to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was
>>>> the only way to move the vehicle from the shop to where it was found, it
>>>> was a perfect plan on their part. Wreck the car, tow it off of their
>>>> property and then report it stolen, all because they could not fix it.
>>>>
>>>> Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old
>>>> 1966 Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZqWX4VNaI
>>>>
>>>> Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered
>>>> me $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came
>>>> back with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I
>>>> could find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home Depot.
>>>>
>>>>> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
>>>>> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
>>>>
>>>> I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
>>>>
>>>> I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and
>>>> treat SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car
>>>> she bought yesterday.
>>>>
>>>> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks
>>>> like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
>>>>
>>>> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
>>>
>>> There are pro's that can repair dents inexpensively with out the need for
>>> reprinting.
>>>
>> Repainting
>
> As long as the paint is intact. If it's scratched or cracked, all
> bets are off.
Scratches are ok if not through to the metal, they can be rubber or
polished out.
On Wednesday, March 11, 2015 at 12:28:36 AM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> I told him what went on at the store, and he was fairly concerned. I
> then told him that I knew that a man as busy as he was sorting out his
> store wide problems might not have a chance to tend to my small one.
> So to take the problem off his back, I offered to call the national
> contractor's line in GA and tell them about our conversation, then go
> over the customer service issues in the store and we could see how
> they thought best to handle my drill problem.
>
> That way (I theorized out loud), if they wanted to write up his
> customer service staff for lack of performance he wouldn't get any
> blame himself for forced employee discipline other than the fact that
> all store activity was his responsibility. I offered the idea that it
> was possible that since he had only been there six months they might
> give him a pass on his inability to get his employees to do their job
> properly. As an added note, I added that after a bit of consideration
> I thought contacting the national desk was the thing to do as they
> might be able to give him some much needed managerial guidance on his
> employees if they had the signal that they were a bit out of control.
>
> After some thoughtful remarks from him, he assured me that he could
> take care of it himself on a local level and there was NO REASON AT
> ALL to call the national contractor desk. I told him... no problem at
> all on my part as I could call them on the way to the next job. In a
> way, I told him I thought that having me call might actually be doing
> him a favor as it could help corral some of his bad employees without
> getting his hands dirty. No favors wanted, needed, or requested he
> adamantly told me.
>
> It was all pretty pleasant, really. But he actually looked pretty
> upset when I left. But a few days later, I had batteries on my front
> porch at my house. So I guess we all stayed friends. ;^)
> -----------------------------------------------
> You silvered tongue'd devil.
>
> Bet you're still grinnin<G>
>
> Lew
Yeah... a little bit!
Years ago I got tired of being the only guy upset with my problems. This is a much better way for me to handle things to keep my blood pressure in check and have a bit of fun at the other guy's expense.
Robert
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 4:06:34 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 3/10/2015 2:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrot=
e:
> >> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladd=
ers, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, =
misplaced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warr=
anty issues.
> >>
> >> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 y=
ears ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work=
as they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, =
and they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer=
hardware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine=
little drills.
> >>
> >> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instruc=
ted and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make hi=
s determination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion =
as to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him =
a month in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warran=
ty, it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair=
depot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly shi=
p new ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole pr=
ocess could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did=
a cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the ol=
d drills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new t=
est charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue ne=
eded more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was=
at the monkey cage at t
> he zoo...)
> >>
> >> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They tol=
d me that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warra=
nty resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them f=
or store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say =
(their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off ce=
nter. It worked!
> >>
> >> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my ha=
nds in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
> >>
> >> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 day=
s or there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to =
register, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. =
They didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens af=
ter the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone cou=
ld change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without h=
aving bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go=
the website and register.
> >>
> >> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. =
They lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me t=
hat I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a pr=
eviously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So t=
oday, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the=
half hour.
> >>
> >> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will hon=
or their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as w=
ell as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will w=
arrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor us=
e.
> >>
> >> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back=
!
> >>
> >> Robert
> >
> > As long as we are propping up Home Depot...
> >
> > A few weeks ago I went to a local HD and parked in a spot where there w=
ere no other vehicles or carts or anything nearby. When I came out I saw th=
at one of these carts was about 3" from the driver's side fender.
> >
> > http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4109/5606502231_d744d28f7e_z.jpg
> >
> > After closer inspection I found a small dent and some orange paint on m=
y fender, at the exact height of the corner of the cart.
> >
> > I went inside, found a manager, and asked him to come outside. He looke=
d at the situation and told me that he would file a report. He noted that 9=
0% of parking lot damage claims are denied, but this one looked like a no b=
rainer and that he would say so in his report.
> >
> > About 2 weeks later I got a call from some firm representing Home Depot=
and was asked a few questions about the incident. They promised to get bac=
k to me in a few days, which they did. It is now my responsibility to submi=
t 2 estimates to have the damage repaired. The representative promised that=
Home Depot will pay the lower of the 2 estimates.
> >
> > My plan is to go to 2 dealer body shops, where I assume I will get the =
highest estimates.
> >
> Don't assume the dealer body shop will be the higher estimate. Most all=
=20
> body shops are governed by what the insurance companies are willing to=20
> pay so they compete in that regard. If you intend to actually use the=
=20
> money to repair the dent you want to get the estimates from the body=20
> shops with the best reputations.
I'll let you know what they say...I'll be getting more than 2 estimates any=
way.
On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:14:37 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> With all due respect...;~) You are a big boy! I considered a Ridgid=20
> drill several years ago and felt that the only down fall was that they=20
> were Heavy. Your coworkers and contractors may feel the same way.
> It is probably your manly muscle bound hands and arms shield you from=20
> the drawback of heavy tools. ;~)
I am still laughing my butt off at that, Leon. And just so you will know, =
I prefer to think of myself of 280 pounds of boyish fun. :^)
Even though I might use them all day, unless it is ridiculous, I never cons=
ider a tool's weight. So ya got me there. And you are right that my co wo=
rkers and fellow contractors ARE concerned with tool weight and size. What=
a bunch of weenies, eh? ;^)
But size matters. (Did you hear the cymbal crash and Ed MacMahon's "hiyo"?)
All the Milwaukee, Makita and the Ridgid line of drills and saws have handl=
es that are just entirely too small for me, the little 12v Ridgid drills be=
ing the exception. The brands I see at the big home stores are uncomfortab=
le as I can barely get my palm and fingers between the trigger and and batt=
ery, and then I feel like I am holding a skinny broom stick. Same with mos=
t of their other tools in their lines.
I used to be a fan of DeWalt because they had great grips on some of their =
tools, but due to reliability issues I don't buy anything DeWalt anymore.
I am off to the salt mine. My manly self is charged this morning with fina=
l selection of paint colors, counter top color and texture as well as windo=
w treatment selections. I already picked out the floor treatments and othe=
r paint colors, so I might just stop by the tea room on the way out to the =
design center.
It isn't easy being me... ;^)
Robert
On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>=20
> > All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
> >
> > - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
> > - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the=
two
> > - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have, =
pictures of the damage
> >
> > $546 - Honda Dealer
> > $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
> > $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
> > $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
> > $479 - Independent Collision Shop
> > $456 - Independent Collision Shop
> >
> > Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the "=
paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that it m=
ight be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more expensive old=
-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and then explore oth=
er options. No problem." He then provided an R&I repair estimate similar t=
o all the rest.
> >
> > I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
> >
>=20
> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do=
=20
> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is=
=20
> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the=
=20
> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized=20
> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>=20
Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've been=
dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes, accid=
ents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a car repor=
ted "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end suspension and=
then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found about 2 miles f=
rom the shop even though it was undriveable because they had taken the fron=
t suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I could never prove that=
they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc. were all smashed. It look=
ed as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing enough damage for the Ins Co=
to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was the only way to move the vehic=
le from the shop to where it was found, it was a perfect plan on their part=
. Wreck the car, tow it off of their property and then report it stolen, al=
l because they could not fix it.
Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old 1966=
Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. =
;-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DmNZqWX4VNaI
Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered m=
e $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came ba=
ck with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I could =
find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home =
Depot.
> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.=20
I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and trea=
t SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car she bought =
yesterday.
BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks like...it's=
hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9=
dk.jpg
On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 3:27:10 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> Well then, I'd say they are definitely streamlining the process,
> due in part, no doubt, to the complaints about "hoops" through which to
> jump. :-)
Sounds a lot smoother and easier than when I first registered my drills. T=
hat was (according to them) late 2007 or so. They had a major software cha=
nge and data transfer to start up a new system somewhere just after that wh=
ere the I had to go to the website and register a new password and verify a=
ll my registration info was still there. It was.
Like you, I have a few Ridgid tools and they have turned out to be real wor=
khorses. I have two 5" ROSs, one for inside and one for outside. As I hav=
e posted before, the outside model has been used mercilessly and sanded a c=
ouple of thousand feet of fascia, ground off concrete to smooth it, and I d=
on't think it has ever had anything finer than 80 grit on the pad. Still r=
uns great, love the 8' cord and the reliability. =20
I have a 4" square pad sander, and it has just finished all the rough/mediu=
m sanding on its second full set of kitchen cabinets. I use it to sand all=
the doors on both sides, the interior of the cabinets (hello oatmeal board=
!) and then the rails and stiles. When hooked up to a shop vac it had real=
ly good dust collection, and it even came with a template to use if you wan=
t to make your own sandpaper with the correct hole position for dust collec=
tion.
I would buy both of those sanders and my little 12v drill again if they onl=
y had a one year warranty.
Their other tools don't have comfortable grips for me, and now in my 40th y=
ear of construction work I prize a comfy tool as much as good performance. =
There are times I drive a few hundred screws a day, so the tool grip has t=
o be good in the hand. I am drilling almost 300 holes tomorrow and driving=
300 screws to hang the kitchen doors and put new slides on drawers in the =
kitchen I just refinished. 600 operations with the drills if I don't have =
to rehang and refit to get the job I want! That's a lot of holes and a lot =
of screws to handle accurately so a good feel is important.
Strangely, I rarely see Ridgid out on the job. It seems there are three ki=
nds of hands on working contractors these days, and usually they are a hybr=
id mix of these: 1) guys that buy just enough tool to get the job done 2) =
guys that buy nice tools and don't loan them or lend them even to their fel=
low workers and 3) the guys that buy pretty good tools knowing the life spa=
n of a tool on the job site.
Someway, for my fellow contractors, Ridgid didn't hit the sweet spot anywhe=
re with them.
Robert=20
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 6:32:09 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message=20
> news:[email protected]...
>=20
> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told m=
e=20
> that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty=
=20
> resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for=
=20
> store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say=
=20
> (their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off=
=20
> center. It worked!
>=20
> And those magic words were...?? Did they include "straight razor" and=20
> "cojones"?
>=20
> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>=20
> I'm glad your problems were resolved. Is the store manager still intact?
LOL, gotta chuckle out of that. I was quite nice to him actually. I told =
him that I knew he was new manager to the store with only 6 months under hi=
s belt and that I knew he had a lot to deal with tending to so many "proble=
m" employees.
I told him what went on at the store, and he was fairly concerned. I then =
told him that I knew that a man as busy as he was sorting out his store wid=
e problems might not have a chance to tend to my small one. So to take the=
problem off his back, I offered to call the national contractor's line in =
GA and tell them about our conversation, then go over the customer service =
issues in the store and we could see how they thought best to handle my dri=
ll problem.
That way (I theorized out loud), if they wanted to write up his customer se=
rvice staff for lack of performance he wouldn't get any blame himself for f=
orced employee discipline other than the fact that all store activity was h=
is responsibility. I offered the idea that it was possible that since he h=
ad only been there six months they might give him a pass on his inability t=
o get his employees to do their job properly. As an added note, I added th=
at after a bit of consideration I thought contacting the national desk was =
the thing to do as they might be able to give him some much needed manageri=
al guidance on his employees if they had the signal that they were a bit ou=
t of control.
After some thoughtful remarks from him, he assured me that he could take ca=
re of it himself on a local level and there was NO REASON AT ALL to call th=
e national contractor desk. I told him... no problem at all on my part as =
I could call them on the way to the next job. In a way, I told him I thoug=
ht that having me call might actually be doing him a favor as it could help=
corral some of his bad employees without getting his hands dirty. No favo=
rs wanted, needed, or requested he adamantly told me. =20
It was all pretty pleasant, really. But he actually looked pretty upset wh=
en I left. But a few days later, I had batteries on my front porch at my h=
ouse. So I guess we all stayed friends. ;^)
Robert
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 4:06:34 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 3/10/2015 2:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrot=
e:
> >> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladd=
ers, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, =
misplaced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warr=
anty issues.
> >>
> >> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 y=
ears ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work=
as they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, =
and they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer=
hardware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine=
little drills.
> >>
> >> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instruc=
ted and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make hi=
s determination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion =
as to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him =
a month in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warran=
ty, it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair=
depot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly shi=
p new ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole pr=
ocess could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did=
a cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the ol=
d drills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new t=
est charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue ne=
eded more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was=
at the monkey cage at t
> he zoo...)
> >>
> >> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They tol=
d me that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warra=
nty resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them f=
or store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say =
(their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off ce=
nter. It worked!
> >>
> >> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my ha=
nds in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
> >>
> >> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 day=
s or there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to =
register, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. =
They didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens af=
ter the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone cou=
ld change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without h=
aving bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go=
the website and register.
> >>
> >> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. =
They lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me t=
hat I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a pr=
eviously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So t=
oday, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the=
half hour.
> >>
> >> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will hon=
or their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as w=
ell as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will w=
arrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor us=
e.
> >>
> >> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back=
!
> >>
> >> Robert
> >
> > As long as we are propping up Home Depot...
> >
> > A few weeks ago I went to a local HD and parked in a spot where there w=
ere no other vehicles or carts or anything nearby. When I came out I saw th=
at one of these carts was about 3" from the driver's side fender.
> >
> > http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4109/5606502231_d744d28f7e_z.jpg
> >
> > After closer inspection I found a small dent and some orange paint on m=
y fender, at the exact height of the corner of the cart.
> >
> > I went inside, found a manager, and asked him to come outside. He looke=
d at the situation and told me that he would file a report. He noted that 9=
0% of parking lot damage claims are denied, but this one looked like a no b=
rainer and that he would say so in his report.
> >
> > About 2 weeks later I got a call from some firm representing Home Depot=
and was asked a few questions about the incident. They promised to get bac=
k to me in a few days, which they did. It is now my responsibility to submi=
t 2 estimates to have the damage repaired. The representative promised that=
Home Depot will pay the lower of the 2 estimates.
> >
> > My plan is to go to 2 dealer body shops, where I assume I will get the =
highest estimates.
> >
> Don't assume the dealer body shop will be the higher estimate. Most all=
=20
> body shops are governed by what the insurance companies are willing to=20
> pay so they compete in that regard. If you intend to actually use the=
=20
> money to repair the dent you want to get the estimates from the body=20
> shops with the best reputations.
Here are the 6 estimates that I received for the fender damage that occurre=
d in the Home Depot parking lot. The vehicle involved is a Honda Odyssey.
All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
- Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
- Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
- The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have, pict=
ures of the damage
$546 - Honda Dealer
$534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
$491 - Chevrolet Dealer
$485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
$479 - Independent Collision Shop=20
$456 - Independent Collision Shop
Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the "pain=
t-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that it might=
be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more expensive old-sch=
ool repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and then explore other o=
ptions. No problem." He then provided an R&I repair estimate similar to al=
l the rest.
I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
[email protected] wrote:
> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will
> honor their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work
> for it as well as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the
> only guys that will warrant tools for more than a few months (most
> not at all) for contractor use.
>
> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills
> back!
--------------------------------------------------
Since you have learned how long it takes to get a warranty
claim resolved, a suggestion.
Next time they have a sale buy a spare unit complete with
batteries and stash the whole thing behind a box of your
favorite stogies.
That way, you're covered when a primary unit craps out and you
need to stay in production.
SFWIW, that's what I did when I bought an 18VDC, H/F unit.
A spare battery was going to be about $13-$14 and a complete
unit was less than $17.
It was a no brainer.
Have fun.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote:
I remember when you were talking about the HF drill here. Buying a
second one made perfect sense. If the drill quits, you have another,
and likewise with the battery. How do you like the HF drill? Get
good service from it?
--------------------------------------------------------
Right now those drills are functioning as a set of matched
bookends.
Will try cleaning the grill with a synthetic brush in a few weeks.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote:
I told him what went on at the store, and he was fairly concerned. I
then told him that I knew that a man as busy as he was sorting out his
store wide problems might not have a chance to tend to my small one.
So to take the problem off his back, I offered to call the national
contractor's line in GA and tell them about our conversation, then go
over the customer service issues in the store and we could see how
they thought best to handle my drill problem.
That way (I theorized out loud), if they wanted to write up his
customer service staff for lack of performance he wouldn't get any
blame himself for forced employee discipline other than the fact that
all store activity was his responsibility. I offered the idea that it
was possible that since he had only been there six months they might
give him a pass on his inability to get his employees to do their job
properly. As an added note, I added that after a bit of consideration
I thought contacting the national desk was the thing to do as they
might be able to give him some much needed managerial guidance on his
employees if they had the signal that they were a bit out of control.
After some thoughtful remarks from him, he assured me that he could
take care of it himself on a local level and there was NO REASON AT
ALL to call the national contractor desk. I told him... no problem at
all on my part as I could call them on the way to the next job. In a
way, I told him I thought that having me call might actually be doing
him a favor as it could help corral some of his bad employees without
getting his hands dirty. No favors wanted, needed, or requested he
adamantly told me.
It was all pretty pleasant, really. But he actually looked pretty
upset when I left. But a few days later, I had batteries on my front
porch at my house. So I guess we all stayed friends. ;^)
-----------------------------------------------
You silvered tongue'd devil.
Bet you're still grinnin<G>
Lew
On 03/13/2015 03:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>>>
>>> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>>> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
>>> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have, pictures of the damage
>>>
>>> $546 - Honda Dealer
>>> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>>> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>>> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>>> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>>> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>
>>> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>>>
>>> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>>>
>>
>> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
>> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
>> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
>> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
>> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>>
>
> Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've been dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes, accidents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a car reported "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end suspension and then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found about 2 miles from the shop even though it was undriveable because they had taken the front suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I could never prove that they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc. were all smashed. It looked as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing enough damage for the Ins Co to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was the only way to move the vehicle from the shop to where it was found, it was a perfect plan on their part. Wreck the car, tow it off of their property and then report it stolen, all because they could not fix it.
>
> Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old 1966 Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. ;-)
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZqWX4VNaI
>
> Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered me $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came back with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I could find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home Depot.
>
>> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
>> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
>
> I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
>
> I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and treat SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car she bought yesterday.
>
> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
>
> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
>
No wonder insurance rates are what they are!
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladders=
, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, mis=
placed and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warrant=
y issues.
>=20
> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 year=
s ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work as=
they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, and=
they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer ha=
rdware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine li=
ttle drills.
>=20
> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instructed=
and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make his d=
etermination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion as =
to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him a m=
onth in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warranty,=
it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair de=
pot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly ship n=
ew ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole proce=
ss could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did a =
cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the old d=
rills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new test=
charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue neede=
d more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was at=
the monkey cage at the zoo...)
>=20
> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told m=
e that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty=
resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for =
store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say (th=
eir corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off cente=
r. It worked!
>=20
> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my hands =
in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
>=20
> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 days o=
r there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to reg=
ister, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. Th=
ey didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens after=
the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone could =
change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without havi=
ng bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go th=
e website and register.
>=20
> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. The=
y lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me that=
I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a previ=
ously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So toda=
y, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the ha=
lf hour.
>=20
> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor =
their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as well=
as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will warr=
ant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
>=20
> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>=20
> Robert
I'm curious as to why they replaced the batteries under warranty. If I unde=
rstand the terms of the warranty correctly, wouldn't "dead batteries" after=
4 -5 years of use be excluded due to the "normal wear and tear" clause?
Here are a few of excerpts from their warranty website.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/full-lifetime-warranty
*** Begin Included Text ***
What is Covered
RIDGID tools are warranted to be free of material and workmanship defects.
What is Not Covered
Failures due to misuse, abuse or normal wear and tear are not covered by th=
is warranty.=20
DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP:
It is our experience that a product that fails prematurely due to a manufac=
turing defect in materials or workmanship, will generally do so very early =
in the products life cycle, often the first or second time the product is u=
sed. When returned for inspection, these products are generally found to st=
ill be in like new condition and show very little signs of use. It is uncom=
mon for a product that was manufactured with a defect, to survive under nor=
mal use for any extended period of time. Products that are returned for war=
ranty inspection after months or years of continuous reliable service are r=
arely found to be defective. The most common demand for service is the resu=
lt of normal wear and tear issues, which are not considered to be a defect =
in materials or workmanship.
*** End Included Text ***
Can a dead battery really be considered "defective" after 4-5 years of "con=
tinuous reliable service"?
On 3/15/2015 10:57 PM, Leon wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>
>>>> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>>>>
>>>> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>>>> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
>>>> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have,
>>>> pictures of the damage
>>>>
>>>> $546 - Honda Dealer
>>>> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>>>> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>>>> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>>>> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>>
>>>> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the
>>>> "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that
>>>> it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more
>>>> expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and
>>>> then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I
>>>> repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>>>>
>>>> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
>>> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
>>> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
>>> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
>>> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>>>
>>
>> Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've
>> been dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes,
>> accidents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a
>> car reported "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end
>> suspension and then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found
>> about 2 miles from the shop even though it was undriveable because they
>> had taken the front suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I
>> could never prove that they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc.
>> were all smashed. It looked as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing
>> enough damage for the Ins Co to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was
>> the only way to move the vehicle from the shop to where it was found, it
>> was a perfect plan on their part. Wreck the car, tow it off of their
>> property and then report it stolen, all because they could not fix it.
>>
>> Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old
>> 1966 Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. ;-)
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZqWX4VNaI
>>
>> Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered
>> me $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came
>> back with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I
>> could find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home Depot.
>>
>>> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
>>> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
>>
>> I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
>>
>> I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and
>> treat SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car she bought yesterday.
>>
>> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks
>> like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
>>
>> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
>
> There are pro's that can repair dents inexpensively with out the need for
> reprinting.
>
Repainting
On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 10:14:37 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 3/19/2015 12:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> > On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 3:27:10 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> Well then, I'd say they are definitely streamlining the process,
> >> due in part, no doubt, to the complaints about "hoops" through which t=
o
> >> jump. :-)
> >
> > Sounds a lot smoother and easier than when I first registered my drills=
. That was (according to them) late 2007 or so. They had a major software=
change and data transfer to start up a new system somewhere just after tha=
t where the I had to go to the website and register a new password and veri=
fy all my registration info was still there. It was.
> >
> > Like you, I have a few Ridgid tools and they have turned out to be real=
workhorses. I have two 5" ROSs, one for inside and one for outside. As I=
have posted before, the outside model has been used mercilessly and sanded=
a couple of thousand feet of fascia, ground off concrete to smooth it, and=
I don't think it has ever had anything finer than 80 grit on the pad. Sti=
ll runs great, love the 8' cord and the reliability.
> >
> > I have a 4" square pad sander, and it has just finished all the rough/m=
edium sanding on its second full set of kitchen cabinets. I use it to sand=
all the doors on both sides, the interior of the cabinets (hello oatmeal b=
oard!) and then the rails and stiles. When hooked up to a shop vac it had =
really good dust collection, and it even came with a template to use if you=
want to make your own sandpaper with the correct hole position for dust co=
llection.
> >
> > I would buy both of those sanders and my little 12v drill again if they=
only had a one year warranty.
> >
> > Their other tools don't have comfortable grips for me, and now in my 40=
th year of construction work I prize a comfy tool as much as good performan=
ce. There are times I drive a few hundred screws a day, so the tool grip h=
as to be good in the hand. I am drilling almost 300 holes tomorrow and dri=
ving 300 screws to hang the kitchen doors and put new slides on drawers in =
the kitchen I just refinished. 600 operations with the drills if I don't h=
ave to rehang and refit to get the job I want! That's a lot of holes and a =
lot of screws to handle accurately so a good feel is important.
> >
> > Strangely, I rarely see Ridgid out on the job. It seems there are thre=
e kinds of hands on working contractors these days, and usually they are a =
hybrid mix of these: 1) guys that buy just enough tool to get the job done=
2) guys that buy nice tools and don't loan them or lend them even to their=
fellow workers and 3) the guys that buy pretty good tools knowing the life=
span of a tool on the job site.
> >
> > Someway, for my fellow contractors, Ridgid didn't hit the sweet spot an=
ywhere with them.
> >
> > Robert
> >
> With all due respect...;~) You are a big boy! I considered a Ridgid=20
> drill several years ago and felt that the only down fall was that they=20
> were Heavy. Your coworkers and contractors may feel the same way.
> It is probably your manly muscle bound hands and arms shield you from=20
> the drawback of heavy tools. ;~)
I can't speak to the Ridgid tool weight of earlier versions, or compared it=
to other models available today, but compared to the DeWalt 18V DC970K tha=
t I have been using for the past many years, the Ridgid set that I just pur=
chased is much smaller and lighter. Granted, the DeWalt has huge NiCAD batt=
eries, which add to the weight and size.
On the other hand, the DeWalt radio is huge and heavy compared to the Ridgi=
d radio, but the Ridgid radio absolutely S*U*C*K*S compared to the DeWalt r=
adio.
I'll take the size, weight and durability of this...
http://adventuresofacouponista.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Dewalt-Radio-=
1024x1024.jpg
...over the sound of this, every day of the week:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/32/320a1127-87d6-440f-bc=
5f-4c6eb644c7ae_300.jpg
In addition, the DeWalt radio charges the battery if plugged into AC. The R=
idgid radio is battery only. If you need to charge one of the Ridgid batter=
ies while using the other one, you lose your tunes/sports.
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 2:35:54 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> I remember when you were talking about the HF drill here. Buying a=20
> second one made perfect sense. If the drill quits, you have another,=20
> and likewise with the battery. How do you like the HF drill? Get=20
> good service from it?
> --------------------------------------------------------
> Right now those drills are functioning as a set of matched
> bookends.
>=20
> Will try cleaning the grill with a synthetic brush in a few weeks.
>=20
> Lew
Well, that's good to hear. As has been discussed/cussed here, in my opinio=
n it seems that the quality of HF tools is going up and the quality of the =
rest of the guys is going down. I don't see how you could beat the drill d=
eal that you got. Looking forward to what you have to say after putting it=
to the test cleaning your grill.
Robert
On 3/10/2015 2:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladders, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, misplaced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warranty issues.
>>
>> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 years ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work as they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, and they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer hardware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine little drills.
>>
>> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instructed and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make his determination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion as to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him a month in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warranty, it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair depot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly ship new ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole process could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did a cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the old drills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new test charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue needed more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was at the monkey cage at t
he zoo...)
>>
>> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told me that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say (their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off center. It worked!
>>
>> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my hands in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
>>
>> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 days or there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to register, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. They didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens after the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone could change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without having bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go the website and register.
>>
>> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. They lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me that I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a previously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So today, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the half hour.
>>
>> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as well as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will warrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
>>
>> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>>
>> Robert
>
> As long as we are propping up Home Depot...
>
> A few weeks ago I went to a local HD and parked in a spot where there were no other vehicles or carts or anything nearby. When I came out I saw that one of these carts was about 3" from the driver's side fender.
>
> http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4109/5606502231_d744d28f7e_z.jpg
>
> After closer inspection I found a small dent and some orange paint on my fender, at the exact height of the corner of the cart.
>
> I went inside, found a manager, and asked him to come outside. He looked at the situation and told me that he would file a report. He noted that 90% of parking lot damage claims are denied, but this one looked like a no brainer and that he would say so in his report.
>
> About 2 weeks later I got a call from some firm representing Home Depot and was asked a few questions about the incident. They promised to get back to me in a few days, which they did. It is now my responsibility to submit 2 estimates to have the damage repaired. The representative promised that Home Depot will pay the lower of the 2 estimates.
>
> My plan is to go to 2 dealer body shops, where I assume I will get the highest estimates.
>
Don't assume the dealer body shop will be the higher estimate. Most all
body shops are governed by what the insurance companies are willing to
pay so they compete in that regard. If you intend to actually use the
money to repair the dent you want to get the estimates from the body
shops with the best reputations.
On Tue, 17 Mar 2015 00:12:55 -0500, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
><[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 08:40:05 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 3/15/2015 10:57 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>>>>>>> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
>>>>>>> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have,
>>>>>>> pictures of the damage
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> $546 - Honda Dealer
>>>>>>> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>>>>>>> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>>>>>>> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>>>>>>> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>>>>> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the
>>>>>>> "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that
>>>>>>> it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more
>>>>>>> expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and
>>>>>>> then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I
>>>>>>> repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
>>>>>> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
>>>>>> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
>>>>>> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
>>>>>> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've
>>>>> been dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes,
>>>>> accidents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a
>>>>> car reported "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end
>>>>> suspension and then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found
>>>>> about 2 miles from the shop even though it was undriveable because they
>>>>> had taken the front suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I
>>>>> could never prove that they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc.
>>>>> were all smashed. It looked as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing
>>>>> enough damage for the Ins Co to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was
>>>>> the only way to move the vehicle from the shop to where it was found, it
>>>>> was a perfect plan on their part. Wreck the car, tow it off of their
>>>>> property and then report it stolen, all because they could not fix it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old
>>>>> 1966 Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZqWX4VNaI
>>>>>
>>>>> Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered
>>>>> me $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came
>>>>> back with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I
>>>>> could find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home Depot.
>>>>>
>>>>>> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
>>>>>> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
>>>>>
>>>>> I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
>>>>>
>>>>> I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and
>>>>> treat SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car
>>>>> she bought yesterday.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks
>>>>> like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
>>>>>
>>>>> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
>>>>
>>>> There are pro's that can repair dents inexpensively with out the need for
>>>> reprinting.
>>>>
>>> Repainting
>>
>> As long as the paint is intact. If it's scratched or cracked, all
>> bets are off.
>
>Scratches are ok if not through to the metal, they can be rubber or
>polished out.
It's really easy if they're rubber. ;-)
If the clear coat is busted they can't just be polished out.
On 3/17/2015 8:23 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladders, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, misplaced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warranty issues.
>>
>> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 years ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work as they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, and they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer hardware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine little drills.
>>
>> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instructed and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make his determination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion as to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him a month in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warranty, it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair depot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly ship new ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole process could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did a cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the old drills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new test charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue needed more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was at the monkey cage at t
he zoo...)
>>
>> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told me that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say (their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off center. It worked!
>>
>> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my hands in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
>>
>> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 days or there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to register, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. They didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens after the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone could change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without having bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go the website and register.
>>
>> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. They lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me that I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a previously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So today, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the half hour.
>>
>> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as well as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will warrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
>>
>> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>>
>> Robert
>
> I'm curious as to why they replaced the batteries under warranty. If I understand the terms of the warranty correctly, wouldn't "dead batteries" after 4 -5 years of use be excluded due to the "normal wear and tear" clause?
>
> Here are a few of excerpts from their warranty website.
>
> https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/full-lifetime-warranty
>
> *** Begin Included Text ***
>
> What is Covered
>
> RIDGID tools are warranted to be free of material and workmanship defects.
>
> What is Not Covered
>
> Failures due to misuse, abuse or normal wear and tear are not covered by this warranty.
>
> DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP:
>
> It is our experience that a product that fails prematurely due to a manufacturing defect in materials or workmanship, will generally do so very early in the products life cycle, often the first or second time the product is used. When returned for inspection, these products are generally found to still be in like new condition and show very little signs of use. It is uncommon for a product that was manufactured with a defect, to survive under normal use for any extended period of time. Products that are returned for warranty inspection after months or years of continuous reliable service are rarely found to be defective. The most common demand for service is the result of normal wear and tear issues, which are not considered to be a defect in materials or workmanship.
>
> *** End Included Text ***
>
> Can a dead battery really be considered "defective" after 4-5 years of "continuous reliable service"?
>
Absolutely If it has a lifetime warranty and fails under normal use it
would be defective. If it had a 3 year warranty it would not be
defective after 4~5 years. The warranty pretty much spells out what is
considered defective.
On 3/13/2015 5:01 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>>
>> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of
>> the two
>> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have,
>> pictures of the damage
>>
>> $546 - Honda Dealer
>> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>>
>> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the
>> "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him
>> that it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more
>> expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first
>> and then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I
>> repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>>
>> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>>
>
> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>
> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
My experience is that the dealer is the worst place to bring the car.
Bring it to a good shop.
--
Jeff
On 3/11/2015 10:36 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 11, 2015 at 12:28:36 AM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I told him what went on at the store, and he was fairly concerned. I
>> then told him that I knew that a man as busy as he was sorting out his
>> store wide problems might not have a chance to tend to my small one.
>> So to take the problem off his back, I offered to call the national
>> contractor's line in GA and tell them about our conversation, then go
>> over the customer service issues in the store and we could see how
>> they thought best to handle my drill problem.
>>
>> That way (I theorized out loud), if they wanted to write up his
>> customer service staff for lack of performance he wouldn't get any
>> blame himself for forced employee discipline other than the fact that
>> all store activity was his responsibility. I offered the idea that it
>> was possible that since he had only been there six months they might
>> give him a pass on his inability to get his employees to do their job
>> properly. As an added note, I added that after a bit of consideration
>> I thought contacting the national desk was the thing to do as they
>> might be able to give him some much needed managerial guidance on his
>> employees if they had the signal that they were a bit out of control.
>>
>> After some thoughtful remarks from him, he assured me that he could
>> take care of it himself on a local level and there was NO REASON AT
>> ALL to call the national contractor desk. I told him... no problem at
>> all on my part as I could call them on the way to the next job. In a
>> way, I told him I thought that having me call might actually be doing
>> him a favor as it could help corral some of his bad employees without
>> getting his hands dirty. No favors wanted, needed, or requested he
>> adamantly told me.
>>
>> It was all pretty pleasant, really. But he actually looked pretty
>> upset when I left. But a few days later, I had batteries on my front
>> porch at my house. So I guess we all stayed friends. ;^)
>> -----------------------------------------------
>> You silvered tongue'd devil.
>>
>> Bet you're still grinnin<G>
>>
>> Lew
>
> Yeah... a little bit!
>
> Years ago I got tired of being the only guy upset with my problems. This is a much better way for me to handle things to keep my blood pressure in check and have a bit of fun at the other guy's expense.
>
> Robert
>
One thing nice with becoming older, you learn how to fineness the crowd
a bit better. ;~)
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:07:12 AM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> Since you have learned how long it takes to get a warranty
> claim resolved, a suggestion.
>=20
> Next time they have a sale buy a spare unit complete with
> batteries and stash the whole thing behind a box of your
> favorite stogies.
Well, if I put it by my favorite stogies, I certainly wouldn't misplace the=
m! Sadly, they don't put the Ridgid brand name on sale unless they have a =
new model of a tool, or a they are introducing a new tool.
Their tools used to be a bit less expensive than the brands like DeWalt, Ma=
kita and Bosch, but no longer so. But those guys can't touch the Ridgid war=
ranty, so at their price they make the Ridgid brand a good deal. I have a =
4" pad sander, and two 5" ROS machines I can't kill. Those 5" sander have =
ground down several hundred feet of fascia to prepare them for painting. P=
ut that 60 grit pad on then and you make short work of chipping paint.
=20
> That way, you're covered when a primary unit craps out and you
> need to stay in production.
Whereas I bought my two drills with two batteries for $99 with a charger, t=
hey sell the drill kit with one battery and the charger (just one drill, I =
got a pair with two batteries) for $99.
>=20
> SFWIW, that's what I did when I bought an 18VDC, H/F unit.
>=20
> A spare battery was going to be about $13-$14 and a complete
> unit was less than $17.
>=20
> It was a no brainer.
I remember when you were talking about the HF drill here. Buying a second =
one made perfect sense. If the drill quits, you have another, and likewise=
with the battery. How do you like the HF drill? Get good service from it=
?
Robert
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladders=
, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, mis=
placed and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warrant=
y issues.
>=20
> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 year=
s ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work as=
they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, and=
they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer ha=
rdware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine li=
ttle drills.
>=20
> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instructed=
and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make his d=
etermination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion as =
to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him a m=
onth in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warranty,=
it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair de=
pot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly ship n=
ew ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole proce=
ss could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did a =
cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the old d=
rills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new test=
charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue neede=
d more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was at=
the monkey cage at the zoo...)
>=20
> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told m=
e that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty=
resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for =
store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say (th=
eir corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off cente=
r. It worked!
>=20
> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my hands =
in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
>=20
> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 days o=
r there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to reg=
ister, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. Th=
ey didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens after=
the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone could =
change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without havi=
ng bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go th=
e website and register.
>=20
> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. The=
y lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me that=
I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a previ=
ously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So toda=
y, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the ha=
lf hour.
>=20
> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor =
their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as well=
as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will warr=
ant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
>=20
> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>=20
> Robert
As long as we are propping up Home Depot...
A few weeks ago I went to a local HD and parked in a spot where there were =
no other vehicles or carts or anything nearby. When I came out I saw that o=
ne of these carts was about 3" from the driver's side fender.
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4109/5606502231_d744d28f7e_z.jpg
After closer inspection I found a small dent and some orange paint on my fe=
nder, at the exact height of the corner of the cart.
I went inside, found a manager, and asked him to come outside. He looked at=
the situation and told me that he would file a report. He noted that 90% o=
f parking lot damage claims are denied, but this one looked like a no brain=
er and that he would say so in his report.
About 2 weeks later I got a call from some firm representing Home Depot and=
was asked a few questions about the incident. They promised to get back to=
me in a few days, which they did. It is now my responsibility to submit 2 =
estimates to have the damage repaired. The representative promised that Hom=
e Depot will pay the lower of the 2 estimates.
My plan is to go to 2 dealer body shops, where I assume I will get the high=
est estimates.
On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 2:52:16 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
=20
> Apparently, that is not the case. Please see my earlier response to MM. I=
have since learned that there is a difference between Rigid's "Full Lifeti=
me Warranty" and their "Lifetime Service Agreement". The warranty doesn't c=
over normal wear and tear, but the "Service Agreement" does.
>=20
> I was mistaken when I said I was curious as to why the batteries would be=
covered under the Lifetime Warranty. They weren't. They were covered under=
the Lifetime Service Agreement because they were eligible for that coverag=
e and properly registered by the original purchaser.
>=20
> That explains why Ridgid has different pages for the "Full Lifetime Warra=
nty" and the "Lifetime Service Agreement". They are not the same thing.
You got it.
When you buy their tools, it is important to recognize which warranty you a=
re getting and what is covered. When I bought those two drills year ago I =
asked my commercial rep over and over if the batteries were covered and he =
always said "yes". He showed me the warranty, and it clearly stated that t=
hey were.=20
Note that any kind of misuse or abuse negates both of the warranties were a=
re speaking of from Ridgid. So (as they told me on the national hotline) i=
f you take a tool to them that has had the hell beat out of it, they don't =
have to cover it.
My commercial rep told me that HD intended to back their product, but they =
were counting on (as do all manufacturers) that most tools wouldn't be regi=
stered at all, registered incorrectly, or not in time. How many have put o=
ff registering because they knew they had 3 months, then forgot about it? =
=20
Then the registration process at that time required that you actually cut t=
he UPC bar code off the box and send it in with your registration request. =
They sent me an email that told me my account was ready to go, then I regi=
stered everything online. I don't know how they do it now, but I am sure t=
hey still make it a bit of a task.
Lastly, how many folks would need or take advantage of their warranty? If =
a homeowner feels they have gotten a good tool's worth of work out of a too=
l, likely they will just buy the newest, latest and greatest. Some folks j=
ust don't feel like the warranties are worth fooling with.
HD does make it easy, though. You can simply drop off you HD registered too=
l at any HD and they will fill out the paperwork with you, including a pape=
r that says you will allow them to repair the tool for a fee if there is ab=
use or excessive wear determined, and you drive away. They will pack, ship=
, and eat the receive on their nickel if they fing the tool qualifies for w=
arranty.
Overall, I am pretty happy has I have my two little drills back. I have a =
few over fifty overlay cabinet hinges to install today along with a few set=
s of drawer slides. With one drill set up to drill pilot holes and the oth=
er driving the hinge screws it moves along nicely.
Robert
On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 07:57:57 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 10:14:37 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/19/2015 12:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> > On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 3:27:10 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> >> Well then, I'd say they are definitely streamlining the process,
>> >> due in part, no doubt, to the complaints about "hoops" through which to
>> >> jump. :-)
>> >
>> > Sounds a lot smoother and easier than when I first registered my drills. That was (according to them) late 2007 or so. They had a major software change and data transfer to start up a new system somewhere just after that where the I had to go to the website and register a new password and verify all my registration info was still there. It was.
>> >
>> > Like you, I have a few Ridgid tools and they have turned out to be real workhorses. I have two 5" ROSs, one for inside and one for outside. As I have posted before, the outside model has been used mercilessly and sanded a couple of thousand feet of fascia, ground off concrete to smooth it, and I don't think it has ever had anything finer than 80 grit on the pad. Still runs great, love the 8' cord and the reliability.
>> >
>> > I have a 4" square pad sander, and it has just finished all the rough/medium sanding on its second full set of kitchen cabinets. I use it to sand all the doors on both sides, the interior of the cabinets (hello oatmeal board!) and then the rails and stiles. When hooked up to a shop vac it had really good dust collection, and it even came with a template to use if you want to make your own sandpaper with the correct hole position for dust collection.
>> >
>> > I would buy both of those sanders and my little 12v drill again if they only had a one year warranty.
>> >
>> > Their other tools don't have comfortable grips for me, and now in my 40th year of construction work I prize a comfy tool as much as good performance. There are times I drive a few hundred screws a day, so the tool grip has to be good in the hand. I am drilling almost 300 holes tomorrow and driving 300 screws to hang the kitchen doors and put new slides on drawers in the kitchen I just refinished. 600 operations with the drills if I don't have to rehang and refit to get the job I want! That's a lot of holes and a lot of screws to handle accurately so a good feel is important.
>> >
>> > Strangely, I rarely see Ridgid out on the job. It seems there are three kinds of hands on working contractors these days, and usually they are a hybrid mix of these: 1) guys that buy just enough tool to get the job done 2) guys that buy nice tools and don't loan them or lend them even to their fellow workers and 3) the guys that buy pretty good tools knowing the life span of a tool on the job site.
>> >
>> > Someway, for my fellow contractors, Ridgid didn't hit the sweet spot anywhere with them.
>> >
>> > Robert
>> >
>> With all due respect...;~) You are a big boy! I considered a Ridgid
>> drill several years ago and felt that the only down fall was that they
>> were Heavy. Your coworkers and contractors may feel the same way.
>> It is probably your manly muscle bound hands and arms shield you from
>> the drawback of heavy tools. ;~)
>
>I can't speak to the Ridgid tool weight of earlier versions, or compared it to other models available today, but compared to the DeWalt 18V DC970K that I have been using for the past many years, the Ridgid set that I just purchased is much smaller and lighter. Granted, the DeWalt has huge NiCAD batteries, which add to the weight and size.
>
>On the other hand, the DeWalt radio is huge and heavy compared to the Ridgid radio, but the Ridgid radio absolutely S*U*C*K*S compared to the DeWalt radio.
Amazing. I can't imagine a radio worse than my DeWalt. I use it only
for playing MP3s (and haven't done that in a few years). In fact,
it's so bad I replaced it with a Bosch (also way overpriced).
>I'll take the size, weight and durability of this...
>
>http://adventuresofacouponista.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Dewalt-Radio-1024x1024.jpg
>
>...over the sound of this, every day of the week:
>
>http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/32/320a1127-87d6-440f-bc5f-4c6eb644c7ae_300.jpg
>
>In addition, the DeWalt radio charges the battery if plugged into AC. The Ridgid radio is battery only. If you need to charge one of the Ridgid batteries while using the other one, you lose your tunes/sports.
On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 5:54:54 PM UTC-4, Mike Marlow wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>=20
> >
> > On the other hand, the DeWalt radio is huge and heavy compared to the
> > Ridgid radio, but the Ridgid radio absolutely S*U*C*K*S compared to
> > the DeWalt radio.
> >
>=20
> I think my Ridgid radio sucks too, but then again - it came in the kit. =
I=20
> would never intentionally buy a tool for a damned radio. I think it was =
the=20
> most stupid of additions to this kits. If I want tunes, I'll go out and =
buy=20
> tunes - when I buy tools, I want tools. They could have left this right =
out=20
> of the box in my opinion.
>=20
I agree. I bought the Ridgid kit because it was on sale, it just happened t=
o come with the radio.
The DeWalt radio was bought way after I bought the drill. It was offered as=
a "reburbished tool only" deal. Since it ran on the 18v batteries and char=
ged them as well, it was a good deal. I use it all the time - picnics, yard=
work, building projects, etc. I can't imagine how many hours I have on it,=
probably even more than the drill. :-)
So, just like you "If I want tunes, I'll go out and buy tunes - when I buy=
tools, I want tools." The Ridgid radio is going to get recycled the next t=
ime I dropped off some other electronic trash.
On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 9:36:06 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/13/15 5:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> >
> > http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
> >
> >
> Man, I'd send them the quotes and tell them you'd settle for 500 bucks
> on a Home Depot gift card! I bet they'd jump at that knowing they're
> getting it all back. :-)
>
>
Why would I do that when they've already committed to sending me a check for the lowest of the 2 estimates that I submit?
On Fri, 13 Mar 2015 15:45:40 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 5:01:29 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>> > All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>> >
>> > - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
>> > - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
>> > - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have, pictures of the damage
>> >
>> > $546 - Honda Dealer
>> > $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
>> > $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
>> > $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
>> > $479 - Independent Collision Shop
>> > $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>> >
>> > Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>> >
>> > I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>> >
>>
>> Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
>> the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
>> not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
>> Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
>> dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
>>
>
>Thanks for the advice (seriously) but this is not my first rodeo. I've been dealing with Ins Co's and collision shops all my life. Deer strikes, accidents that were my fault, accidents that were not. I've even had a car reported "stolen" by a repair shop after they broke the front end suspension and then couldn't find parts to fix it. The "stolen" car found about 2 miles from the shop even though it was undriveable because they had taken the front suspension apart. These guys were good. Although I could never prove that they did it, the grill, bumper, headlights, etc. were all smashed. It looked as if a tow truck had backed into it, doing enough damage for the Ins Co to total the vehicle. Since a tow truck was the only way to move the vehicle from the shop to where it was found, it was a perfect plan on their part. Wreck the car, tow it off of their property and then report it stolen, all because they could not fix it.
>
>Trust me, no one was actually using a tow truck to steal a 15 year old 1966 Rambler Ambassador - yes, the Lay Down Rambler of Dilbert McClinton lore. ;-)
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNZqWX4VNaI
>
>Last year a storm-felled tree totaled my previous Ody. The Ins Co offered me $3300. I told them to try again and less than 24 hours later they came back with a $5200 offer, higher than any book value or on-line price I could find. That money went towards the replacement Ody that was damaged at Home Depot.
>
>> Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
>> something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
>
>I just bought this one in July...no plans to trade it in anytime soon.
>
>I may investigate the paint-less repair option or I may do nothing and treat SWMBO to a couple of car payments to ease the pain of the car she bought yesterday.
>
>BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the scratches.
>
>http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
Buy some scratch filler, at Home Depot.
On Wednesday, March 11, 2015 at 1:52:07 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
.
> One thing nice with becoming older, you learn how to fineness the crowd=
=20
> a bit better. ;~)
True. And for me, I try to figure out the best way to handle these things =
without getting myself upset, pissed off, and off the rail of concentrating=
on my jobs.
I try to always have a plan "B", and sometimes even "C" regardless of the s=
ituation. So in this case, rather than to have one of those nasty, loud ca=
ses of self righteous indignation, my plan was simple.
IF... if they were going to keep my drills for almost three months, I was r=
esigned to that. So, I figured when I went to HD to get the replacement hi=
nges I needed I would pick up a new drill, identical to my favorite. To be=
fair, I would wait until the very last minute which would have given them =
a couple of months to resolve the issue. I would use it for a couple of we=
eks as needed, then return it under their "satisfaction guarantee" policy.
Then I could comfortably wait for HD to get the new batteries to me with no=
stress on my end.
Certainly, age and experience pay off in a big way in these cases as I was =
only tense for about a day before I came up with plan "B". Once I had plan=
"B" (the drill purchase/return) then I decided to have some fun at the man=
ager's expense.
It all works out in a much easier fashion for me these days than the old "t=
hunder and lightening" days. Still, I don't always know when my cork is go=
ing to pop or what is going to do it, so I try to keep an eye on things and=
not let myself be put in a position where folks see me lose my composure. =
These days I would rather suck the lifeblood out of someone a pint at time=
and enjoy knowing they didn't push my buttons rather than to fire off a lo=
ng string of profane descriptions of certain body parts being crudely inser=
ted into other certain body parts.
And the results are actually a little better for the most part(not always)w=
hen I stay calm and figure the best approach.
Robert
On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 11:32:47 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 3/17/2015 8:23 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrot=
e:
> >> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladd=
ers, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, =
misplaced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warr=
anty issues.
> >>
> >> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 y=
ears ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work=
as they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, =
and they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer=
hardware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine=
little drills.
> >>
> >> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instruc=
ted and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make hi=
s determination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion =
as to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him =
a month in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warran=
ty, it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair=
depot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly shi=
p new ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole pr=
ocess could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did=
a cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the ol=
d drills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new t=
est charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue ne=
eded more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was=
at the monkey cage at t
> he zoo...)
> >>
> >> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They tol=
d me that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warra=
nty resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them f=
or store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say =
(their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off ce=
nter. It worked!
> >>
> >> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my ha=
nds in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
> >>
> >> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 day=
s or there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to =
register, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. =
They didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens af=
ter the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone cou=
ld change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without h=
aving bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go=
the website and register.
> >>
> >> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. =
They lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me t=
hat I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a pr=
eviously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So t=
oday, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the=
half hour.
> >>
> >> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will hon=
or their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as w=
ell as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will w=
arrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor us=
e.
> >>
> >> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back=
!
> >>
> >> Robert
> >
> > I'm curious as to why they replaced the batteries under warranty. If I =
understand the terms of the warranty correctly, wouldn't "dead batteries" a=
fter 4 -5 years of use be excluded due to the "normal wear and tear" clause=
?
> >
> > Here are a few of excerpts from their warranty website.
> >
> > https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/full-lifetime-warranty
> >
> > *** Begin Included Text ***
> >
> > What is Covered
> >
> > RIDGID tools are warranted to be free of material and workmanship defec=
ts.
> >
> > What is Not Covered
> >
> > Failures due to misuse, abuse or normal wear and tear are not covered b=
y this warranty.
> >
> > DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP:
> >
> > It is our experience that a product that fails prematurely due to a man=
ufacturing defect in materials or workmanship, will generally do so very ea=
rly in the products life cycle, often the first or second time the product =
is used. When returned for inspection, these products are generally found t=
o still be in like new condition and show very little signs of use. It is u=
ncommon for a product that was manufactured with a defect, to survive under=
normal use for any extended period of time. Products that are returned for=
warranty inspection after months or years of continuous reliable service a=
re rarely found to be defective. The most common demand for service is the =
result of normal wear and tear issues, which are not considered to be a def=
ect in materials or workmanship.
> >
> > *** End Included Text ***
> >
> > Can a dead battery really be considered "defective" after 4-5 years of =
"continuous reliable service"?
> >
> Absolutely If it has a lifetime warranty and fails under normal use it=
=20
> would be defective. If it had a 3 year warranty it would not be=20
> defective after 4~5 years. The warranty pretty much spells out what is=
=20
> considered defective.
Apparently, that is not the case. Please see my earlier response to MM. I h=
ave since learned that there is a difference between Rigid's "Full Lifetime=
Warranty" and their "Lifetime Service Agreement". The warranty doesn't cov=
er normal wear and tear, but the "Service Agreement" does.
I was mistaken when I said I was curious as to why the batteries would be c=
overed under the Lifetime Warranty. They weren't. They were covered under t=
he Lifetime Service Agreement because they were eligible for that coverage =
and properly registered by the original purchaser.
That explains why Ridgid has different pages for the "Full Lifetime Warrant=
y" and the "Lifetime Service Agreement". They are not the same thing.
On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 9:46:43 AM UTC-4, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
> > DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I'm curious as to why they replaced the batteries under warranty. If
> >> I understand the terms of the warranty correctly, wouldn't "dead
> >> batteries" after 4 -5 years of use be excluded due to the "normal
> >> wear and tear" clause?
> >>
>=20
> >
> > Though it does seem like there is a Catch-22 in the warranty
> > conditions, all I can say is that I have had my batteries both
> > replaced under warranty, after maybe 3-4 years of use. No questions
> > asked. In fact - the service center appologized that they did not
> > have the smaller batteries that my tools came with, and asked if I
> > would accept the full size batteries as the replacement battery. Gee...
> > Here is an excerpt from their warranty page that is somewhat
> > different from what you found...
> >
> > *** Begin Included Text ***
> >
> > 3-Year Limited Warranty and LSA
> > What is Covered? (applies to the 3-Year Limited Warranty, the Lifetime
> > Service Agreement, and the Recon Limited Warranty)
> >
> > The 3 Year Limited Warranty, The Recon Limited Warranty and the
> > Lifetime Service Agreement covers all worn parts in properly
> > maintained tools. This includes normal wear items such as brushes,
> > chucks, motors, switches, gears and even cordless batteries in your
> > qualifying RIDGID=AE Brand hand held and stationary power tools. These
> > programs also cover replacement rings, driver blades and bumpers on
> > RIDGID=AE Brand pneumatic tools. This service coverage does not apply
> > to other ineligible RIDGID=AE Brand products.
> > *** End Included Text ***
>=20
> BTW - when I go to my account on the Ridgid website, and display my=20
> registered tools, those that are covered by the LSA are listed, and after=
=20
> that listing there is a button that links to the warranty section. Press=
ing=20
> that button takes me to the 3 year, LSA warranty page. Not sure why they=
=20
> have the difference between this page and the "other" Lifetime warranty=
=20
> page.
>=20
You are correct, sir!
There appears to be (big) differences between Rigid's "3-year Limited Warra=
nty", their "Full Lifetime Warranty" and their "Lifetime Service Agreement"=
.
The LSA is for *eligible* products that have been registered under an indiv=
idual's name within 90 days of purchase. For example, I recently bought the=
Drill, Impact Driver & Radio combo pack. The drill, impact driver, batteri=
es and charger are *eligible* for the LSA, but the radio is not. It says ri=
ght on the registration page for the combo pack product number that the rad=
io is only eligible for the 3-year Limited Warranty.
I'll bet if we searched around, we'd find products that are covered under t=
he "Full Lifetime Warranty" but not eligible for the LSA. Those covered und=
er the "Full Lifetime Warranty" might not be repaired/replaced if they are =
simply worn out.
Mystery solved.
On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:08:28 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 2:52:16 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> =20
> > Apparently, that is not the case. Please see my earlier response to MM.=
I have since learned that there is a difference between Rigid's "Full Life=
time Warranty" and their "Lifetime Service Agreement". The warranty doesn't=
cover normal wear and tear, but the "Service Agreement" does.
> >=20
> > I was mistaken when I said I was curious as to why the batteries would =
be covered under the Lifetime Warranty. They weren't. They were covered und=
er the Lifetime Service Agreement because they were eligible for that cover=
age and properly registered by the original purchaser.
> >=20
> > That explains why Ridgid has different pages for the "Full Lifetime War=
ranty" and the "Lifetime Service Agreement". They are not the same thing.
>=20
> You got it.
>=20
> When you buy their tools, it is important to recognize which warranty you=
are getting and what is covered. When I bought those two drills year ago =
I asked my commercial rep over and over if the batteries were covered and h=
e always said "yes". He showed me the warranty, and it clearly stated that=
they were.=20
>=20
> Note that any kind of misuse or abuse negates both of the warranties were=
are speaking of from Ridgid. So (as they told me on the national hotline)=
if you take a tool to them that has had the hell beat out of it, they don'=
t have to cover it.
>=20
> My commercial rep told me that HD intended to back their product, but the=
y were counting on (as do all manufacturers) that most tools wouldn't be re=
gistered at all, registered incorrectly, or not in time. How many have put=
off registering because they knew they had 3 months, then forgot about it?=
=20
>=20
> Then the registration process at that time required that you actually cut=
the UPC bar code off the box and send it in with your registration request=
. They sent me an email that told me my account was ready to go, then I re=
gistered everything online. I don't know how they do it now, but I am sure=
they still make it a bit of a task.
>=20
The registration process was pretty simple. The instructions in the package=
said to register the serial numbers on-line, print out the completed form =
and then mail in the form, receipt and bar code. However, once you enter al=
l of the serial numbers, there is a message that says you can streamline th=
e registration process by entering the numbers under the bar code on the re=
ceipt instead of mailing the paperwork in. Only if there is a problem will =
they request that you mail in the paperwork. I've got everything ready to g=
o if they request it.
> Lastly, how many folks would need or take advantage of their warranty? I=
f a homeowner feels they have gotten a good tool's worth of work out of a t=
ool, likely they will just buy the newest, latest and greatest. Some folks=
just don't feel like the warranties are worth fooling with.
>=20
> HD does make it easy, though. You can simply drop off you HD registered t=
ool at any HD and they will fill out the paperwork with you, including a pa=
per that says you will allow them to repair the tool for a fee if there is =
abuse or excessive wear determined, and you drive away. They will pack, sh=
ip, and eat the receive on their nickel if they fing the tool qualifies for=
warranty.
>=20
> Overall, I am pretty happy has I have my two little drills back. I have =
a few over fifty overlay cabinet hinges to install today along with a few s=
ets of drawer slides. With one drill set up to drill pilot holes and the o=
ther driving the hinge screws it moves along nicely.
>=20
> Robert
On 3/19/2015 9:57 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 10:14:37 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/19/2015 12:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 3:27:10 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> Well then, I'd say they are definitely streamlining the process,
>>>> due in part, no doubt, to the complaints about "hoops" through which to
>>>> jump. :-)
>>>
>>> Sounds a lot smoother and easier than when I first registered my drills. That was (according to them) late 2007 or so. They had a major software change and data transfer to start up a new system somewhere just after that where the I had to go to the website and register a new password and verify all my registration info was still there. It was.
>>>
>>> Like you, I have a few Ridgid tools and they have turned out to be real workhorses. I have two 5" ROSs, one for inside and one for outside. As I have posted before, the outside model has been used mercilessly and sanded a couple of thousand feet of fascia, ground off concrete to smooth it, and I don't think it has ever had anything finer than 80 grit on the pad. Still runs great, love the 8' cord and the reliability.
>>>
>>> I have a 4" square pad sander, and it has just finished all the rough/medium sanding on its second full set of kitchen cabinets. I use it to sand all the doors on both sides, the interior of the cabinets (hello oatmeal board!) and then the rails and stiles. When hooked up to a shop vac it had really good dust collection, and it even came with a template to use if you want to make your own sandpaper with the correct hole position for dust collection.
>>>
>>> I would buy both of those sanders and my little 12v drill again if they only had a one year warranty.
>>>
>>> Their other tools don't have comfortable grips for me, and now in my 40th year of construction work I prize a comfy tool as much as good performance. There are times I drive a few hundred screws a day, so the tool grip has to be good in the hand. I am drilling almost 300 holes tomorrow and driving 300 screws to hang the kitchen doors and put new slides on drawers in the kitchen I just refinished. 600 operations with the drills if I don't have to rehang and refit to get the job I want! That's a lot of holes and a lot of screws to handle accurately so a good feel is important.
>>>
>>> Strangely, I rarely see Ridgid out on the job. It seems there are three kinds of hands on working contractors these days, and usually they are a hybrid mix of these: 1) guys that buy just enough tool to get the job done 2) guys that buy nice tools and don't loan them or lend them even to their fellow workers and 3) the guys that buy pretty good tools knowing the life span of a tool on the job site.
>>>
>>> Someway, for my fellow contractors, Ridgid didn't hit the sweet spot anywhere with them.
>>>
>>> Robert
>>>
>> With all due respect...;~) You are a big boy! I considered a Ridgid
>> drill several years ago and felt that the only down fall was that they
>> were Heavy. Your coworkers and contractors may feel the same way.
>> It is probably your manly muscle bound hands and arms shield you from
>> the drawback of heavy tools. ;~)
>
> I can't speak to the Ridgid tool weight of earlier versions, or compared it to other models available today, but compared to the DeWalt 18V DC970K that I have been using for the past many years, the Ridgid set that I just purchased is much smaller and lighter. Granted, the DeWalt has huge NiCAD batteries, which add to the weight and size.
>
> On the other hand, the DeWalt radio is huge and heavy compared to the Ridgid radio, but the Ridgid radio absolutely S*U*C*K*S compared to the DeWalt radio.
>
> I'll take the size, weight and durability of this...
>
> http://adventuresofacouponista.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Dewalt-Radio-1024x1024.jpg
>
> ...over the sound of this, every day of the week:
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/32/320a1127-87d6-440f-bc5f-4c6eb644c7ae_300.jpg
>
> In addition, the DeWalt radio charges the battery if plugged into AC. The Ridgid radio is battery only. If you need to charge one of the Ridgid batteries while using the other one, you lose your tunes/sports.
>
Li-Ion has made a world of difference in tool weight...
On 3/19/2015 11:37 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:14:37 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>
>> With all due respect...;~) You are a big boy! I considered a
>> Ridgid drill several years ago and felt that the only down fall was
>> that they were Heavy. Your coworkers and contractors may feel the
>> same way. It is probably your manly muscle bound hands and arms
>> shield you from the drawback of heavy tools. ;~)
>
> I am still laughing my butt off at that, Leon. And just so you will
> know, I prefer to think of myself of 280 pounds of boyish fun. :^)
We all paint an image of ourselves that borrows a lot from our youth...
then we catch a glimpse of ourselves in the mirror, coming out of the
shower, and the glass breaks. ;~)
>
> Even though I might use them all day, unless it is ridiculous, I
> never consider a tool's weight. So ya got me there. And you are
> right that my co workers and fellow contractors ARE concerned with
> tool weight and size. What a bunch of weenies, eh? ;^)
Sissies, the whole LOT... ROTFL
I can say that the tool that gets heavy at the end of the day is my Domino.
>
> But size matters. (Did you hear the cymbal crash and Ed MacMahon's
> "hiyo"?)
>
> All the Milwaukee, Makita and the Ridgid line of drills and saws have
> handles that are just entirely too small for me, the little 12v
> Ridgid drills being the exception. The brands I see at the big home
> stores are uncomfortable as I can barely get my palm and fingers
> between the trigger and and battery, and then I feel like I am
> holding a skinny broom stick. Same with most of their other tools in
> their lines.
I will say that I have larger hands than the average man and I hate my
fingers digging into the palms of my hand so the girth of the handle is
important to me. I used to be big in to photography and felt that
Pentax cameras were designed for women. ;~)
>
> I used to be a fan of DeWalt because they had great grips on some of
> their tools, but due to reliability issues I don't buy anything
> DeWalt anymore.
Same here.
>
> I am off to the salt mine. My manly self is charged this morning
> with final selection of paint colors, counter top color and texture
> as well as window treatment selections. I already picked out the
> floor treatments and other paint colors, so I might just stop by the
> tea room on the way out to the design center.
>
> It isn't easy being me... ;^)
If you need help with color choices call Karl and yank his chain. Wink
wink.
On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 12:52:44 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/18/15 11:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 10:50:47 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>
> >> That was my experience. I hear people complaining all the time
> >> about how difficult their registration process is. I think the
> >> internet and instant results to everything have spoiled a lot of
> >> people. Any time you have to mail anything in and wait a couple
> >> weeks, people act like they're making you cross the Rockies in a
> >> covered wagon.
> >
> > I don't know when the last time those "people" tried to register a
> > product, but - unless they contact me - I won't have to mail anything
> > in.
> >
> > My experience was indeed the "internet and instant results" we have
> > become accustomed to. I have to hand it to HD for making the process
> > so simple. One could argue that it is to their disadvantage to have
> > eliminated the need for us to mail in the paperwork. The easier they
> > make it, the more people will register, the more it may cost them. On
> > the other hand, they don't have to pay as many people (or a service)
> > to handle all of the registration paperwork and match it up with the
> > information submitted on line. (Imagine doing *that* job day in and
> > day out!)
> >
>
> Interesting. Do you know approximately when you registered?
> Mine was June, 2012.
> I'm guessing they've been streamlining the process which would be good
> news for all.
>
Approximately...yesterday. ;-)
[email protected] wrote:
> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as well as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will warrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
>
> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>
> Robert
I'm glad it worked out for you!
Bill
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told me
that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty
resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for
store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say
(their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off
center. It worked!
And those magic words were...?? Did they include "straight razor" and
"cojones"?
Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
I'm glad your problems were resolved. Is the store manager still intact?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
[email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 6:32:09 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told me
>> that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty
>> resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for
>> store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say
>> (their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off
>> center. It worked!
>>
>> And those magic words were...?? Did they include "straight razor" and
>> "cojones"?
>>
>> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>>
>> I'm glad your problems were resolved. Is the store manager still intact?
> LOL, gotta chuckle out of that. I was quite nice to him actually. I told him that I knew he was new manager to the store with only 6 months under his belt and that I knew he had a lot to deal with tending to so many "problem" employees.
>
> I told him what went on at the store, and he was fairly concerned. I then told him that I knew that a man as busy as he was sorting out his store wide problems might not have a chance to tend to my small one. So to take the problem off his back, I offered to call the national contractor's line in GA and tell them about our conversation, then go over the customer service issues in the store and we could see how they thought best to handle my drill problem.
>
> That way (I theorized out loud), if they wanted to write up his customer service staff for lack of performance he wouldn't get any blame himself for forced employee discipline other than the fact that all store activity was his responsibility. I offered the idea that it was possible that since he had only been there six months they might give him a pass on his inability to get his employees to do their job properly. As an added note, I added that after a bit of consideration I thought contacting the national desk was the thing to do as they might be able to give him some much needed managerial guidance on his employees if they had the signal that they were a bit out of control.
>
> After some thoughtful remarks from him, he assured me that he could take care of it himself on a local level and there was NO REASON AT ALL to call the national contractor desk. I told him... no problem at all on my part as I could call them on the way to the next job. In a way, I told him I thought that having me call might actually be doing him a favor as it could help corral some of his bad employees without getting his hands dirty. No favors wanted, needed, or requested he adamantly told me.
>
> It was all pretty pleasant, really. But he actually looked pretty upset when I left. But a few days later, I had batteries on my front porch at my house. So I guess we all stayed friends. ;^)
>
> Robert
>
Nice job! I once wrote a letter to Delta about one of their "Authorized
Online Dealers", and how they weren't living up to the promises made for
such dealers, and I got results that were nothing short of "amazing"
too. I think the page has been deleted (seriously).
On 3/11/15 10:36 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 11, 2015 at 12:28:36 AM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I told him what went on at the store, and he was fairly concerned. I
>> then told him that I knew that a man as busy as he was sorting out his
>> store wide problems might not have a chance to tend to my small one.
>> So to take the problem off his back, I offered to call the national
>> contractor's line in GA and tell them about our conversation, then go
>> over the customer service issues in the store and we could see how
>> they thought best to handle my drill problem.
>>
>> That way (I theorized out loud), if they wanted to write up his
>> customer service staff for lack of performance he wouldn't get any
>> blame himself for forced employee discipline other than the fact that
>> all store activity was his responsibility. I offered the idea that it
>> was possible that since he had only been there six months they might
>> give him a pass on his inability to get his employees to do their job
>> properly. As an added note, I added that after a bit of consideration
>> I thought contacting the national desk was the thing to do as they
>> might be able to give him some much needed managerial guidance on his
>> employees if they had the signal that they were a bit out of control.
>>
>> After some thoughtful remarks from him, he assured me that he could
>> take care of it himself on a local level and there was NO REASON AT
>> ALL to call the national contractor desk. I told him... no problem at
>> all on my part as I could call them on the way to the next job. In a
>> way, I told him I thought that having me call might actually be doing
>> him a favor as it could help corral some of his bad employees without
>> getting his hands dirty. No favors wanted, needed, or requested he
>> adamantly told me.
>>
>> It was all pretty pleasant, really. But he actually looked pretty
>> upset when I left. But a few days later, I had batteries on my front
>> porch at my house. So I guess we all stayed friends. ;^)
>> -----------------------------------------------
>> You silvered tongue'd devil.
>>
>> Bet you're still grinnin<G>
>>
>> Lew
>
> Yeah... a little bit!
>
> Years ago I got tired of being the only guy upset with my problems. This is a much better way for me to handle things to keep my blood pressure in check and have a bit of fun at the other guy's expense.
>
> Robert
>
This all makes me look very forward to whatever hoops I'll have to jump
through when my Ridgid batteries eventually crap out. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/13/15 5:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
>
>
Man, I'd send them the quotes and tell them you'd settle for 500 bucks
on a Home Depot gift card! I bet they'd jump at that knowing they're
getting it all back. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/13/15 9:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, March 13, 2015 at 9:36:06 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/13/15 5:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
>>>
>>>
>> Man, I'd send them the quotes and tell them you'd settle for 500 bucks
>> on a Home Depot gift card! I bet they'd jump at that knowing they're
>> getting it all back. :-)
>>
>>
>
> Why would I do that when they've already committed to sending me a check for the lowest of the 2 estimates that I submit?
>
Then go for $750!
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Fri, 13 Mar 2015 17:52:49 -0700, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks
>> like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the
>> scratches.
>>
> No wonder insurance rates are what they are!
We had an old Chevy Astro that got rear-ended at a stoplight. Needed a
new back bumper and the dent in the back door fixed. I don't remember
the exact numbers, but the low estimate was over $3000 and the most
optimistic estimate of the van's value was about $2700. We traded it
in :-).
The adjuster whose estimate I used spent about a half hour going over the
damage and waking out the estimate. I told him I had no intention of
fixing it and offered to pay him for his time. He refused, but said he
appreciated the offer - most say nothing and he never sees them again.
Guess where I'm going if I do want something fixed.
DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> Here are the 6 estimates that I received for the fender damage that
> occurred in the Home Depot parking lot. The vehicle involved is a
> Honda Odyssey.
>
> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>
> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of
> the two
> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not
> have, pictures of the damage
>
> $546 - Honda Dealer
> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>
> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the
> "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him
> that it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the
> more expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money
> first and then explore other options. No problem." He then provided
> an R&I repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>
> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
'Bout what I expected to see. All of the estimates withing $100 or so of
each other. That's a reasonable spread. Mox Nix on the matter of paintless
dent repair versus conventional body work. They're both going to give you
the same result, a warranty, and you'll be satisfied as long as the place
doing the work is professional (ethical and reliable). For some small dents
I send people to the PDR guys just so we don't have to break the e-coat on
the body part. That's a big plus. That said, for the small stuff that PDR
can do well, conventional body work tries very hard not to get into the
e-coat and if that can be accomplished, there's no advantage to PDR.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> BTW...here's the damage. This is what $500 worth a damage looks
> like...it's hard to tell, but there's a slight dent along with the
> scratches.
>
> http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq121/DerbyDad03/Fender%20Dent_zpsrgq1h9dk.jpg
Really hard to tell from the picture but it almost looks to me like the
clear coat is scratched - maybe deeply? If so, PDR is not the approach, but
then again the dealer would not have quoted PDR if that were the case. And
Yup - that's what $500 worth of damage looks like!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/15/15 9:38 PM, Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> And Yup - that's what $500 worth of damage looks like!
> If that's what $500 worth of damage looks like, I'd protect the metal
> (from rust) and forget about it.
What metal? :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> And Yup - that's what $500 worth of damage looks like!
> If that's what $500 worth of damage looks like, I'd protect the metal
> (from rust) and forget about it.
It's a sad story, but that's the way it is. It's not the fault of the
insurance companies or the body shops either - at least not to a large
degree. It's the fault of environmental concerns for one - that mandate
much more expensive approaches to body work. It's the fault of vehicle
owners to some degree, who look at damage as a revenue stream. Most of it
though, is really driven by the cost of doing business. Not all of it, but
most of it. There's lots of places to look to cast blame on the cost of
repairs today.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
-MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/15/15 9:38 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> And Yup - that's what $500 worth of damage looks like!
>> If that's what $500 worth of damage looks like, I'd protect the metal
>> (from rust) and forget about it.
>
> What metal? :-)
The thin substrate that lies just beneath the much thicker layer of paint...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/15/15 9:38 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> And Yup - that's what $500 worth of damage looks like!
>>> If that's what $500 worth of damage looks like, I'd protect the metal
>>> (from rust) and forget about it.
>> What metal? :-)
> The thin substrate that lies just beneath the much thicker layer of paint...
Yes, I'd buy a tiny bottle of "touch-up" paint for that. A car
dealership actually tried to charge me $25 for such a bottle once until
I "shared my thoughts" about the circumstances (it was following major
body work they did).
DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> I'm curious as to why they replaced the batteries under warranty. If
> I understand the terms of the warranty correctly, wouldn't "dead
> batteries" after 4 -5 years of use be excluded due to the "normal
> wear and tear" clause?
>
> Here are a few of excerpts from their warranty website.
>
> https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/full-lifetime-warranty
>
> *** Begin Included Text ***
>
> What is Covered
>
> RIDGID tools are warranted to be free of material and workmanship
> defects.
>
> What is Not Covered
>
> Failures due to misuse, abuse or normal wear and tear are not covered
> by this warranty.
>
> DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP:
>
> It is our experience that a product that fails prematurely due to a
> manufacturing defect in materials or workmanship, will generally do
> so very early in the products life cycle, often the first or second
> time the product is used. When returned for inspection, these
> products are generally found to still be in like new condition and
> show very little signs of use. It is uncommon for a product that was
> manufactured with a defect, to survive under normal use for any
> extended period of time. Products that are returned for warranty
> inspection after months or years of continuous reliable service are
> rarely found to be defective. The most common demand for service is
> the result of normal wear and tear issues, which are not considered
> to be a defect in materials or workmanship.
>
> *** End Included Text ***
>
> Can a dead battery really be considered "defective" after 4-5 years
> of "continuous reliable service"?
Though it does seem like there is a Catch-22 in the warranty conditions, all
I can say is that I have had my batteries both replaced under warranty,
after maybe 3-4 years of use. No questions asked. In fact - the service
center appologized that they did not have the smaller batteries that my
tools came with, and asked if I would accept the full size batteries as the
replacement battery. Gee...
Here is an excerpt from their warranty page that is somewhat different from
what you found...
*** Begin Included Text ***
3-Year Limited Warranty and LSA
What is Covered? (applies to the 3-Year Limited Warranty, the Lifetime
Service Agreement, and the Recon Limited Warranty)
The 3 Year Limited Warranty, The Recon Limited Warranty and the Lifetime
Service Agreement covers all worn parts in properly maintained tools. This
includes normal wear items such as brushes, chucks, motors, switches, gears
and even cordless batteries in your qualifying RIDGID® Brand hand held and
stationary power tools. These programs also cover replacement rings, driver
blades and bumpers on RIDGID® Brand pneumatic tools. This service coverage
does not apply to other ineligible RIDGID® Brand products.
*** End Included Text ***
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm curious as to why they replaced the batteries under warranty. If
>> I understand the terms of the warranty correctly, wouldn't "dead
>> batteries" after 4 -5 years of use be excluded due to the "normal
>> wear and tear" clause?
>>
>
> Though it does seem like there is a Catch-22 in the warranty
> conditions, all I can say is that I have had my batteries both
> replaced under warranty, after maybe 3-4 years of use. No questions
> asked. In fact - the service center appologized that they did not
> have the smaller batteries that my tools came with, and asked if I
> would accept the full size batteries as the replacement battery. Gee...
> Here is an excerpt from their warranty page that is somewhat
> different from what you found...
>
> *** Begin Included Text ***
>
> 3-Year Limited Warranty and LSA
> What is Covered? (applies to the 3-Year Limited Warranty, the Lifetime
> Service Agreement, and the Recon Limited Warranty)
>
> The 3 Year Limited Warranty, The Recon Limited Warranty and the
> Lifetime Service Agreement covers all worn parts in properly
> maintained tools. This includes normal wear items such as brushes,
> chucks, motors, switches, gears and even cordless batteries in your
> qualifying RIDGID® Brand hand held and stationary power tools. These
> programs also cover replacement rings, driver blades and bumpers on
> RIDGID® Brand pneumatic tools. This service coverage does not apply
> to other ineligible RIDGID® Brand products.
> *** End Included Text ***
BTW - when I go to my account on the Ridgid website, and display my
registered tools, those that are covered by the LSA are listed, and after
that listing there is a button that links to the warranty section. Pressing
that button takes me to the 3 year, LSA warranty page. Not sure why they
have the difference between this page and the "other" Lifetime warranty
page.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/18/15 6:32 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 5:08:28 AM UTC-4, [email protected]
> wrote:
>> On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 2:52:16 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> Apparently, that is not the case. Please see my earlier response
>>> to MM. I have since learned that there is a difference between
>>> Rigid's "Full Lifetime Warranty" and their "Lifetime Service
>>> Agreement". The warranty doesn't cover normal wear and tear, but
>>> the "Service Agreement" does.
>>>
>>> I was mistaken when I said I was curious as to why the batteries
>>> would be covered under the Lifetime Warranty. They weren't. They
>>> were covered under the Lifetime Service Agreement because they
>>> were eligible for that coverage and properly registered by the
>>> original purchaser.
>>>
>>> That explains why Ridgid has different pages for the "Full
>>> Lifetime Warranty" and the "Lifetime Service Agreement". They
>>> are not the same thing.
>>
>> You got it.
>>
>> When you buy their tools, it is important to recognize which
>> warranty you are getting and what is covered. When I bought those
>> two drills year ago I asked my commercial rep over and over if the
>> batteries were covered and he always said "yes". He showed me the
>> warranty, and it clearly stated that they were.
>>
>> Note that any kind of misuse or abuse negates both of the
>> warranties were are speaking of from Ridgid. So (as they told me
>> on the national hotline) if you take a tool to them that has had
>> the hell beat out of it, they don't have to cover it.
>>
>> My commercial rep told me that HD intended to back their product,
>> but they were counting on (as do all manufacturers) that most
>> tools wouldn't be registered at all, registered incorrectly, or not
>> in time. How many have put off registering because they knew they
>> had 3 months, then forgot about it?
>>
>> Then the registration process at that time required that you
>> actually cut the UPC bar code off the box and send it in with your
>> registration request. They sent me an email that told me my
>> account was ready to go, then I registered everything online. I
>> don't know how they do it now, but I am sure they still make it a
>> bit of a task.
>>
>
> The registration process was pretty simple. The instructions in the
> package said to register the serial numbers on-line, print out the
> completed form and then mail in the form, receipt and bar code.
> However, once you enter all of the serial numbers, there is a
> message that says you can streamline the registration process by
> entering the numbers under the bar code on the receipt instead of
> mailing the paperwork in. Only if there is a problem will they
> request that you mail in the paperwork. I've got everything ready to
> go if they request it.
>
That was my experience. I hear people complaining all the time about
how difficult their registration process is. I think the internet and
instant results to everything have spoiled a lot of people. Any time
you have to mail anything in and wait a couple weeks, people act like
they're making you cross the Rockies in a covered wagon.
My drills/driver/batts are all registered and listed on my account page
on the Ridgid website. I bought the tools specifically for the LSA and
"free batteries for life" that they were advertising at my local store.
I'm extremely satisfied with the performance of these tools, so overall
I'm glad I bought them and would do so again without the free batteries
or LSA.
However, if they ever give me a hard time about giving me "free
batteries for life" I will absolutely blow a gasket on them. I think I
even took a picture of the sign they had on their display. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/18/15 11:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 10:50:47 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>> That was my experience. I hear people complaining all the time
>> about how difficult their registration process is. I think the
>> internet and instant results to everything have spoiled a lot of
>> people. Any time you have to mail anything in and wait a couple
>> weeks, people act like they're making you cross the Rockies in a
>> covered wagon.
>
> I don't know when the last time those "people" tried to register a
> product, but - unless they contact me - I won't have to mail anything
> in.
>
> My experience was indeed the "internet and instant results" we have
> become accustomed to. I have to hand it to HD for making the process
> so simple. One could argue that it is to their disadvantage to have
> eliminated the need for us to mail in the paperwork. The easier they
> make it, the more people will register, the more it may cost them. On
> the other hand, they don't have to pay as many people (or a service)
> to handle all of the registration paperwork and match it up with the
> information submitted on line. (Imagine doing *that* job day in and
> day out!)
>
Interesting. Do you know approximately when you registered?
Mine was June, 2012.
I'm guessing they've been streamlining the process which would be good
news for all.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/18/15 2:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 12:52:44 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/18/15 11:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 10:50:47 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>
>>>> That was my experience. I hear people complaining all the
>>>> time about how difficult their registration process is. I
>>>> think the internet and instant results to everything have
>>>> spoiled a lot of people. Any time you have to mail anything
>>>> in and wait a couple weeks, people act like they're making you
>>>> cross the Rockies in a covered wagon.
>>>
>>> I don't know when the last time those "people" tried to register
>>> a product, but - unless they contact me - I won't have to mail
>>> anything in.
>>>
>>> My experience was indeed the "internet and instant results" we
>>> have become accustomed to. I have to hand it to HD for making the
>>> process so simple. One could argue that it is to their
>>> disadvantage to have eliminated the need for us to mail in the
>>> paperwork. The easier they make it, the more people will
>>> register, the more it may cost them. On the other hand, they
>>> don't have to pay as many people (or a service) to handle all of
>>> the registration paperwork and match it up with the information
>>> submitted on line. (Imagine doing *that* job day in and day
>>> out!)
>>>
>>
>> Interesting. Do you know approximately when you registered? Mine
>> was June, 2012. I'm guessing they've been streamlining the process
>> which would be good news for all.
>>
> Approximately...yesterday. ;-)
>
Funny! Well then, I'd say they are definitely streamlining the process,
due in part, no doubt, to the complaints about "hoops" through which to
jump. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> On the other hand, the DeWalt radio is huge and heavy compared to the
> Ridgid radio, but the Ridgid radio absolutely S*U*C*K*S compared to
> the DeWalt radio.
>
I think my Ridgid radio sucks too, but then again - it came in the kit. I
would never intentionally buy a tool for a damned radio. I think it was the
most stupid of additions to this kits. If I want tunes, I'll go out and buy
tunes - when I buy tools, I want tools. They could have left this right out
of the box in my opinion.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/19/2015 12:49 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 3:27:10 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> Well then, I'd say they are definitely streamlining the process,
>> due in part, no doubt, to the complaints about "hoops" through which to
>> jump. :-)
>
> Sounds a lot smoother and easier than when I first registered my drills. That was (according to them) late 2007 or so. They had a major software change and data transfer to start up a new system somewhere just after that where the I had to go to the website and register a new password and verify all my registration info was still there. It was.
>
> Like you, I have a few Ridgid tools and they have turned out to be real workhorses. I have two 5" ROSs, one for inside and one for outside. As I have posted before, the outside model has been used mercilessly and sanded a couple of thousand feet of fascia, ground off concrete to smooth it, and I don't think it has ever had anything finer than 80 grit on the pad. Still runs great, love the 8' cord and the reliability.
>
> I have a 4" square pad sander, and it has just finished all the rough/medium sanding on its second full set of kitchen cabinets. I use it to sand all the doors on both sides, the interior of the cabinets (hello oatmeal board!) and then the rails and stiles. When hooked up to a shop vac it had really good dust collection, and it even came with a template to use if you want to make your own sandpaper with the correct hole position for dust collection.
>
> I would buy both of those sanders and my little 12v drill again if they only had a one year warranty.
>
> Their other tools don't have comfortable grips for me, and now in my 40th year of construction work I prize a comfy tool as much as good performance. There are times I drive a few hundred screws a day, so the tool grip has to be good in the hand. I am drilling almost 300 holes tomorrow and driving 300 screws to hang the kitchen doors and put new slides on drawers in the kitchen I just refinished. 600 operations with the drills if I don't have to rehang and refit to get the job I want! That's a lot of holes and a lot of screws to handle accurately so a good feel is important.
>
> Strangely, I rarely see Ridgid out on the job. It seems there are three kinds of hands on working contractors these days, and usually they are a hybrid mix of these: 1) guys that buy just enough tool to get the job done 2) guys that buy nice tools and don't loan them or lend them even to their fellow workers and 3) the guys that buy pretty good tools knowing the life span of a tool on the job site.
>
> Someway, for my fellow contractors, Ridgid didn't hit the sweet spot anywhere with them.
>
> Robert
>
With all due respect...;~) You are a big boy! I considered a Ridgid
drill several years ago and felt that the only down fall was that they
were Heavy. Your coworkers and contractors may feel the same way.
It is probably your manly muscle bound hands and arms shield you from
the drawback of heavy tools. ;~)
On 3/13/2015 2:58 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> All collision shops were told the same 3 things:
>
> - Damage occurred in a Home Depot parking lot
> - Home Depot said to submit 2 estimates, they will pay the lower of the two
> - The Home Depot Claims Department did not request, and does not have, pictures of the damage
>
> $546 - Honda Dealer
> $534 - Honda Dealer (See Note below)
> $491 - Chevrolet Dealer
> $485 - Local Collision Shop Chain (13 locations)
> $479 - Independent Collision Shop
> $456 - Independent Collision Shop
>
> Note: The 2nd Honda dealer was the only collision shop to suggest the "paint-less repair" process to fix the damage. When I reminded him that it might be better for me if I was given an estimate for the more expensive old-school repair he said "Ah, get your lunch money first and then explore other options. No problem." He then provided an R&I repair estimate similar to all the rest.
>
> I've just faxed the 2 Honda dealer estimates to Home Depot.
>
Take the money and then take the car to the shop that you think will do
the best job. You can put $90 in your pocket, but if the final work is
not up to your expectations, it is not a bargain. Do not assume that the
Honda dealer will be the best final finish. They may be an authorized
dealer, but they may or may not have good body men and paint men.
Another option is to do nothing and trade it in. They will knock
something off the trade, but perhaps less than the lowest bid.
On 3/17/2015 2:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 11:32:47 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/17/2015 8:23 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:32:46 AM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> As a contractor, my tools are usually dropped, fall off roofs and ladders, have heavy things fall on them, get left out in the rain, get stolen, misplaced and about 10 other things occur before I have to worry about warranty issues.
>>>>
>>>> However, I bought a pair of ultra compact 12v Li drills about 4 or 5 years ago when they first came out. I bought them to use on my kitchen work as they work great to drive tiny hinge screws, drill the holes for pulls, and they are just dandy inside a cabinet when replacing or adjusting drawer hardware. Both we $99 with on battery each, and a charger. They are fine little drills.
>>>>
>>>> But the batteries finally died. I took the to the local HD as instructed and had a really bad time. The "tool guy" had to look at them, make his determination, write a report on his findings and then make a suggestion as to what repairs MIGHT be authorized. He told me that it could take him a month in the store to get to them, and if they were found to be in warranty, it could take another month to have it certified by the national repair depot, and then if it was the batteries ONLY, then they could possibly ship new ones to me in another 10 days to 2 weeks after that. So the whole process could take as much as 2 1/2 months! I was shocked. The tool guy did a cursory inspection and agreed that when new batteries were put in the old drills they both worked fine. When the old batteries were put in a new test charger, they showed as defective. However, he determined the issue needed more research on his part. (Clever man... I thought for a moment I was at the monkey cage at
t
>> he zoo...)
>>>>
>>>> I called the national number to tell them what was going on. They told me that they were tired of being blamed for the long wait times for warranty resolution and they were more tired of people calling to yell at them for store related issues. With their help they told me how and what to say (their corporate buzz words) to the store manager to get the project off center. It worked!
>>>>
>>>> From start to finish of this episode I had two new batteries in my hands in 3 1/2 weeks. But I wasn't through.
>>>>
>>>> The batteries came with a stern warning to register them within 90 days or there would be no further battery warranty. I tried several times to register, and then contacted them by email as instructed on their website. They didn't realize that you couldn't access their registration screens after the tool and its parts were registered. The reason was that anyone could change their serial numbers to tools found in pawn shops, etc. without having bought the tool new. So my CS email response was for me to simply go the website and register.
>>>>
>>>> After a while, I gave up and called national customer service again. They lady on the other end of the phone sighed pretty heavily and told me that I couldn't register them myself and a phone call was required. On a previously registered tool only Ridgid CS could modify any information. So today, she took my info over the phone and my account was updated within the half hour.
>>>>
>>>> So the moral is, register the tools correctly, know that they will honor their warranty in some cases, and know you will have to work for it as well as be patient. That being said, HD/Ridgid are the only guys that will warrant tools for more than a few months (most not at all) for contractor use.
>>>>
>>>> Hey... at least it worked, and I have my two favorite mini drills back!
>>>>
>>>> Robert
>>>
>>> I'm curious as to why they replaced the batteries under warranty. If I understand the terms of the warranty correctly, wouldn't "dead batteries" after 4 -5 years of use be excluded due to the "normal wear and tear" clause?
>>>
>>> Here are a few of excerpts from their warranty website.
>>>
>>> https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/full-lifetime-warranty
>>>
>>> *** Begin Included Text ***
>>>
>>> What is Covered
>>>
>>> RIDGID tools are warranted to be free of material and workmanship defects.
>>>
>>> What is Not Covered
>>>
>>> Failures due to misuse, abuse or normal wear and tear are not covered by this warranty.
>>>
>>> DEFECTS IN MATERIALS OR WORKMANSHIP:
>>>
>>> It is our experience that a product that fails prematurely due to a manufacturing defect in materials or workmanship, will generally do so very early in the products life cycle, often the first or second time the product is used. When returned for inspection, these products are generally found to still be in like new condition and show very little signs of use. It is uncommon for a product that was manufactured with a defect, to survive under normal use for any extended period of time. Products that are returned for warranty inspection after months or years of continuous reliable service are rarely found to be defective. The most common demand for service is the result of normal wear and tear issues, which are not considered to be a defect in materials or workmanship.
>>>
>>> *** End Included Text ***
>>>
>>> Can a dead battery really be considered "defective" after 4-5 years of "continuous reliable service"?
>>>
>> Absolutely If it has a lifetime warranty and fails under normal use it
>> would be defective. If it had a 3 year warranty it would not be
>> defective after 4~5 years. The warranty pretty much spells out what is
>> considered defective.
>
> Apparently, that is not the case. Please see my earlier response to MM. I have since learned that there is a difference between Rigid's "Full Lifetime Warranty" and their "Lifetime Service Agreement". The warranty doesn't cover normal wear and tear, but the "Service Agreement" does.
>
> I was mistaken when I said I was curious as to why the batteries would be covered under the Lifetime Warranty. They weren't. They were covered under the Lifetime Service Agreement because they were eligible for that coverage and properly registered by the original purchaser.
>
> That explains why Ridgid has different pages for the "Full Lifetime Warranty" and the "Lifetime Service Agreement". They are not the same thing.
>
Understood I understand the hoops you have to jump through to get your
purchase registered to be covered by "what ever" for a lifetime free
replacement.
The fact remains however that whether it be a warranty or service
agreement the battery is covered for as long as they have stated if you
have dotted your I's and crossed your t's. If the Service Agreement had
a limited number of years the batteries would only be covered for that
limited number of years.
I thought you were questioning if a 4~5 year old battery could actually
have replacement coverage for life.
But considering how difficult it is with all the steps for registration
they really don't want to cover the product for a life time so much as
have a "flags and whistles" Lifetime Service Agreement stamp on the
features list. They could simply exchange the defective or worn out
parts at the store, with proof of purchase, if they wanted everyone to
take advantage of the selling feature. But they are hoping that a
majority will forget to register or not register properly within all of
the time periods.