I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in a
piece of 10 foot 1x8. I have never tried to do this before.
I have a porter cable 691 with a plunge base and I set the depth guage up
and tried to "free hand" it on a test piece of lumber. Well - let's just
say that free handing is out of the question.
How should I do this to get a "perfect" square? I kind of figure I need a
"4 sided edge guide". An edge guide won't work on all sides as it won't
extend long enough into the board for two of the sides.
I'm at a loss.
TIA
Eric
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 23:47:13 GMT, "Eric Scantlebury"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in a
>piece of 10 foot 1x8. I have never tried to do this before.
>
>I have a porter cable 691 with a plunge base and I set the depth guage up
>and tried to "free hand" it on a test piece of lumber. Well - let's just
>say that free handing is out of the question.
>
>How should I do this to get a "perfect" square? I kind of figure I need a
>"4 sided edge guide". An edge guide won't work on all sides as it won't
>extend long enough into the board for two of the sides.
>
>I'm at a loss.
>
>TIA
>Eric
>
http://www.patwarner.com/precision_routing.html
http://www.patwarner.com/templates.html
Eric Scantlebury wrote:
> I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in
> a
> piece of 10 foot 1x8. I have never tried to do this before.
>
> I have a porter cable 691 with a plunge base and I set the depth guage up
> and tried to "free hand" it on a test piece of lumber. Well - let's just
> say that free handing is out of the question.
>
> How should I do this to get a "perfect" square? I kind of figure I need a
> "4 sided edge guide". An edge guide won't work on all sides as it won't
> extend long enough into the board for two of the sides.
>
> I'm at a loss.
>
> TIA
> Eric
edge guide and stop blocks.
In article <5Ihdd.2144$UX3.1154@trndny03>, [email protected] says...
> I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in a
> piece of 10 foot 1x8. I have never tried to do this before.
>
> I have a porter cable 691 with a plunge base and I set the depth guage up
> and tried to "free hand" it on a test piece of lumber. Well - let's just
> say that free handing is out of the question.
>
> How should I do this to get a "perfect" square? I kind of figure I need a
> "4 sided edge guide". An edge guide won't work on all sides as it won't
> extend long enough into the board for two of the sides.
>
> I'm at a loss.
>
> TIA
> Eric
>
>
>
What I do and would do in your case is lay out the square with double
sided tape and some 1/4" ply then route out the hole using a bushing
guide on the router to cut the hole.
--
MikeG
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
[email protected]
Pretty simple...create a template out of plywood by using
four sticks of wood with double side tape.
The template can be 1/4" plywood.
The "sticks" can be 3/4" plywood.
Bill Hylton explains the method in "Router Magic", but
the jist of the method is to "layout" the square by
trapping the base of the router inside a "box" created
by four sticks of wood.
You need to "limit" the forward motion of the router by
"stops"(the top of the fence and the bottom of the fence)
and "limit" the side to side motion of the router by the
stops on the side(two sides of the box). This creates a
piece of plywood with a square cut in it(the template).
Use the template to cut the square in the 1"x8"...
Eric Scantlebury wrote:
> I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in a
> piece of 10 foot 1x8. I have never tried to do this before.
>
> I have a porter cable 691 with a plunge base and I set the depth guage up
> and tried to "free hand" it on a test piece of lumber. Well - let's just
> say that free handing is out of the question.
>
> How should I do this to get a "perfect" square? I kind of figure I need a
> "4 sided edge guide". An edge guide won't work on all sides as it won't
> extend long enough into the board for two of the sides.
>
> I'm at a loss.
>
> TIA
> Eric
>
>
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> http://www.patwarner.com/precision_routing.html
> http://www.patwarner.com/templates.html
And to temporarily hijack this thread...
About an hour a go, the UPS guy brought my new trim router bases that Pat
sells. These already are making a difference in how the little 7310 feels,
doing edge treatments.
When my wife, looking for her quilting supplies order, asked what the UPS
fellow had brought, I grinned, and told her "new safety equipment".
Now back to your regularly schedule USENET...
Patriarch
Eugene <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Eric Scantlebury wrote:
>
> > I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in
> > a
> > piece of 10 foot 1x8.
I do not understand how a square can be 1" x 5" x 1/8" deep. But
that doesn't affect the answer.
> edge guide and stop blocks.
Stated a little LESS succintly use the edge guide to set the
distance from the edge of the board and clamp two cleats
accross the board to limit the travel along the board.
You can also eliminate the edge guide by using stop
cleats that are longer than the board is wide and then
clamp, nail, or screw two boards to the overhanging edges
so that you can run the router around inside of the square
thus formed.
Use ear protection too. Even if the router doesn't sound loud,
routers produce sound that, though beyond the audible range, will
cause hearing loss in the audible range.
--
FF
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 23:47:13 GMT, "Eric Scantlebury"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in a
>piece of 10 foot 1x8. I have never tried to do this before.
rectangle...
>
>How should I do this to get a "perfect" square? I kind of figure I need a
>"4 sided edge guide". An edge guide won't work on all sides as it won't
>extend long enough into the board for two of the sides.
You could make a template - take a piece of 1/2" plywood or MDF and
cut a perfect 1x5" rectangle out. Mount up a top-bearing dado
cleaning bit (got one from Woodline) and hog out the rectangle. (Or
size the template's rectangle appropriately to use a guide bushing.)
Or -- get some more 1x8's and put one on each side of the target 1x8.
You'll now have 8 additional inches of support on each side. Find some
straight pieces of scrap and build a guide rectangle that you can
guide the router base around.
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 23:47:13 GMT, "Eric Scantlebury"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Freehand is way off, yes.
One hint that nobody seems to have mentioned is that when using a
template, you should always feed the router so that the rotation
forces the router _into_ the guide / template. The leading side of the
router does the cutting and pushing sideways.
You need to clamp two longish pieces of timber across the beam to stop
the router that way, then clamp etc two more pieces to those, and two
more on top of the last two, to stop the router _across_ the work. The
whole thing needs to account for the disatance between the edge of the
router base and the cutter. You have to measure or calculate that for
every cutter.
You will of still not have a rectangle, because the corners are
rounded.
>I need to route a square approx. 1 inch by 5 inches by 1/8 inches deep in a
>piece of 10 foot 1x8. I have never tried to do this before.
>
>I have a porter cable 691 with a plunge base and I set the depth guage up
>and tried to "free hand" it on a test piece of lumber. Well - let's just
>say that free handing is out of the question.
>
>How should I do this to get a "perfect" square? I kind of figure I need a
>"4 sided edge guide". An edge guide won't work on all sides as it won't
>extend long enough into the board for two of the sides.
>
>I'm at a loss.
>
>TIA
>Eric
>
*****************************************************
Have you noticed that people always run from what
they _need_ toward what they want?????