I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
om the cover)
Process is a dye stain to add color, followed by pigment stain to color
the pores.
I used transtint reddish brown for the dye, and Watco dark walnut for
the pigment (it contains the required gilsonite, or asphaltum)
My problem is the pores aren't taking the dark color, it's as if they
are coated in Watco-repelling teflon. Everything is colored correctly
except the pores! Simalar results were obtained with Minwax dark walnut.
I can think of a few things to try next:
Try some gel stain to color the pores.
Try some homemade gilsonite (roofing cement & mineral spirits)
Use dark colored wax.
Any other ideas??? (Oh yeah, I'm doing this all on scrap for now)
Hi Brian,
Why not go to the following link and ask Jeff himself? Also I think you will
find a recipe under articles or recipes on his sister Hometead.com site.
Cheers, JG
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/phpBB2/portal.php
brian roth wrote:
> I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
> some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
> om the cover)
>
> Process is a dye stain to add color, followed by pigment stain to color
> the pores.
>
> I used transtint reddish brown for the dye, and Watco dark walnut for
> the pigment (it contains the required gilsonite, or asphaltum)
>
> My problem is the pores aren't taking the dark color, it's as if they
> are coated in Watco-repelling teflon. Everything is colored correctly
> except the pores! Simalar results were obtained with Minwax dark walnut.
>
> I can think of a few things to try next:
>
> Try some gel stain to color the pores.
>
> Try some homemade gilsonite (roofing cement & mineral spirits)
>
> Use dark colored wax.
>
> Any other ideas??? (Oh yeah, I'm doing this all on scrap for now)
On 19 Oct 2004 17:12:39 -0700, [email protected] (brian roth)
wrote:
>Try some homemade gilsonite (roofing cement & mineral spirits)
Roofing bitumen isn't gilsonite. This is a somewhat unpredictable
stain at the best of times (it's very dilution sensitive) and it's
worth buying some real gilsonite or asphaltum (from Liberon), rather
than trying to use roofing grade stuff. You _can_ use roofer's
bitumen, you just can't control it. Make sure it's _all_ dissolved
too, otherwise you can find it starts getting darker and darker while
you're working with it!
Roofing bitumen also doesn't come in packages less than about 20kg.
We've spent since early Summer trying to invent uses for the rest of a
sackful ! Pretty good fun though - we've made repoussed steel, very
slow waterclocks, waterproofed steel vases, vampire-detecting
mirrors...
--
Smert' spamionam
On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 02:22:55 +0100, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 19 Oct 2004 17:12:39 -0700, [email protected] (brian roth)
>wrote:
>
>>Try some homemade gilsonite (roofing cement & mineral spirits)
>
>Roofing bitumen isn't gilsonite. This is a somewhat unpredictable
>stain at the best of times (it's very dilution sensitive) and it's
>worth buying some real gilsonite or asphaltum (from Liberon), rather
>than trying to use roofing grade stuff. You _can_ use roofer's
>bitumen, you just can't control it. Make sure it's _all_ dissolved
>too, otherwise you can find it starts getting darker and darker while
>you're working with it!
>
>Roofing bitumen also doesn't come in packages less than about 20kg.
>We've spent since early Summer trying to invent uses for the rest of a
>sackful ! Pretty good fun though - we've made repoussed steel, very
>slow waterclocks, waterproofed steel vases, vampire-detecting
>mirrors...
over here you can buy the roofing stuff in small quantities for
repairs. I've even seen it in caulking gun tubes.
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
> White oak - go straight for ammonia. It's not only the _right_ thing
> to do, it's also easier than fooling about with dyes and stains.
Good advice ... wish I'd followed it on my own earlier, keeper pieces. It's
nicer when your 'collection' looks like it comes from the same planet.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04
Brian,
What you are seeing is a sort of surface tension problem. Oak
(especially Red but also White) is notorious for this. You stain and
it looks beautiful. Howver once it dries you see lots of white poking
through. This is less noticable when you use natural or honey oak type
colors but real evident when you use dark colors.
What is happening is the stain is creating a bubble or sheet that sits
across the top of two grain ridges without actually getting down into
the valley. As the stain dries the bubble pops.
You can beat this by using a stiff brush and really gringing the stain
into the grain. Even a soft brush will do it but will get destroyed in
the grinding process..
[email protected] (brian roth) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
> some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
> om the cover)
>
> Process is a dye stain to add color, followed by pigment stain to color
> the pores.
>
> I used transtint reddish brown for the dye, and Watco dark walnut for
> the pigment (it contains the required gilsonite, or asphaltum)
>
> My problem is the pores aren't taking the dark color, it's as if they
> are coated in Watco-repelling teflon. Everything is colored correctly
> except the pores! Simalar results were obtained with Minwax dark walnut.
>
> I can think of a few things to try next:
>
> Try some gel stain to color the pores.
>
> Try some homemade gilsonite (roofing cement & mineral spirits)
>
> Use dark colored wax.
>
> Any other ideas??? (Oh yeah, I'm doing this all on scrap for now)
[email protected] (Eag111) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've had very good results following Jeff's recipe on QS white oak using
> McCloskey Tungseal Walnut...
I went and got some McCloskey's (valspar customer service e-mail me a
list of retailers). Much better results. Much thicker stain. Must
be chock full of Gilsonite....
In article <[email protected]>,
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 19 Oct 2004 17:12:39 -0700, [email protected] (brian roth)
> wrote:
>
> >I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
> >some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
> >om the cover)
>
> White oak - go straight for ammonia. It's not only the _right_ thing
> to do, it's also easier than fooling about with dyes and stains.
And remember that you don't apply the ammonia to the wood. You *fume*
the wood with ammonia.
Also, ever seen the mission style furniture at Renovation Hardware? They
use their own "maple" stain that's sold in the store. The appearance is
quite nice. I'd use that and then put 3-5 coats of wiped on Flecto
Varithane's "Natural Oil"...but let each coat dry and "polish" the
finish lightly inbetween coats with 600 W&D and tack cloth. Also, make
sure you polish the wood with the 600 before applying the first coat too.
--
Regards,
JP
"The measure of a man is what he will do
knowing he will get nothing in return"
On 19 Oct 2004 17:12:39 -0700, [email protected] (brian roth)
wrote:
>
>
>I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
>some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
>om the cover)
>
So I had an hour this morning to try some variations. I had several
flavors of water based aniline dye (JE Moser powerded brand) and a
several cans of stain left around (A couple of Bartley's Gel, and a
Minwhacks.)
I was able to acheive the same results he outlined -- the dye colored
my medullary ray flecks and then the followup stain did indeed
accentuate the pores.
I left the test pieces at 180 grit - I didn't go down any farther.
The degree of fleck dying was independent of the dye color, but I
found the darker/redder dyes more appealing and apparant.
Likewise -- all pigment stains filled the pores, but the darker ones
were more striking.
Not an endorsement of the approach - dying and staining over fuming,
just saying I'm seeing what Jewitt was talking about in the article.
Fuming is not an option for me, now. I've got a white/oak and
mahogany piece that I'm going to dye dark for a couple of
(questionable) reasons. So I'm going to try this. I'll likely post
pix to ABPW and let group decide whether they find it a pleasing
finish or not...
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 21:03:59 GMT, patrick conroy
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>On 19 Oct 2004 17:12:39 -0700, [email protected] (brian roth)
>wrote:
>>
>>I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
>>some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
>>om the cover)
>
>Brian - I'm about a week away from trying this very finish. Did you
>find a solution?
DAGS on Andy Dingley's review of that article and the finish,
then rethink your trial. ;)
--
Like they say, 99% of lawyers give the rest a bad name.
------------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Lawyer-free Website Development
On 19 Oct 2004 17:12:39 -0700, [email protected] (brian roth)
wrote:
>I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
>some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
>om the cover)
White oak - go straight for ammonia. It's not only the _right_ thing
to do, it's also easier than fooling about with dyes and stains.
--
Smert' spamionam
If you have a Rockler store nearby go pick yourself up a can of their
mission stain. I used it on some items I built that should show up in abpw.
--
Mike S.
[email protected]
http://members.tripod.com/n0yii/woodworking.htm
"brian roth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
> some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
> om the cover)
>
> Process is a dye stain to add color, followed by pigment stain to color
> the pores.
>
> I used transtint reddish brown for the dye, and Watco dark walnut for
> the pigment (it contains the required gilsonite, or asphaltum)
>
> My problem is the pores aren't taking the dark color, it's as if they
> are coated in Watco-repelling teflon. Everything is colored correctly
> except the pores! Simalar results were obtained with Minwax dark walnut.
>
> I can think of a few things to try next:
>
> Try some gel stain to color the pores.
>
> Try some homemade gilsonite (roofing cement & mineral spirits)
>
> Use dark colored wax.
>
> Any other ideas??? (Oh yeah, I'm doing this all on scrap for now)
On 19 Oct 2004 17:12:39 -0700, [email protected] (brian roth)
wrote:
>
>
>I'm trying to use the Jeff Jewitt Arts & Crafts finish process on
>some white oak, as outlined in FWW (Issue with the Cherry Shaker Clock
>om the cover)
>
Brian - I'm about a week away from trying this very finish. Did you
find a solution?