We have a one-story house with a full basement. The main floor is
built on 2x10 floor joists withthree-quarter plywood sub-flooring.
The basement "ceiling" is simply the underside of the main flooring -
exposed 2x10's about 7 ft ten inches above the concrete floor. I have
a fire place down there that houses a fire-box insert/stove wich I
used to generate a portion of the heat used in the colder months.
THere is also an oil-fired furnace at least 40 years old with metal
ductwork hanging beneath and (where running parallel with) between the
joists.
I've been thinking of installing insulation between the joists. My
first thought was to simply buy the 15" wide six-inch thick rolls and
staple the paper to the underside of the joists much like I've done on
the verticle walls we've insulated over the years. This would leave a
brown paper** "ceiling," six inches of fiberglass, four inches of air
space and, finally the sub-flooring.
Then I recalled that the paper/moisture barrier was to face the heated
side of the structure (when doing 3.5" rolls in the walls) - our wall
studs are two by fours - not six inches!
Do any of you know 1. If insulation here Under the flooring) is a good
idea, and 2. if stapling batts or roll insulation as described is
"the" or "a" right way to go about it?
** The next step would be to install drywall or similar paintable
material to achieve a white ceiling down there.
Thanks for the (anticipated) helpful feedback.
On Wed, 05 Oct 2011 11:50:59 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Really? You think no one knows what just happened here?
Mike, Mike. You're trying reason with a factual moron. Don't waste
your time.
On Oct 3, 1:50=A0am, "Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote
"If you have a cold basement and want to keep the heat upstairs, yes.
=A0In your case, you have a wood burner for heat and insulation will
prevent it from heating the floor above. You can probably save 20% to
40$ on the oil bill if you upgrade the 40 year old furnace."
Thanks, I think the studding and perimeter wall insulation is the way
I will need to go. But, I have to address a moisture issue or two
before cladding up the block walls down there. I can start on the rim-
joist insulation (above the block wall) - that should help keep the
cold out. Thanks again.
Boy! Can I call the shots, or what?
--------------
"m II" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Now watch as his sock puppets show up and defend his sorry ass.
Ooops...I just ruined that one for him.
Bullshit!
------
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Wow.... that's the weakest backpedaling I've ever witnessed.
"attack expression method?" You really need to work on your haphazard
inferences.
I made a simple statement of fact and you see it as an attack.
Really? You think no one knows what just happened here?
Looks to me like you actually read some of the information I referenced
and it took you this long to get your foot out of your mouth. Instead
of
apologizing, you post this, pretending like you knew it all along. But
wait, I thought it was "unsubstantiated BS?"
"You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to
the noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive." Sound
familiar. Say it again, while looking ion the mirror.
--
-MIKE-
"m II" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to the
> noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
>
> Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the few
> listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
>
> -------------
> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
> It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
> insulation.
> The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow echo
> out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping sound
> from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
>
>
> --
>
> -MIKE-
>
>
It must be my imagination at work. I renovated one of the bathrooms in our
house and in the process installed insulation in the wall that separates the
bathroom from the den.
I can barely hear the TV in the den (at normal listening level) while I'm in
the bathroom. But the most important effect is that while in the den and
someone flushes the toilet in that particular bathroom, it can't be heard in
the den. Maybe it's the 30# felt I installed under the tile?
Max
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:59:48 -0600, "Max" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>"m II" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to
>>> the
>>> noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
>>>
>>> Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the
>>> few
>>> listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
>>>
>>> -------------
>>> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>> Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
>>> It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
>>> insulation.
>>> The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow echo
>>> out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping sound
>>> from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
>
> Not quite true, but it all depends on the frequency of the noise.
> Bass notes come right through it but it really dampens higher
> frequencies.
>
>>It must be my imagination at work. I renovated one of the bathrooms in
>>our
>>house and in the process installed insulation in the wall that separates
>>the
>>bathroom from the den.
>>I can barely hear the TV in the den (at normal listening level) while I'm
>>in
>>the bathroom. But the most important effect is that while in the den and
>>someone flushes the toilet in that particular bathroom, it can't be heard
>>in
>>the den. Maybe it's the 30# felt I installed under the tile?
>
> The felt will likely cause you adhesion problems later if ou put it
> between your backer board and the tile. It also adds minimal sound
> deadening, but the extra mass of the tile + backer board stops most of
> it, while the fiberglass insulation absorbs 3-5dB. http://goo.gl/MkK5d
>
> Better fiberglass matting for sound: http://goo.gl/i8tO8
>
> The point is: Every little bit helps when it comes to sound blocking,
> deadening, and absorbing.
Insulation between the studs. 30# felt. Backer board. Tile. In that order.
Has worked for me for many years. In any bathroom I've done.
"Every little bit helps" <G> AND........ I always try to have 2X6s in the
walls. AND......blocking for the installation of grab bars. If possible.
Max
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> The basement "ceiling" is simply the underside of the main flooring -
> exposed 2x10's about 7 ft ten inches above the concrete floor. I have
> a fire place down there that houses a fire-box insert/stove wich I
> used to generate a portion of the heat used in the colder months.
> THere is also an oil-fired furnace at least 40 years old with metal
> ductwork hanging beneath and (where running parallel with) between the
> joists.
>
> I've been thinking of installing insulation between the joists.
>
> Do any of you know 1. If insulation here Under the flooring) is a good
> idea,
If you have a cold basement and want to keep the heat upstairs, yes. In
your case, you have a wood burner for heat and insulation will prevent it
from heating the floor above.
You can probably save 20% to 40$ on the oil bill if you upgrade the 40 year
old furnace.
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 21:06:56 -0400, "m II" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bullshit!
YES, you're full of it.
Just -MIKE- doing his classic "Bullshit!" post, he loves to demonstrate
his lack of personality with.
This is known as trolling in most places...taking snipes and then
running, like a chicken, to hide his face.
Now watch as his sock puppets show up and defend his sorry ass.
Ooops...I just ruined that one for him.
-------------------
It must be my imagination at work. I renovated one of the bathrooms in
our
house and in the process installed insulation in the wall that
separates the
bathroom from the den.
I can barely hear the TV in the den (at normal listening level) while
I'm in
the bathroom. But the most important effect is that while in the den
and
someone flushes the toilet in that particular bathroom, it can't be
heard in
the den. Maybe it's the 30# felt I installed under the tile?
Max
-------------
"Max" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
insulation.
The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow
echo
out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping
sound
from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
--
-DIKE-
That was too easy as you just spouted more unsubstantiated BS and never
any answers.
Fibreglass insulations is good sound insulation. It isn't used due to
the glass fibres people don't want to breath when left open.
You need to do some actual research, not guess from what your fellow
ignorants have guessed at and told you.
Now you have`been told by me and several others here.
----------------
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
1st. Let's take a poll and see who the group thinks contributes more,
me or you.
2nd. I'm not going to do your homework for you.
Go to http://www.soundproofing.org/ and do some reading on the subject
before you go spouting off, further proving your ignorance.
BTW, if you haven't noticed yet, asshole, you're the one who is
killfiled by so many.
--
-DIKE-
Mike, Mike, you are dealing with the George Watson (Chris Caputo) troll
but you, sir, are still full of unsubstantiated shit!
Nice sock puppetry, right on cue.
---------------------
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
You, Sir, are correct.
On 10/5/11 8:23 PM, Dave wrote:
Mike, Mike. You're trying reason with a factual moron. Don't waste
your time.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
What Mike is saying has some logic to it.Just his attack expression
method sucks.
Exposed insulation will absorb lots of sound (stop reflecting) but is
undesirable for breathing.
Inside the cavity of a wall is another story.
The dry wall reflects the high freq. sounds and the insulation doesn't
function much.
Low freq. sounds vibrate the drywall and the studs passing right
through, reproducing the sounds on the other side, again. Insulation in
the cavities, may help dampen the stud motion, very slightly, but not
much.
To agree with Mike, sound passage **through** a wall is not changed
much by cavity insulation.
------------
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Soundproofing and sound-treating are two different animals.
Soundproofing: stopping as much sound as possible from leaving the
room.
Sound-treating: stopping sound inside a room (or making it sound
better).
People will often try to soundproof a room by erroneously using
sound-treatment techniques. They line the walls with all kinds of foam,
packing blankets, carpet, curtains and other sound absorbent/diffusing
materials. This makes for a very dead room inside. (It also explains
the
horrible results heard from their recordings, but that's another
story.)
But it does virtually nothing to soundproof the room.
--
-MIKE-
Froz...Is the moisture problem a leak or just condensation? Leaks can
be a big job. Condensation, vapour barrier, stud and insulate and you
will be fine.
Wh are on the side of a hill/mountain (most of our acreage is above
us) and we get water seeping up into the slab - as opposed to
condensation on the slab. I've put twenty gallons of Dry-Loc on the
CBS walls and that seems to have worked - they seem dry, but the slab
gets wet during the Summer. It could be condensation.
I have put down some concrete sealer in one area an will cover that
with linoleum/vinyl flooring material (remnant 8 x 12 foot cheap
stuff) and then put the carpeting back over the are and see what
develops. I figure that, if I can keep the moisture away from things
"organic," I can prevent mold and mildew.
I am also looking into running a duck or two at the rear, windowless,
portion of the basement up into the attic in the hope of engendering
some "natural" air circulation. The entire 1000 + sf basement only has
three windows that each provide an opening of about six inches by two
foot. Not much in the way of ventilation. And, as they are at geound
level (or below) on the outside, leaving them open during heavy rain
could let in lots of water!
BYW - I am not interested in Sound-proofing. So you boys can stop
fighting.
On Tue, 4 Oct 2011 09:27:16 -0600, "Max" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:59:48 -0600, "Max" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>"m II" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>> You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to
>>>> the
>>>> noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
>>>>
>>>> Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the
>>>> few
>>>> listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
>>>>
>>>> -------------
>>>> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>>> Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
>>>> It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
>>>> insulation.
>>>> The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow echo
>>>> out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping sound
>>>> from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
>>
>> Not quite true, but it all depends on the frequency of the noise.
>> Bass notes come right through it but it really dampens higher
>> frequencies.
>>
>>>It must be my imagination at work. I renovated one of the bathrooms in
>>>our
>>>house and in the process installed insulation in the wall that separates
>>>the
>>>bathroom from the den.
>>>I can barely hear the TV in the den (at normal listening level) while I'm
>>>in
>>>the bathroom. But the most important effect is that while in the den and
>>>someone flushes the toilet in that particular bathroom, it can't be heard
>>>in
>>>the den. Maybe it's the 30# felt I installed under the tile?
>>
>> The felt will likely cause you adhesion problems later if ou put it
>> between your backer board and the tile. It also adds minimal sound
>> deadening, but the extra mass of the tile + backer board stops most of
>> it, while the fiberglass insulation absorbs 3-5dB. http://goo.gl/MkK5d
>>
>> Better fiberglass matting for sound: http://goo.gl/i8tO8
>>
>> The point is: Every little bit helps when it comes to sound blocking,
>> deadening, and absorbing.
>
>Insulation between the studs. 30# felt. Backer board. Tile. In that order.
>Has worked for me for many years. In any bathroom I've done.
Whew! You had me scared there for a minute.
>"Every little bit helps" <G> AND........ I always try to have 2X6s in the
>walls. AND......blocking for the installation of grab bars. If possible.
Smart man, Max.
--
Worry is a misuse of imagination.
-- Dan Zadra
On Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:59:48 -0600, "Max" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"m II" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to the
>> noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
>>
>> Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the few
>> listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
>>
>> -------------
>> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
>> It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
>> insulation.
>> The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow echo
>> out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping sound
>> from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
Not quite true, but it all depends on the frequency of the noise.
Bass notes come right through it but it really dampens higher
frequencies.
>It must be my imagination at work. I renovated one of the bathrooms in our
>house and in the process installed insulation in the wall that separates the
>bathroom from the den.
>I can barely hear the TV in the den (at normal listening level) while I'm in
>the bathroom. But the most important effect is that while in the den and
>someone flushes the toilet in that particular bathroom, it can't be heard in
>the den. Maybe it's the 30# felt I installed under the tile?
The felt will likely cause you adhesion problems later if ou put it
between your backer board and the tile. It also adds minimal sound
deadening, but the extra mass of the tile + backer board stops most of
it, while the fiberglass insulation absorbs 3-5dB. http://goo.gl/MkK5d
Better fiberglass matting for sound: http://goo.gl/i8tO8
The point is: Every little bit helps when it comes to sound blocking,
deadening, and absorbing.
If it were cheaper, I'd put up QuietRock on my bedroom walls and
ceiling. http://www.quietrock.com/
--
Worry is a misuse of imagination.
-- Dan Zadra
On 10/2/2011 8:53 PM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
> We have a one-story house with a full basement. The main floor is
> built on 2x10 floor joists withthree-quarter plywood sub-flooring.
>
> The basement "ceiling" is simply the underside of the main flooring -
> exposed 2x10's about 7 ft ten inches above the concrete floor. I have
> a fire place down there that houses a fire-box insert/stove wich I
> used to generate a portion of the heat used in the colder months.
> THere is also an oil-fired furnace at least 40 years old with metal
> ductwork hanging beneath and (where running parallel with) between the
> joists.
>
> I've been thinking of installing insulation between the joists.
Why? What do you expect to accomplish? It's not possible to give
meaningful answers to your questions without knowing that.
> My first thought was to simply buy the 15" wide six-inch thick rolls and
> staple the paper to the underside of the joists much like I've done on
> the verticle walls we've insulated over the years. This would leave a
> brown paper** "ceiling," six inches of fiberglass, four inches of air
> space and, finally the sub-flooring.
>
> Then I recalled that the paper/moisture barrier was to face the heated
> side of the structure (when doing 3.5" rolls in the walls) - our wall
> studs are two by fours - not six inches!
>
> Do any of you know 1. If insulation here Under the flooring) is a good
> idea, and 2. if stapling batts or roll insulation as described is
> "the" or "a" right way to go about it?
>
> ** The next step would be to install drywall or similar paintable
> material to achieve a white ceiling down there.
>
> Thanks for the (anticipated) helpful feedback.
On 10/02/11 8:53 PM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
> We have a one-story house with a full basement. The main floor is
> built on 2x10 floor joists withthree-quarter plywood sub-flooring.
>
> The basement "ceiling" is simply the underside of the main flooring -
> exposed 2x10's about 7 ft ten inches above the concrete floor. I have
> a fire place down there that houses a fire-box insert/stove wich I
> used to generate a portion of the heat used in the colder months.
> THere is also an oil-fired furnace at least 40 years old with metal
> ductwork hanging beneath and (where running parallel with) between the
> joists.
>
> I've been thinking of installing insulation between the joists. My
> first thought was to simply buy the 15" wide six-inch thick rolls and
> staple the paper to the underside of the joists much like I've done on
> the verticle walls we've insulated over the years. This would leave a
> brown paper** "ceiling," six inches of fiberglass, four inches of air
> space and, finally the sub-flooring.
>
> Then I recalled that the paper/moisture barrier was to face the heated
> side of the structure (when doing 3.5" rolls in the walls) - our wall
> studs are two by fours - not six inches!
>
> Do any of you know 1. If insulation here Under the flooring) is a good
> idea, and 2. if stapling batts or roll insulation as described is
> "the" or "a" right way to go about it?
>
> ** The next step would be to install drywall or similar paintable
> material to achieve a white ceiling down there.
>
> Thanks for the (anticipated) helpful feedback.
A much more useful exercise would be to stud and insulate the basement
walls.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
"Hoosierpopi" wrote in message
news:c8c209b6-7e3e-4c44-a692-6df346801e8a@de2g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
We have a one-story house with a full basement. The main floor is
built on 2x10 floor joists withthree-quarter plywood sub-flooring.
The basement "ceiling" is simply the underside of the main flooring -
exposed 2x10's about 7 ft ten inches above the concrete floor. I have
a fire place down there that houses a fire-box insert/stove wich I
used to generate a portion of the heat used in the colder months.
THere is also an oil-fired furnace at least 40 years old with metal
ductwork hanging beneath and (where running parallel with) between the
joists.
I've been thinking of installing insulation between the joists. My
first thought was to simply buy the 15" wide six-inch thick rolls and
staple the paper to the underside of the joists much like I've done on
the verticle walls we've insulated over the years. This would leave a
brown paper** "ceiling," six inches of fiberglass, four inches of air
space and, finally the sub-flooring.
Then I recalled that the paper/moisture barrier was to face the heated
side of the structure (when doing 3.5" rolls in the walls) - our wall
studs are two by fours - not six inches!
Do any of you know 1. If insulation here Under the flooring) is a good
idea, and 2. if stapling batts or roll insulation as described is
"the" or "a" right way to go about it?
** The next step would be to install drywall or similar paintable
material to achieve a white ceiling down there.
Thanks for the (anticipated) helpful feedback.
================
You wouldn't, typically insulate between two heated areas, unless for sound
isolation???
I agree with FN's posts. Stud the basement wall and insulate the perimeter
of the house. You will gain valuable warmer basement space.
--
Eric
On 10/3/11 1:46 PM, Eric wrote:
> You wouldn't, typically insulate between two heated areas, unless for
> sound isolation???
>
Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
insulation.
The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow echo
out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping sound
from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/3/11 7:51 PM, m II wrote:
> You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to
> the noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
>
> Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the
> few listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
>
1st. Let's take a poll and see who the group thinks contributes more,
me or you.
2nd. I'm not going to do your homework for you.
Go to http://www.soundproofing.org/ and do some reading on the subject
before you go spouting off, further proving your ignorance.
BTW, if you haven't noticed yet, asshole, you're the one who is
killfiled by so many.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/3/11 7:59 PM, Max wrote:
> "m II" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to
>> the noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
>>
>> Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the
>> few listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
>>
>> -------------
>> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
>> It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
>> insulation.
>> The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow echo
>> out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping sound
>> from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> -MIKE-
>>
>>
>
>
> It must be my imagination at work. I renovated one of the bathrooms in
> our house and in the process installed insulation in the wall that
> separates the bathroom from the den.
> I can barely hear the TV in the den (at normal listening level) while
> I'm in the bathroom. But the most important effect is that while in the
> den and someone flushes the toilet in that particular bathroom, it can't
> be heard in the den. Maybe it's the 30# felt I installed under the tile?
>
> Max
All the high to mid range is stopped by bouncing off the walls.
Low-mids and low end are only stopped by uncoupled mass, which resonate
at different frequencies. This is not stuff I'm making up. It's all
common knowledge to anyone in audio production and it's all out on
several websites.
I'm not saying you didn't notice a difference in sound with your
remodel. I would, however, speculate that it had more to do with other
factors than the insulation. Too many hypotheticals to speculate.
I don't need to argue these facts. There's a reason you don't see an
ounce of Fiberglas vat insulation in any recording studio, anywhere.
Because it simply does very, very little to stop sound.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/3/11 10:20 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 3 Oct 2011 18:59:48 -0600, "Max"<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> "m II"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to the
>>> noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
>>>
>>> Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the few
>>> listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
>>>
>>> -------------
>>> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>> Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
>>> It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
>>> insulation.
>>> The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow echo
>>> out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping sound
>>> from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
>
> Not quite true, but it all depends on the frequency of the noise.
> Bass notes come right through it but it really dampens higher
> frequencies.
>
The higher frequencies don't penetrate the mass of the sheetrock, the
bounce around inside. They do, however, leak through any tiny little
crack that will pass air.
Often, when people insulate an interior wall, they use a backed blanket
and you know how those things puff out from the studs, right? Many
times, the wallers don't screw the rock all the way to the studs... it
sit out from the studs 1/4" or more. This actually acts to create
uncoupled mass in the wall construction, which does more to stop sound
than the insulation. This acts a bit like z-channel.
Again, I'm not going to sit here and retype or cut-n-paste stuff from
websites (like a lot of guys often do). It's out there and can be
learned. I've helped design and build studios and drum isolation rooms,
so I have quite a bit of working knowledge and research under my belt.
> The point is: Every little bit helps when it comes to sound blocking,
> deadening, and absorbing.
>
Not really... but I understand your point. My point is that people do
lots of unnecessary things to try to stop sounds, which simply don't do
anything, or next to nothing.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Too lazy to substantiate your useless rants but not to lazy to type
them.
Too bad nobody is listening anymore.
-----------------
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Again, I'm not going to sit here and retype or cut-n-paste stuff from
websites (like a lot of guys often do). It's out there and can be
learned.
--
-MIKE-
On 10/4/11 8:09 AM, m II wrote:
> That was too easy as you just spouted more unsubstantiated BS and never
> any answers.
>
> Fibreglass insulations is good sound insulation. It isn't used due to
> the glass fibres people don't want to breath when left open.
>
> You need to do some actual research, not guess from what your fellow
> ignorants have guessed at and told you.
>
> Now you have`been told by me and several others here.
>
>
Let us all know when you move out of your mom's basement and get a
girlfriend, ok?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/4/2011 12:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/4/11 8:09 AM, m II wrote:
>> That was too easy as you just spouted more unsubstantiated BS and never
>> any answers.
>>
>> Fibreglass insulations is good sound insulation. It isn't used due to
>> the glass fibres people don't want to breath when left open.
>>
>> You need to do some actual research, not guess from what your fellow
>> ignorants have guessed at and told you.
>>
>> Now you have`been told by me and several others here.
>>
>>
>
> Let us all know when you move out of your mom's basement and get a
> girlfriend, ok?
>
In case I'm answering someone's question, when I put insulation in my
garage walls it "deadened" the room (as you might anticipate).
On 10/4/11 11:56 AM, Bill wrote:
> On 10/4/2011 12:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 10/4/11 8:09 AM, m II wrote:
>>> That was too easy as you just spouted more unsubstantiated BS and never
>>> any answers.
>>>
>>> Fibreglass insulations is good sound insulation. It isn't used due to
>>> the glass fibres people don't want to breath when left open.
>>>
>>> You need to do some actual research, not guess from what your fellow
>>> ignorants have guessed at and told you.
>>>
>>> Now you have`been told by me and several others here.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Let us all know when you move out of your mom's basement and get a
>> girlfriend, ok?
>>
>
>
> In case I'm answering someone's question, when I put insulation in my
> garage walls it "deadened" the room (as you might anticipate).
>
Soundproofing and sound-treating are two different animals.
Soundproofing: stopping as much sound as possible from leaving the room.
Sound-treating: stopping sound inside a room (or making it sound better).
People will often try to soundproof a room by erroneously using
sound-treatment techniques. They line the walls with all kinds of foam,
packing blankets, carpet, curtains and other sound absorbent/diffusing
materials. This makes for a very dead room inside. (It also explains the
horrible results heard from their recordings, but that's another story.)
But it does virtually nothing to soundproof the room.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/04/11 12:50 PM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
> On Oct 3, 1:50 am, "Ed Pawlowski"<[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Hoosierpopi"<[email protected]> wrote
> "If you have a cold basement and want to keep the heat upstairs, yes.
> In your case, you have a wood burner for heat and insulation will
> prevent it from heating the floor above. You can probably save 20% to
> 40$ on the oil bill if you upgrade the 40 year old furnace."
>
> Thanks, I think the studding and perimeter wall insulation is the way
> I will need to go. But, I have to address a moisture issue or two
> before cladding up the block walls down there. I can start on the rim-
> joist insulation (above the block wall) - that should help keep the
> cold out. Thanks again.
>
Rim joist insulation is a must.
Is the moisture problem a leak or just condensation?
Leaks can be a big job.
Condensation, vapour barrier, stud and insulate and you will be fine.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 10/5/11 7:43 AM, m II wrote:
> What Mike is saying has some logic to it.Just his attack expression
> method sucks.
Wow.... that's the weakest backpedaling I've ever witnessed.
"attack expression method?" You really need to work on your haphazard
inferences.
I made a simple statement of fact and you see it as an attack.
> Exposed insulation will absorb lots of sound (stop reflecting) but is
> undesirable for breathing.
>
> Inside the cavity of a wall is another story.
> The dry wall reflects the high freq. sounds and the insulation doesn't
> function much.
> Low freq. sounds vibrate the drywall and the studs passing right
> through, reproducing the sounds on the other side, again. Insulation in
> the cavities, may help dampen the stud motion, very slightly, but not much.
>
> To agree with Mike, sound passage **through** a wall is not changed much
> by cavity insulation.
>
Really? You think no one knows what just happened here?
Looks to me like you actually read some of the information I referenced
and it took you this long to get your foot out of your mouth. Instead of
apologizing, you post this, pretending like you knew it all along. But
wait, I thought it was "unsubstantiated BS?"
"You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to
the noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive." Sound
familiar. Say it again, while looking ion the mirror.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/5/11 8:23 PM, Dave wrote:
> On Wed, 05 Oct 2011 11:50:59 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> Really? You think no one knows what just happened here?
>
> Mike, Mike. You're trying reason with a factual moron. Don't waste
> your time.
You, Sir, are correct.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
You do nothing for this group when it comes to intelligence....add to
the noise in the group. greatly but nothing constructive.
Give us some cites for your unsubstantiated BS, for once. Impress the
few listeners that haven't killfiled you yet.
-------------
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Fiberglas insulation does virtually nothing in term of soundproofing.
It's a nice little marketing ploy my the Pink Panther to sell more
insulation.
The only "soundproofing" benefits might come from taking the hollow
echo
out from the wall when you bang against it. But as far as stopping
sound
from going through the wall, it does does virtually nothing.
--
-MIKE-