I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly large
number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that stains (some)
wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my first question
is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is no, as I
also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type
and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
I used bits of cork on one project, but it's a pain to stick a piece
behind each jaw while positioning the clamps. I could glue the cork on,
I suppose, but it doesn't seem like it would be very durable. I read
somewhere that leather is a good choice, but presumably it would have to
be an undyed, uncoated type.
What I would like, if possible, is some material that won't mar or stain
wood, but will last for a while, and an adhesive that will hold
acceptably, but can eventually be removed if the cover material wears out.
On Oct 3, 10:18=A0am, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
> soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly large
> number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that stains (some)
> wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my first question
> is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is no, as I
> also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
>
> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
> also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type
> and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>
> I used bits of cork on one project, but it's a pain to stick a piece
> behind each jaw while positioning the clamps. I could glue the cork on,
> I suppose, but it doesn't seem like it would be very durable. I read
> somewhere that leather is a good choice, but presumably it would have to
> be an undyed, uncoated type.
>
> What I would like, if possible, is some material that won't mar or stain
> wood, but will last for a while, and an adhesive that will hold
> acceptably, but can eventually be removed if the cover material wears out=
.
Whatever you line them with, it's still usually a good
idea to use a thick caul between the clamp and the
workpiece to spread the pressure more evenly across
the joint. Saves clamps, too, since you can set them
farther apart.
On Oct 4, 4:00=A0pm, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/4/2011 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>
> > There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. =A0I used to do what you ar=
e doing
> > without *any* pipe clamps. =A0I used the fence of my radial saw one one=
side;
> > for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and used wedges with it. =
=A0No
> > reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of 2x4s to a piece of plywood a=
nd
> > use wedges on both sides.
>
> That idea appeals to my practical side (which is all sides really), but
> wouldn't wedges apply pressure unevenly, perhaps putting the pieces out
> of square? I must not be visualizing it right. Maybe you use two wedges
> facing in opposite directions, laying down on their sides?
Yep. Or attach the block to match the wedge angle.
R
On Oct 3, 10:18=A0am, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
> soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly large
> number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that stains (some)
> wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my first question
> is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is no, as I
> also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
>
> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
> also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type
> and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>
> I used bits of cork on one project, but it's a pain to stick a piece
> behind each jaw while positioning the clamps. I could glue the cork on,
> I suppose, but it doesn't seem like it would be very durable. I read
> somewhere that leather is a good choice, but presumably it would have to
> be an undyed, uncoated type.
>
> What I would like, if possible, is some material that won't mar or stain
> wood, but will last for a while, and an adhesive that will hold
> acceptably, but can eventually be removed if the cover material wears out=
.
Search visually. An odd thing - you said bar clamps, but the term bar
clamp pads turns up store-bought solutions, and pipe clamp pads turns
up better solutions for you.
http://tinyurl.com/clamp-pads
R
On Oct 4, 9:51=A0am, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/3/2011 5:55 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>
> > Whatever you line them with, it's still usually a good
> > idea to use a thick *caul* between the clamp and the
> > workpiece to spread the pressure
>
> ...and there's my Word for the Day. You can scarcely imagine the search
> results I had to wade through before I got to anything resembling
> woodworking. Caul fat, amniotic sacs, vampires...
>
> I probably will have to something like that. I'm gluing oak 1x2 around
> the edges of a desktop (as a border) and don't have that many clamps of
> sufficient length. I was originally thinking of using one long piece of
> 2x3 on each side to spread out the pressure.
1x2 edging won't require great force. Attach two wooden blocks to the
2x with screws and glue, the blocks set a bit wider than the required
clamping distance, and use wedges to apply the clamping force.
R
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
>I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that
>have soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a
>fairly large number of complaints that the pads release a chemical
>that stains (some) wood. The complaints were all several years old,
>so my first question is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing
>the answer is no, as I also found a spate of complaints from several
>years before that.
>
> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that
> could also use some sort of covering. These include some of the
> "pipe" type and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>
> I used bits of cork on one project, but it's a pain to stick a piece
> behind each jaw while positioning the clamps. I could glue the cork
> on, I suppose, but it doesn't seem like it would be very durable. I
> read somewhere that leather is a good choice, but presumably it
> would have to be an undyed, uncoated type.
>
> What I would like, if possible, is some material that won't mar or
> stain wood, but will last for a while, and an adhesive that will
> hold acceptably, but can eventually be removed if the cover material
> wears out.
----------------------------
Cut some jaw sized pads from 9 ply birch ply, then counterbore a hole
to accept a small circular permanet magnet that you epoxy into c'bore.
Apply a couple of coats of shellac to seal 9 ply.
Have fun.
Lew
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
> Hmmm. Wood scraps.
-----------------------------------
Definitely not wood scraps, but rather an engineered device.
------------------------------------
> Any reason it needs to be ply?
--------------------------------
Not just any ply but 1/2"cabinet ply (9 Ply).
It has no voids, thus good in compression.
------------------------------------
> And what's
> the purpose of the shellac? So glue won't stick?
-----------------------------
You got it.
Keep a couple of dozen in a coffee can ready to go.
Lew
On Wed, 05 Oct 2011 09:50:54 -0400, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 10/5/2011 7:10 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 10/4/2011 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>>>>
>>>> There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. I used to do what you
>>>> are doing without *any* pipe clamps. I used the fence of my radial
>>>> saw one one side; for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and
>>>> used wedges with it. No reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of
>>>> 2x4s to a piece of plywood and use wedges on both sides.
>>>>
>>> That idea appeals to my practical side (which is all sides really),
>>> but wouldn't wedges apply pressure unevenly, perhaps putting the
>>> pieces out of square? I must not be visualizing it right.
>>
>>> Maybe you
>>> use two wedges facing in opposite directions, laying down on their
>>> sides?
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>> Wedges are always used in pairs.
>>
>Makes sense. If you wouldn't mind furthering my education (again) should
>I decide to make myself some wedges, what angle do you recommend?
I think 7-10 degrees is the norm. Steep enough to work but shallow
enough not to self-release.
>This could become useful pretty soon, as the desktop I'm making is 6
>feet long. I have actually unearthed one very old bar clamp of
>sufficient length (among the debris of an old plumber/kitchen
>installer), but one clamp won't do the job. I could buy some longer
>pieces of pipe, but this idea intrigues me.
Also look into cam clamps.
http://goo.gl/zzPqt them store-boughten wuns
http://woodworkstuff.net/HoweClamp.html diy
--
We are always the same age inside.
-- Gertrude Stein
I have an assortment of ply and solid wood scrap for buffering clamp
jaws. For non-stick surfaces, I have some scrap laminent flooring
pieces.
Often times, I have furniture that needs repair/reclamping (during the
upholstery process). The surfaces are finished, so I have a dozen or
so blocks wrapped with scrap upholstery fabric (stapled on the
backside), that prevents marring the furniture finish.
Sonny
Redwood is actually a listed hardwood. It just isn't the hardest.
The outside - bark is soft as a sponge - gives it fireproofing.
I used to own 3.5 acres of redwoods - up to 150 feet tall in 90 years!
They are great and expensive weeds. They grow anywhere - gutters to
cracks.
They used to go to the Mississippi river before the Rockies went skywards.
Martin
On 10/3/2011 6:38 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Oct 2011 12:48:05 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
>
>>> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
>>> also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type
>>> and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>>
>> For "F" style bar clamps, you can buy slip on pads...perhaps they would
>> fit your quik-grips. Might fit some of your pipe clamp[s too. I have
>> never had a problem with them staining.
>
> For the pipe clamps, make up some wood pieces with a hole drilled in them
> to fit over the pipe. A nice soft wood like redwood or cedar.
>
>
>
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> writes:
>I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
>soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly large
>number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that stains (some)
>wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my first question
>is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is no, as I
>also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
Use clear packing tape.
scott
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
>I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have soft
>orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly large number
>of complaints that the pads release a chemical that stains (some) wood. The
>complaints were all several years old, so my first question is, have they
>fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is no, as I also found a spate
>of complaints from several years before that.
>
> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
> also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type and
> some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>
> I used bits of cork on one project, but it's a pain to stick a piece
> behind each jaw while positioning the clamps. I could glue the cork on, I
> suppose, but it doesn't seem like it would be very durable. I read
> somewhere that leather is a good choice, but presumably it would have to
> be an undyed, uncoated type.
>
> What I would like, if possible, is some material that won't mar or stain
> wood, but will last for a while, and an adhesive that will hold
> acceptably, but can eventually be removed if the cover material wears out.
----------------------------
Cut some jaw sized pads from 9 ply birch ply, then counterbore a hole
to accept a small circular permanet magnet that you epoxy into c'bore.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The ply is a good idea although I would attach them with silicone and leave
them unfinished. They get a little grungy, a little sanding will fix it. If
they get to bad, it's easy enough to pull them off and replace them.
In article <[email protected]>,
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
> soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly large
> number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that stains (some)
> wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my first question
> is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is no, as I
> also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
>
> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
> also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type
> and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>
> I used bits of cork on one project, but it's a pain to stick a piece
> behind each jaw while positioning the clamps. I could glue the cork on,
> I suppose, but it doesn't seem like it would be very durable. I read
> somewhere that leather is a good choice, but presumably it would have to
> be an undyed, uncoated type.
>
> What I would like, if possible, is some material that won't mar or stain
> wood, but will last for a while, and an adhesive that will hold
> acceptably, but can eventually be removed if the cover material wears out.
To keep your cork or other facing material in place, use double sided
tape behind it. It will hold until the clamp is lined up. I use carpet
tape to do this, it is better than double sided scotch tape. If you take
it off the clamp as soon as you are done, very little adhesive stays
behind to clean up.
On 10/3/2011 11:45 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Greg Guarino<[email protected]> writes:
>> I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
>> soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly large
>> number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that stains (some)
>> wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my first question
>> is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is no, as I
>> also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
>
> Use clear packing tape.
>
> scott
That sounds like a possibility for clamps that are already "soft", but
my "pipe" type clamps have metal jaws.
Greg Guarino wrote:
> I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
> soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly
> large number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that
> stains (some) wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my
> first question is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is
> no, as I
> also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
>
> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that
> could also use some sort of covering. These include some of the
> "pipe" type and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
For "F" style bar clamps, you can buy slip on pads...perhaps they would fit
your quik-grips. Might fit some of your pipe clamp[s too. I have never had
a problem with them staining.
Mostly, for pipe clamps, I use nothing. I only use them for rough glue ups
so any marring gets whacked off anyway when I size the glue up. I sometimes
use a piece of softwood or mel board between pipe clamp ends and the glue up
but that is mostly to spread the pressure; however, it also can prevent
marring.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 10/3/11 1:56 PM, CW wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
> The ply is a good idea although I would attach them with silicone and
> leave them unfinished. They get a little grungy, a little sanding will
> fix it. If they get to bad, it's easy enough to pull them off and
> replace them.
>
I would want something on there to help keep the pads from getting glued
to whatever they are clamping.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/3/2011 2:38 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" wrote:
> ----------------------------
> Cut some jaw sized pads from 9 ply birch ply, then counterbore a hole
> to accept a small circular permanet magnet that you epoxy into c'bore.
>
> Apply a couple of coats of shellac to seal 9 ply.
Hmmm. Wood scraps. I hadn't thought of that. I certainly have enough
little bits floating around. Any reason it needs to be ply? And what's
the purpose of the shellac? So glue won't stick?
> Have fun.
In my own modest way, I am. All of a sudden I have lots of project
ideas. Relatively simple ones compared with the pictures I see here, but
satisfying nonetheless.
On 10/3/2011 12:48 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I just bought a couple (more) Jorgensen bar clamps, the type that have
>> soft orange pads on the jaws. But I have just stumbled on a fairly
>> large number of complaints that the pads release a chemical that
>> stains (some) wood. The complaints were all several years old, so my
>> first question is, have they fixed the problem? I'm guessing the answer is
>> no, as I
>> also found a spate of complaints from several years before that.
>>
>> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that
>> could also use some sort of covering. These include some of the
>> "pipe" type and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>
> For "F" style bar clamps, you can buy slip on pads...perhaps they would fit
> your quik-grips. Might fit some of your pipe clamp[s too. I have never had
> a problem with them staining.
The comments I read online were pretty disappointing. Apparently
Jorgensen has known about the problem for years but claims either that
the clamps were not designed for "long term" clamping (more than an hour
or two) or that sanding and finishing should obscure the marks. That's
hardly a satisfactory reaction to an acknowledged problem. The most
recent comments I found were 4 years old.
> Mostly, for pipe clamps, I use nothing. I only use them for rough glue ups
> so any marring gets whacked off anyway when I size the glue up.
My clamp arsenal is not large enough to allow for specialization like
that. I haven't done that many projects, but it is not uncommon for me
to be using *all* of the clamps that are long enough for the job.
My clamp collection is like me in that respect. Compared with most of
the people I know, I'm a certified genius at handyman tasks (and even
woodworking), mostly because they don't even make the attempt. But among
another class of friends (and here on RW), I'm the bumbling neophyte.
But I do start On-Topic threads. :)
I sometimes
> use a piece of softwood or mel board between pipe clamp ends and the glue up
> but that is mostly to spread the pressure; however, it also can prevent
> marring.
Mel board would be Melamine? I suppose I could cannibalize the next
piece of cast-off chipboard furniture I see on the street, but it
doesn't seem like a material that could spread the pressure very far.
Does it?
On Mon, 03 Oct 2011 12:48:05 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
>> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
>> also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type
>> and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>
> For "F" style bar clamps, you can buy slip on pads...perhaps they would
> fit your quik-grips. Might fit some of your pipe clamp[s too. I have
> never had a problem with them staining.
For the pipe clamps, make up some wood pieces with a hole drilled in them
to fit over the pipe. A nice soft wood like redwood or cedar.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 10/3/2011 7:38 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Oct 2011 12:48:05 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
>
>>> But whatever the answer is, I've got a bunch of other clamps that could
>>> also use some sort of covering. These include some of the "pipe" type
>>> and some quik-grips whose pads have gotten a tad mangy.
>>
>> For "F" style bar clamps, you can buy slip on pads...perhaps they would
>> fit your quik-grips. Might fit some of your pipe clamp[s too. I have
>> never had a problem with them staining.
>
> For the pipe clamps, make up some wood pieces with a hole drilled in them
> to fit over the pipe. A nice soft wood like redwood or cedar.
Like little wooden price tags! That's a great idea. I think I'll try it.
We bought a bunch of IKEA storage trays many years ago. Theyy were the
dimensions of a CD by maybe two feet long. That was 6" longer than the
depth of our shelves, so I cut them down. My Dad's son, I of course
saved the waste pieces. The material is 5/16" (or so) plywood composed
of very thin layers with black Melamine on one side. I don't know if
that qualifies as "soft", but someone suggested melamine elsewhere in
this thread. I'll be clamping Oak, so I don't imagine they need to be
too soft. Maybe that will be my first try.
On 10/3/2011 5:55 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> Whatever you line them with, it's still usually a good
> idea to use a thick *caul* between the clamp and the
> workpiece to spread the pressure
...and there's my Word for the Day. You can scarcely imagine the search
results I had to wade through before I got to anything resembling
woodworking. Caul fat, amniotic sacs, vampires...
I probably will have to something like that. I'm gluing oak 1x2 around
the edges of a desktop (as a border) and don't have that many clamps of
sufficient length. I was originally thinking of using one long piece of
2x3 on each side to spread out the pressure.
On 10/4/2011 5:25 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 10/3/2011 7:38 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
...
>> For the pipe clamps, make up some wood pieces with a hole drilled in them
>> to fit over the pipe. A nice soft wood like redwood or cedar.
>
> Like little wooden price tags! That's a great idea. I think I'll try it.
For a small number I did something similar but added a countersunk pin
into the face of the clamp so they don't spin. For long glue ups like
tabletops, I've a precut set of cauls that are 3-, 4-, 6-ft long w/
predrilled holes to align clamps that go over them all first so don't
roll and don't rely on just balancing inside the clamps to stay there.
But, as somebody else said, they're there _primarily_ for load
distribution and squaring up the surface to the work rather than the
staining or other since any defects get taken off after the glueup is
done anyway.
--
On Tue, 04 Oct 2011 07:42:27 -0700, Zz Yzx wrote:
> Yikes. Varied assoetments of pads run $3.99 - $4.99. But these:
>
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Adjustable-Clamp-Bar-Clamp-Pads-8-
Pack-7437/14294044
>
> must be REALLY REALLY good ones.
$19.99???????? The same pads are $3.71 on Amazon. Seems like Walmart
isn't *always* cheaper :-).
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 10/3/2011 5:55 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
>> Whatever you line them with, it's still usually a good
>> idea to use a thick *caul* between the clamp and the
>> workpiece to spread the pressure
>
> ...and there's my Word for the Day. You can scarcely imagine the
> search results I had to wade through before I got to anything
> resembling woodworking. Caul fat, amniotic sacs, vampires...
>
> I probably will have to something like that. I'm gluing oak 1x2 around
> the edges of a desktop (as a border) and don't have that many clamps
> of sufficient length. I was originally thinking of using one long
> piece of 2x3 on each side to spread out the pressure.
There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. I used to do what you are doing
without *any* pipe clamps. I used the fence of my radial saw one one side;
for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and used wedges with it. No
reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of 2x4s to a piece of plywood and
use wedges on both sides.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 10/4/2011 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>
> There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. I used to do what you are doing
> without *any* pipe clamps. I used the fence of my radial saw one one side;
> for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and used wedges with it. No
> reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of 2x4s to a piece of plywood and
> use wedges on both sides.
>
That idea appeals to my practical side (which is all sides really), but
wouldn't wedges apply pressure unevenly, perhaps putting the pieces out
of square? I must not be visualizing it right. Maybe you use two wedges
facing in opposite directions, laying down on their sides?
On 10/4/2011 9:34 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 10/4/2011 5:25 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 10/3/2011 7:38 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> ....
>>> For the pipe clamps, make up some wood pieces with a hole drilled in
>>> them
>>> to fit over the pipe. A nice soft wood like redwood or cedar.
>>
>> Like little wooden price tags! That's a great idea. I think I'll try it.
>
> For a small number I did something similar but added a countersunk pin
> into the face of the clamp so they don't spin. For long glue ups like
> tabletops, I've a precut set of cauls that are 3-, 4-, 6-ft long w/
> predrilled holes to align clamps that go over them all first so don't
> roll and don't rely on just balancing inside the clamps to stay there.
...
BTW, you asked about materials...it's not terribly important, I used
cutoffs of some soft maple for the ones I've done. The individual
pieces aren't very thick, half-inch or less w/o looking; the cauls are
nearly full inch thickness to be pretty stiff for load dispersal.
On the thing about the original plastic pads--I've some Jorgy bar clamps
w/ the orange pads and have never noticed them leaving any marks or
stains. Then again, if one lets a piece of oak touch a black pipe clamp
and glue, after the tannic acid stain there, a little spot on the edge
won't seem so bad... :)
--
On 10/4/2011 6:25 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 10/3/2011 7:38 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> On Mon, 03 Oct 2011 12:48:05 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
>>
>> For the pipe clamps, make up some wood pieces with a hole drilled in them
>> to fit over the pipe. A nice soft wood like redwood or cedar.
>
> Like little wooden price tags! That's a great idea. I think I'll try it.
>
<snip>
> The material is 5/16" (or so) plywood composed
> of very thin layers with black Melamine on one side.
I made a pair of the "price tags" this evening after work, using the
material I mentioned above. I cut them maybe twice the size of the metal
jaws, drilled 1-1/8" holes to accept the pipe and rounded the edges and
corners a bit. It took all of five minutes and they fit the clamp
nicely. If they work well in use, I'll make a bunch more. Thanks again.
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 10/4/2011 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>>
>> There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. I used to do what you
>> are doing without *any* pipe clamps. I used the fence of my radial
>> saw one one side; for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and
>> used wedges with it. No reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of
>> 2x4s to a piece of plywood and use wedges on both sides.
>>
> That idea appeals to my practical side (which is all sides really),
> but wouldn't wedges apply pressure unevenly, perhaps putting the
> pieces out of square? I must not be visualizing it right.
> Maybe you
> use two wedges facing in opposite directions, laying down on their
> sides?
Yes.
Wedges are always used in pairs.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 10/5/2011 7:10 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 10/4/2011 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>>>
>>> There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. I used to do what you
>>> are doing without *any* pipe clamps. I used the fence of my radial
>>> saw one one side; for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and
>>> used wedges with it. No reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of
>>> 2x4s to a piece of plywood and use wedges on both sides.
>>>
>> That idea appeals to my practical side (which is all sides really),
>> but wouldn't wedges apply pressure unevenly, perhaps putting the
>> pieces out of square? I must not be visualizing it right.
>
>> Maybe you
>> use two wedges facing in opposite directions, laying down on their
>> sides?
>
> Yes.
>
> Wedges are always used in pairs.
>
Makes sense. If you wouldn't mind furthering my education (again) should
I decide to make myself some wedges, what angle do you recommend?
This could become useful pretty soon, as the desktop I'm making is 6
feet long. I have actually unearthed one very old bar clamp of
sufficient length (among the debris of an old plumber/kitchen
installer), but one clamp won't do the job. I could buy some longer
pieces of pipe, but this idea intrigues me.
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 10/5/2011 7:10 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 10/4/2011 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>>>>
>>>> There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. I used to do what you
>>>> are doing without *any* pipe clamps. I used the fence of my radial
>>>> saw one one side; for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and
>>>> used wedges with it. No reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of
>>>> 2x4s to a piece of plywood and use wedges on both sides.
>>>>
>>> That idea appeals to my practical side (which is all sides really),
>>> but wouldn't wedges apply pressure unevenly, perhaps putting the
>>> pieces out of square? I must not be visualizing it right.
>>
>>> Maybe you
>>> use two wedges facing in opposite directions, laying down on their
>>> sides?
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>> Wedges are always used in pairs.
>>
> Makes sense. If you wouldn't mind furthering my education (again)
> should I decide to make myself some wedges, what angle do you
> recommend?
Never measured so I just did...they are about 18 degrees.
The less the angle the greater the mechanical advantage but you also have to
move them more to "spread" them a given distance.
Mine are fine for me. One tip, don't smooth the mating edges...if they are
rough there is much less tendency for them to slip (which has never been a
problem for me).
Larry Jaques mentioned cam clamps. They are handy too. In case you don't
know what they are, they are cut out of a piece of plywood (usually) and
look like a giant comma. The head of the comma is fastened down via an off
center hole; when you rotate the tail of the comma, the distance of the
head - being off center - to whatever you are clamping varies.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
I just slip a biscuit between the work and the clamp if I need
a quick pad.
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
On 10/4/2011 5:27 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 10/4/2011 9:34 AM, dpb wrote:
>> On 10/4/2011 5:25 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 10/3/2011 7:38 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
>> ....
>>>> For the pipe clamps, make up some wood pieces with a hole drilled in
>>>> them
>>>> to fit over the pipe. A nice soft wood like redwood or cedar.
>>>
>>> Like little wooden price tags! That's a great idea. I think I'll try it.
>>
>> For a small number I did something similar but added a countersunk pin
>> into the face of the clamp so they don't spin. For long glue ups like
>> tabletops, I've a precut set of cauls that are 3-, 4-, 6-ft long w/
>> predrilled holes to align clamps that go over them all first so don't
>> roll and don't rely on just balancing inside the clamps to stay there.
I made 5 sets of the "price tags" for my current project. They were a
vast improvement over loose pieces of scrap, but they did tend to spin,
as you mentioned.
This became a bit of a problem because I had to run some of the clamps
*under* my desktop project. I had really long clamps running above it,
in the long dimension. The Jorgensen clamps (two of the regular bar
clamps and one Cabinet Master) had enough jaw depth to span over the
other clamps, but my "pipe" clamps did not. The work piece was resting
on sawhorses, so I enlisted my wife and daughter to help position the
clamps that had to run underneath, and orient the "price tags" correctly.
>
> On the thing about the original plastic pads--I've some Jorgy bar clamps
> w/ the orange pads and have never noticed them leaving any marks or
> stains.
I didn't bother covering them, figuring I had some fairly serious
sanding to do anyway. They did indeed leave a mark, or at least the
round ones on the crank-adjustable end did. The one on the sliding jaw
did not. Curious.
My project should survive it, but that's pretty poor performance on the
part of a manufacturer who has known about this problem for many years.
On Wed, 5 Oct 2011 07:10:03 -0400, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 10/4/2011 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>>>
>>> There are lots of ways to improvise clamps. I used to do what you
>>> are doing without *any* pipe clamps. I used the fence of my radial
>>> saw one one side; for the other, I clamped a 2x4 to the table and
>>> used wedges with it. No reason you can't clamp or nail a couple of
>>> 2x4s to a piece of plywood and use wedges on both sides.
>>>
>> That idea appeals to my practical side (which is all sides really),
>> but wouldn't wedges apply pressure unevenly, perhaps putting the
>> pieces out of square? I must not be visualizing it right.
>
>> Maybe you
>> use two wedges facing in opposite directions, laying down on their
>> sides?
>
>Yes.
>
>Wedges are always used in pairs.
...unless you wish to clamp something which is not exactly square to
the faces of the clamp.
--
Worry is a misuse of imagination.
-- Dan Zadra
>Search visually. An odd thing - you said bar clamps, but the term bar
>clamp pads turns up store-bought solutions, and pipe clamp pads turns
>up better solutions for you.
>http://tinyurl.com/clamp-pads
>
>R
Yikes. Varied assoetments of pads run $3.99 - $4.99. But these:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Adjustable-Clamp-Bar-Clamp-Pads-8-Pack-7437/14294044
must be REALLY REALLY good ones.
-Zz