I'm considering using Waterlox Original as the only finish on an
unfinished kitchen table made of white oak. Certainly I'll be testing
whatever I use on the underside of a leaf, but I was curious if the
product changes the color of the oak beyond that which would be
expected with the application of any "wet" substance.
Larry Jaques <jake@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
> Go for it. It should hold up unless you set flaming pots
> on it.
Everything I've read says that the finish is pretty durable, but always
nice to get another opinion!
> No, and AAMOF, it lightens as it dries. It's not quite as dark
> dry as it is wet. Great stuff. I still haven't used it with
> enough coats to fill oak pores, but if you're like me, you like
> oak FOR the pores. It cleans surprisingly well.
Back in the old days (last month) when I was considering following the
advice of the unfinished furniture store to use multiple coats of Zar
water-based poly, my wife and I looked at the stain samples and decided
to use the stain that was one darker than using no stain at all. Just a
bit more of a "golden oak"-type coloration.
Now that I'm pretty sure I'm not going the water-based poly finish
route, I'm thinking that the slight coloration of the natural -finish
Waterlox might substitute for the stain.
I guess that's what testing is for! :-)
Bob Bowles <[email protected]> wrote:
> TransTint dyes can be used in waterbased finishes to get whatever
> color you want (almost). It is often used to get a slight ambering
> that oil based finishes provide without the oil based hassle of
> cleanup, odor and long dry times. Check www.homesteadfinishing.com
Thanks for the tip. I'll check out that product if the coloration I get
from several applications of Waterlox on the white oak isn't what I
want.
I've used it just this way & it will give a very nice, slightly amber tint.
Ladd Morse wrote:
> I'm considering using Waterlox Original as the only finish on an
> unfinished kitchen table made of white oak. Certainly I'll be testing
> whatever I use on the underside of a leaf, but I was curious if the
> product changes the color of the oak beyond that which would be
> expected with the application of any "wet" substance.
--
I AM NOT PARANOID .. .. .. but EVERYONE thinks I am !! !! !!
<<<__ Bob __>>>
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 11:42:27 -0500, [email protected] (Ladd Morse)
brought forth from the murky depths:
>I'm considering using Waterlox Original as the only finish on an
>unfinished kitchen table made of white oak. Certainly I'll be testing
Go for it. It should hold up unless you set flaming pots
on it.
>whatever I use on the underside of a leaf, but I was curious if the
>product changes the color of the oak beyond that which would be
>expected with the application of any "wet" substance.
No, and AAMOF, it lightens as it dries. It's not quite as dark
dry as it is wet. Great stuff. I still haven't used it with
enough coats to fill oak pores, but if you're like me, you like
oak FOR the pores. It cleans surprisingly well.
--
Music washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.
---- --Unknown
TransTint dyes can be used in waterbased finishes to get whatever
color you want (almost). It is often used to get a slight ambering
that oil based finishes provide without the oil based hassle of
cleanup, odor and long dry times. Check www.homesteadfinishing.com
On Sun, 2 Nov 2003 12:14:05 -0500, [email protected] (Ladd Morse)
wrote:
>Back in the old days (last month) when I was considering following the
>advice of the unfinished furniture store to use multiple coats of Zar
>water-based poly, my wife and I looked at the stain samples and decided
>to use the stain that was one darker than using no stain at all. Just a
>bit more of a "golden oak"-type coloration.