Kitchen Painting Question?

On 3/15/2012 9:37 AM, Rich wrote:
> I have painted and rebuilt 7 kitchen in the last year and every now and then
> I get what I believe they call Flashing on some wide long panels like pantry
> and oven cabinets. What causes this? By Flashing I mean some areas are more
> glossy then others. Is it the wood or the way I'm painting them? I use a
> high end 3 stage Earlex HVLP gun and turbine. Spraying Dunn-Edwards exterior
> usually white enamel which in California is probably a latex to some extent.
>
> Found a cabinet millworks outfit that supplies cabinet doors, drawer fronts,
> drawer boxes with 4 corner dovetails, and cabinet boxes if needed. All are
> made from whatever species of wood you need and they can build all these for
> cheaper then I can buy the material.
>
> Thanks,
> Rich

Exposure during dry time. If you paint/varnish several boards and
partially protect the surface, like leaning them directly over each
other at an angle but not touching, the area that is more protected will
tend to be less glossy.

If you have a condition where your paint is drying faster in some parts
than others you surface will differ in gloss.

On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 07:37:29 -0700, Rich <[email protected]> wrote:

>I have painted and rebuilt 7 kitchen in the last year and every now and then
>I get what I believe they call Flashing on some wide long panels like pantry
>and oven cabinets. What causes this? By Flashing I mean some areas are more
>glossy then others. Is it the wood or the way I'm painting them? I use a
>high end 3 stage Earlex HVLP gun and turbine. Spraying Dunn-Edwards exterior
>usually white enamel which in California is probably a latex to some extent.
>
>Found a cabinet millworks outfit that supplies cabinet doors, drawer fronts,
>drawer boxes with 4 corner dovetails, and cabinet boxes if needed. All are
>made from whatever species of wood you need and they can build all these for
>cheaper then I can buy the material.

4 possibilities I see are:

1) Under/overspray. Look at your spraying technique. Ask someone
else to film you or critique you when you spray to pick up any
problems.

2) Lack of primer. If you primed the wood properly, discount that
one.

3) Are you blending the paint well enough before pouring it into the
cup? Unmixed additives can make a big difference.

4) Are you waiting until the first coat is completely dry? Dry to the
touch and recoatable are often two different things. Some paints have
windows. (IE, either paint within 2 hours or after 24 hours, etc.)

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

Larry Jaques wrote:

> On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 07:37:29 -0700, Rich <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I have painted and rebuilt 7 kitchen in the last year and every now and
>>then I get what I believe they call Flashing on some wide long panels like
>>pantry and oven cabinets. What causes this? By Flashing I mean some areas
>>are more glossy then others. Is it the wood or the way I'm painting them?
>>I use a high end 3 stage Earlex HVLP gun and turbine. Spraying
>>Dunn-Edwards exterior usually white enamel which in California is probably
>>a latex to some extent.
>>
>>Found a cabinet millworks outfit that supplies cabinet doors, drawer
>>fronts, drawer boxes with 4 corner dovetails, and cabinet boxes if needed.
>>All are made from whatever species of wood you need and they can build all
>>these for cheaper then I can buy the material.
>
> 4 possibilities I see are:
>
> 1) Under/overspray. Look at your spraying technique. Ask someone
> else to film you or critique you when you spray to pick up any
> problems.

Don't think is this. I spray fairly close to my work, 6-8"

>
> 2) Lack of primer. If you primed the wood properly, discount that
> one.

Prime everything. Zinsser Stain Blocker Primer. The good stuff.
>
> 3) Are you blending the paint well enough before pouring it into the
> cup? Unmixed additives can make a big difference.

Haven't used an additive? Thinned a bit with water. What do you suggest as
an additive and should I be using distilled water?

>
> 4) Are you waiting until the first coat is completely dry? Dry to the
> touch and recoatable are often two different things. Some paints have
> windows. (IE, either paint within 2 hours or after 24 hours, etc.)

This is the one thing I know I haven't done. This could be my problem. Try
to get all the painting done in one day.

Is there a sandpaper grit that I can use that will take down very little
paint but will smooth and shin the semi gloss paint?

Thank you for the response, and any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!

Rich

>
> --
> Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
> This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

Rich wrote:

>> 3) Are you blending the paint well enough before pouring it into the
>> cup? Unmixed additives can make a big difference.
>
> Haven't used an additive? Thinned a bit with water. What do you
> suggest as an additive and should I be using distilled water?

I think he is probably referring to additives already in the paint;
specifically, flatting agent. Anything other than glossy would have it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH wrote:

> Rich wrote:
>
>>> 3) Are you blending the paint well enough before pouring it into the
>>> cup? Unmixed additives can make a big difference.
>>
>> Haven't used an additive? Thinned a bit with water. What do you
>> suggest as an additive and should I be using distilled water?
>
> I think he is probably referring to additives already in the paint;
> specifically, flatting agent. Anything other than glossy would have it.
>
Not sure about them, but I know Dunn Edwards is probably one of the best or
better paints you can get in California. It does flow nicely and with my
sprayer setup doesn't take much thinning. Thinking my problem is because I'm
not giving enough time between coats.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 10:21:48 -0700, Rich <[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 07:37:29 -0700, Rich <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>I have painted and rebuilt 7 kitchen in the last year and every now and
>>>then I get what I believe they call Flashing on some wide long panels like
>>>pantry and oven cabinets. What causes this? By Flashing I mean some areas
>>>are more glossy then others. Is it the wood or the way I'm painting them?
>>>I use a high end 3 stage Earlex HVLP gun and turbine. Spraying
>>>Dunn-Edwards exterior usually white enamel which in California is probably
>>>a latex to some extent.
>>>
>>>Found a cabinet millworks outfit that supplies cabinet doors, drawer
>>>fronts, drawer boxes with 4 corner dovetails, and cabinet boxes if needed.
>>>All are made from whatever species of wood you need and they can build all
>>>these for cheaper then I can buy the material.
>>
>> 4 possibilities I see are:
>>
>> 1) Under/overspray. Look at your spraying technique. Ask someone
>> else to film you or critique you when you spray to pick up any
>> problems.
>
>Don't think is this. I spray fairly close to my work, 6-8"

Have someone watch, or set up a video recorder to do it. YOu might see
something that you don't from a different position.


>> 2) Lack of primer. If you primed the wood properly, discount that
>> one.
>
>Prime everything. Zinsser Stain Blocker Primer. The good stuff.

OK.


>> 3) Are you blending the paint well enough before pouring it into the
>> cup? Unmixed additives can make a big difference.
>
>Haven't used an additive? Thinned a bit with water. What do you suggest as
>an additive and should I be using distilled water?

I meant the additives they use to blend the paint in the first place.
Good water could make a difference in some places, I guess.


>> 4) Are you waiting until the first coat is completely dry? Dry to the
>> touch and recoatable are often two different things. Some paints have
>> windows. (IE, either paint within 2 hours or after 24 hours, etc.)
>
>This is the one thing I know I haven't done. This could be my problem. Try
>to get all the painting done in one day.

Impatience ruins more finishes, opaques or clearcoats, than any single
other thing. Ten degrees can make the difference between a 30 minute
drying cycle and a four hour drying cycle.


>Is there a sandpaper grit that I can use that will take down very little
>paint but will smooth and shin the semi gloss paint?

I doubt it. Ask someone who paints more. I've read several books but
have done little spraying. I was best buds with a painter of cars, so
I have more insight than I would otherwise. He answered all my house
and metal shelving painting questions, too.

Give a brown paper bag a try on a dull area and see if that helps at
all. It's somewhat like a 600 or 800 grit paper.


>Thank you for the response, and any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!

Jewelcome.

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

I would like to think it is the wait between coats.

What happens with paints, even latex is that they gas off.

If you lay down a coat without the process of gassing off complete air
bubbles will prevent the next coat from flowing out properly. So that
area would not be glossy.

Just a thought.

On 3/15/2012 3:41 PM, Rich wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>
>> Rich wrote:
>>
>>>> 3) Are you blending the paint well enough before pouring it into the
>>>> cup? Unmixed additives can make a big difference.
>>>
>>> Haven't used an additive? Thinned a bit with water. What do you
>>> suggest as an additive and should I be using distilled water?
>>
>> I think he is probably referring to additives already in the paint;
>> specifically, flatting agent. Anything other than glossy would have it.
>>
> Not sure about them, but I know Dunn Edwards is probably one of the best or
> better paints you can get in California. It does flow nicely and with my
> sprayer setup doesn't take much thinning. Thinking my problem is because I'm
> not giving enough time between coats.