I have a little flush-cut pull saw (Shark brand plug/dowel saw), and I
like the easy, clean cuts. However, when I actually use it to cut a
plug flush with a surface, I can't keep it from scratching up the
surrounding area. I've tried putting a 3x5 card under it as a guard,
which helps, but it's a pain. I could always sand down the surrounding
area, but that seems to kind of defeat the purpose of a clean-cutting
flush saw.
My question: Is this a problem with my technique, my saw, or just the
nature of flush cutting saws?
Any advice or shared experience would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy
Andy wrote:
> I have a little flush-cut pull saw (Shark brand plug/dowel saw), and I
> like the easy, clean cuts. However, when I actually use it to cut a
> plug flush with a surface, I can't keep it from scratching up the
> surrounding area. I've tried putting a 3x5 card under it as a guard,
> which helps, but it's a pain. I could always sand down the surrounding
> area, but that seems to kind of defeat the purpose of a clean-cutting
> flush saw.
> My question: Is this a problem with my technique, my saw, or just the
> nature of flush cutting saws?
> Any advice or shared experience would be much appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Andy
try lapping the flush side of the saw lightly on a fine sharpening
stone.
"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My question: Is this a problem with my technique, my saw, or just the
> nature of flush cutting saws?
> Any advice or shared experience would be much appreciated.
Don't cut flush. cut close and pare with a plane or chisel.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Try a sharp chisel.
>
>
You have to be very careful with a sharp chisel. I f you cut the plug from
the wrong side of the grain the plug typically breaks off below the surface.
Andy wrote:
> I have a little flush-cut pull saw (Shark brand plug/dowel saw), and I
> like the easy, clean cuts. However, when I actually use it to cut a
> plug flush with a surface, I can't keep it from scratching up the
> surrounding area. I've tried putting a 3x5 card under it as a guard,
> which helps, but it's a pain. I could always sand down the surrounding
> area, but that seems to kind of defeat the purpose of a clean-cutting
> flush saw.
> My question: Is this a problem with my technique, my saw, or just the
> nature of flush cutting saws?
> Any advice or shared experience would be much appreciated.
Try a sharp chisel.
Lew
On 9 Nov 2005 14:34:20 -0800, "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a little flush-cut pull saw (Shark brand plug/dowel saw), and I
>like the easy, clean cuts. However, when I actually use it to cut a
>plug flush with a surface, I can't keep it from scratching up the
>surrounding area.
There should be _no_ set on one side (possibly two) of this saw. As the
teeth on Japanese saws are thin and fragile, then they are easily
damaged and given incorrect set. Make sure that yours is correctly set,
if necessary by stoning (or even bending) the offending tooth. It may
well just be one tooth that's causing the trouble. A flush-trimming saw
like this really needs to be kept for just this.
You'd be better off with a better saw too - those Shark saws are _very_
low end. The teeth are pretty soft on them.
Personally I've never found this sort of saw to be much use. I take my
treenails down with a chainsaw, broadaxe or whatever's nearest, then
finish them flush with a block plane.
On 9 Nov 2005 14:34:20 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, "Andy"
<[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>I have a little flush-cut pull saw (Shark brand plug/dowel saw), and I
>like the easy, clean cuts. However, when I actually use it to cut a
>plug flush with a surface, I can't keep it from scratching up the
>surrounding area. I've tried putting a 3x5 card under it as a guard,
>which helps, but it's a pain. I could always sand down the surrounding
>area, but that seems to kind of defeat the purpose of a clean-cutting
>flush saw.
>My question: Is this a problem with my technique, my saw, or just the
>nature of flush cutting saws?
They're "sided", Andy. One side's teeth are flush with the body
of the saw. If you try to cut from the other side, it can mar the
finish. If you know you're using it from the correct side, try
running it across a 1200 grit diamond plate to take off any burrs
from the original sharpening. (Or just buy a LVT saw. ;)
>Any advice or shared experience would be much appreciated.
I've had no trouble with the Lee Valley flush-cut saw. Perhaps
they're better finished.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
A PSYCHOLOGIST looks at everyone -else- || http://www.diversify.com
when an attractive woman enters the room. || Full Website Programming
You need to purchase a real - flush cutting saw or change your technique. A
flush cutting blade has not offset on the teeth - nada, none, zilch. You
hold the blade flat on the surface next to the piece you want to cut flush
and make a scoring cut - call this the backside. Now move the blade around
to the front side. With the blade flat, use two fingers to straddle the
piece to cut-off and press down on the blade to keep it flat. Now, slowly
move the blade handle upwards so the blade bends slightly (15° angle), have
the blade position so it goes with the grain (should have said this first)
and start sawing.
The kerf you cut on the backside prevents any tearout and if you have a real
flush cutting saw, the only sanding necessary will be satisfy your instinct
that everything must be sanded... My saw is from England and not that,
that makes it better than others but I don't have any marks on the adjacent
wood from cutting a dowel or a peg. By keeping even pressure on the blade
with your fingers and letting the blade move under them (back and forth)
that blade has to stay flush with the surface and as long as the teeth have
no offset - they can't leave saw marks. So it's technique or a lousy
blade - pick one - your choice.......;-)
Bob S.
"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a little flush-cut pull saw (Shark brand plug/dowel saw), and I
> like the easy, clean cuts. However, when I actually use it to cut a
> plug flush with a surface, I can't keep it from scratching up the
> surrounding area. I've tried putting a 3x5 card under it as a guard,
> which helps, but it's a pain. I could always sand down the surrounding
> area, but that seems to kind of defeat the purpose of a clean-cutting
> flush saw.
> My question: Is this a problem with my technique, my saw, or just the
> nature of flush cutting saws?
> Any advice or shared experience would be much appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Andy
>