I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. I make a lot
of picture frames and stretchers. Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". I miter the corners, cut
biscuit slots, and glue them together.
Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
On 1/10/2012 12:54 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 1/10/2012 1:41 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
>>
>> However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. I make a lot
>> of picture frames and stretchers. Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
>> generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". I miter the corners, cut
>> biscuit slots, and glue them together.
>>
>> Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
>>
>> If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
>> expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
>
> Why on earth would you choose (I presume since you're talking of
> expanding) a polyurethane glue for such purposes?
>
> There's nothing to be gained and there certainly isn't any need for the
> waterproof properties to justify the cost and the extra cleanup effort
> vis a vis a water-based glue.
>
> Plus, it takes moisture _from_ the surrounding wood to aid in curing
> while the plan is with biscuits for the water _in_the_glue_ to expand
> them to make a tight fit in the slot.
>
> All in all, I say "no" (even trying to discount my bias against
> polyurethane glues in general).
>
Plus, if you use too much, it foams out all over, making a messy cleanup
job.
"dpb" wrote:
> Why on earth would you choose (I presume since you're talking of
> expanding) a polyurethane glue for such purposes?
-----------------------------
Gorilla glue, totally over engineered and under peckered.
Ranks right up there with tits on a boar hog as being totally
uselerss, IMHO.
You will never find it in my boat yard.
Lew
On 1/10/2012 5:26 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> On Jan 10, 11:41 am, Keith Nuttle<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
>>
>> However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. I make a lot
>> of picture frames and stretchers. Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
>> generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". I miter the corners, cut
>> biscuit slots, and glue them together.
>>
>> Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
>>
>> If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
>> expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
>
> Many different published tests have shown Gorilla as usually the
> least effective for wood joints.
OTOH, Gorilla duct tape is really good. Maybe use it in place of
Gorilla Glue?
On 1/10/2012 1:41 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
>
> However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. I make a lot
> of picture frames and stretchers. Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
> generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". I miter the corners, cut
> biscuit slots, and glue them together.
>
> Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
>
> If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
> expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
That would depend on which Gorilla Glue you use. Try using the White
Gorilla glue vs. the polyurethane.
On Jan 10, 11:41=A0am, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
>
> However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. =A0I make a lo=
t
> of picture frames and stretchers. =A0Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
> generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". =A0 I miter the corners, cut
> biscuit slots, and glue them together.
>
> Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
>
> If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
> expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
Many different published tests have shown Gorilla as usually the
leaset effective for wood joints.
"dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 1/14/2012 10:42 AM, scritch wrote:
> Fine Woodworking did a test of various glues using bridle joints as
> their test joints. Gorilla Glue did not fare well. Regular old PVA
> woodworking glue is what to use for interior joints on non-oily wood.
>
> However, the most important thing I gleaned from the article is that for
> PVA glues the critical factor is clamping pressure. LOTS of pressure.
> It's almost impossible to put too much pressure. The strongest joints
> were made with freshly-planed (not roughened for "grip") joint surfaces,
> a moderate amount of glue, and lots of even pressure. It has changed the
> way I work and for once I can make those airtight joints I always sought.
>
> And I have an excuse to get even more clamps!
Indeed, pressure is good and the idea of pressure "glue starving" is
overblown. I don't have the link otomh, but there was also an article
in FWW not terribly long ago about clamping pressure based on research
from the Forest Products Lab. While it was done for commercial
applications in mind, its recommendations for optimal clamping pressure
were/are mind-boggling in terms of actual clamping pressures that
produced optimal results, indeed.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It says on the Titebond page to clamp at 125 to 250 PSI.
On Jan 10, 11:41=A0am, Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
Stop looking. I wasted a bunch of nice material using that crap when
it first hit the market.
Never again. Just use regular Titebond 2 or 3.
dpb wrote the following:
> On 1/10/2012 5:43 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> See Gorilla Glue on ABPW.
> ...
>
> No can do, sorry...this newsserver doesn't do binaries and I'm not going
> elsewhere... :)
>
> What's it show/say?
>
> --
>
A faux ad for GG. A gorilla hand holding the bottle of GG.
The caption is:
"Gorilla Glue
For mending your gorilla".
Didn't even get a chuckle out of me.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @
On 1/10/2012 1:41 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
>
> However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. I make a lot
> of picture frames and stretchers. Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
> generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". I miter the corners, cut
> biscuit slots, and glue them together.
>
> Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
>
> If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
> expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
Why on earth would you choose (I presume since you're talking of
expanding) a polyurethane glue for such purposes?
There's nothing to be gained and there certainly isn't any need for the
waterproof properties to justify the cost and the extra cleanup effort
vis a vis a water-based glue.
Plus, it takes moisture _from_ the surrounding wood to aid in curing
while the plan is with biscuits for the water _in_the_glue_ to expand
them to make a tight fit in the slot.
All in all, I say "no" (even trying to discount my bias against
polyurethane glues in general).
--
On 1/10/2012 2:30 PM, Just Wondering wrote:
> On 1/10/2012 12:54 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 1/10/2012 1:41 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>>> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
>>>
>>> However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. I make a lot
>>> of picture frames and stretchers. Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
>>> generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". I miter the corners, cut
>>> biscuit slots, and glue them together.
>>>
>>> Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
>>>
>>> If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
>>> expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
>>
>> Why on earth would you choose (I presume since you're talking of
>> expanding) a polyurethane glue for such purposes?
>>
>> There's nothing to be gained and there certainly isn't any need for the
>> waterproof properties to justify the cost and the extra cleanup effort
>> vis a vis a water-based glue.
>>
>> Plus, it takes moisture _from_ the surrounding wood to aid in curing
>> while the plan is with biscuits for the water _in_the_glue_ to expand
>> them to make a tight fit in the slot.
>>
>> All in all, I say "no" (even trying to discount my bias against
>> polyurethane glues in general).
>>
> Plus, if you use too much, it foams out all over, making a messy cleanup job.
The fact that it's a sticky noxious concoction that doesn't clean up with water
kills it for me; done, end of story The fact that it has poor strength
compared to PVA glues is just the icing on the cake.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 1/10/12 1:41 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> I have used Gorilla glue for some projects, and like what I see.
>
> However I have a concern about converting to Gorilla glue. I make a lot
> of picture frames and stretchers. Most are standard Fur, pine, or the
> generic "White wood" 1"-material ie 3/4". I miter the corners, cut
> biscuit slots, and glue them together.
>
> Gorilla Glue expands as it drys.
>
> If Gorilla Glue is used in the miter slots with biscuits, will the glue
> expand sufficiently to split the 1" material?
It's not going to split anything. But stop using it for interior wood
joints. Elmers white school glue is stronger than Gorilla(poly).
Yellow carpenters' glue is a *lot* stronger.
Unless you're needing waterproof or your are trying to join
plastic/metal/wood, etc together, plain old wood glue is a much better
choice.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 1/10/2012 3:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "dpb" wrote:
>
>> Why on earth would you choose (I presume since you're talking of
>> expanding) a polyurethane glue for such purposes?
> -----------------------------
> Gorilla glue, totally over engineered and under peckered.
>
> Ranks right up there with tits on a boar hog as being totally
> uselerss, IMHO.
>
> You will never find it in my boat yard.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
OP: I believe that in looking at the expansion properties of Gorilla
Glue, I over looked the most important thing which was mentioned above,
and that is the need for moisture for a good biscuit joint. While
everything said is valid, the moisture thing is the deciding fact
against using it for biscuited joint. I will not give up biscuits,
and will continue to use my old glue.
BUT you have to admit "Gorilla" Glue sound good.
On 1/10/2012 4:16 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
...
> BUT you have to admit "Gorilla" Glue sound good.
If it only lived up to the name. :(
Of course, it's not Gorilla's fault; it's just the nature of the beast
(so to speak, wink, wink :) ) w/ a polyurethane glue. All other
manufacturers' acts the same way re: foaming, etc. (and is equivalent in
strength (or weakness) as well).
--
On 1/11/2012 2:47 AM, Just Wondering wrote:
> On 1/10/2012 5:26 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
...
>> Many different published tests have shown Gorilla as usually the
>> least effective for wood joints.
>
> OTOH, Gorilla duct tape is really good. Maybe use it in place of Gorilla
> Glue?
Well, it used to be simple that "Gorilla glue" was the polyurethane
product. Now they also have a wood glue so the brand w/o the type isn't
definitive.
As noted elsewhere, polyurethane glues in general don't match the
strength for wood-wood joints of the PVA glues so it isn't Gorilla's
fault there's doesn't, either. It fits in the class of the particular
product as do the others on the market. If it weren't for the catchy
name and massive ad campaign, nobody would have ever "discovered" its
existence.
I've not tried their duct tape nor the wood glue (I've yet to see the
latter on a store shelf locally to have the opportunity).
--
Fine Woodworking did a test of various glues using bridle joints as
their test joints. Gorilla Glue did not fare well. Regular old PVA
woodworking glue is what to use for interior joints on non-oily wood.
However, the most important thing I gleaned from the article is that for
PVA glues the critical factor is clamping pressure. LOTS of pressure.
It's almost impossible to put too much pressure. The strongest joints
were made with freshly-planed (not roughened for "grip") joint surfaces,
a moderate amount of glue, and lots of even pressure. It has changed
the way I work and for once I can make those airtight joints I always
sought.
And I have an excuse to get even more clamps!
On 1/14/2012 10:42 AM, scritch wrote:
> Fine Woodworking did a test of various glues using bridle joints as
> their test joints. Gorilla Glue did not fare well. Regular old PVA
> woodworking glue is what to use for interior joints on non-oily wood.
>
> However, the most important thing I gleaned from the article is that for
> PVA glues the critical factor is clamping pressure. LOTS of pressure.
> It's almost impossible to put too much pressure. The strongest joints
> were made with freshly-planed (not roughened for "grip") joint surfaces,
> a moderate amount of glue, and lots of even pressure. It has changed the
> way I work and for once I can make those airtight joints I always sought.
>
> And I have an excuse to get even more clamps!
Indeed, pressure is good and the idea of pressure "glue starving" is
overblown. I don't have the link otomh, but there was also an article
in FWW not terribly long ago about clamping pressure based on research
from the Forest Products Lab. While it was done for commercial
applications in mind, its recommendations for optimal clamping pressure
were/are mind-boggling in terms of actual clamping pressures that
produced optimal results, indeed.
--
On 1/15/2012 12:05 AM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> On 1/14/2012 10:42 AM, scritch wrote:
>> Fine Woodworking did a test of various glues using bridle joints as
>> their test joints. Gorilla Glue did not fare well. Regular old PVA
>> woodworking glue is what to use for interior joints on non-oily wood.
>>
>> However, the most important thing I gleaned from the article is that for
>> PVA glues the critical factor is clamping pressure. LOTS of pressure.
>> It's almost impossible to put too much pressure. The strongest joints
>> were made with freshly-planed (not roughened for "grip") joint surfaces,
>> a moderate amount of glue, and lots of even pressure. It has changed the
>> way I work and for once I can make those airtight joints I always sought.
>>
>> And I have an excuse to get even more clamps!
>
> Indeed, pressure is good and the idea of pressure "glue starving" is
> overblown. I don't have the link otomh, but there was also an article
> in FWW not terribly long ago about clamping pressure based on research
> from the Forest Products Lab. While it was done for commercial
> applications in mind, its recommendations for optimal clamping pressure
> were/are mind-boggling in terms of actual clamping pressures that
> produced optimal results, indeed.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> It says on the Titebond page to clamp at 125 to 250 PSI.
Titebond is not the only glue used here.
ANY epoxy can be over clamped and starved.