so i picked some of this stuff up and when applied to metal, cloth, or
wood...it didn't heat up like the warning on the back of the can said.
i even poured some in a jar and set it down to see how long it would
take to become a bit thicker (for my intended application)...it's still
as runny as day 1. it's now been about 3 weeks.
has anyone experienced this? i know the warnings are there to cover
the ass of the manufacturer....but...
one other question about wood.....specifically teak wood. i'd like to
make a base for a wheeltruing stand like this....
http://idata.over-blog.com/0/06/03/41/mes-outils/poste-de-montage-park-tool-ts2.jpg
the base would only ever see a pile of spokes, and maybe a bottle of
oil or a pencil so no real heavy use....
my question is....does the teak wood need to be conditioned or sealed
or treated in anyway before putting it to use? would honduras mahogany
(my other choice) be any better suited.
the stand will not move from its place on my bench. this is not
something i will travel with.
my other options are various types of maple (but i don't much care for
the light colored woods) and maybe something else i haven't thought of.
"sal bass" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> so i picked some of this stuff up and when applied to metal, cloth, or
> wood...it didn't heat up like the warning on the back of the can said.
> i even poured some in a jar and set it down to see how long it would
> take to become a bit thicker (for my intended application)...it's still
> as runny as day 1. it's now been about 3 weeks.
>
> has anyone experienced this? i know the warnings are there to cover
> the ass of the manufacturer....but...
>
>
> one other question about wood.....specifically teak wood. i'd like to
> make a base for a wheeltruing stand like this....
>
> http://idata.over-blog.com/0/06/03/41/mes-outils/poste-de-montage-park-tool-ts2.jpg
>
> the base would only ever see a pile of spokes, and maybe a bottle of
> oil or a pencil so no real heavy use....
>
> my question is....does the teak wood need to be conditioned or sealed
> or treated in anyway before putting it to use? would honduras mahogany
> (my other choice) be any better suited.
>
> the stand will not move from its place on my bench. this is not
> something i will travel with.
>
> my other options are various types of maple (but i don't much care for
> the light colored woods) and maybe something else i haven't thought of.
>
BLO is usually mixed/thinned 2/3 - 1/3 with turpentine and will indeed dry
very slowly. In my experience, drying is not the right word for BLO - is
just soaks into the wood. In a jar, it may take months.
All precautions should apply when dealing with oily rags. They will
spontaneously combust in the right situation. (I rinse mine in water, hang
to dry outside for a few days before disposal.)
For the stand in the link, teak, mahogany, walnut will do fine. However, if
just a shop stand, why not make one from a less expensive wood? Oak, Pine,
Alder, Poplar stained dark?
Dave
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weird........i had a rag that had about a 4" by 4" area soaked quite
well....and it didn't even /feel/ warm.
maybe i got the cheap stuff? the brand is called Crown.
Dave W wrote:
> Be careful with linseed oil; if you use it on a rag and crumple the rag in
> the trash, a fire is not only possible but likely. Heat is generated by
> oxidation of the oil as it dries. Heed the warning.
>
> Dave
not a shop but for my personal use here at home.
stains are nice but i seem them in the same way i see cologne. a bit
deceptive.
which of the ones you list is the darkest?
Teamcasa wrote:
> For the stand in the link, teak, mahogany, walnut will do fine. However, if
> just a shop stand, why not make one from a less expensive wood? Oak, Pine,
> Alder, Poplar stained dark?
>
> Dave
>
Snip
>
> which of the ones you list is the darkest?
>
>
>
> Teamcasa wrote:
>
>> For the stand in the link, teak, mahogany, walnut will do fine. However,
>> if
>> just a shop stand, why not make one from a less expensive wood? Oak,
>> Pine,
>> Alder, Poplar stained dark?
>>
>> Dave
American Black Walnut is generally the darkest of the three.
Dave
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"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Be careful with linseed oil; if you use it on a rag and crumple the rag in
> the trash, a fire is not only possible but likely. Heat is generated by
> oxidation of the oil as it dries. Heed the warning.
>
> Dave
Maybe I should take some camping?? :)
sal bass wrote:
> so i picked some of this stuff up and when applied to metal, cloth, or
> wood...it didn't heat up like the warning on the back of the can
> said. i even poured some in a jar and set it down to see how long it
> would take to become a bit thicker (for my intended
> application)...it's still as runny as day 1. it's now been about 3
> weeks.
The oil dries by relatively slow oxidation, not evaporation. A jar of the
stuff might form a skin but isn't going to thicken.
A rag or paper towel full of BLO *may* generate enough heat to ignite
because the oil is spread over a large area and therefore oxidizes more
rapidly.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
If you *want* it to get hot, crumple it up and put it somewhere there isn't
a lot of air circulating to dissipate the heat.
dadiOH
___________
sal bass wrote:
> i see. that makes a lot of sense. maybe i'll set another rag out on
> the driveway and see what happens.
>
>
> dadiOH wrote:
>>
>> A rag or paper towel full of BLO *may* generate enough heat to ignite
>> because the oil is spread over a large area and therefore oxidizes
>> more rapidly.
>>
>> --
>>
>> dadiOH
In article <[email protected]>,
leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net says...
> Growing up, I had the fire danger of oily rags preached to me continuosly.
>
> When I got a house of my own, I put some oily rags out on the concrete patio
> to test this theory on a sunny day. In just a couple of hours, they were
> heating up pretty good. I became a safety fanatic about oily rags after
> that.
>
> I deal with them in two ways. One is to rinse in water and leave them flat
> on the concrete. The other thing I do is just to throw them into a metal
> garbage can and burn them.
Keeping them in a pretty airtight glass jar also works fine. They use up the
oxygen in there, then - no more heating effect after that. Tiny amounts of
oxygen seepage won't matter. Allows me reuse the rags for a while.
Friends of mine managed to burn down their newly built house by leaving
linseed-oily rags on the freshly polished floor and going to town to celebrate
& recuperate over a cup of coffee ....
-Peter
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
In article <[email protected]>, thecontact_
[email protected] says...
>
> weird........i had a rag that had about a 4" by 4" area soaked quite
> well....and it didn't even /feel/ warm.
>
> maybe i got the cheap stuff? the brand is called Crown.
>
If you leave it out flat, it will hardly heat up. Nor if it's totally soaked.
Think wadded up cloth (so the heat can build up inside) and after-use-moist (so
the oxygen can get at the surface of the cloth fibres) - lots of fibres = huge
surface area to oxyddize. If your cloth is in fact sopping wet, that would in
practical terms reduce the effective surface area for oxydisation to take
place, and you would get _less_ heating effect.
It's a chain reaction.
-Peter
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
"Dave W" wrote...
> Be careful with linseed oil; if you use it on a rag and crumple the rag in
> the trash, a fire is not only possible but likely. Heat is generated by
> oxidation of the oil as it dries. Heed the warning.
Got that right. Did a linseed oil finish on a tile kitchen floor for a
customer. Put the oily rags in a 5 gal bucket, put the bucket in the back
of my pickup and drove the 30 or so miles back to my shop. Time I got back,
smoke was coming out of the bucket pretty heavily. The rags weren't in
flames yet, but they were glowing embers like charcoal.
IIRC, a building project in cc Philly burned down due to oily rags left on
the site a few years back.
--
Timothy Juvenal
www.rude-tone.com/work.htm
"Hambone Slim" wrote
>
> "Dave W" wrote...
>> Be careful with linseed oil; if you use it on a rag and crumple the rag
>> in
>> the trash, a fire is not only possible but likely. Heat is generated by
>> oxidation of the oil as it dries. Heed the warning.
>
>
> Got that right. Did a linseed oil finish on a tile kitchen floor for a
> customer. Put the oily rags in a 5 gal bucket, put the bucket in the back
> of my pickup and drove the 30 or so miles back to my shop. Time I got
> back,
> smoke was coming out of the bucket pretty heavily. The rags weren't in
> flames yet, but they were glowing embers like charcoal.
>
> IIRC, a building project in cc Philly burned down due to oily rags left on
> the site a few years back.
>
>
Growing up, I had the fire danger of oily rags preached to me continuosly.
When I got a house of my own, I put some oily rags out on the concrete patio
to test this theory on a sunny day. In just a couple of hours, they were
heating up pretty good. I became a safety fanatic about oily rags after
that.
I deal with them in two ways. One is to rinse in water and leave them flat
on the concrete. The other thing I do is just to throw them into a metal
garbage can and burn them.
"sal bass" <[email protected]> wrote:
>i see. that makes a lot of sense. maybe i'll set another rag out on
>the driveway and see what happens.
If it is barely damp with BLO, what you should see in a few days to a
couple of weeks is that the rag has become stiff and no longer feels
oily, as the BLO has oxidized. Out on the driveway is a good place. I
let rags cure flat on a concrete floor or spread over a metal rod,
away from combustibles.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Be careful with linseed oil; if you use it on a rag and crumple the rag
>> in the trash, a fire is not only possible but likely. Heat is generated
>> by oxidation of the oil as it dries. Heed the warning.
>>
>> Dave
>
> Maybe I should take some camping?? :)
Just latter it all over your body... keeps you warm but the bugs stick to it
pretty bad. ;~)
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>If you *want* it to get hot, crumple it up and put it somewhere there isn't
>a lot of air circulating to dissipate the heat.
>
A word of caution about that: such an experiment could give a false
sense of security, since if the conditions aren't exactly right,
you'll never see the heating. You need enough oxygen for the oxidation
to start and sustain itself as it begins to heat up and accelerate,
without enough air for convection to carry away the heat and avoid the
acceleration of the process.
I haven't had luck striking that balance when I have tried, but have
heard enough to know that I don't want to stumble on that balance by
accident!
BTW, thinking of those two elements (adequate oxygen and inadequate
cooling airflow) explains the strategies for avoiding spontaneous
combustion: a sealed metal or glass container, or under water limits
the oxygen, while spreading out the rags to dry (oxidize) assures
enough airflow for cooling. I've never understood the rinsing before
spreading out to dry--not sure what that is supposed to accomplish.
If you use the sealed container approach so you can reuse the rags,
you still might want to use the spread-out-and-dry approach before
disposing of it; if your sealed glass jar gets thrown into a garbage
bag full of wood shavings and the jar gets broken while moving the
bag, you could have a bad situation on your hands.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.