I'm to be putting up some wide beadboard and had a couple of questions.
The design is identical to standard beadboard/wainscotting, but the
boards are to be much wider - 10 to 12".
http://store.yahoo.com/vintagewoodworks/beadboard.html shows what it
looks like.
Given the width, I'm very concerned about seasonal dimensional/moisture
content change, since I'm looking at the existing work with full 1/4"
gaps between them! There has also been cupping and, frankly, it looks
like shit. I don't want my work to look like shit. I've been thinking
of tracking down some quarter-sawn Eastern White Pine to minimize the
movement and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions. (It's
to be painted, BTW.)
I don't mind profiling it myself, but I've not got the jointer to
handle 12" boards. Could I just use MDF or FinnPly?
JP
****************************************
sorry charlie, back on my meds...
I did some a couple of years ago. It was Masonite (tempered hardboard).
Tounge and grove stuff. Builder's adhesive, and coaxed it into place
with a rubber mallet. Nail top and bottom where it would go under
molding. Pre-primed. Looks great. Pieces were about 9-10" wide, and 8'
long. I cut it into 4' pieces for a hallway to take care of little
hands that seem to want to hold the walls up. Took a remarkable amount
of paint to look good -- maybe 3 coats of semi-gloss latex enamel..
professorpaul wrote:
> I did some a couple of years ago. It was Masonite (tempered hardboard).
> Tounge and grove stuff. Builder's adhesive, and coaxed it into place
> with a rubber mallet. Nail top and bottom where it would go under
> molding. Pre-primed. Looks great. Pieces were about 9-10" wide, and 8'
> long. I cut it into 4' pieces for a hallway to take care of little
> hands that seem to want to hold the walls up. Took a remarkable amount
> of paint to look good -- maybe 3 coats of semi-gloss latex enamel.
Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm going to go with MDF for sure,
primarily because of the stability. I haven't looked for a source of
preprimed (and premilled) 10" MDF beadboard yet - is it commonly
available?
JP
***************************
I <heart> Insomniacs.
On 3 Feb 2006 18:47:23 -0800, "professorpaul" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I did some a couple of years ago. It was Masonite (tempered hardboard).
>Tounge and grove stuff. Builder's adhesive, and coaxed it into place
>with a rubber mallet. Nail top and bottom where it would go under
>molding.
Try putting the bottom ON the lower molding instead of behind it. This
eliminates the dust and dirt catching holes where the face profile
goes behind the lower molding. I've done several bathrooms and
kitchens this way with excellent results.
The pre-primed MDF beadboard can be glued right to drywall using PL
adhesive or the equivalent.
Barry
Jay Pique wrote:
> I'm to be putting up some wide beadboard and had a couple of questions.
> The design is identical to standard beadboard/wainscotting, but the
> boards are to be much wider - 10 to 12".
> http://store.yahoo.com/vintagewoodworks/beadboard.html shows what it
> looks like.
>
> Given the width, I'm very concerned about seasonal dimensional/moisture
> content change, since I'm looking at the existing work with full 1/4"
> gaps between them! There has also been cupping and, frankly, it looks
> like shit. I don't want my work to look like shit. I've been thinking
> of tracking down some quarter-sawn Eastern White Pine to minimize the
> movement and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions. (It's
> to be painted, BTW.)
>
> I don't mind profiling it myself, but I've not got the jointer to
> handle 12" boards. Could I just use MDF or FinnPly?
>
> JP
> ****************************************
> sorry charlie, back on my meds...
>
G'day Jay,
I would suggest that MDF is the way to go.
Here in AUST. we can purchase it it pre primed and ready to go.
regards
John