On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 13:40:07 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks, I was at HD earlier and was looking at the various Minwax's products and
I pick up their catalogs looking for someone there to talk to on my projects.
Thanks again.
>[email protected] They have been very helpful.
>
>Dave
>
>
>"Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
>> thinner and
>> I get congeal mixtures???
>>
>> How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>
On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 21:37:58 -0500, Geroge Barns <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>
>I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint thinner and
>I get congeal mixtures???
Did you get a can of water based poly? That is what the reaction
sounds like. I don't know if Minwax makes water base, but...
>
>How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
Mineral spirits should be the preferred option. I can't recall how
much you can thin it. The ratio is probably listed on the can. That
being said, I've thinned poly by 50% or more to get a mixture that
will soak deep into the wood. It works very well for hardening pine
desktops.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 20:47:34 -0700, Tim Douglass <[email protected]>
wrote:
That was what I thought!
>Mineral spirits should be the preferred option. I can't recall how
>much you can thin it. The ratio is probably listed on the can. That
>being said, I've thinned poly by 50% or more to get a mixture that
>will soak deep into the wood. It works very well for hardening pine
>desktops.
"Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
> thinner and
> I get congeal mixtures???
>
> How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3 minwax
poly, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 watco oil. If you are just going to thin to
a wipeable consistancy, only go about 30% on the mineral spirits.
Otherwise, you will need to use alot of coats to build up the material. Or
get smart and use Waterlox like I do <g>
SH
"Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is Waterlox and where can you buy them?
It is a tung oil based finish.
You can buy online at www.waterlox.com or www.amazon.com carries it too I
believe. I bought my last quart at Woodcraft.
SH
"Gary DeWitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> "Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> >
>> > I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
>> > thinner and
>> > I get congeal mixtures???
>> >
>> > How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
>>
>> What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3
>> minwax
>> poly, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 watco oil. If you are just going to thin
>> to
>> a wipeable consistancy, only go about 30% on the mineral spirits.
>> Otherwise, you will need to use alot of coats to build up the material.
>> Or
>> get smart and use Waterlox like I do <g>
>> SH
>
> What is it you like about Waterlox? I've heard good things about it,
> but would value your opinion.
It basically goes on like my home brew but is better. And I like the fact I
don't have to mess around mixing it. Another plus is the shelf life is
better than my home brew. It is very easy to use and rubs out excellent.
It is just a great product imho. Buy a quart and try it. You won't be
dissapointed. It comes in Gloss, Original (sheen is equivalant to
Semigloss), and Satin.
SH
Geroge Barns wrote:
> I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When
> I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals
> spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The
> next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!
Polyurethane is a reactive finish. It cures by reacting with the oxygen in the
air. Once it has reacted it can not be redissolved.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
[email protected] They have been very helpful.
Dave
"Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
> thinner and
> I get congeal mixtures???
>
> How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
>
>
>
"Gary DeWitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Dan White: I've read that finish manufacturers have reduced VOCs as
> ordered by the feds, and in order to comply, must label the can not to
> thin, since that would raise the VOCs and therefore, supposedly, air
> pollution.
Thanks, Gary. I have to get started on my own poly project. I'm starting
with the oil based Minwax though. I've got hard maple butcher block and am
going to try some linseed oil at first, followed by maybe 3 coats of thinned
gloss poly, finishing with a coat of maybe slightly thinned satin poly.
dwhite
"Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
> > thinner and
> > I get congeal mixtures???
> >
> > How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
>
> What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3 minwax
> poly, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 watco oil. If you are just going to thin to
> a wipeable consistancy, only go about 30% on the mineral spirits.
> Otherwise, you will need to use alot of coats to build up the material. Or
> get smart and use Waterlox like I do <g>
> SH
What is it you like about Waterlox? I've heard good things about it,
but would value your opinion.
Dan White: I've read that finish manufacturers have reduced VOCs as
ordered by the feds, and in order to comply, must label the can not to
thin, since that would raise the VOCs and therefore, supposedly, air
pollution.
"Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Gary DeWitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote in message
> > news:<[email protected]>...
> >> "Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
> >> > thinner and
> >> > I get congeal mixtures???
> >> >
> >> > How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
> >>
> >> What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3
> >> minwax
> >> poly, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 watco oil. If you are just going to thin
> >> to
> >> a wipeable consistancy, only go about 30% on the mineral spirits.
> >> Otherwise, you will need to use alot of coats to build up the material.
> >> Or
> >> get smart and use Waterlox like I do <g>
> >> SH
> >
> > What is it you like about Waterlox? I've heard good things about it,
> > but would value your opinion.
>
> It basically goes on like my home brew but is better. And I like the fact I
> don't have to mess around mixing it. Another plus is the shelf life is
> better than my home brew. It is very easy to use and rubs out excellent.
> It is just a great product imho. Buy a quart and try it. You won't be
> dissapointed. It comes in Gloss, Original (sheen is equivalant to
> Semigloss), and Satin.
> SH
Thanks, SH, I will.
I am assuming you have oil based polyurethane and not Minwax's water
based Polycrylic. You would have been alright if you simply removed the
thin film you found on the top of the liquid. The remaining solution is
acceptable but you should probably strain it.
The film that you found will not dissolve in mineral spirits. Once
polyurethane has cured, it will not redissolve in mineral spirits.
You can thin oil based polyurethane as much as you like. Thin it 20%
and it helps to eliminate bubbles and it gives the wet film more of a chance
to level. Thin it 50% and you have a wiping polyurethane. Thin it more and
it will start to look like an oil finish in that you will have a hard time
seeing a film.
You can shake the can as much as you like. As stated above, thin the
poly about 20% and tip off the surface of the wet film after you are done
brushing.
Good Luck.
"Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
thinner and
> I get congeal mixtures???
>
> How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
>
>
>
On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 03:58:32 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>> I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
>> thinner and I get congeal mixtures???
>>
>Most of the solids are already in a lump in the bottom of the can, until
>you stir them in carefully, without introducing air into the mix.
I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When
I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals
spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The
next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!
There are not instruction of thinning, but cleaning with either minerals spirit
or paint thinner. The instruction printed on the can "Do Not Shake" in bold
letter, "Stir slowly......" why?
Thanks
>
>Stir completely, for about 4 minutes, before starting to thin. And don't
>try to work with material that's too cold, either. Check the label, and
>maybe store the cans inside?
>
>Patriarch
Geroge Barns <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>
> I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
> thinner and I get congeal mixtures???
>
Most of the solids are already in a lump in the bottom of the can, until
you stir them in carefully, without introducing air into the mix.
Stir completely, for about 4 minutes, before starting to thin. And don't
try to work with material that's too cold, either. Check the label, and
maybe store the cans inside?
Patriarch
On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 21:37:58 -0500, Geroge Barns <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>
>I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint thinner and
>I get congeal mixtures???
>
>How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
>
>
follow the directions on the can?
On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 23:49:12 -0500, Geroge Barns <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 03:58:32 GMT, patriarch
><<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
snip
>
>I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When
>I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals
>spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The
>next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!
>
>There are not instruction of thinning, but cleaning with either minerals spirit
>or paint thinner. The instruction printed on the can "Do Not Shake" in bold
>letter, "Stir slowly......" why?
So as to not induce air bubbles in the poly. Shaking will produce
small air bubbles that will mess up your finish.
Thunder
>
You should be able to thin up to 30% (using mineral spirits)...but that's
it.
Still, I'd try it, test it, let it dry and see how it does.
Good luck
Rob
--
http://www.robswoodworking.com
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 21:37:58 -0500, Geroge Barns <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
thinner and
> >I get congeal mixtures???
> >
> >How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
> >
> >
>
>
> follow the directions on the can?
On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 09:31:55 -0700, "Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote:
I can only apply the Minwax polyurethane with a lint free cloth on the projects.
After it dries, I either use #150 to #240 sand papers or #000 steel wool to get
the finished I need. I may apply as many as 4 coats of polyurethane to get the
finished I need. I would be more than happy to apply the least possible coats.
It's extremely time consuming between each coat!
What is Waterlox and where can you buy them?
Thanks, a million :-)
>What used to be my favorite mix (until I started using Waterlox) 1/3 minwax
>poly, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 watco oil. If you are just going to thin to
>a wipeable consistancy, only go about 30% on the mineral spirits.
>Otherwise, you will need to use alot of coats to build up the material. Or
>get smart and use Waterlox like I do <g>
>SH
>
On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 02:34:42 GMT, "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote:
Have you try Minwax waterbase polyurethane, are they water resistance (ie, water
resistance, after it dry)?
I check HD today they have Minwax for outdoor, can you comment that too?
By the way what is VOCs?
>"Gary DeWitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Dan White: I've read that finish manufacturers have reduced VOCs as
>> ordered by the feds, and in order to comply, must label the can not to
>> thin, since that would raise the VOCs and therefore, supposedly, air
>> pollution.
>
>Thanks, Gary. I have to get started on my own poly project. I'm starting
>with the oil based Minwax though. I've got hard maple butcher block and am
>going to try some linseed oil at first, followed by maybe 3 coats of thinned
>gloss poly, finishing with a coat of maybe slightly thinned satin poly.
>
>dwhite
>
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/voc.html
Google is your friend. www.google.com
Geroge Barns <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 02:34:42 GMT, "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Have you try Minwax waterbase polyurethane, are they water resistance (ie, water
>resistance, after it dry)?
>
>I check HD today they have Minwax for outdoor, can you comment that too?
>By the way what is VOCs?
>
>>"Gary DeWitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> Dan White: I've read that finish manufacturers have reduced VOCs as
>>> ordered by the feds, and in order to comply, must label the can not to
>>> thin, since that would raise the VOCs and therefore, supposedly, air
>>> pollution.
>>
>>Thanks, Gary. I have to get started on my own poly project. I'm starting
>>with the oil based Minwax though. I've got hard maple butcher block and am
>>going to try some linseed oil at first, followed by maybe 3 coats of thinned
>>gloss poly, finishing with a coat of maybe slightly thinned satin poly.
>>
>>dwhite
>>
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 21:37:58 -0500, Geroge Barns <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >I tried to thin Minwax's Polyurethane with minerals spirit or paint
thinner and
> >I get congeal mixtures???
> >
> >How do you thin Minwax Polyurethane? Thanks
> >
> follow the directions on the can?
The can says not to thin it though.
dwhite
"Geroge Barns" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Have you try Minwax waterbase polyurethane, are they water resistance (ie,
water
> resistance, after it dry)?
Yes.
>
> I check HD today they have Minwax for outdoor, can you comment that too?
I use their Helmsman Spar Urethane and have had good results with it.
> By the way what is VOCs?
Volitile Organic Compounds. This is the stuff that evaporates and may
pollute the air.
On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 23:49:12 -0500, Geroge Barns <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I did not mixed the Polyurethane as I got it dirt cheap at an estate sales. When
>I opened the lid there is a thin harden layer, I add about 5% volume minerals
>spirit and cover it for 24 hrs. Hopping the minerals sprit will melt it. The
>next day I got congeal mixture, below the harden top layer!
May just be too old to be worth messing with. I incurred my
Father-In-Law's wrath when I cleaned out the old paints and stuff from
his shop. Some of those cans (half full) were more than 50 years old!
I actually had to send some of it off to the hazardous waste facility
because it was lead based.
Basically, if it is older than a year or so just chuck it and buy new.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
>
> Why not just use Minwax wiping polyurethane? You don't get the quick
> (thick)
> build that you get with the regular Minwax poly--which may or may not be
> an
> advantage--and it does wipe on nicely.
I was wondering the same thing as I read throught these. Is he thinning to
restore older product, wanting to spray or what? We have a lot of answers
but I don't fully understand the question.