How do you rout for a miter slot?

See if the pix link doesn't offer reasonable alternative, namely no
cutting, lots of benefits, including constant parallelism with fence.
______________________

http://www.patwarner.com/images/mitergage.jpg

No, I wouldn't cut the slot after laying the laminate. I would do the
slot, glue up the laminate, and then trim the laminate away from the
slot using a flush trim bit. You can get a low profile router bit
that is made for trimming away laminate from slots. This is what I did
with my router table.

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
> laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
> rout out the hole for the router plate.

sounds right.




>
> For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
> first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
> laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
> first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?

why do you want to go cutting slots in your router table anyway?




>
> Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
> risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter slot?

if you have to... :)

this seems to me to be the right approach. use a sharp carbide cutter,
either a straight router bit or dado blade in the table saw. if your
stuff is set up right, chipping shouldn't be a problem. this way, the
slot is clean (no lam glue overspray or drips to worry about) and the
depth is totally controllable (contact cement glueline can vary a few
thousandths, not to mention all of that measuring and adding... :> )


>
> I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
> install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
> and clean to the installed slot.

generally standard practice with laminates is to trim after assembly.
but whatever floats your boat....



>
> Any opinions? Thanks!

listen to pat warner.

>
> Jack

"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Yeah ... I've been debating whether or not to cut miter slots into the
> table. Using a sled provides better options and better control (so it
> seems to me anyway - I'm no expert).
>

Sled hell - any square block with a knob will do fine. Acts as an
anti-tearout backer, too.

You should see the Router Workshop boys work with this and fences adjusted
with hammer taps. Great work, easily done, no fuss.

"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
> I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
> install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
> and clean to the installed slot.

I'd probably rout the mitre slot first taking into account the thickness the
laminate I was installing to ensure a level fit. At the very least, if you
screw it up, you won't have wasted all the effort gluing the laminate and
then having to start over. :)

Time is money.... buy one!


"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
> laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
> rout out the hole for the router plate.
>
> For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
> first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
> laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
> first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?
>
> Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
> risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter
slot?
>
> I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
> install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
> and clean to the installed slot.
>
> Any opinions? Thanks!
>
> Jack
>
>
>

mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
> laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
> rout out the hole for the router plate.
>
> For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
> first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
> laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
> first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?
>
> Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
> risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter slot?
>
> I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
> install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
> and clean to the installed slot.
>
> Any opinions? Thanks!
>
> Jack
>
>
>
Number one; you aren't building a piano.

Number two; make a couple of passes with a router or run the top through
your TS IF you have a top notch dado blade. My SD508 leaves absolutely
NO VISIBLE chipping at all on any sheet goods. That's a $190 dado...

Applying the laminate after the miter slot is cut is just more work in
my opinion, but hey, it's your project. :)

Dave

Yeah ... I've been debating whether or not to cut miter slots into the
table. Using a sled provides better options and better control (so it
seems to me anyway - I'm no expert).

Jack

bridger wrote:

> mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
>
>>In building a router table, the instructions specify laying out the
>>laminate on top and bottom of the bonded surface and then having you
>>rout out the hole for the router plate.
>
>
> sounds right.
>
>
>
>
>
>>For the miter slot, which is better - (1) routing for the miter slot
>>first (taking into consideration the depth required for 'butting up' the
>>laminate against an installed miter slot, or (2) installing the laminate
>>first and routing out the groove for the miter slot?
>
>
> why do you want to go cutting slots in your router table anyway?
>
>
>
>
>
>>Option (2) seems to the be usual approach, but doesn't that increase the
>>risk of minute chipping (where the laminate will be meeting the miter slot?
>
>
> if you have to... :)
>
> this seems to me to be the right approach. use a sharp carbide cutter,
> either a straight router bit or dado blade in the table saw. if your
> stuff is set up right, chipping shouldn't be a problem. this way, the
> slot is clean (no lam glue overspray or drips to worry about) and the
> depth is totally controllable (contact cement glueline can vary a few
> thousandths, not to mention all of that measuring and adding... :> )
>
>
>
>>I was thinking that if I installed the miter slot first, then I could
>>install the laminate on both sides of the slot, having it butt up nice
>>and clean to the installed slot.
>
>
> generally standard practice with laminates is to trim after assembly.
> but whatever floats your boat....
>
>
>
>
>>Any opinions? Thanks!
>
>
> listen to pat warner.
>
>
>>Jack
>
>